P75XDM2/P75XXTM cooling!

Play at your own risk! This is just what I have found so far:

TL;DR Notes:

• RTX heatsink WILL NOT work with 10XX series GPUs

Most effective:

• Rearrange/replace GPU thermal pads for better contact
• 17 blade fans
• Good thermal paste

Can help:

• CPU delid + Liquid metal between IHS and die
• BartX 4.3mm IHS
• GPU Liquid Metal

Questionable:

• P775X separate GPU/GPU heatsinks, potentially poor contact on CPU/GPU die

Hey everyone,

I just got myself a P750DM2 and was wondering what kind of cooling mods people have been doing. Here is a little of what I have been doing.

First was delidding the 7700k adding some liquid metal and doing the paperclip/toothpick mod: (for me there was no real difference with the paperclip/toothpick mod, but the delid + LM did make a difference)



First a comparison between the stock P750DM2 heatsink and the P750TM heat sink that supports the RTX graphics cards. I was curious as to the differences since it should just be easily replaceable. I was able to pick it up for ~$110 shipped so it wasn't expensive at all.

Stock P750DM2 P/N: 6-31-P750D3-302
P75XTM RTX GPU P/N: 6-31-P75F3-204

The one on the left is the RTX heatsink.




What kind of differences do you guys see? Any benefits?

Now the fun part. Some people like the unified heat sink, some don't. I understand in theory they can help each other when one is loaded more than the other, but what if you want to run like a 8700k + or 9700k+ with a 1080+ and both create a lot of heat, it might be easier to tune the GPU/CPU for a separate heatsinks. When I got my 1080GTX from MrMogwai he included the CPU and GPU heatsink from a P775TM1!! These are the separate heatsinks for CPU GPU.

P775TM1
CPU P/N: 6-31-P77FN-101
GPU P/N: 6-31-P77FN-201

Comparison:



The CPU heatsink had to be bent to fit, the P750DM2 comes stock with this bend. The GPU heatsink is also a little longer.



In this view you can see the crink/bend on the CPU side to fit, you also see much larger the surface area is of the fins area to dissipate heat! The heatsink pipes are also thicker!

Of course this means I had to cut the plastic bits out of the back panel. I only needed to cut the backing panel, not the chassis itself, so if I wanted to go back to the normal heatsink and have it look clean again it is easy to just buy that back panel we remove to access the CPU/GPU.

P775TM1 Heatsinks installed:



How it sticks out - I want to clean it up to be nicer at a later date. It works well for now.






Now I just need to be careful if I move it to not dent the fins and create blockage in the airflow. It still is mobile though and since it is the rear of the laptop I don't ever see it anyways.

Curious what you all think and if anyone is doing other things to help keep temps in check.

The next thing I want to do is switch out the fans.

Apparently there are 17 bladed fans vs normally 14 blade fans? Helps increase airflow that way too?

 

Thermal pad adjustment and the paperclip mod are popular.

 

@anassa Ive got a P750DM2-G currently running a gtx1080, do you know if you can use the P75XTM 6-31-P75F3-204 heatsink with the 1080?

 

Just use the GTX 1080 heatsink for the P750TM: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

Due to bad experiences in the past, I don't shop on Aliexpress or other sites like it. And I have not been able to find one in the EU so far, but the RTX version is available. That's why I was asking if it would work and also I'm considering upgrading to a RTX card at some point.

 

For smaller purchases it's less risky.

 

I've bought a lot of parts from AliExpress and haven't had any issues, only the slow shipping which takes about two weeks to me in the US. The RTX heatsink should work on Pascal cards, but you need to adjust the thermal pads since the thicknesses and placements are different. Or you can use something like K5 Pro instead. But the RTX heatsink looks inferior since it has less copper and was designed for a lower TDP (Clevo 1080 is 190W, while 2080 is 150W). Also, there are no spring arms, so you can't do the paperclip mod on the GPU with the RTX heatsink.

 

I don't think so. The holes for the heatsink in the RTX cards are in a different location.

 

They’re in the same location. I superimposed the RTX board onto the GTX board and the holes match up exactly.

 

So long as it's standard Vs standard and new clevo Vs clevo core positions are the same.

 

So.... I bought the RTX heatsink for nothing... I could have used the original one that came with the 1070? :|
If it wasn't by laziness on opening the laptop again, I would check it.

 

Sorry for the late response,

I have not checked, as I am using the P775TM1 separate heatsinks.

Do you need me to try the RTX heatsink on the 1080?

I can also check where I got the heatsinks, I know it was on ebay and it worked fine. I can double check to find the seller name and if he still is selling.

 

The RTX ones are a little better IIRC.

 

Can you find the seller please? Was it upgradeyourlaptop? If it was that's Eurocom selling stuff there. Just wanted to confirm

 

It was "tina201782" on ebay I think that seller only has one clevo/sager etc item now. So it might be a hit and miss kind of thing. Or maybe ask? The price was good, shipping was faster than expected - especially with COVID - and the packaging was really well done. They also took my offer instead of just having only a "Buy it Now" possibility. Maybe I got lucky, but definitely no complaints on my side.

And ya, I am aware of "upgradeyourlaptop" I usually skip them because the prices tend to be way to high.

 

Well just looking at the pictures on the first post it seems the biggest difference is that one of the GPU heatsinks connects to the CPU side to help? (for the non-RTX) And the RTX GPU heatsink keeps all three heatsinks dedicated to itself.

Someday I will get a chance to actually do some testing... someday... when life settles down a bit more

 

The GTX 1080 heatsink for the P750 actually looks like this:



The one you have in the OP from the P75xDM2 is for the GTX 1060/1070.

 

The RTX one in the p750 series is three chunky heatpipes each for GPU and CPU and one going between them.

 

More like 3.5 heatpipes for the CPU and 2.5 for the GPU since the third GPU heatpipe is shared. The RTX heatsink was designed for a lower TDP GPU and higher TDP 9th gen CPU, so it sacrifices some GPU temps for lower CPU temps.

 

Thanks a lot buddy

 

Looks like this right?

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000584804041.html

 

That’s the GTX 1080 heatsink.

 

Lol that one may be better if you can fit it then.

 

And I’m hoping I can use it with a Clevo 3080M next year as well. Cyberpunk 2077 has given my 1080 a rude awakening.

 

Badly optimized game. Don't blame the hardware. The game is badly optimized af

 

No I don’t think it’s that. It’s far and away the best looking game ever made IMO, basically the new Crysis. A true next-gen game. Even at medium-high settings, with FidelityFX CAS dynamic resolution scaling set between 83% (900p) and 100% (1080p) for a mostly stable 60 FPS, it’s more detailed than any other game I’ve played at ultra.

And maxed out with ray tracing, it simply looks phenomenal. Watching this video at 4K 60 FPS makes me want to upgrade so badly lol.

 

Yeah but my wallet is crying

 

That's what the game is doing to your GPU

 

Looks like other than - the top RAM cover/cooling plate / area for top screw - the 1080 and RTX cooling pipe setup is exactly the same.

BTW - I wasn't even sure if the 1080 was officially supported on the P750? Or it wasn't initially before some boutique companies sold it that way because they could? I forgot what it was.

The GPU has dedicated 3 heatpipes and the CPU dedicated 3 heatpipes if you look again - there is an extra heatpipe that is not an extension of any of the three from each side that connects both sides.

That makes me wonder how it compares to the P775TM1 that I am using then. Since on the P775TM1 both also have three heatpipes, but are just separate. TheP775TM1 still seems to have a larger surface area for the copper fins so it should still cool better?

What settings are you using? What frequency for the GPU and voltage are you running?

I currently have my:
- 8086k @4.7ish undervolted all core
- 1080 @ 1833Mhz ~ish at .975v
(Very stable - no crashes with playing for hours)

Running Cyberpunk 2077 at a mostly medium settings 1080p native - no dynamic resolution and I am getting around mid 40s to 70s FPS depending on what is happening. It looks pretty amazing even on medium settings and the G-sync panel helps.

The GPU has a heavy load though and if I don't do FN+1 for full fans the 1080 will get up to 90C - with fans on full blast it is around 60~70C with ambient temps in around 15C - it is cooler outside now, being winter and all, so that really helps.

I highly doubt the 3080 will work with our thermal limitations considering the 1080 is already pushing the limit of thermal capability of the P750 - and I don't know what else we can do to increase that thermal limit.

 

You are correct. The P750 GTX 1080 and RTX heatsinks have the same heatpipe configuration. I got it mixed up with the P775, which on its RTX heatsink has a shared 3rd heatpipe that runs to the GPU fin stack.

The GTX 1080 wasn’t officially supported on the P750 before the -TM Coffee Lake generation. Technically it could work, but it would have thermal throttled to no tomorrow on the 2-pipe heatsink in the P750DM2. Been there, done that lol.

The P775 has more fin area than the P750, so I would expect it to cool slightly better as you said.

With Digital Foundry optimized settings, I get an average of just over 60 FPS at 1080p with a +170/+400 OC on the GTX 1080. It drops to the low 50's when driving, and over 70 indoors. Temps sit at around 83C on auto fans, or 78C with max fans. My i7-8086K is running at 4.7GHz core/4GHz cache with a -115mV undervolt on core/cache. RAM is 3100MHz CL15 with custom timings. Ambient temp is 18C.

If I undervolt the GPU to 1873MHz @ .913V, it's cool and quiet, holding around 74C on auto fans. Performance is a few frames lower.

Well, mobile is definitely not getting the desktop GA102-based 3080 chip. It's most likely the mobile 3070/3080 will be GA104-based, which should be doable inside a thermally optimized P750 unit at a TDP of up to 200W, given that it can handle our 190W 1080, which is a smaller die too (higher heat density).

 

You can make the chip fit your power target.

 

Looks like we have the same setup!

You are getting better of everything though, I also used the Digital Foundry optimized settings and have roughly the same fps as you.

My setup is:
GPU: 1830~1835Mhz @ .912V +450 on VRAM
CPU: All core @ 4.6Ghz -0.1201V on Core and -0.1357V on Cache
RAM - just whatever the XTU auto settings are

If I run auto fans and play the GPU and CPU will get up to the 90s, if I do max fans it will vary from ~65 to ~75 depending on ambient. But without full fans the CPU/GPU just get too hot.

From what I have read the Pascal mobile GPUs seemed closest to the desktop variants, like my 1080 runs the same as a desktop 1080 @ 1830MHz, but it seems like the Ampere series are going to opposite way, and there might be SUPER variants again. I am thankful for the pixel density of 15" +1080p and Gsync, it looks good and works well so far.

If it fits (aka MXM?), cooler works, and is accepted by the bios, a 3080 (12GB or more than 8GB VRAM) would be nice, but as we all know, sure we can try to get it to fit our power target, but we will always push that as far as possible! Multiple profiles for winter, summer, when A/C is on, etc hahaha. It is kind of nice though to have something that will just run cool and you can work on overclocking to the max without worrying too much about temps or feeling like you are crippling your GPU to allow it to run. Anyways, I look forward to what the 30XX series mobility will bring! (Personally I still wish AMD would bring something relevant to the table, like the 7970m back in the day)

2021 will be interesting for mobility cards.

 

^^ just realized I had already mentioned my specs previously - but it is a bit more accurate as I checked the specs again.

Maybe I need to re-paste and check contact, because those temps seem high. Maybe even check contact and pad placement.

 

I did a lot of work on my thermals, including using a taller IHS, replacing thermal pads with K5 Pro, liquid metal on all surfaces, and getting the 17-blade fans from the 9th gen refresh (higher static pressure and less annoying pitch than original 13-blade fans).

I'm using the built-in dynamic resolution scaler to achieve a locked 60 FPS in Cyberpunk now. I set Max Frame Rate in Nvidia Control Panel to 60 FPS and in-game like this:



Combined with the AMD CAS sharpening, when the resolution drops I barely even notice it. It's still generally between 900p and 1080p (verified by comparing with static resolution scale set to 85% or 900p) when it drops, and the slightly softer image is actually a little easier on the eyes because the SSR in this game makes reflective surfaces really grainy.

Another benefit to using the 60 FPS cap with an undervolted GPU is that the CPU and GPU are below 70C the whole time and the fans barely spin up.

 

I also did a little work as you saw from the first post for thermals lol - delid and LM for 8086k, adjusting thermal pads and paperclip mod + P775 heatsinks, but I am interested in the 17 blade fan, where did you get it from? Did you notice a difference?

I feel hopeful with the potential mobility 3080 specs:
https://wccftech.com/nvidia-geforce...ifications-benchmark-leak-on-par-rtx-2080-ti/
If it is true: GA104, 6144 Cores (more than desktop 3070), 16 GB Memory, 1700Mhz, 150w? Not bad! Sure it isn't a real 3080, but it is stronger than a 3070, so that isn't bad for a 15" laptop. Especially if it really is only 150w, then I won't have to worry about heat as much and can have fun with it. Now the price....

Good idea on the fps cap and dynamic resolution scaler . . even though, I tend to really dislike them. Maybe if I just set 85 - 100? With 60FPS cap? That could be helpful.

I think I am going to re-paste and recheck pads this week and first see how that works.

 

Got the fans from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

The biggest difference I noticed is that they sound much less annoying than the original fans under load. The pitch is more pleasant to my ears.

That benchmark is OpenCL, which is a compute benchmark that uses very little power on the GPU. That's why the 80W 3080 Max-Q in that Zephyrus is able to boost high and score like a 2080 Ti / 3070. In actual gaming/benchmark 3D graphics loads it'll perform far worse due to being extremely power limited and having super low boost clocks. At 150W I'd expect the 3080M to be like the desktop 3060 Ti, and at 200W (if there is one) to be like the 3070.

Setting a minimum bound of 85% works too, and should be the same, since I think I have yet to notice the dynamic resolution scaler drop below 900p. I used 65% (720p) just in case there are more demanding sections later in the game.

 

980 desktop on mobile was pretty close I guess too. But TDPs were different.

 

Ah k, you just used that link, I was hoping for something within U.S. Shipping will take a while, oh well!

I figure the core count would be correct and more than the desktop 3070, so we can figure out our own Mhz that will work with our cooling limitations. The one advantage mobile parts seem to have had over their desktop counterparts has been more VRAM, like the 980m had 8GB while the desktop 980 only had 4GB, and now it seems like we will have 16GB, so that is a plus! If I can get the 3080 mobile at 1600Mhz ish, I don't think that would be bad at all! It would at least be a worthwhile upgrade from the 1080.

Ah, that is correct! I forgot about the 980. Good point!

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

So I did some power draw testing for the 1080 gtx, using the CMD prompt:

nvidia-smi.exe -i 0 --loop-ms=1000 --format=csv,noheader --query-gpu=power.draw

Not exactly sure where it pulls the numbers and how accurate it is, but it is still helpful!

First is 1830Mhz @ 0.925V

• TimeSpy Graphics Test 1: 145 ~152Watt

• TimeSpy Graphics Test 2: 150 ~ 175Watt

• Cyberpunk 2077 (in the city just standing): 120~133Watt

This voltage requires me to use full fans for the voltage to not get to 90 or so degrees.

Second was 1502Mhz @ 0.762V

• TimeSpy Graphics Test 1: 98~104Watt

• TimeSpy Graphics Test 2: 104~112Watt

• Didn't do Cyberpunk 2077

This voltage requires me to just use the auto fans and I don't have to worry about it.


I re-pasted and was going to try the RTX heatsink, but after looking at the difference between the P775 fin size and the RTX fin size, it seemed pointless to try the RTX heatsink. Looking at
yrekabakery temps with the RTX heatsink, it kind of sucks that the obviously larger P775 heatsinks don't seem to make that much of a difference. Maybe I should just throw on the RTX heatsink for giggles and see if it magical.

Maybe the 17 blade fan will make the difference? Kind of sucks that it looks like the heatsink setup has a cap around 120ish or so Watt before full fans are needed - but then it holds steady up till 150ish Watt before the cooling system can't keep up and it just continues to get hotter.

 

Quite a big difference from the thermals I'm getting on my 1080. Like I said before, I'm topping out at about 78C on max fans with a +170/+400 OC. These are temps and clocks near the end of a Time Spy stress test (20 minutes long):



It varies between 1950MHz and 2000MHz on the core as it's bouncing off the power limit, but it does stay at 190W the entire time.

Most important thing is making sure that the GPU core makes good contact with the heatsink. When I pressed the MXM module to the heatsink outside of the laptop while shining a flashlight, there was a .5-1mm gap between the heatsink and die caused by too-thick stock thermal pads. That gap shrinks if you use the paper clip mod, but it's still not ideal. When I took the thermal pads off and tested it again, there was no gap whatsoever and the core was making perfect contact with the heatsink. That's why I decided not to bother with thermal pads altogether and switched to K5 Pro, which conforms to any size gap ≤3mm and doesn't cause fitment issues since it is highly compressible, being basically a gummy paste. The perfect core contact also allowed me to get the full benefit of using liquid metal on the GPU, lowering temps further.

One thing to note, if you do go this route of bringing the heatsink and core closer together, don't do the paper clip mod because the contact is already perfect without it. Otherwise, the increased pressure could crack the die.

I don't think it's worth switching to the RTX unified heatsink. The most important thing is GPU core contact as stated above, and all the heatsinks are equally affected by this problem with the stock thermal pads. You've already modified your chassis to accommodate the P775 heatsinks, so might as well stick with them and fix the contact instead. But if you do use the RTX heatsink, make sure you use spring-loaded screws for the GPU, as that heatsink doesn't use retention arms on the GPU, otherwise the heatsink pressure won't be adequate.

 

When clocking there can be variations inbetween cards too.

 

So I redid my pads and repasted, it did look like the contact after my last re-paste wasn't good, I also took the time to pull it out and without any pads or thermal past screw the heatsink to the GPU and see if there were any gaps, it seems that the heatsink contact to the GPU die is good. I have Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 1mm ones that I was using but also noticed the VRAM chips don't get full contact with the 1mm pads, they need to be thicker.

After that I ran Cyberpunk 2077 @ ~1800Mhz again and it took longer than before to warm up, but with autofans still hit 87C after roughly 7min. CPU @ 4.3Ghz wasn't an issue, but when it is at 4.6Ghz all core with the undervolt it will hit low 80s.

I also noticed that if I did frame cap at 60 the game wasn't as smooth as if I just put the frame cap at 80 or so - and the panel is only 60hz.

I'm going to have to try the combination of K5 Pro & 17 fin fans - no LM for the GPU for me as I move the laptop around too much, for the delided CPU it is under the IHS so that is fine. But swapping out for one of those copper IHS I see might be worth a try? My fans don't have the the annoying high pitch you mentioned previously, but I am definitely looking for the performance.

I can't believe you can manage 78C with 190W ~ 1950Mhz to 2000Mhz for the 20min Time Spy stress test, with the RTX heatsink, that is super impressive!

Especially considering with my larger heatsink I can only manage around ~130W @ ~1800Mhz for 7min on auto before it hits 87!

It would be nice to be able to run 190W with full fans and keep it under 80C - that would be a real achievement!

BTW I totally forgot that Afterburner can pull the Watt also . . . but I was just playing with it and can only find CPU Power - for Watt, not the GPU, what option did you use to get that?

My GPU also currently can't handle a +170 core offset, I have been playing with the curve itself.

 

Ya that true, but still, with the similar chassis, cooling solution, fans, thermal pads, die contact, power limits, thermal compound etc it should be similar, especially as these are both clevo 1080 cards - if we are talking about desktop cards with the different manufactures, cooling setups, vbios etc you would expect more variance.

Also at this point the main difference isn't the comparison between frequency, but power/voltage use and the resulting temps, regardless of frequency. So if I was able to pull ~190W and run full fans with the 20min Time Spy test and also get around 78C max but can only get 1900Mhz that is fine.

 

My goal would be - to be able to pull 190W and keep it under 80C with full fans.

Then I would be happy with the cooling setup and also be fine with future upgrades and can tinker for frequency at different voltages within that.

 

It can still be surprisingly different.

 

Not worth it. Most aftermarket IHSes are the same height as the stock IHS, which would be pointless. The CPU heatsink has a .5-1mm gap with normal height IHSes, even with thermal pads removed, and the toothpick mod doesn't help much. If you source a taller IHS like I did (BartX Clevo IHS is 4.3mm, which is 1mm taller than stock), it makes perfect contact with the heatsink.

If anything, the 17-blade fans are slightly higher pitched, they just sound less like a leaf blower under load.

Biggest thing with the GPU is getting rid of thermal pads. Before using K5 Pro, I tried several attempts to get the thermal pad thicknesses right, but could never find a combination that allowed the core to get good contact.

Afterburner doesn't have it. I'm using the HWiNFO plugin for that.

 

Did you test the new 17 bladed fans vs the 13 bladed fans at max rpm to see if they provide better cooling? If so, by how much?

 

I didn’t test them directly. I had to remove the heatsink to switch out one of the fans, so I also took the opportunity to swap my Rockit IHS for the BartX, changed GPU thermal pads to K5 Pro, and reapplied liquid metal on all surfaces.

 

The silver shining IHS was the first one to get a properly tall one, it does help.

 

I just checked BartX with the 4.3mm IHS, but it seems they are out of stock so I asked them when it was coming back in.

Well I ordered the 17 blade fans! Found it on Ebay, so went with that, shipping will still take till mid Feb, so it will be a bit of wait till I get to see the difference. I also got some K5 Pro on the way to see what kind of difference that makes.

Let's see what will happen to my temps! I hope it works well!

 

These fans might fit, more thicc and powerful if anyone is feeling adventurous.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-16l13-eurocom-tornado-f5-fan-modifications.810712/