P157SM PSU Mod?

Hello guys!
So I have some issues with my current PSU. The performance is really dipping sometimes in mafia 3, mostly due to the fact that i have a GTX 880m paired with an Overclocked i4710 which makes my PSU struggle quite a bit.

Since there is oficially only a 180Watt PSU for my notebook I was wondering If i could make myself a 230Watt PSU? I heard people took a Dell 230W PSU + Clevo 180W PSU, cut the cables, soldered it back together and were able to run the notebook with 230W PSU. Is it that simple? Or do I actually have to do some mods in the actual PSU itself?

I'm a newb when it comes to electronics, the only thing I know how to do is to measure Volt and AMP and solder, that's literally it. So idk about stuff like where to find things or use some circuts for other things.

 

If you don't know what you're doing it's not a good idea to cut up mains appliances. If it's just changing the tip that's pretty simple but could still blow up your laptop if you get it wrong.

You can plug in any adapter that matches voltage and tip. I'd guess yours is 5.5mm/2.5mm but best to either find the spec somewhere or measure your existing with callipers

What are your "issues"? Does it cut out suddenly? Do you have a socket meter to know how much your laptop is drawing?

 

There are 230W 5.5*2.5mm connector 19V PSUs out there now.

 

You could, but you'd have a 410W adapter (after some additional effort). It'd be overkill, of course, and prone to failure if not done right.

Also, it'd work, but you'd have no control over the way the draw will be divided over these two adapters. For similar models it'd be less of a problem, but with such vastly different adapters one will have to fork over all the draw (having least resistance under load), whereas the second will be idling. The least-resistance unit will then be pulled to the max and self-preserve shutdown, immediately causing the high-resistance to having to take up the full load. After the cooldown and auto-reset the first unit would take back all the load from the second one, ad infinitum. So if the units are not more-or-less the same (or have a high A -> high R effect) then the result will be worse than either single PSU alone. And even if they are pretty well-matched then it'd still not see 200% of the output of the original units because it'd still have that same uneven load balance, except kicking in at higher outputs.

A way around this would be to compensate for the low-resistance unit by adding a resistor of sorts, which'd bring its total resistance under load on par to that of the high-resistance unit. Tricky bit being to measure the required value. You'd have both plugged in the socket via a kill-a-watt, but varying the resistance needs a rheostat of serious power and these are a tad costly.

Hmm ... a cheap, hard-core alternative; skimp on the thickness of the AC wire on the low-R unit, leaving the extra resistance up to the self-heating property of the copper wire. Test under load -> uneven -> cut a few more threads -> test, etc. There's an optimal value somewhere where you could pretty much max out both adapters and it wouldn't cost a penny.

Err ... sooo ... if you were cash-strapped, had an extra adapter, can design a working balancing circuit and you have decent soldering skills then sure. If not all of these apply then simply get a nice, used Dell PA-9E 240W and a Dell -> Clevo tip adapter (or the 230W PnP model mentioned by Meaker). The used Dell should be under $40 and you'd have a high-quality adapter plus the old 180W for spare, travel or to leave at some other place you frequent. It's also some 10% smaller than the old 180W, while having 1/3th more energy output (Clevo's adapters having a rather poor power:volume ratio). Mind to get a straight, simple plug adapter and not one with a small cable inbetween male and female side; the wire inside the cable is often not rated for these kinds of power, being designed for non-DTR systems.

 

@t456:
That's exacly the information I needed!

No need to fiddle around with the modding part then. Phew.....thanks alot m8.

 

He meant swap the cables, not solder the outputs together (a REALLY bad idea).

 

Yeah, i meant swapping cables. It would basicially be the same as use the adapter. But since there is an adapter out there, which I didn't know I'd settle for that one. Makes me save the work

 

It also does not break any of the safety regulations printed on the casing either