*** Official Clevo P65xRS(-G), P65xRP6(-G) / Sager NP8153(-S), NP8152(-S) Owner's Lounge ***

Feel you! I got a sweet p670rs with a gtx1070 and had to return it because my wife could not stand the noise. Maybe its better now with the new EC, but it was not the most silent laptop.

Ended up with a asus g752vs. Its a lot bigger and thicker, but its also a lot quieter.
I guess thats the price to pay for better noise profile.

 

Fixed that for you.

The new EC does fix it in fairness, but it's the whole grass is greener thing when I look at the PC. I have till the 16th anyways to figure it out.

 

Are there any 300w or 330w power bricks for this laptop anywhere?

 

Do you need that much? Are you overclocking/volting (by a significant amount)? The stock one for my RP6-G is 200w. With a killawatt meter the highest draw I've recorded during some benchmarks was 165watts.

 

Propably not. I will propably go with the p751dm2-g and when it runs out of juice then i will overclock the hell out of it and buy external gpu so it will become my desktop pc later.

 

Does your flexicharger work? On my P651 it only works after changing the setting. After another restart it stops working. Does any of the new bioses fix this?

 

Ah. Well I can tell you the adapter on mine has a standard 5.5mmx2.5mm jack size. Can't tell you for sure what's the compatible size with the 751 though, but you'll need the same jack size and roughly the same voltage as your stock one. It would be highly unlikely you need anything with that high of wattage though TBH, looks like your stock one is 19.5v @ 230w. I've been thinking about getting a much smaller adapter for my 650 (like the Razer 165w) because the monster Clevo one takes up WAY too much space in my backpack.

 

Nope, not working. It behave exactly as you descirbed.

 

My P670RS-G gets here tomorrow and I am excited! @gooface does the 1.05.04 BIOS file from Sager that you posted contain the earlier EC update from XMG? Or do I have to first install the EC update and then the BIOS? Also, I can skip the earlier XMG BIOS update altogether, right?

 

This is with the newest bios for 15 inch with 1060. (bios 1.05.03)

 

How do I flash this? There is no .bat file

 

I just updated my BIOS 10 mins ago (thanks to the guy who posted earlier). Just put all the extracted files in a FAT32 thumb drive. Go into BIOS and choose "Launch EFI Shell from filesystem device". Everything updates automatically.
One note: I encounter where my keyboard is lighted but the system is shut off. Maybe it was because I did not pull the AC after the update shut off.

 

Thanks, that worked. I followed an EFI update guide that said the files should go in a folder structure like "EFI/BOOT/" on the flash drive. Obviously that didn't work.

 

I do not have that issue however I did remove the ac adapter. Can you please test for me if you have the same issues with hdmi with dgpu mode aka high cpu cores speeds and system proces usage. For me this happens when I plug in hdmi. Rebooting with hdmi inserted doesn't create the problem. Also do you notice some choppyness with mshybrid in chrome or Excel with hdmi?

 

Maybe they resolved that problem only for 650RS and 670RP/RS (bios 1.05.04)?

 

Thanks again for posting this. Flashed mine this weekend and had a heart-attack moment when the system took a really long time to boot up after the first step of the flash process!

 

I had the same trouble with washed out colors. It took me quite a while to figure out what you found - that you have to force the monitor settings to 2nd screen only or it won't let you change any settings on the external.

 

hi, it says plugged not charging even after restart. Does it mean that my flexicharge works?

 

Can you shutdown, unplug the AC adapter for a few minutes, then turn on the PC and test?

My flexicharge is working with the new BIOS only if I go into BIOS first and edit the flexicharge settings (even though BIOS is saving my settings). If I go from shut down and turn on (without going into BIOS), Windows is charging my battery.

 

ditto

 

yes. After disabling adapter not working, like yours. Confirmed to be broken

 

i think leaving my computer in sleep mode might be a temporary fix. i have to unplug and stow my laptop daily.

 

No, it includes a Sager EC update, I personally am still using the XMG one, but that's your call. Doesn't matter which order you flash them, but to make sure you get the XMG one I guess you could flash that last.

Yeah no need to flash the older bios, the new bios is the only one needed.

but yeah, I really wish there was a way we could either update the OP or make a wiki with all this info, its sorta buried in this thread at this point. But all people need to do at this point if you have one of these laptops is flash the bios from my newer posts depending on the model you have and then flash the XMG EC I posted earlier, no need to flash the XMG bios anymore. If you have the 1060 15" model I would personally stick with the Sager EC that is included in the BIOS I posted the other day.

And yes, the 1060 15" laptop still does not have the external monitor fix yet...

 

ask them about flexicharge issue plz/

 

Just did, I will let you know what they say.

 

If your laptop consumes 165w with some benchmarks i would not recommend a 165w power brick. It won't be enough. You wan't to leave some headroom. At least 190w.

I was actually shocked that Clevo uses 230w brick with 6700k and gtx 1070. That is cutting it so close.
That is why im going with a 300w brick.

 

Had a word with @Donald@HIDevolution today, they're gonna ship all new systems with the updated BIOS that fixes external display lag. @gooface posted really easy to follow instructions on Pg 298 of this thread, so anyone looking for it should be able to find it there.

 

Thanks for the answers. Do you know if the Sager EC update fixes the fan profile issue or not? I guess that's the only reason I would use the XMG EC update over the Sager one. The instructions for the XMG update are a little more involved, so I was hoping to avoid it if possible.

 

Maybe we should add links to your post and other helpful downloads to our signatures for new people.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Someone by the name GamingLaptopJunky (there's a website by the same name) uploaded a bunch of videos on YouTube on the P650RS, P650RP6 et all over here - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVkdVcV2nehRmsCWC3Awe5g so take a look at these for gaming benchmark performance etc.

 

Can't say I know the answer to that since I never used the EC from Sager (other than the stock one that came with my laptop) since for some reason it didnt flash over the XMG on (some others experienced this as well here, no sure if I did something wrong or not) I'd say just test it, if it works with you just use it if not there's always the XMG one.

 

duplicate

 

thx

 

Can anyone corroborate my experience? Start up any game that's at least semi-GPU intensive, open up CPU Z, HWinfo, or throttlestop, and check cpu wattage.

When the GPU is active it will NOT go past the ~25 watts mark, the moment the GPU closes it can reach 50w+

 

You do have to be a little careful moving between different versions of the EC.

 

@Meaker@Sager elaborate please?

 

Being able to move back and forth between versions is not a given, this is why prema warns about flashing back to an old version in his guides.

 

@Meaker@Sager Sorry I'm new to this. If I just want the fans fixed, which EC should I install?

 

I've posted several times with the "fix" for this, without a BIOS update. The issue clears up for me by re-installing the Intel RST and Intel Chipset drivers. Specifically I grabbed the versions from Phoenix's P870DM2/3 driver page here.

It seems to crop up about once a week with Windows updates. I'm guessing some part of the driver gets updated.

For something like Runescape you should probably run a frame limiter since excess frames are useless there. You can probably even run it under P8 low power state which you can force with the Nvidia Inspector "Multi Display Power Saver".

Mine is fully capable of playing most light games (LoL, CS:GO, various 4X and rogue-likes) under P8 state which doesn't spin the fans at all.

I also wear headphones all the time which helps when gaming on it.

 

Thanks for that, gave this a go and they don't spin up as much! Perfect for quiet office environment. Now time to look into under volting and see how this goes. Thanks again.

EDIT: How do I revert back to normal speeds?

 

To clarify in my test I had both the CPU and GPU maxed out at 100% and I saw it climb over 160w once for a brief moment (I believe the cpu started to downclock as the temps climbed in the 80s).There's no real world usage I could do to reach this scenario. I spawned 8 parallel compile jobs and ran a graphics benchmark at the same time to achieve this. In my gaming testing (tried a few heavy FPS's) with cpu and gpu set on max performance/clock profiles I usually was sitting around 130-150w. Normal usage doing web browsing, video playback, file editing, simple compiling, vnc, etc, I was usually around 30-90w. I intend to to do more testing to confirm all this, was just some quick tests I threw together the day after I got it, but 165w would be sufficient IMO. Especially since I just want a portable power brick that I can take to work/meetings/etc. I would keep the larger one for my home for sure.

The 751 you're looking at does have a 6700k vs my hq, so you have a +45w TDP there. Then whatever the 1070 draws in addition to that (I'm not sure), and then your screen/other differences. So you're definitely closer to the 230w max there, then I am to my 200w. However, TBH, you don't really need to over size your laptop AC power supplies that much more then what is needed @ max draw. It'll drop in efficiency (ac->dc) typically the higher you go it's max, and over a long period of time (depending on several variables) it MAY have a slight decreased max output (more likely it would just fail before it's measurable), but that's about it.

 

Where are you measuring consumption? PSUs are rated after losses.

 

Using a Kill-A-Watt meter on the AC side of the power supply. Yeah it is before the efficiency loss factor too, so 165w draw from the wall is probably a lot less (assuming its 80-90% efficient) going into the laptop.

 

Well I scrolled through pretty much this entire thing and saw your post on the BIOS flash, haven't done it yet but don't think I should have any problems. I didn't find anything comprehensive really on the EC flash though (where to download it, how to flash, etc.).

The GPU idles at 50 deg C and it runs at the base clock (1443 MHz) constantly! My fans are driving me absolutely insane. I played Black Mesa for like an hour and temps neared the 90s even though usage was only around 15% and I was running at 75fps. I using the custom profile in CCC but still. If I can't get this under control it's going back.

I believe the 1.05.02 bios flash is the right one for the P670RS (17.3", 1080p, 1070, 6700hq). I'll rarely use an external monitor but I figured I should do both.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for not seeing this in here.

 

Just posted a gaming laptop guide on the what notebook should I buy subforum. It's certainly hard to be objective about it when its so good

Not sure why your gpu is that high temp wise nongaming.

 

Have you tried max fans and elevating the notebook so the bottom air intakes have an easier time? 90c is hot. Might need to repaste. 1070s seem to be running hot on the P650s but should be a tiny bit cooler on the P670. Don't think anyone else has gotten temps like that. Would def send it back if nothing improves.

 

I've got a 6800HQ and 1070 with 1080p panel. My kilowat was reading about 186w-200w under heavy stress and the power brick gets quite hot. Now the brick is rated at 230w, so even 200w is under 230w, but still very close and you can use GPUZ to watch it throttle due to not enough power. My guess is that psu can not put out over 200w, and even if it could you would fry it fairly soon due to running it that close to max, no fan and all that heat. I usually build PCs and target about 50-75% of max. So when I build a PC that uses 600W, I will use a 850-1000W PSU, NOT a 630W psu, that is just asking for trouble or throttling.

 

GPU-Z power throttling is related to the VBIOS, not the PSU. Not just that, but the PSU is rated for 230W actual load, and 200W from the wall at around 85% efficiency is going to be closer to 170W. With any stock EC, you're never going to run into danger using the prescribed PA.

 

I do that too for my PC's, only because of efficiency reasons. I target about 50% my normal usage on a PC, not while gaming/etc (i don't use cpu/gpu scaling really on my desktops), because MOST PSU's have a bell curve with 50-60% typically being when it's most efficient at converting (again depending on different variables). But that's because they're on and in use 24/7 for many years. Same reason why I get the most efficient PSU I can buy. 600w->630w is about a 5% over allotment, that's usually within the tolerance spec for the electronics so probably not advised, you'd probably want to stick to at least 10% out. That being said I've built a lot of budget pc's for large scale deployment that use close to 90% the max psu rating, no problem. It's just not the most efficient choice.

Maybe later this weekend I'll build an inline DC meter to test the actual draw and efficiency of the stock power brick. Depends how bored I am lol.

 

Hmm aright. I personally dont use the Intel rapid storage technology drivers but IL try to reinstall the Intel chip set drivers and see if that helps. I've found your post you mentioned.Completely missed it .

Edit: Just updated my intel chipset drivers to version 10.1.1.32 tho nothing changed