important! p870dm, p770dm, p771dm, p775dm thermal paste replacement

to be honest, it seems to be that Clevo designed a very good cooling solution in the first place, but then some other department decided that "they know better", it's a common thing when you have the facility divided into many area/blocks.

but yes, fan difference for 2 gpu's i kind of weird anyway, though it manages to keep the 2nd card only 2C higher after the film removal. before that the difference can go up to 12C.

 

pehaps changing thermal paste on the PCH heatsink can help? + add thermal pad above it, so it meets the metal casing under the keyboard?

 

Yes, I considered replacing the pad with paste, but the PCH heatsink standoffs keep a significant gap between the die and heatsink of about 1mm, which needs a pad to fill. I replaced the stock pad with a FujiPoly Ultra Extreme 17W/mK, and saw a small drop in temps. I could add another pad on top as you suggested to bring it into contact with the upper chassis, using it as a heatsink, but it would be a band-aid fix. The real problem would still be a hot pch.


The thing is, even if I get the temp down to a semi-tolerable level, in the back of my mind I know something on that chip isn't right. And I don't think I'll see the 60-70C range that others are reporting. Remember, I haven't even overclocked this yet, just running games and Unigen Valley.


I'm happy to take the time to get this fixed correctly, even if I have to ship it back to replace parts. The potential for this machine is incredible and worth the wait.

 

PCH temps are going to vary a lot depending on I/O load on the system, the temps can be higher than you would expect for a CPU/GPU but if they really are abnormally high then talking to your reseller is the best bet.

 

Thanks Meaker, I will be doing just that.


Sorry to everyone for it feels like I've been flooding the forums about this issue and that wasn't my intent. I appreciate all the feedback and helpful suggestions.


Now we can get back to oogling these sexy machines

 

One of the main purposes is getting issues diagnosed so don't worry too much about it.

 

Test

Gesendet von meinem SM-T810 mit Tapatalk

 

Thanks to the OP for this post. I have P870DM-G with GTX 980. Started getting hot recently so I repasted. Interesting observation: the card slants down slightly away from heatsink as it moves from PCI slot toward front of laptop, so I was having trouble getting good connect between GPU and heatsink (got similar paste picture as OP, paste not spreading). I stuck a 2mm thermal pad on back of gpu between screws, enough to level the card flat. Got a good connect!!

I have a question regarding stacking the thermal pads! and using paste on top of pads to close gaps with heatsink as OP did in his mod. On the GTX 980 the VRMS/mosfests are on the side, but also a row of 8 on the back end of the card (near front of the laptop). I found that my GPU PCB bends slightly there away from heatsink (there is no support under the card there and I think VRM heat made card 'curl up a little').

Anyway, its about 0.5 mm. SO i could get VRM/mosfet to connect to heatsink by stacking a 0.5mm pad on top of the 4mm pad required. For the inductors I had to use a 2mm pad with paste on top to close very small gap.

My question: esp. for the VRM/mosfets is it OK to stack 2 thermal pads like OP did ???? Will this hurt the heat transmission to the heatsink? and might I damage my card cuz I had to stack 2 pads?

Otherwise, since the GPU pcb is bending, I don't think I can get connection between VRM/mosfet, thermal pad, and heatsink unless I physically bend my big beautiful copper heat sink a bit by hand (would rather not do it).

Thanks all.

 

The heatpipes are very easy to bend from handling and even a tiny bend puts the heatsink out of alignment.

But your PCB should not be bent. That's bad. Check:
That it's not the heatsink that's a bit bent
the mounting screws are all flush and not cross threaded
that the card is properly in the slot
There's nothing caught under the card
That the thermal pads aren't stacked too thick on the VRM area

While a single thermal pad of the correct thickness is best, two pads stacked with proper contact is better than bad contact from the gap not being filled properly


Also when I had it on auto fan profile sometimes the PCH would get hot >80C and I attributed that to a couple of black screens. Perhaps a side effect from slow fans due to great CPU and GPU temps from liquid metal plus removing bottom case foil. Now I'm back on the CCC version xx.50 and use the Overclock fan profile which is much more aggressive on fans that has not happened again.

 

I just spent the better half of a nice Sunday evening being frustrated.
First I repasted my 775DM3-G only to find the system shutting down after a minute or so with the PSU light going out as well.
This happened 4 times in a row and I was baffled.
I couldn't see any weird temperatures on either the CPU or GPU before it happened but it turned out the GPU temperature rose so rapidly that I couldn't tell in Windows.

I then ran into the same problem as in the OP, the GPU being 80% uncovered no matter how much pressure I applied. Even the CPU wasn't all there, but that at least is only the IHS, the center where the core is under was fine. I ended up doing the same as in the OP, putting some sturdy foam below the GPU, slightly bending the GPU board upward even. I didn't have any softer thermal pads lying around, but the ones it came with aren't that firm and even quite malleable so I squeezed them one by one until they were visibly thinner as putting pressure on all of them at once by pushing down on the heatsink might break the board, bend the heatsink and require more pressure than my little fingers can apply.

So now it makes perfect contact but what a stressful couple of hours those were. Thinking I won't be able to fix this.

Oh, and the exhaust air always used to be luke-warm.. it's real warm now.
Can't wait till next week when I delid and go LM all the way, even on the GPU... (have a nice foam dam construction against run-off all ready.)

 

The machine I bought from you had the foil and I removed it like you did. The video above was the pre-production Eurocom Sky X9 beta/developer unit and it did not have the foil.

I would remove it even for single GPU. Having all of the ventilation possible on the bottom cover is always a good idea. The thought that the systems are designed in a way to cause directed air flow over other components is pretty much hogwash. I believe the material is there for aesthetics, but I actually like being able to see everything through the grille material.

 

Whether any of us feel that the material negatively affects the component temperatures or positively affects the chassis/MB temps, it's definitely installed there for the purpose of "thermal reasons" and not for aesthetic reasons.

 

Yes, the configuration is designed to give stock storage/CPU performance wherever you take it without issue, for hot environments the M.2 getting airflow from that fan will help it not just throttle all the time.

 

Thank you very much for this very interesting post, I was looking for help about how to set the pads by myself on a 980M heatsink (originally from 7970M for P170EM) and I've found here a lot of interesting information.

 

the layout would be different for p170em

 

Ouch, thanks for the warning.
I also looked at this thread, which I hope will be coherent with what I'll have to do on my 980M, as soon as it arrives, to make it contact the original 7970M heatsink.

https://www.techinferno.com/index.php?/forums/topic/11161-gtx-980m-thermal-pad-thickness/

By the way, I read in that post that it would be advisable to put pads on the video card side opposite to the heatsink (the side of the X bracket) to cool the GTX memories. Do anybody confirm the benefit of this and the corresponding pad thickness required?

Thanks

 

The chips should not be hot enough to worry about.

 

Thank you for your kind reply

 

I just put some and it works

 

Agree with Brother @Meaker@Sager on that. Using a thermal pad with nothing to transfer the heat to can even act as a blanket and trap heat. You are better off having air circulation than just using a pad with nothing else.

 

The motherboard PCB does work as a heatsink if you have pads to it but it's already working pretty hard so you have to be a bit careful.