P75XDM2/P75XXTM cooling!

Full load in what workload, and what package power?

 

Running ffmpeg on a conversion from H.264 to H.265, package power was 72 W.

 

Well I got it! It just arrive a couple days ago. I got the BartX 4.3mm IHS. It definitely took a long time, had to wait for them to restock and then ship. But! I am excited. I am hoping that this weekend I will get a chance to swap it on and see what kind of results I get.

 

Nice, i am glad, tell us how it is.

I still didnt changed mine, didnt have time. I just did the LM on it and put it in a box on the heater for the past week to bake it. Maybe ill do it this weekend but still have some other stuff to do .

 

That's life sometimes but then you get that time to sit down with it and it's satisfying

 

Update:

First: RTX heatsink WILL NOT work for 10XX series GPUs! (1080 for sure, assume 1070 and 1060 too).

If you look at the image below you will see the blue circles show that on the RTX GPU heatsink it is raised for the memory cooling, while on the GTX GPU heatsink it is flat! This means you won't get good,or any, contact on the GPU die from the heatsink.



Here is how it looks if you try:

• Yellow A shows the thermal paste isn't even spread out, no real contact!
• Blue B shows where there is direct contact between the raised heatsink portion that is the primary cause of poor contact.
• Green C shows all the raised portions that lift the heatsink away from the GPU die.

 

Now for some more results, ALL was done with autofans!

My Baseline:

• Intel IHS, delidded w/ Liquid metal
• P77X separate CPU/GPU heatsinks
• Thermal grizzly thermal paste on IHS and GPU
• 17 blade fans

CPU (8086k) @ 4.7Ghz all core ( -0.1201 core/ -0.1201 cache undervolt)

• Cinebench R15 by end @ 78°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 256mb by end @ 79°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 1024mb by 79% @ 95°C (I stopped it, too high temps for me!)

Combo 1 (Stock/Normal 1060/1070 GPU heatsink):

• BartX 4.3mm IHS
• Liquid metal between IHS and CPU die
• Thermal grizzly thermal paste on IHS and GPU
  
• Stock 10XX series GPU one-piece heatsink (GPU and CPU)
• Rearranged GPU thermal pads to be only on memory chips
• Rest of GPU VRM has K5-Pro on it, no thermal pads.
• 17 blade fans

CPU (8086k) @ 4.7Ghz all core ( -0.1201 core/ -0.1201 cache undervolt):

• Cinebench R15 by end 74°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 256mb by end @ 73°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 1024mb by end @ 81°C

At first I was like WOW! the temps dropped a LOT from switching to the one piece heatsink and BartX IHS! Especially being able to do the full 1024mb TS benchmark at only 81°C, and I think at 4.7Ghz it was pulling somewhere around 100 - 110W? (I forgot to write down how much power it was pulling) So I did some temps with running TimeSpy.

TimeSpy (1080 GTX, autofans!):

• 0.762V @ ~1500Mhz +450Mem, highest temp was = 62°C
• 0.843V @ ~1680Mhz +450Mem, highest temp was = 69°C
• 0.912V @ ~1820Mhz +450Mem, highest temp was = 76°C (CPU hit > 86°C)
  
• Did 0.912V @ ~1820Mhz +450Mem 20min Stress Test, highest temp was 87°C
• 1.012V @ ~1960Mhz +450Mem, highest temp was = 83°C (CPU hit > 89°C)

At first glance it seemed decent, except that I noticed during the CPU test portion the CPU temps were spiking pretty high as you can see. Then I put on Cyberpunk 2077 while just standing in the city (all NPCs around = CPU workload) to just see what happens if both CPU and GPU have stress. The temps just kept going up with both CPU (@4.7) and GPU(@1800Mhz) heading towards high 80 degrees way too fast.

What was happening was that if it was only CPU load or only GPU load, the shared heatsink was actually really efficient at dissipating heat and I had lower temps then ever before. But the with a load on both CPU and GPU the heatsink cannot handle both 8086k and 1080 at the same, even with undervolting both of them.

Afterwards I tried different combo's - Old setup + BartX IHS, or Old setup + Bart IHS and liquid silver on GPU, or Old setup + rearranged gpu thermal pads, stock IHS and no liquid metal, etc etc. At this point I couldn't even figure out a setup again that could do 4.4Ghz all core 8086k undervolted and not push high 80s.

I used up all my thermal paste and liquid metal and ended up with this setup:

Combo 2 (RTX CPU heatsink, P775 GPU heatsink):

• BartX 4.3mm IHS
• Liquid metal between IHS and CPU die
• Thermal grizzly thermal paste on IHS
  
• RTX CPU heatsink (took it apart)
  
• P775 GPU heatsink (still sticks out the rear)
  
• Liquid metal on GPU
• Rearranged GPU thermal pads to be only on memory chips
  
• Rest of GPU VRM has K5-Pro on it, no thermal pads.
• 17 blade fans

CPU (8086k) @ 4.4Ghz all core ( -0.125 core/ -0.135 cache undervolt):

• Cinebench R15, by the end @ 71°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 256mb by end @ 71°C
• Throttle Stop Benchmark 1024mb by end @ 81°C

TimeSpy (1080 GTX, autofans!):

• 0.912V @ ~1820Mhz by the end 85°C

CyberPunk2077 after 5min in city

• GPU @ 0.912V @ ~1820Mhz = 86°C
• CPU @ 4.4Ghz all core = 83°C

Temps kept climbing mostly for GPU while CPU was now more stable, so I dropped the GPU down to 0.843V @ ~1680Mhz +450Mem and it started to lower to 80°C.

So at least with this setup I can run the stock 8086k @ 4.4Ghz all core undervolted, and 1080 GTX GPU @ 0.843V @ ~1680Mhz +450 Mem.

So ya. Nothing great, and still trying to find a combo that will work for 4.7Ghz all core or more, and around the 1.0V on GPU core. But no combination so far that I tried for this little guy works yet.

 

What heatsink? RTX one? Do you also have RTX card?

What specs for the 9700k? Undervolted? Stock? 72W pull doesn't seem like much.

 

Interesting. Why the detached RTX heatsink on the CPU, instead of the P775TM CPU heatsink that has thicker heatpipes and finstack?

Also, the VRAM thermal pads around the GPU core are most responsible for preventing good contact with the heatsink, so those are the ones that benefit most from K5 Pro. You should be getting much lower GPU temps that that with LM if core contact is good.

 

I wanted to see if it would create a better contact surface. I think if I was to do the P775TM CPU and GPU heatsink I need to make sure the cooling fins are not in contact with anything around it. I think the way the P775TM CPU heatsink had fins contacting the side and causing not-as-desirable contact - which is shown by the RTX CPU heatsink working better than the old P775TM heatsink.

For the GPU I used the I think? 0.5mm thermal pads from Thermal Grizzly? and the K5 Pro on the VRM. The temps are better, the contact has improved for sure.

What heat sink are you using again?

 

I'm using the P750 GTX 1080 heatsink.

 

I forgot, did you post a picture of it before? How does it look compared to the RTX or.. I thought it was stock/normal P750 heatsink?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/p75xdm2-p75xxtm-cooling.833626/page-2#post-11063533

 

That's right! Thanks for the reminder.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

This one right? Only $60? Hmmmm not bad.

 

Yes that's the one.

 

That is a pretty reasonable price.

 

So I went ahead and bit the bullet.

Going with the air cooled AliExpress setup, it was expensive, but we will see if it is worth it.

At the very least other people will know.

 

When you receive it post here a review of it and some temperature tests

 

I agree, will be interesting.

 

I wanted to do the same... but the price is so high I couldn't justify buying it. Maybe your review will change that. Thanks

 

I actually asked the seller if he/she would be willing to sell it to me at a discount, just because if I review it a little and give my results, it could be good marketing/help etc for them. But I don't think they understood it . . . so ya . . it was $250 + $20 for tax, so $270. Sigh...

I will post up how it goes though! It might take a while to ship, so we will see.

 

Yeah, almost $300 for an air cooler that might have the same performance of the stock one :|

I tried to search on taobao for something similar, since it's usually cheaper than alliexpress, but no dice

 

Are the 60 blades fans worth it? For the P775DM3 with a 8700k and a 1080?

 

Which 60 blade fans?

 

Ups. I meant the 17 blades

Sorry

 

They should have higher static pressure, and are cheap, so it doesn’t hurt to try.

 

And they are out of stock. Wanted to order them, out of stock. My luck in a nutshell

 

Here’s another listing that is in stock: https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32962408575.html

The part number for 17-blade fan is 6-31-P7753-100

 

Thanks buddy but it says it's not available

 

Showing as in stock to me.

 

Might not send to Portugal but its weird

 

I think I can sell you a pair of these fans
If you are from Porto, we can even do it in person

 

Sent PM

 

Would be interesting to compare the before and after, 13 vs 17 blade performance.

 

With noise opinions as well.

 

@joluke if you still need it, here is an in-stock listing of the 17-blade fans (the first one): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32963523618.html

 

I bought them from @skandal and received them in the mail today. Thanks buddy

 

Let us know how you get on with them.

 

I sure will. It might be taking a few more days to test them since I got my grandpa in really bad shape so I haven't touched my laptop in 2 days. I'll give ya feedback once I properly install them and give them a spin in-game

 

Best of luck to him and you, take care.

 

Got the AliExpress heatsink!

And same day 1080 pooped . . . can't even test it!!!! GGAAAHHHHHHHH

 

What happened to your card?

 

Dang that sucks.

 

I know! Same day! It started to freeze, but I had to ignore it and work, then mail came by with the package for me, try to turn on the laptop again and it is dead!

Posted a quick question on it before I realized what it was:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/p750dm2-freezing-randomly.835725/

 

If anyone has a cheap 1080 lemme know!

I prefer 1080 because more performance, obviously, but also more heat so I can test temps.

But 1070/2070 would also work.

 

One thing you can check, since you mentioned you used LM on the GPU, is take the card out and carefully inspect it, maybe clean the whole thing with some isopropyl and a toothbrush.

 

Ya, I had taken it out and cleaned with hand sanitizer too.

But you made a good point! So I got a new toothbrush and isopropyl and gave it a good scrub. I then also used a bunch of tissues to dab away any residue or anything.

On the actual chip that is mounted to the PCB there is a tiny space under it, and I think previously when I was cleaning and reapplying the LM some went to the side a little and got wiped underneath. I found that if I poured some isopropyl on one side it would help push through, under the chip. There was a decent a mount to clean and got it all cleaned out but it still does the same thing.

I think a the little bit of LM that got wiped under the chip may have caused the issue and now it is permanently fried. I don't know.

 

There should not be space on the underfill of the chip

 

Really!? I am fairly sure this is where the issue came from, some LM got in there?

This is what I mean:

 

Oh the package, how did it get that far out?