Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

Yeap. Specially when you dual boot.

 

That is what I noticed. If you like the newer blue GUI design, install Windows 8 or newer second on a dual boot. If you like the old black keyboard advanced menu, install Windows 7 second. It uses the bcd from the last installed OS to arrange the dual boot and advanced boot options. As you mentioned you can edit it, but they removed the original advanced menu awhile back with Win 10 (sometime during the insider preview). I used to have an advanced boot shortcut on my desktop to click into it immediately rather than the round about (but still had to be in the OS to use it). Your solution works nicer if you need the advanced menu often. I'm doing a quad-boot at the moment (win 7 pro, 8.1 pro, 2x10 ent. that I gutted like a trout before I'd install them).

Which OS was installed second?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

@ajc9988 Windows 7

 

That is most likely why you don't need the bcdedit to get the menu then...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

I no longer do it that way. I did for years. But, now I use the Prema BIOS to disable all drives except the one I am installing the OS to. Then I disable that one and enable the other OS drive and install the other OS. For W10 I run the bcdedit to add the Legacy boot menu and use F7 at POST to invoke the boot selection menu and choose the Windows Boot Manager for the OS I want to load, or I hit escape when the Windows Manager screen appears and it switches to the other OS drive. That last part only works if you have something else that makes it pause or press F8 to invoke it. As I use the Macrium Reflect Recovery menu it always pauses for a brief moment there so I hit escape at that point and it switches to the other bootable OS drive automatically. (That only works once. If you hit escape a second time it will not find anything unless you have a third bootable OS drive installed.)

Doing it this way now, each OS has its own Windows Boot Manager and nothing is shared. I can move that OS drive to another machine or whatever. Both are completely independent of one another.

 

Just finished deliding the 6700K...it was easy with the Rockit88 tool to remove the IHS, however I feel that even though this was the first delid I have made (and first time using CLU), I feel that I've spent too much time on removing the old glue and applying the CLU...by too much time I mean minimum 2 hours...but finally it is back together and the new glue is curing.
I will leave installing and testing for tomorrow. I just hope I did not break anything

Some pictures I have made:

Factory paste job:

I don't know what kind of paste Intel is using but it was starting to dry out. As you can see most of it even came off with the IHS from the IC.

Cleaned off IHS and die:

I used a knife to clean the IHS and as for the die I just used my fingernails.

IHS and die after applying CLU:


I hope it will work and it will produce better temps than with the stock paste. (Don't mind the CLU at the top right, I cleaned that off with alcohol before putting it back together)

Tomorrow I will also change the factory thermal pads to Thermal Grizzly pads. When I apply the new pads I will be careful to not do stupid (?) things like I saw with the factory pads:



To the people who have much more experience with delid:
How does it look? Did I do a decent job or I should start from scratch tomorrow ?

 

Nice job. It is not hard once you get past the fear of the unknown and the Rockit tool removes most of the fear associated with using a razor blade. Just FYI, I never re-glue the IHS. It's not necessary and it makes it easier if you ever want to change the paste on the die later. There is no harm in using something like RTV silicon to hold it as long as it does not lift the IHS off the die before the silicon hardens.

And, you're 100% correct about the original TIM. I don't know what that crap is, but it's junk. Both of the 6700K delids and my 4790K delid had the same trash under the IHS and I don't understand how it even worked. It kind of reminded me of thin layer of crumbly dried out drywall adhesive.

 

If you are gluing it back together, make sure you have pressure as the glue dries as some glues and epoxies can expand while drying or when heated... Also make sure you have good contact between the IHS and the die. Sometimes the IHS needs the edge that is toward the pcb sanded to get flat contact between the die and ihs (larger issue with 2011 chips, but can happen as your application is thinner than the thicker TIM application by Intel)...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

Intel never ceseas to impress me with their idiot ingineering.

You did a fine job.

Source still good for delidding: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide

 

I am using the relid tool from Rockit which is applying pressure on the IHS until tomorrow

And as for contact, I just checked it and it is hard to see one of the corners, but as I saw the contact looks excellent, maybe even better than it was with the factory glue.

 

Doesn't work on nvme drives....

 

Question I noticed on memtest86+ That the timings do not make any sense. Do these always show inaccurate?

 

On mine it shows XMP timings even if I am set to use a default or custom profile. What does yours show that does not look right? Can you post a photo?

 

Which part? Pressing escape or disabling M.2 NVMe in BIOS? (I'm guessing the latter since they are PCIe not SATA.)

 

The latter...

 

Will have to post one tomorrow not at the house now but the timings showed 19/18 and so on. Just appeared way inaccurate as to my custom timings in the bios.

 

Nice job. +rep and @Georgel next

 

Here is the picture. I wonder if there is something wrong with the way Memtest86+ is running. I don't know if this has to do with me having to disable UEFI in order to get the USB 2.0 to boot but the timings seem off and it was still running after 12 hours with 4 passes completed.

 

Memtest86 is notorious for showing the wrong information, as said by a user somewhere on the interwebs.

According to: http://www.memtest86.com/support/index.htm#issues

This should also apply to RAM timings. Either way, no worries. I have this issue too.

 

Ok, thanks!

 

I just quickly assembled the laptop to check if it's still working. Without doing a proper paste job on the IHS (I did not even clean the old paste from the copper heatspreader and I did not properly spread the paste on the IHS) I did some CPU stress testing. I use Lynx which puts more load on the CPU resulting in about 10C higher temp than with OCCT or Aida64 stress test.
Highest temp was core 2. Before delid the highest temp on core 2 with Lynx was 95C, now without a proper paste job it was 78C. That is a minimum of -17C!
I used Coolermaster Mastergel Maker Nano on the IHS.

 

Wow that huge. Nice!!

 

Yea mine doesn't show the same RAM timings that I set in the BIOS either, good to know!

 

Good lord that temp drop is absurd!

Intel surely does some abysmal things sometimes.

 

You said yours finished though after 10 hours? Mine was still running after 12 hours how many passes did you make in 10 plus hours?

 

I ended up with about 10C but it looks like it is a wide range from what I have seen for others in temperature variation with the delid.

 

To the people who are using CLU on the CPU: Do I need to apply CLU on the top of the IHS AND also on the copper heatspreader too to fill the gap or it is enough only on the CPU?

 

Make it on both!! With a bad example of heatsink maybe you need to switch to ICD - Gelid Extreme. Ordinary thermal paste should only be applied on IHS.

 

I check it out, if I feel it to be hard for me to apply to the copper heatspreader, I will just stick with this:
http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/thermal-compound/mastergel-maker/

 

I would still tried Liquid metal. If your heatsink is in good shape, Nothing beats it. Or use the other two thermal paste in my post.

 

It looks like this:


Not the best quality in my opinion.

 

You can still have good quality aka plane not uneven/warped cpu heatsink. Test it with pressure tape/small amount of paste and look at the results. Or just apply Liquid metal and see how it goes.

 

For unified heatsinks if you're getting bad contact due to spacing causing low mounting pressure but still have a flat heatsink a shim works great.

 

i did

 

Isn't that a bit too much?

 

Kinda is. But depending on the Heat Sink i t might or might not stay in place.

 

I personally would want it to be thinner. I would be scared of damage to a component from moving the laptop around with there being so much liquid metal. If you can't get good contact with a very thin layer than you really should stick to Gelid GC Extreme, IC Diamond or something comparable. Just my thoughts.

 

Yeah. Better spread thinner layer of Liquid metal on both IHS and heatsink. Heatsink will adopt more of the Liquid metal and the results will be better. Less leakage outside where it should stay as well

 

@Mr. Fox weird how upping the tREFI actually improved stability in your case, since that is the only timing that improves performance with higher values, not lower! it basically defines the intervall, in which data in the memory banks is refreshed before continuing with operations. so the smaller the time intervall (= the lower the tREFI value), the more "interrupts" you get for refreshes. upping tREFI should then actually put more stress on the ram and not improve its stability im not doubting your findings, just surprised! im still trying to get ddr4-3000 stable in my machine, so far at least 2800 is stable with tweaked timings...

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

Okay, I will go with CLU for the CPU. I just checked the contact with some tape and it was so good I might not even need CLU on the copper heatsink

 

When I was trying to figure out what was going wrong I found that information on a couple of web site. I think it was Overclock.net where I last read about increasing tREFI was helpful for stability and improved performance. As it turned out for me, that was true.

 

well, one more thing for me to try then to get 3000 mhz stable... its almost like my machine doesnt want me to reach those speeds, so annoying! *ugh* also, unfortunately, changing dimm voltage doesnt do bupkiss in my case, just sticks to stock 1.2

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

Memory voltage control did not work on the P870DM-G either. You could only increase it using XMP and Thaiphoon Burner tweaking of XMP.

 

4.6ghz idle at 30-45 but crashes on time spy CPU test

 

soo, after i got my rockit i decided to delid my P775DM3 yesterday with pretty impressive results so far, i already posted them in the discord chat but will post them ofc here too, now i only have to hope i can push these 4.7Ghz


before max FAN -145mV UV and 4.2Ghz


after MAX Fan -145mV 4.2Ghz

i never ever thought i would be at only 61 °C, i mean sure the MAX Fan is much more powerful than the MAX Fan on my previous P771DM-G but holy shat that temps. i doubleposted it in the P775DMx thread too, next step will be some memory tuning and/or pushing the CPU to 4.3-.4.4Ghz as daily driver and OC the GPU but for that i need a direct AC to the GPU itself to be under the 38 °C throttle

Used Conductonaut for CPU DIE to Heatspreader and Kryonaut for everything else

 

Around the same temp drop as for me with my P775DM3-G Seems your Intel stock paste was not the best either

 

yep seemed like it, but i found 77 °C before not that hot either but i noticed while gaming the GPU+CPU combination get's the CPU cooking

 

nice, solid 15C drop under load, good job there buddy how u liking that rockit tool, aint it sweet? i got around 10-12C drop in delta load temps after switching to kryonaut/GC Extreme