Official Coffee Lake Refresh Thread/BIOS for ALL Clevo Laptops - RTX CARDS NOW SUPPORTED

Mmm

there is no Readme file here. And there is no P870DM-G.rom file.

Need to download from another link?

 

You need to flash P870DM.rom instead, do you have G-Sync compatibility right now?

 

Now my laptop is in a brick state.)
I bought a used laptop, and immediately reinstalled the system. I did not look in the driver, is there a parameter G-Sync.
Below is a link to the screen and photo, perhaps this is enough to understand whether the G-Sync is supported?
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JZTcMe74pZSdWtKY1kYnHN6-dAJ7tdEr?usp=sharing

 

The card is g-sync but it wouldn’t work. I know because I had a g-sync panel and g-sync card. Same configuration as you in the p870dmg. It still didn’t work due to some token error. If you have a 1080p panel it doesn’t matter then as your FPS will always be above 60fps. Just flash the p870dm rom.

 

I never had any cooling problems with the vapor chamber. It was much better than a system without a vapor chamber. The T-shaped single GPU heat sink never worked nearly as well for the GPU. You could try using a DM-G CPU heat sink so the GPU vapor chamber is not attached to it, but I doubt it will improve the CPU temps. The main trouble I had with CPU cooling was a result of extremely poor contact between the IHS and heat sink. I suspect this is what your problem is, not the vapor chamber. If you're using liquid metal and the heat sink is not making excellent contact with the IHS it is going to run hotter than it would using IC Diamond.

If you haven't experienced CPU cooling problems in the past due to poor contact, you've been lucky. You may have a defective or warped CPU heat sink. Many have had to replace their CPU heat sink. Remove the springs and c-clips, leave them off, and check to be sure the heat sink is flat. Many are arched away from the IHS and this will produce horrible results.

 

I’m sure the t shaped heatsink would work relatively well with an rtx 2080 due to the bigger die and less power consumption. The cpu is making direct contact because once the gpu starts heating up and reaches 85 to 90c the cpu gets pegged there and doesn’t get any cooler until the gpu load has been released. Otherwise the cpu is cool staying at 70 to 80c max load. There is a reason Clevo changed the design so both gpu and cpu were not combined and both remained cooler, especially the cpu. Gpu temps are fine though. The vapour chamber is amazing just transferring heat to the cpu not away from it.

 

OK I understood. Thanks you.

 

Try taking the screws out and removing the thermal pad so the vapor chamber isn't making sufficient contact to transfer heat to the CPU. If that doesn't improve the CPU temps, then you'll know the theory was a faulty assumption. The CPU normally gets much hotter than the GPU. If your GPU is getting that insanely hot with an SLI vapor chamber, then your vapor chamber must be junk. You should not be seeing temperatures anywhere near that high running a single GPU with an SLI vapor chamber. You should be seeing GPU load temps in the 60-70°C range with a properly functioning SLI vapor chamber with only one GPU. You're also going to get really sucky GPU performance since Pascal and Turing GPUs start massively dropping core clocks at 45-50°C and at 70°C you're not even going to see anything that resembles normal stock GPU performance because the core clocks are going to be too low.

 

There is no thermal pad in between, there is nothing! Is that the reason why the cpu is overheating?? Should I put thermal pads in there?

 

Well. This is kinda unexpeceted. According to @kfxsti "As it stands with a shim the T with a voltage curve set at 950mv flat temps haven't reached above 66-68 ° That's BFV and Warframe 2-3 hour runs.
T shape shimmed = 66-68°
T shape without Shim = +- 69-72° same scenario.
Dual VC shimmed = 66-68° (BUT it takes longer to get to these temps vs T-Shimmed)
Dual VC not shimmed =70-74° "

I would go for vc if it could lower gpu temps. But seems like there is no definitive answer.

 

That might help, but I am more concerned that your GPU is getting insanely hot. Sounds to me like maybe your vapor chamber has lost its gas charge. It is designed to handle double the TGP (two 1080s) and if one GPU is getting as hot as yours, something is definitely not working correctly. The vapor chamber (if working correctly and not causing a fit/contact problem due to warpage) should help the CPU run cooler by having an extra channel to shed heat. If the vapor chamber is not working correctly due to losing its gas charge, it is going to act as a massive heat trap and cause thermal problems.

 

I forgot to mention my gtx 1080 is tdp modded. So its actually consuming around 230w instead of 190w. That probably makes a 10c difference in heat. I will add a couple of thermal pads placed side by side to make better heat contact on the CPU side.

There is definitely something in the vapour chamber, it weighs a ton, surely when the liquid/gas escapes it would weigh significantly less right?

My GPU idles at 38c so the vapour chamber is definitely doing the job... It's either the fan curve because it seems the fans are loud but not insanely loud. Many people have said they get as loud as hoovers. Mine is definitely much quieter than that...

Could be dsanke's bios making a fan curve difference maybe running the fans at 80% instead of 100% idk it's just a speculation.

BTW forgot to mention all plastic, metal crap on the bottom cover has been removed for UNRESTRICTED airflow. That dropped the temps by 5c. The grates are still there though, no way I'm removing those....

 

I think the problem is your vapor chamber is defective. If the SLI vapor chamber is working correctly, it will effectively manage about 400W TGP (two 1080) and keep a single 1080 super cool, even if modded and overclocked. If it is defective (i.e. no longer holding its gas charge) then it's not going to work well at all. It cannot work well and all it will do is store up the heat. If it has lost its charge, then a single GPU "T" shaped heat sink might work better.

There have been numerous examples of defective Clevo heat sinks, including the vapor chambers. @bloodhawk had to replace several vapor chambers until he got one that worked right. When you have a good one, there is nothing more effective.

Edit: I think idling at 38° is too hot for a single GPU using an SLI vapor chamber. That's what you'd expect to see for idle temps with 1080 SLI if the vapor chamber is working correctly.

 

If this is the case I'd rather stick with the T shaped heatsink. I can't be bothered with the ******** anymore. These things should be QC'd properly beforehand.

I'll sell my dual gtx 1080's with the vapour chamber and buy a single rtx 2080 and put the t shaped heatsink on it. Job done and everybody is happy (no burning smell) because the temps will be good and my laptop won't be dying soon

 

@HashiramaS

Unplug laptop
Remove cmos battery
Remove battery
Let the laptop discharge for a while.

Then plug it all back in and try to boot.
Wait a very long time so your laptop can reset.

This might help. I am not sure this is the solution for you but it helped me once. I had it all unplugged for days and thought to give it a go again and it worked. I also tried a lot of FN + D or whatever keyboard combo’s you can find in the forum to reset the bios

 

Or just cut the pipes going over on Cpu as bro @bloodhawk did.

Either this or bad heatsink fits.

 

I am trying to come to some kind of deal with @clevo-extreme lets see what they can do for me

 

The vapour chamber is fine, turns out the gpu didn't have enough metal paste on it. Applied some more and now the gpu is running at 77c max which is a BIG difference, thanks for your help @Mr. Fox and @Papusan

EDIT: I'm still buying the t shaped heatsink as I need to carry this machine around. It's quite difficult when it weighs 8kg. The gpu heatsink being like 2kg on its own.

 

Guys,
I have the same km1 with vapot chamber, but it does not have cpu heatsink. I have the normal km1 cpu heatsink, can I upgrade to tm1 cpu heatsink? I have told I need to modify the laptop pretty much in order to be fit... thx

ps: on the screen bazel the screw covers are missing, where can I but 2 of those rubber cover stuffs? thx

 

Does anybody perhaps know where I can find the latest vBios for the 970m for the Clevo P751DM-G? The Google Drive only contains vBioses for the 10xx and 20xx series.

 

You would have to either replace the CPU back plate or shave down the screw stand-offs to use the newer TM1 heat sink. Otherwise, it will not work at all.

You can most likely purchase the display bezel screw covers from a Clevo reseller.

 

Not modded vBios:

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios...=GTX+970M&interface=&memType=&memSize=&since=

 

I agree on the idle temps as well. 30-32 is where my 1080s sat, and where my 2080 currently sits.
I can also agree on borked VC Heatsinks. But please remember everything I have is shimmed due to not being flat. And using the modded laptop cooler is what helped close the gap between my T and my VC.

 

Hi guys, I'm a newbie, I've been following this thread for a while and I have a few questions:

1. What is the difference between P7xxDMx.rom and P7xxDMx_RTX.rom? I have a P750DM2-G with an i5 6500 and GTX 1060, planning to upgrade to an i5 9400F and keep my GTX 1060, so which rom should I use?

2. My GOP version is exactly 0x30006 so should I update vbios or not? (VBIOS version: 86.06.3F.00.09)

3. My BIOS version is 1.06.11RNS1, EC version is 1.06.06 and ME version is 11.6.13.1212. Will this mod work without a Skypro? Because if I order a Skypro, it will take at least a month to arrive where I live.

Thank you for your time : D

 

One is for RTX cards, one is not.

Probably not needed, but someone else can confirm.

 

If you can't afford to hang without laptop for while than on your spot I would wait till skypro arrives.

No one can tell for sure that it will work without programmer for 100%. If you can risk - go for it

 

Thanks for the reply : ) , should I order a TL866II Plus or a Skypro?

 

You should go with Skypro. It might cost a bit more but it is reliable device .

 

Plus other users will be able to assist you more easily.

 

So, I might be tempted to try this again with the new instructions. I didn't see an EC package for this, for any of the BIOS. Is the EC update required for any BIOS update? I'm running an Origin EON-15X (6700K), which is a P7xxDM2G variant from what I can tell.

 

The mod worked on my P750DM2-G! G-sync did not work while the i5 6500 was installed but reappeared after I installed the i5 9400F(I have the 4K 60Hz panel btw). Thank all of you for this amazing mod and the advice!

Do I have to reinstall control center or nvidia drivers or anything now?
And I noticed that my single core performance dropped a lot even though performance with all cores increased, is there a way to fix this?

 

I flashed the wrong vBIOS and know my PC has a black screen. Does anybody know how to fix this? Do I have to reflash my vBios now with a programmer and/or does somebody have a link to a tutorial for this?

 

I guess programmer is the only solution...

 

If it is just a vBIOS issue that will allow you to blind dos boot, you might be able to blind flash it. I usually check with a DOS stick that if able to boot has a custom autoexec bat file that will write a success flag to a file and check it on another computer. If successful, create a custom autoexec file that will flash the vbios with a proper vbios rom.

If a bad vBIOS flash is preventing you from POSTing and even minimally booting, you will need to manually flash it with an SPI programmer.

 

Hi guys.
I bought a cheap programmer CH341a, and flashed the chip. It all worked! Thanks to everyone who gave advice.
Now looking for a mod. vbios for the video card. No one has? By the way, my gtx1070 does not have an additional power cable. How many watts does the MXM connector withstand?

 

First off thank you for answering my question. I realised it's just a vBIOS issue, but flashing a BIOS without a screen seems really hard to me (unless there's a clear tutorial somewhere). I went and bought myself a ch341a and 8 pin extension. Do you perhaps know if the following tutorial:
https://www.win-raid.com/t4287f16-G...H-A-SPI-Programmer-Flasher-With-Pictures.html
Will work for flashing vBIOS'es? Or would this only work for actual BIOS'es?. If so, can you perhaps link me to a place that tells me how I can flash vBIOS'es using a programmer? Thank you in advance!

 

If you bought the whole kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/heaven2017-C...rds=ch341a&qid=1560010724&s=industrial&sr=1-4

You should be good to go as it includes a 1.8v adapter required for vBIOS flashing.

If you didn't, you will need to get one like this (or similar):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KYK2DR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should be good to go after that. It is relatively straight forward, especially with the prewired harness and SOIC8 clip.

That guide should work, but I usually use Wingoneer hardware as their custom software is much more interactive in detecting the proper chip (or closest) and manually verifying the flash process visually.

 

200W is the spec. The connector's not the concern, the card and mainboard vrms are (also ac adapter capacity).

If its a MSI 1070 you don't need to worry about the card vrms. Only cooling.

 

Guys,
I have an evoc 870km1, which has prema bios + EC. I flashed the bios in order to have support 8086k, but I did not change the EC yet. Is it necessary? premas EC's usually better compared to stock... I will buy fancontrol so clevo center 2.0 is not really essential for me.
Other thing, 8086k+1080gtx could work with one 330W charger? or I have to use both?
thx

 

This is unofficial firmware in a combo likely never tested so if its booting you did not brick it at least

 

It is booting normally, I have tested with 9900k, worked perfectly Should I upgrade to official Ec?
Regarding the charger, will be one OK?

 

Not KM but I left Prema's EC on my DM3 and have had zero issues in 6+ months

 

You just need to keep the EC, dont mess with it as its not recoverable with a programmer and messing with it can bring several problems! Just don't flash the EC, keep it that way!
Yes the 8086k and 1080 will be sufficient for the 330w. I got a 8700k and a 1080 and don't use the total of the 330w, even in full load

 

in these kinds of custom flashing/hardware scenarios, just leave it as it is as long as it works! enjoy your upgrade!

Sent from my Xiaomi Mi Max 2 (Oxygen) using Tapatalk

 

Thx guys, I will leave the EC, and test the mod, and come back with some results just to compare!

 

Thank you, but if I flash the vBIOS using the method in the link, doesn't it replace the actual BIOS with the vBIOS file? I'm curious if the program realises it's the vBIOS that I want to flash.

 

Guys, tell me, in the management of the backlight, the backlight of the cover disappeared. The keyboard is there, but not the cover. What was the reason for this? And how can I fix it? P870DM-G

 

Did you plug the keyboard properly? With both tapes? The blue one and the other on the side? Most likely you didn't that's why you don't have backlight on keyboard. Lift the keyboard and check it

 

I have a backlight on the keyboard, and I can change its color. There is also a backlight on the cover, but I cannot change it. The program simply does not have a cover.

 

Are you using the version of hotkey specifically for P870DM-G?

Or did you flash the EC at some point