X9000 Poll

My X9000 is on the way from an ebay seller, and amid concerns about this whole process I just wanted to get the option of my fellow Clevorians as to the most possible outcome.

 

Since I have no knowledge of your skills or your patience, I gave you three scenarios-

You install it and enjoy, you install it wrong and fry it, or get too much Arctic Silver everywhere then get mad and smash things.

I installed an X9000 that I got from Ebay for my 5793 which I bought from Sager in 2/2008 which originally had a T9300 CPU in it. I decided to upgrade the CPU to the X9000 and the ram from 4GB to 8GB.

Right now, it's back at Sager for warranty work as the LCD display is dim all the time and I paid extra for the 3 year warranty.

Take your time with the install, ground yourself before you start to get rid of any static buildup and you will be fine. Update to the latest Bios if needed and you will be good to go.

All the best.

Mike

 

Thanks for the info, but now I have a few questions for you, since you've done this before. I just flashed the latest bios in November, so after I install I should be able to go directly to the bios and bump the multiplier (of course not until I run a few stability tests and give it a good week for AS to burn-in), correct? Also, what is the proper procedure to rid static buildup, and I thought the 5793 only supported up to 4gb of ram?

 

Once you are sure everything is running fine at stock settings then you can go into the bios and change the multiplier to either 1.5x or 2x the normal setting thus giving you a maximum of 3.2Ghz.

Intel changed the specs of the chipset after the product went to production and the maximum capability of the PM965 chipset is 8GB. I have 8GB of ram in my 5793 and it works fine under Windows 7 Ultimate.

Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

As for getting rid of static electricity, here is a good read on static electricity, its causes and how to remove the chance of it harming components you might be working on.

http://www.pcworld.com/article/82184/avoid_static_damage_to_your_pc.html

I usually just touch a metal lamp in my work area and then I have a wrist strap that is designed for multiple use. You could get by with just touching a grounded metal object and then making sure you do not do anything that might generate a new static charge. It really is common sense once you understand what static electricity is all about and the potential hazzard it poses. Of course, make sure you remove the battery and unplug the a-c power cord before you open the case so the notebook will have all power removed before you start to work on it.

Sorry for the somewhat long reply but I wanted to be thorough with my answers.

HTH.

All the best.

Mike

 

CPU came as advertised and I installed it without any problems. Already OC'd it and ran 3DMark06 with good results. Topped off at 69/70c during benchmark, and is currently idling around 36c. Should be cooler once AS5 breaks in.

Yeah, I did mess up once and had to clean CPU and reapply thermal. I really wish there was some sort of cut-off system with the AS5 tube, because when you try to take the tube away it pulls on the applied blob and makes a thin string of compound connecting the blob to the tube. Very irritating.

 

Damn, you're getting close to my score

What OC settings was that using?

 

My OC settings are in my sig, 3.2Ghz CPU and 8800@600,1500,950(BIOS OC). I see from you ORB score your CPU was running 100Mhz faster (slight bump in setFSB?), and you had your 8800@620/1550/1000, using forceware. Since we have the same rig I guess it is safe for me to do the same. I have the latest forceware, but I use it to DC, to save battery and heat, I'll have to take that extra 20/50/50 plunge and see if I don't blow anything up. I am assuming you used setFSB for the CPU bump? I might be able to nudge you out a bit because of Win7...

 

Yeah, I haven't tried running it since upgrading to 7, might try it with the drivers you're using sometime though.

 

No-GO! I bumped my FSB pushing the CPU to 3300, and set my GPU to 620/1550/1000, about 20 seconds into the first test, "graphics driver quit working" bummer. Going to try later with just the GPU OCd and vice-versa. Is there any way to just bump the multiplier to 16.5 or 17, instead of OCing the FSB?

 

Not that I have found.