What kind of external battery can I use to power my upcoming Sager 9155?

Will those normal smartphone chargers do the trick? I'm fairly certain I won't be able to charge the laptop battery with them. But could they lengthen my battery time?

If not, what kind of external battery could I use?

Thanks.

 

No.

Correct.

No.

 

No. Your laptop uses a 330W AC Adapter, DC output 19.5V, 16.9A. There is no smart phone charger batteries that would come close to having enough juice to power your laptop.

You're going to need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196GQAKM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I32THM5VPN69T8&colid=3373Y02DRJ6ZU

 

Thanks appreciate it.

What about Power banks that can output 19.5v but only 120W~. Would that be able to slow down battery drain?

 

No. Power banks like the Omni 20 that only puts out 120v will turn off because the laptop is pulling too much power.

If you want to use a laptop with a usb c charger you need a something like the XPS 13, Razer Blade Stealth, or Macbook 12". But those aren't great for gaming as they don't have dedicated GPU's.

 

If you literally want extra battery time everywhere you go, you can use uninterruptible power supplies like this one. It's funny how this thing costs about as much as a new laptop battery.

 

For starters, you can get an inverter for your car battery, tho you would need to use the direct connection to the car battery, as the Cig Lighter port only allows for up to 140w. (I know ) I used this for when I was working in the field and had downtime.

As for the UPS, that isn't what I call portable.

I saw this at a 250W output capacity: https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Out...rd_wg=QSdEL&psc=1&refRID=9Q33X4BBCQVEJ0XM8V3E

Would be ok for my laptop since it uses a 230W PSU, but you need something with greater capacity to handle your full load.

 

Yes that should work but only to slow the drain while gaming and your performance will still likely be stifled.

Going with a 120VAC type UPS supply is inefficient (DC-->AC-->DC) considering there are larger "cell phone type power supplies" that output 19.5VDC directly these days (DC-->DC).

If you want a serious supply that has a chance at keeping up, I would look into making your own lithium 18650 or LiPo pouch pack, or ordering a *QUALITY* custom made pack. I follow ebike technology somewhat closely and the guys over at Endless Sphere know their **** and pull some serious wattage out of some pretty small, dense packs these days.

19.5V is a relatively low voltage too so it's should be easy to build, just got to put enough cells in parallel to build the capacity and prevent voltage sag under load. Too much sag will cause charging to cut out, but that shouldn't be an issue on a properly designed and spec'd pack.

Not having a soldering station or spot welding machine, your best chance at DIY will be a hobby pouch cell LiPo pack. Those can also prove being sketchier than 18650's though due to poor quality control compared to quality 18650 cells so you have been warned.

The other consideration is C rate. Pulling a full gaming load directly from DC-DC means a higher C rate than using an inverter. Too high of a C rate per cell can damage an shorten the life of cells by overheating them. It is also more of a fire risk if you're pushing the C rate limits to their edge. Putting more cells in parallel helps takes the heavy load and spread it across more cells to get your C rate at an acceptable level.

 

It's a serious battery to deliver up to 330W, plug such sustained high load is hard to cool.

 

An aluminum enclosure with fans can help if that is your concern. Just gotta make sure the BMS and wiring are spec'd beefy enough, like 50A BMS should be ideal. The guys building ebikes I'm talking about are pulling kW of power. One crazy ****er just built a 3 drone motor, timing belt synced 50kW ebike drive. It's one of the sweetest drivetrains I've ever seen. Insane power to weight ratio.

 

Yes, a significantly engineered solution like that would work but usually it's neither cheap nor something you would want in your bag all day.

 

My point is you can run a 5S__P or 6S__P pack with a 40-50A BMS easily when it is only expected to draw ~20-25A max. Not only will that keep the pack cool but you will get many more charge cycles out of the pack which in turn makes the entire investment a better value. I'm not sure off the top of my head how many parallel cells would be required to make that pack actually realistic but 5 cells in series at 3.9V/cell = 19.5V when charged conservatively. I'm not sure what the realistic voltage tolerance is on most motherboards rated for 19.5VDC input, but my point still stands. If it were me I would try to limit the whole pack build to the size of a briefcase max. In fact I think it would be pretty cool to actually build it in an actual briefcase with mounted ports on the case shell for a clean professional look.

 

Oh yeah, THAT's getting through TSA. Riiiight....

 

Wait, who said anything about getting through the airport with it? The TSA guidelines only really care about the Ah/Wh capacity for lithium packs anyways.

All I am getting at is that lithium packs have significantly increased in energy density and output/throughput while simultaneously achieving reduced pack sizes in the last 5 or 10 ish years. It's a win-win all around.

Something like one of these would likely be your best off the shelf ready to go option:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MA4YVNP?psc=1

http://www.bixnet.com/bp300.html

But it isn't laptop specific and more for general use. So it is still limited in its efficiency and output amperage for what you are looking to do with it. A custom tailored solution or purpose-made pack will be more efficient and robust than these imo.

Here is an extreme pre-packed 6S LiPo that could be easily adapted for your purpose:

https://www.getfpv.com/tattu-22000mah-6s-25c-lipo-battery-3764.html

https://www.getfpv.com/batteries/co...eries/tattu-10000mah-5s-25c-lipo-battery.html

Don't forget the BMS:

http://www.batterysupports.com/22v-24v-6s-30a-6x-36v-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-bms-pcm-pcb-p-475.html

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32638786182.html#autostay

For your learning pleasure:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/serial_and_parallel_battery_configurations/subscribe_thx

http://multicopter.forestblue.nl/lipo_need_calculator.html

 

The Chafon one linked at Amazon I like, because it's rated to output up to 500W, and has the fan cooling and other nifty features. (Go Go Solar recharging!) Besides I don't think the OP is interested in a DIY project.

 

Yeah I understand most people aren't as into DIY as me. Just thought I'd mention the options in case someone comes across this thread later and has the skills and interest to DIY.

It's a bummer sacrificing 10+% of the battery capacity to conversion losses but that's the cost of general purpose vs custom/purpose-made hardware.

 

Solar charging is going to take a while unless you have a big array somewhere sunny

 

If you really wanna go hardcore you could just throw 3 Nissan Leaf modules in series and use a buck converter to step down the voltage a bit. ;P You could likely net yourself an extra 4ish hours on full power. Lol



MODULE SPECS:
http://hybridautocenter.com/HAC4/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=631

 

Just drive the car around with you and plug into the lighter port instead

 

Even 2 modules in series with a step up converter would work since they are so energy and power dense. 2 modules = 9x12x3 inches and would be an ideal briefcase pack I think. They wouldn't break a sweat pushing around 1/3C output (worst case when laptop is fully loaded ~20A @19VDC).

The question is whether or not a special charge chip needs to be integrated for the laptop to take a charge from a non-official power source. For example Dell laptops won't take a charge from 3rd party adapters afaik. I have a link somewhere that shows a power supply dissection and the 1-wire chip that talks to the motherboard/BIOS to enforce it.

 

There is no 3rd sensing line or handshake requirement, so long as the input is stable and at the right voltage (with the right current capacity) you would be good.