Repaste?

I am trying my first ever repaste (P170SM) and need some guidance and advice. I have no idea what I'm doing to be honest! I have tried to remove the heatsink but it is stuck by a sticker which is attaching it to the chassis. I guess I have no option but to remove the offending sticker if I want to access the GPU?



EDIT: After repaste (specifically the 2nd attempt) temperatures go up to 91C again, just as before the first repaste in Unigine Valley, no change. That's disappointing. No change at all, except for a 1C cooler temp at idle. How hot do P170SM's usually get? How are other people getting much better temps than I am after repasting? Is it my choice of paste? Is Arctic MX-2 good enough?

EDIT #2: OK so 3rd time actually changed temps... but only marginally. Now system idles at 33C and reaches 89C under full load at stock clocks.

 

Nope. The stickers are for convenience of lifting the heatsink off of the GPU.
You need to remove all of the screws (those labeled 5 and 6 on the aluminum portion of the heatsink) before you can actually lift it off.

 

Right you are! Told you I'm new to this!

Now, how was this paste job? Was it OK? I was seeing low 90's at stock with this paste job. Factory paste job. What do you advise next?

 

First clean it off the gpu die. Use rubbing alcohol and a rag. Then apply the new paste in a line the width of a grain of rice and apply the heatsink and tighten the screws in order. The pressure applied by the heatsink will evenly spread the paste.

Sent from my Samsung Captivate/JB CM 10.1 via Tapatalk.

 

That job doesn't actually look all too terrible since they only slightly overflowed. If you're putting on better compound, it should still help.

What thermal paste do you have on hand?

And since you'll definitely need to repaste (even if the original was okay) now that you've removed it, you will first have to clean up both the Heatsink where the paste was, and the GPU surface. Use disposable lint free cloth to wipe away the thermal paste. Use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol like 70% (since it leaves almost no residue) for a final wipe down of the surfaces. Don't use too much on the cloths since it's just for additional cleaning to make em all shiny. After that, you repaste depending on the type of thermal paste that you have.

 

Check my sig where it says "Prolimatech PK-3". Although I have a P170EM, I hope it helps.

 

Temps are... worse?!!!

39 at idle. It used to be 35-36. I've done something majorly wrong here. Temps instantly go to 90s when I load game.

Oh god what have I done?

 

What paste did you use? IC Diamond or Arctic Silver?
Did you apply a small amount in the middle? If you are unfamiliar with applying, I suggest doing a second paste job right after to see how much the paste spreads (should cover the whole shiny GPU die, but not so much as to glob up on the edges)
Personally I would apply a small blob in the center since it seems to spread the paste better than a line given that the GPU is square shaped.

Did you put pressure on the heat sink after applying when you put it back on? It takes adequate pressure for the thermal paste to spread out (especially IC diamond)

 

Arctic MX-2

I think I applied too little amount. It hadn't covered the whole die when I took the heatsink off for second try.

I put a pea-sized amount this time round.

I am idling at 34C this time round after second attempt - dare I try a game yet? :S

EDIT: It went up to 91C again, just as before the first repaste in Unigine Valley, no change. Hmmm. That's disappointing. No change at all, except for a 1C cooler temp at idle. How hot do P170SM's usually get? Is it my choice of paste? Maybe Arctic MX-4 is better? Or Arctic Silver? Or IC Diamond?

 

spread a line about the size and width of a grain of rice in the middle of the chip.

Slowly lower the heatsink.. DO NOT PRESS DOWN..

tighten screws halfway each.. and do it in an X pattern.. so screw 1 then 3 then 2 then 4..

After screws are halfway tightened, slowly tighten them each in opposite order.. 4 then 2, then 3 then 1..


Hope this helps.. =)

Edit: IMO.. I like Prolimatech best.. =) way better than the other.. Because it always worked for me.. others I had to repaste more often..

 

Is there a specific reason why you wouldn't want to press down after getting it mounted in place? Last time I checked, laptop mounts don't apply as much pressure as desktop heat sink mounts.
For best heat conduction, the paste needs to spread out as thin as possible and fill up the microscopic gaps between the die's surface and the heatsink without being too thick and becoming an insulator itself (By putting putting more pressure, even if you apply slightly too much paste, it will squeeze out over the edges of the die).

 

Go back in and check how it spread. Nvm, look like you already did. Did you take note what temp you got when it was stock?

Heat sink is enough to spread paste fine, at least in my experience.

 

You might want to try IC Diamond, it's worked pretty well for me.

 

These are stock temperatures. 90's at stock clocks just doesn't seem right. And yet I have repasted and temperatures remained unchanged. What more can one do?

 

Yes you are correct ofcourse. But what happens is the pressure from the screws would spread the paste by itself (thus the X pattern when tightening screws). And maximum tightening of the screws means that that is the most pressure that can be applied to the chip. Now if you PRESS DOWN more than the pressure that can be applied by the mounts, the heatsink will rise after applying the pressure. Thus sucking air and allowing microscopic bubbles to develop, thus leading to more heat.

Hope this helps.. =)

 

Should put a small dot, 1/4 size of a pea, very small. Not a rize grain sized line. Look at video below and you can see how a line of paste spreads, using that on a square core is dumb.

Also looking at the video I post below, you can see using a small pea sized line for the rectangular Intel core is best, based on how that spreads.

As for what paste to use? I find high viscosity, thick paste to be best with mobile. The heatsinks used by Clevo and others are terrible, they have scratches, holes, imperfections, not smooth etc. I tried AS5, MX-3 and PK-3 which are all thin and had bad results. And speaking with others who game with me on laptops, they agreed for the exact same reason and had the same results. I suspect PK-3 and others would work great, if you were using quality heatsinks that are available for desktops.

But because ICD7 is so hard to spread, it's why I recommend using both hands, finger and thumb on each side and put firm pressure on the heatsink to spread it, give it a wiggle and then keep pressure on it with one hand while screwing on the screws.
- And no, you won't crack or shatter the core. There are already measures in place around the core to make sure the heatsink won't crack, or destroy the core from pressure like that.

Just look at this video on how much pressure you need initially to make sure the thermal paste spreads evenly without air bubbles. If you just screw on the heatink in order it will spread unevenly. Maybe air bubbles. I just have much better results putting pressure on the heatsink, give it a slight wiggle and keeping pressure on the heatsink while screwing on the screws.
- I suspect Sager etc probably use plastic wrap over finger and spread the paste over the die and then place heatsink on, which is why there is always too much paste and why it runs so hot, air bubbles.




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i'm about to install a ssd and, since doing so, will also repaste my amd gpu. is it possible to repaste the intel gpu too?

 

Someone may correct me, if I'm wrong, but the Intel GPU is based on the CPU. So you might aswell paste the CPU also.

 

You know how in that video, he puts only enough to spread across the die partially? Are we supposed to do THAT, or put more paste so that it spreads across the entire die?

 

It should cover the entire die. OP - I don't think you're having a problem with paste so much as mounting your heatsink properly. It's clearly not making proper contact if it's jumping straight to 90C, no thermal paste is going to help you there. How are you putting the heatsink back on?

 

That was after my first attempt I tried again and after the second attempt got temps that rose slowly but eventually hit the 90's. At stock clocks.

 

I've ordered Prolimatech PK3 but will try again with this Arctic MX-2 some more...

 

It doesn't need to cover the entire die. But it usually does, trust me, even just a tiny dot will spread enough to cover the small die.
- If you aren't getting proper contact, IMO it could be that you do have too much in between. Heat transfer from core to HS is best if it makes perfect contact, not with paste in between. But you don't want air gaps in between, that's why you use thermal paste, since it won't be perfect contact.

You want the THINNEST layer between the HS and die as possible. You only want it to be spread where it needs to be, the gaps between HS and core. Ideally, if you had perfect fit, you wouldn't have ANY paste between them. This is why if you do the spread method on a die, you're already putting way too much on it.

 

It seems from the video that the "cross" method seems the best. Cakefish, it might not be just your thermal paste. Check your heatsinks. They need to line up correctly with the fans. Have you thought of trying the aluminium tape mod? I think in your case it would be great to see the difference it could make.

 

OK so 3rd time actually changed temps... but only marginally. Now system idles at 33C and reaches 89C under full load at stock clocks. That's -2C off both idle and load temps at stock clocks from the original 'factory' paste job. I hope that the Prolimatech PK-3 that I ordered brings temps down even further. Slightly concerned about one of the screws on the heatsink though, the head is getting worn down...

What is this aluminium tape mod of which you speak? Never heard of it. Is this what you mean?

 

Is the aluminum tape mod still worth it?

 

Yes, it is. My previous laptop had the same tape as standard as it should be with Clevos. It makes it more efficient by maximizing the air going through the heatsink. It only takes a minute as well.

 

I dont think that is the one I have seen another in a clevo/sager forum somewhere and they put it on the grills at the back of the laptop to connect the grills and the copper pipes properly i cant seem to find it on Google thou

 

Not that one, but there is an example here

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sager-clevo/676551-effects-cooler-master-notepal-u3-w-6-fans.html

i've seen the tape on ebay for about £5. I intend to do it if my temps are high on my P177SM that i should receive today or tomorrow.

 

yeap thats the thread I seen and Cakefish did you remove the stickers of the tubes? and i also have the p177SM and hitting 94'c let us know if you get that high heinz.

 

what if the problem is not the paste job?
1.ambient temp too high? try turninhg the ac on
2.heatsink damaged? flawed soldering job/very small crack on heatpipe(cant be examined)? try another heatsink
3.fan table too low, high temp but still low fan speed? try fn+1
4.you got a low asic quality card unfortunately? check it with gpuz

 

1. I live in the UK, ambient temps are usually low. Plus, we don't have AC.
2. All Heatsinks are damaged? I've spoken to numerous people with high temps, not including the ones who post on here.
3. FN+1 on constant, still high temps.
4. Don't have my laptop with me, so can't test.

 

I haven't as other people have said they are necessary. Are they? I an wondering if temps would fall if I did take them off. Don't want to invalidate warranty, although there's nothing written on them to suggest that removing them would void warranty, only 'careful, hot!' written on there. It is tempting to remove it, I can't think it's helping the heatsink to cool the GPU.

 

Sure I read that someone removed them, repasted and achieved great results. He wasn't sure if it was down to the repaste or stickers.

 

Well I might just do that then. Only the GPU one as that is the only thing I'll be repasting. Haven't checked CPU temps to be honest but I find that usually the GPU is the one that struggles with temps. My Prolimatech PK-3 has just arrived and I'm just off to local store now to get me some aluminium tape. If temps don't come down after this I'll eat my figurative hat!

 

They're only stickers, so they can be removed. They don't mention warranty on them either.

Let me know how you get on. I'm sure someone said when they removed their stickers, the temps dropped by 10~ degrees or so.

 

Stickers won't matter as far as cooling. Not by a long shot.

 

There is no reason the stickers have any effect at all. The job of the heatsink is to conduct the heat from the CPU/GPU through the heat pipes to the vanes on the rear. How could it possibly assist removing them?

 

will do brother. my laptop is currently at Gatwick airport courtesy of DHL. I should get it tomorrow.

make sure you post your results. dont lose heart brother!

 

My heatsink already has foam on it - is it worth it anyway?

 

HEY ive done it from 94 to 88-89 (it wont settle) it worked the second time the first i just did the core? then i tried again and noticed this very simelar crap one the 6 or so chips on the right and top about (like bluetak but the same as what was on my core ) and i cleaned and put a little bit of the TIM (nanogrease extreme 16w/mk) now im good

EDIT: 90/91 with Overclock +135 core and +200 memory

EDIT:All of the paste was pushed to one side think when they did it they didnt tighten the screws diagonal

 

I was wondering this as well.

I have read the tape thread (taping up the HSF assembly) but like you I have the piece of foam going across where you would put it.

My temps have stabilised a bit after re-doing my repaste, after an hour of Crysis 3 it peaked at 91 degrees with the majority of the time staying in the 86-88 degree range (celcius). Before it would peak at 94 and start to throttle.

Like you I am wondering how it is possible with 99% GPU load to stay in the mid to low 70's. I noticed if my GPU utilisation drops from 99 to ~80 I see a noticable drop in temperature. Perhaps the 70's reading is not at continuous 99% load?!

The CPU is only hitting around 70 degrees.

 

Yea 90 and under is good enough if it doesn't get hot enough to throttle then we are getting our money's worth out of it.

 

I did a very poor repaste job last night (I think I applied too much paste) and taped some aluminium tape here and there in a very slapdash manner. But temps at stock have decreased a little. So I'm going to do a final repaste, taking real care over it and see what happens. I am tempted to remove foam, after all wouldn't aluminium tape provide a more air-tight seal than foam? Not sure yet.

I did aluminium-ise the CPU heatsink-to-fan connection and I am seeing CPU temps no greater than mid-60's overclocked in the Unigine Valley benchmark. I'm sure a more CPU-intensive program would produce more heat though.

 

I want to do another repaste on my GPU but I can't as one of the GPU screws has nearly rounded (it will survive long enough to be removed but not done up again). I have asked PCS for some more and I am awaiting their response. In many respects the re-paste is almost trial and error until you get the right method / thermal paste that works for you.

Out of curiosity what is your GPU idling at? According to MSI afterburner mine idles at around 32-34 degrees.

 

I'm getting in the same situation here. One screw is really dodgy :S

OK so latest repaste, again using Unigine Valley at stock clocks:

Idle - 33°C
Full load - 89°C
CPU - 59°C

Still quite high. It'll be throttling if I overclock. What to do, what to do...

 

I think, give it a few weeks for your paste to "break in" or so to speak.

Thing is, we don't need to overclock, nor do we need the 2.0 boost. Although we all WANT it.

We currently have what is the best GPU on the market. It's just a shame it has no room for OC.

It's dissapointing, but thats the way it is. Unless Clevo recognise the issue and supply replacements for each model, we'll have to settle for what we have. Which is the fastest 15" laptop on the market.

 

I have found that overclocking the 780m - even to the max Afterburner will go on the core - has made little to no difference to my peak temperatures. In a way this makes sense as you aren't applying any more voltage. Generally speaking overclocking alone will increase temps a bit, but overclocking and adding voltage is where the big temp increases will be seen.

 

yeah ocing core itself isn't adding much more on the temps, but overclocking the memory adds up a lot heat going from 2500 to 3000 adds another 4-6 °C for me

 

Cakefish order a new GPU HS, i think Sager has issues on some models with the new HS. Repaste doesn't help, trust me... Call Sager and do a cross shipping of the HS's and report back. It's the easiest way!