PLEASE HELP! CLEVO P870DM2/DM3 GPU UPGRADE FROM GTX 1070 TO RTX 2080 (POSSIBLE PROBLEMS)

Good Day, thank you for adding me. It will be my first post.

Let me discribe all one by one:

We have:
1. Clevo Laptop P870DM2/DM3 with
- CPU QuadCore Intel Core i7-6700K, 3400 MHz (34 x 100)
- GPU NVIDIA GF GTX 1070
- STANDART CLEVO POWER SUPPLY ADP-230EB T 230W
- RAM 32 GB

2. - GPU NVIDIA (BY CLEVO) GeForce RTX 2080
- COOLING SYSTEM FOR REPLACMENT ORIGINAL ONE

We want incert 2080 in your laptop and play games...
I was wandering tha it will be just plug-n-play... oh my God, how I was wrong.

So first surprise: Power Adapter. It will not be enough. I ordered another one (330 w) ADP-330AB D.
Next step. BIOS. I took this one

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...clevo-laptops-rtx-cards-now-supported.825558/

All instructions are generaly discribed well in above noted link (thanks a lot for authtor).

HOWEVER PLEASE BE PREPARED! For apply new bios to the chip - for P870DM2/DM3 model - it will NOT be enough to make it via FLASH DRIVE!!! Only by programator. In my case it was nightmare. I made all required steps to upload bios via flash drive and after reboot got "BLACK SCREEN" . I live on Cyprus... and here are not so much specialists with programator and "right" hands... I found only one in my town... To get access to this chip you will need to dismountel mostly all parts. It is on top near keyboard (but if you just remove key board - it will not be enough - you will need to remove topcase to get access to top side of motherboard).







Finnaly Master uploaded required BIOS "P870DMx_RTX.rom" to the chip. Also he has mention that if you apply new bios via flashdrive you will just add some information to the existing one, but not delete it at all and upload new one. To do this you wioll need to have programator. Most probably that is why I got "Black Screen".

SO FINNALY YOU ARE HAPPY OWNER OF NEW BIOS AT YOUR LAPTOP. NEW GPU 2080 INSIDE. YOU SWITCH ON YOUR LAPTOP AND IT RECOGNISE YOUR NEW GPU. DO YOU THINK THAT IT IS FINISH? NOOO!

When I came home, I've carfully checked that all drivers were installed correctly (also for 2080). All was looking well. I started Cyber Pumk 2077 and.... WTF?? I got 5-15 fps? I was so surprised. I was trying to change some setting...Without success...
I switched off the game and start looking for the reason... Hmm it seems that my laptop was not charging... I plug out and plug in power adapter. It was working - showing that charging is going on. But once I start benchmark - it stop charging one more time....pfff... it seems that under load it is not woirking. I made a lot of tests. GPU do not load during benchmark/gaming...and adapter stop charging.

I have entered BIOS (press F2 uppon system loading). I have reset all settings to the degfault. Safe-Exit. Reboot, testing - same result - once I try to play games (benchmark test) it stop charging. When I stop (exit from games/benchmark), plug-out and plug in power adapter - it starts charging.

I bring my adapter to 2 separate services - both confirmed that all is ok with adapter...but they do not know what is the problem with laptop.

IF ANY ONE HAVE ANY INFORMATION RE THIS PROBLEM - PLEASE HELP. I WILL REPRESENT ANY INFORMATION RELEVANT BIOS, DRIVERS AND ETC UPON REQUEST.

Kind regards

Boirs

P.S. Sorry for my language...it was my first post here.

 

No benchmark = PSU working
Benchmark = PSU not working

I've been working on USB-PD on a laptop that doesn't natively work that way and discovered some things about power and how our systems handle it.

Normal use average is ~60W draw from any power source.
Anything that kicks in the GPU to draw over 60W requires a PSU brick.

According to your post you started with a 1070/220W setup and upgraded to a 2080/330W.

When you say the PSU stops charging which PSU are you using? 220W or 330W?

I've seen some crazy power requirements listed for these new RTX cards which seem to be a bit too high for a laptop but apparently works. I don't know if there's a more powerful supply you could be or should be using but, IIRC there are some out there that exceed 500W or some report using 2 PSU's in tandem to power these cards.

 

Q: When you say the PSU stops charging which PSU are you using? 220W or 330W?
A: Use new PSU 330W, THIS ONE https://images.app.goo.gl/cQd9SGyW3ugUQ5P36

I have ordered it following recomendations from my laptop and VGU provider/supplier. As they told me that it should work with this GPU on my laptop

 

How do you think is it problem with PSU or with Laptop (new bios settings)?

 

So, with the 330W PSU it stops charging when you initiate the RTX card drawing max power available through the system.

IME with testing power supplies between USB-PD 60W-100W / 120W / 180W and using a power meter inline there are peculiar things that happen depending on the load.

Using HWINFO I discovered a normal idle load / web surfing averages 45W and if the PSU is connected the battery draw to charge is 15W (60W total)

I endeavored on the USB-PD challenge based on this data and tested a couple of charger units supplying up to 100W over usb and a couple of different cables. Mixed results and narrowed down the cable/charger that works best along with a power bank that supplies 100W as well. The laptop though is rated for 119.x W of power. So, even with 100W USB or 180W PSU the sweet spot is 120W max. The USB option freaks out and doesn't sync when there's a load above 60W because the draw is more than the supply.

If you take a photo of your laptop power label it might be a clue to the bottleneck if the power input / inverter of the system is limiting your input then that explains the lack of charging while using the RTX under load. What we're looking for is the V*A=W if this falls just under 230W then that's your issue why if the RTX is drawing the total system power requirement above 230W it's why it stops charging.

The reason I say this is with my experience of the 180W charger it wouldn't exceed the system requirement of 120W under load to provide additional charging to the battery while under load. Under powering the laptop would result in flapping of the power while trying to negotiate a stable current. One of the USB chargers was a dual port and when both ports were in use the ports would drop from 100W to 45W*2 which should have been sufficient to maintain power but not charge but the negotiation wouldn't stabilize @ 45W as the system wanted at least 60W.

 

I have found laptop power label V*A=W 19.5V*33.8A=659.1 W

 

Well, then that shouldn't be a limiting factor for the charger or the laptop.

The outstanding issue would be the total draw from the laptop + RTX exceeding 330W when running full load.

I would grab HWINFO64 and open the sensors option and leave it open while you engage a full load either benchmarking or gaming to see what the numbers are.

 

Charging
Eurocom offers a standard 330-Watt AC Adapter with the Sky X7C, which is easily sufficient to power the system even with the Core i9-9900K and RTX 2080 at stock speeds. However they do offer a 780-Watt adapter as well, which they shipped out with this system, and it is literally a small-form factor desktop PSU with a custom connector to go into the laptop. The PSU offers a digital readout of amperage, voltage, watts, and temperature, and includes active cooling as you’d expect on a PSU this large.

NVIDIA officially rates all of the mobile RTX lineup at an 80-Watt base power draw, with the RTX 2060 ramping up to 90 Watts, the 2070 up to 115 Watts, and the RTX 2080, which we have in our review unit, at 150 Watts and up.

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Mobile
The power consumption of the card was reduced from 215 Watt for the desktop RTX 2080 to 150 Watt. However, it is still only suited for thick and heavy gaming laptops. For thinner and lighter designs, the Max-Q variant of the RTX 2080 is intended that can be configured at 80 or 90 Watt (at much lower clock speeds).


Based on these excerpts 330W should be sufficient which leads me back to the PSU being defective in some way that it's cutting power while the RTX is engaged.

 

I do not have line with name Total System,

However I have filter "power" sensors and got this screenshot

https://vk.com/im?peers=111321&sel=4799954&z=photo3812694_457241460/mail131781

 

Link is asking for a login.

 

https://imgur.com/W1ng6Ff

 

It seems that problem was in power adapter - I have go refound on ebay...Pfff it is not easy to get good ql-ty adapter

 

~175W of power roughly means your 220W PSU should run/charge at the same time.

Assuming you tried the 220W based on the output?

 

Power adapters should be pretty simple to get a decent one as they're all made in the same places with the same parts but, it's not the case.

I'm not sure you even need the 330W based on the HWINFO though you could run into insufficient power potentially if the driver allows more power to the RTX down the road or there's a BIOS change that allow higher CPU combined to breach 220W overall.

 

Actually it was not max performance of the VGU + GPU (CPU should use approx 90w, however benchmark was using mostly only GPU resorses), when power reach maximum (which could be provided by the adapter) - PSU switched off. And performance drop down due to fact that GPU and laptop start working form the battery resourse only.

And I will try to explain why.

I have removed covers on PSU. Please see self-explanatory photoes:

https://imgur.com/TFcSTlk - first surprise under cover marking 220w...

another photoes:

https://imgur.com/uCKiNiY
https://imgur.com/ZsP48uD
https://imgur.com/kZU2IZI
https://imgur.com/w82V5EZ
https://imgur.com/zsvULcr
https://imgur.com/BkNq7vb
https://imgur.com/3psFA0E
https://imgur.com/mGTRfOl
https://imgur.com/e8I4FzX

so, I'm not a specialist, however it looks like chinese fake...

It is not 330w PSU, however only 220w...

At least during gaming and real sterss test my configuration shoud take approx at least 90w+150w=240w ... however PSU give only 220w...
I commence suppose something strange, once I was trying to use my previous original PSU with power 230w and get better performance.

So... what do you thing about it? Any comments will be appriciated.

 

Well, it's a power issue like I've been saying due to the symptoms you were describing.

220W repackaged as 330W though is fraud. I'm thinking the 180W PSU I bought might have a similar issue but, I already pestered them into a refund through Amazon warranty. Took a couple of weeks of badgering them about the power issue but finally got the refund.

As to next steps is finding a reputable dealer for a 330W PSU. The one I'm using that came is labeled Chicony and it's rock solid but expensive compared to the knockoff's by $30-$40 more.

Playing around with power supplies though and taking bits and pieces to make something work not as designed has given me insight to these pesky little bricks and how they interact with our laptops.

I'm sure you could go with a HP / Dell / OEM adapter as long as the tip is the right size. One thing I noticed looking up the P/N on the photo is it's producing barrel tips and square tips.

 

Thanks for sharring your thoughts.
I think to buy this one from Germany (hope this one is original)

https://www.ipc-computer.eu/notebook-spareparts/adaptere/adapter-adp-330ab-d-1

as you can see - end of the plug coming in laptop is "black" (same as on my previous), since it is "yellow" on fake which I'm bouht from e-bay. I have seen (cheep with "yellow"), "original" with "black" are slightly expencive.

 

Color of the tip is an indicator sometimes. When I was doing the USB-PD swap for a brick both cables I chose looked the same but, one didn't perform well and the USB-C side had to be flipped to trigger proper current. The second cable worked in either orientation just fine. Getting beyond the 60W performance though doesn't work due to the 100W PD specification and won't negotiate down properly to give at least 100W when the system tries to draw 119W.

Bricks can be rated higher and perform downwards to the max draw of 120W though. When it comes to powering a $1000+ piece of equipment though being cheap sometimes isn't the best idea especially with power. ram/drives/wifi/etc though isn't as big of a deal and easier to diagnose which part isn't working up to spec.

Reviews though can clue you in on whether something works as designed if you find it listed on Amazon or the like. I've had maybe 1 or 2 experiences on ebay where something didn't worked as claimed and it was a hassle to deal with replacing the products by needing to source a different seller and wait on it to be delivered. Going with a seller specializing in laptop parts and accessories should yield a better result though for getting the most out of your new RTX.

 

Thanks - now waiting.... Will revert with results once rcvd. Thank you for your support. Good Luk, Stay Safe and have good weekends

 

The capacitor is swollen, this is the problem, your power supply goes into protection, since it cannot hold the load.
. https://yadi.sk/i/jSK93Xg682UXKg

 

You could solder in a replacement (rated the exact same for voltage and capacitance) and it should work if it's the swollen cap.

 

I think you missed the part about it being 240W instead of 330W as indicated by the stamping inside the plastic housing. The fact that the cap is swollen just adds insult to buying something and it not working properly.

 

[QUOTE = "Tech Junky, post: 11077337, member: 733278"] Я думаю, вы пропустили часть о том, что это 240 Вт вместо 330 Вт, о чем свидетельствует штамп внутри пластикового корпуса. То, что колпачок вздулся, только добавляет оскорбления покупке чего-то, а оно работает некорректно. [/ QUOTE]
No, I did not miss the fact that there was an inscription of 240 watts on the case, but this inscription does not mean anything, since 330 watt power supplies are produced in such perforated cases, and 230 watt power supplies are produced in other cases in smooth ones.

 

uhm i may be wrong but my clevo p870km1 was shipped with 2 power bricks á 240W + a power adapter.
Theres also a clevo iteration sold with 2x 330W + the fork adapter.

it would seem you ran this system with a single 240W power brick before on your dm version, then upgraded to a single 330W power brick. This however will not do.

With a 2080 RTX you should be going for 2x 330W or at least a 2x 240W kit cuz the fluctuations of power draw will most likely cause a short spike at some point down the road.
Thats why clevo doesnt advise running such machines off of one single power brick and they also HEAVILY DISCOURAGE = Void Warranty any mixings 240W+330W power intake combinations.

The right combination should be:
2x 330W Power Adapter AC + Power Converter Box AC 200 for CLEVO Laptops
http://lps-gopower.com/lps-ac-adapt...er-msi-ac200-power-converter-box-p-21573.html

 

That's the one, and yes I'd recommend upping your power.