Clevo Overclocker's Lounge

Yes, looks like the process still has a fair amount of variation.

 

Nothing wrong with 4th. It's still top 5.

New os install....

Just sitting on top of a portable a/c unit.
I got tired of going outside a very very long time ago.

 

Burning the mid-night oil...21c ambient temp after rains today...there is now way I could do this during the day here...

 

I was ready to chop a hole in my desk and plumb an ac duct under my @Mr. Fox type modded u3. That sounds easier, run it on top of the portable ac

 

@Prema I shouldn't admit this to you but after I had your bios flashed. If I unplugged my laptop, I lost all my bios settings. Figured my cmos battery was no good. I checked it today and realized I installed it upside down. WOW! I surprised even myself on that one. No wonder you couldn't walk me through the driver update.

 

You can do that as well. When you aren't benching....Just run the U3.

 

Here's an OLDY from my YouTube channel. No plumbing required. AC on wheels, bro. Goes where you want it, when you want it.

Anyhow, enjoy the blast from the past, from back in the day when Alienware laptops were actually a special product.

Published on Aug 11, 2012 - still using the same AC unit to this day. Works out to about $75 per year thus far, so nice return on the investment. A gift that keeps on giving, and makes my office comfortable when it's too hot and I am not benching.

I've never done that before, but it certainly sounds like something I might do. Simple human error, and people in glass houses should not cast stones. So, I am laughing with you, not at you.

 

Here was mine.... Had the a/c long before the laptop which i got in August of 2011. Well the first one, then sent it back and got another one right after that.

 

Yeah, this is your fault. I didn't mention that, but let's face it... a good idea is always a good idea. I learned from the best.

 

@Mr. Fox THAT IS an oldie but goodie. Sweet setup! and you're right. Alienware isn't making anything close to that anymore.

 

@Johnksss@iBUYPOWER That's another sweet set up.

 

I live in Mass. and we're getting hammered with snow. I'm heading back out to shovel. You guys be careful and have a good night.

 

Thank you sir!

The good old days indeed.
And Scook9's catch phrase...... "2 Da Freezer" With his stand alone freezer. Or Mr Moo with the top shelf freezer with laptop fully inside. Back when it was considered "ridiculous by 99 percent of the forum to be doing anything of the sort to a laptop

Better run a quick bench to see how much better it runs when cold....Provided you aren't already doing this.

Night bud.

 

@bloodhawk how do you remove the clips without damaging the screws and heatsink themselves?

 

Tiny Torx scroo driver bit, or the smallest Phillips head.
Stick it in one of the holes and push outwards.
Once you see it coming out you can use the middle nub to finish the job.

 

They are just ordinary c-clips like what has been used for years in automotive and machinery applications. You would most commonly see them used in situations where a pin slides through holes to make a hinged joint or pivot area... used typically on the end of the pins so they do not fall out. The clips are made of spring steel and snap on/off. Remove them in a place where they won't get lost if they go flying across the room. In case removing them doesn't help, you may want to put them back on because it is convenient having the screws and springs held captive on the heat sink. If you slip something tiny between the clip and the screw like @bloodhawk mentioned, it will pop off without much effort.

 

I'll try this once the KM1 is delivered.

Waiting game is forever!

 

The new heatsink actually feels flatter -

Spoiler

 

Please. Can any of you fill out this form in the link? Ask what happened with Liquid Ultra? I will at least try with my not so good English. You never know if you get a response or not http://www.coollaboratory.com/industry-requests/ or http://www.coollaboratory.com/contact-us/

 

Joined the 7700K club. Stock run for now:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/18600211?

 

Here's this...



@D2 Ultima

 

let me know if you have found a way to solder the shim into IHS and I'll buy a custom heatsink from you lol

 

So you think that removing the clips AND using a shim (soldered) is probably best huh. Welcome to clevo I guess? When I get my pads (they have been a long time coming) I will see how the clips mod alone handles things for me (with an ICD fence to prevent any leakage).

 

Yeah Clevo are getting away with too much here, they need to fix this lameness. Anyway... I won't complain too much more in this thread since Brother @Prema suggested we should shut our pie holes and start benching some Actually I'm waiting on pads (and Conductonaut) too before I get rid of these washers, freeball and go shimless.. that's my excuse

 

I'll be interested to see how you get on.

 

I think using a shim potentially eliminates the need to remove the clips and improves contact pressure. As long as the heat sink is not bottoming out against the clip, removing it serves no purpose. It will possibly vary from one machine to the next with inconsistent production quality. But, as I showed in the video, 3 of the 4 are visible, so all a guy has to do is look. If there is any doubt or one's eyesight is too poor to tell, then ditch them. They are only there for the sake of convenience, to hold things together. They serve no other purpose unless the interference was on purpose, and I doubt that is true.

 

if clevo would fix this problem they'll be steamrolling every other DTR

with a delid to be fair

 

Wow thats what the gap is like for me with the clips off. With the Clips on, there is a more of a gap, which is easily visible.

 

?


@Mr. Fox

I just did a test fit with the new CPU heatsink, it has that gap in the middle like yours. The original one sits pretty much flat. Ill take some pictures later tonight.

 

was complementing clevo on their QC

 

They need a lot more of that tbh.
I mean freaking brackets themselves being uneven?? Like wth.

 

Thanks, Brother @Papusan. I filled it out and asked what they have done to change it and why. I asked them to go back to the old composition.

 

Btw. The tests you ran after removing the c clips, were they with clu or Kryonaut ?

 

They already are steamrolling every other DTR, but not without the need for end-user correction of their mistakes. They are the only legitimate and viable option that exists, other than the Tornado F5 (amazing machine, but a bit too small to be called a DTR). While nothing is perfect, in light of the price charged for a new P870 there should be hardly anything that needs to be corrected. Delid and CLU... sure. Would do the same to a desktop. But, the nonsense with sloppy fitting heat sinks and dented/bent/deformed vapor chambers, wrong size thermal pads... inexcusable and suggests that they either do not care as much as they should, don't know what they are doing, or they're not paying attention to QC.

Kryonaut. I've got a huge tube of it, so I am using that primarily for ease of cleanup and to avoid spending more money on thermal paste. I think I have gone through 5 or 6 syringes of CLU since I purchased this machine, so that's getting to be a financial burden, LOL. I am about to run out of IC Diamond and have the Coolermaster Maker paste on order that I will be testing as well. After I solder the shim and I am ready to do what I would hope to be the final CPU repaste for a year or two, then I will apply CLU.

This is the first time I have seen half way decent temps with Kryonaut. I don't know for how long, but they're acceptable for now. I'm finally not disappointed in Kryonaut for the first time ever.

 

Whoa. Considering that, the temps are actually impressive.
And there seems to be be way more room for improvement.
I'll solder a 0.3mm shim onto the heat sink as well this weekend, let's see how that works out.

 

Yes, I agree. They are way better than I expected. It seems a bit too obvious that having a lop-sided/warped heat sink that hits the retainer bracket on one side and has a huge air gap from hitting the c-clip on the other side leaves a lot to be desired.

I will have to put back the original thermal pads after I solder the 0.5mm shim. The stock pads were the perfect thickness with the shim installed.

Edit: Hey, you moved from SFO to LA? Not fair... you can go see Brother @Johnksss@iBUYPOWER whenever you feel like it and it's too far away for me to drive, LOL.

 

Yeah i might have to add a 0.5mm pad as well, considering the 0.3mm shim + solder would be around that much thickess and rest can be taken care of by the compression after the VRM's start heating up.

Haha, i moved almost a year back. LOL weirdly enough @Johnksss@iBUYPOWER doesnt want to meet up with me, i even offered to bribe him with free Indigo Xtreme XS for his 5960X, but he never responded
Might need to take him out on a date first or something

 

@Johnksss@iBUYPOWER doesn't simply leave his server farm to meet with us mere mortals unless we beat at least one of his benches first. Gotta earn that eternal life...

Maybe take your DM3 to meet @Mr. Fox and his AC unit first while on your trip...

 

Hm, how do you guys solder the shim to heatsink?

 

Lol the DM3 will die of the heat even before it gets there.

Liquid solder / solder paste and careful application of heat.

 

Ah, I didn't know. As many times as i have driven out his way. I would have stopped by.

 

Haha, I moved to Culver City earlier last month with the work place in Santa Monica.
Finally rid of the awfully long commutes

 

I picked up a new client in Chatsworth, so I tend to have to drive out there in 2 hour a day traffic both ways.


Side note. Still not stable but am able to get into windows.

 

Nice one John!

I am too scared to mess up my Windows with memory errors to even attempt anything remotely to that...same for using CLU on the outside of the processor. Chicken here...

 

Well...I to do not use clu on gpus. Only cpu.

And you only need to just shut it off and not let it try to repair itself and after 2 reboots it's fine.

 

Same here on the CLU. GPU doesn't need it as much as CPU, and CLU costs more money. Not worth the extra expense, especially since I only overclock the crap out of my GPUs using AC cooling. Any cheap thermal paste will work fine with AC cooling... doesn't even need to be a good product for that.

The Windows automatic repair seems to actually cause damage for me, so I hold down the power button and turn it off to avoid it as well. I may run checkdsk manually, but that's it. If it gets corrupted to the point of no return I just restore one of my good images or do a clean install.

I don't even use sfc /scannow any more because that will undo some of my OS tweaks that I do not want to have undone.It creates more work that I don't have time to fart around with fixing than simply restoring a good drive image.

 

Well, when I said not using CLU "on the outside of the processor', I didn't mean 'outside of the processor'.
I am literally only using it inside the processor for the DIE-LID connection.
Traveling far too much to risk CLU spreading to places it doesn't belong...even sealed off the solder points inside the CPU.

 

Lol noop.

How hot does it usually get because of the ambient temps in youknowwhere.

 

I knew exactly what you meant, bro. I am hoping I can get away with using CLU only between the die and IHS after soldering the shim for no reason other than it will save money in the long run if I can use IDC, Coolermaster Diamond Maker or Kryonaut on top of the IHS. But, only if I can get CPU temps that closely resemble or match CLU and are durable for a long period of time. That's why I am looking at an option like a gasket to corral the CLU for peace of mind. I never had to worry about it before, until they made it runny crap like Conductonaut and Phobya Liquid Metal and CL Liquid Pro.

I tried the Liquid Metal Pad and for some silly reason it never melts no matter how hot the CPU gets. You can actually see it in the video I uploaded. The metal pad is on the heat sink and shim.

 

Same here. Really hoping to keep temps under 85C @ 4.8Ghz using conventional pastes.
Specially considering the 7700k i have in my DM3 right now is a voltage guzzler.