*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

Ok Thanks. I was worried the constant fluctuation may harm the processor but it is a feature.

 

not a bug, but a feature indeed

 

Ok guys, I've been reading this thread for a while now since I got my 750dm-g a month ago. Everything has been working awesome (overclocking, network, 4k screen, etc.) but then this afternoon the computer shut off abruptly, and now when it boots the screen doesn't power on and it goes to max fans with the power led blinking steadily. I see activity on the hard drive led, but then it powers down. What could have happened to cause this? (I'll be contacting xoticpc tomorrow about it, but thought I'd look for answers here, too)

edit: it's running Windows 10, and there was an update a day or two ago, but it didn't seem to affect anything for at least a day...

 

hm thats weird....dont wanna be overly dramatic but for now it kinda sounds like a hardware failure.

check the following: take out ram, bios battery, regular battery, disconnect psu, press power button for 20 seconds, then reassemble and try to boot up.

if that aint working, try each ram stick individually, best in different slots each time.

if that doesnt pan out either, its most likely either the display or the gpu at fault...

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

I had several GPU issues with exact the same behavior - spinning fans and blinking LED's.
So as @jaybee83 stated either Win10 corrupted your screen or your GPU got fried somehow....

 

I would speak to your reseller on an issue like that, they will likely ask for it to be sent in.

 

Agreed looks like dead mobo or GPU...

 

has anyone managed to figure out why the clevo laptops have really slow power on/wake up from sleep, times? I just got my p750dm and I am very pleased with it except this. just curious if anyone had figured it out. thanks.

 

ok this question may be worse than my last one, so please pardon my ignorance...

I am new to this clevo thing. i've only had a thinkpad and a Lenovo ideapad in the past. So, is there special setup i'm supposed to do for this thing? like installing drivers? or updating drivers? because all I did was plug my p750dm in as soon as I got it, and started installing things for work, etc.. but I didn't do anything differently than I would have if it was a new thinkpad or something. Thanks.

 

Just got my 770dm-G yesterday. Anyone else noticing that the trackpad sucks? It feels like a cheap acer laptop trackpad and not a high end gaming laptop trackpad. My drivers should be good. Just wondering if others found this too.

 

well, a little more detail on what exactly bothers you about the trackpad might help spur some input on this

 

It just doesn't seem really responsive or accurate. Sometimes the cursor seems to hang up when swiping my finger across trackpad. It just feels more like my moms $400 acer than my three year old MacBook trackpad.

 

hm that doesnt sound right. which drivers do u have installed?

 

Might be worth looking for the latest set from the manufacturer.

 

Guys are there any heads up on p775dm-g models? I know eurocom has it on their site but what about europe resalers other than xmg cause I don't like any branding on my lid?
I really opted for this model in long term. ☺


Poslano sa mog SM-N9005 koristeći Tapatalk

 

I've had my Batman for a couple of weeks now and would like to start tweaking it.. I've installed xtu bit have no idea what I need to do to undervolt it.. Are there any guides here..or can someone post a screenshot? Thanks

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

Lower offset,Test,Repeat.

Lower core voltage offset,Due to data iv'e seen for Skylake,lowering as low as -170mv and grudually decreasing may not hurt.if it happens to crash there try -150.

But the general idea is to Run a demanding task,such as intel xtu stress test or benchmark to test for stability.

Step 1 - Go to Intel XTU advanced tuning drag the Core voltage offset to one of the numbers i mention
Step 2 - Go to stress test and run for at-least 5 minutes
Step 3 - Considering Step 2 didn't end up in a crash Go back to Step 1 and lower voltage ie. if you had -150 lower it to -155
Step 4 - repeat 1-3 (incrementally decreasing voltage) until crash.
Step 5 - add at-least +5 to the number you crashed with ie. if -170 crashed test with -165
Step 6 - if satisfied with safe value run test for 20 minutes to 1 hour if you'd like.Run xtu benchmark or cinbench,basically you want to verify stability

 

I leave everything on default settings and just decrese vcore. Decrease 10mV every time and run the stress test from the program for 30 min. I would not advise you to push it to the very limit, mine is -100mV and is stable but everything from 50-100 is good enough to decrease temperatures 5-10 grades. Do it at your own risk, starting from -50mV is probably safe 99%.

I actually heard people decreasing past 100mV but not 170. That is insane. Are you sure?

 

After using this computer a while I have to say I'm still impressed although the trackpad isn't that great (it's okay though) and the POST time is insane. I have servers that POST faster. Maybe one day that'll be resolved but for now I'm waiting 25 to 30 seconds to boot.

Sent from my OnePlus One

 

I'm waiting for the 775, too. Besides Eurocom, the only other place I've seen it listed is multicom (a Norwegian website). Multicom is expecting to have it in stock by mid-Februrary. It's becoming more difficult for me to justify waiting for the 775 because:
1. from what I've seen at Eurocom and Multicom, it *seems* like the 775 will be unreasonably overpriced
2. my current aging laptop is literally falling apart (2 small plastic pieces just fell off within the last 2 days, not to mention the crack in the chassis).

 

Thank you for the advice..I'll get tweaking.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

maybe someone with more experience than i @ jaybee83 can add his great wisdom,but unlike overvolting,worst case common side effect to undervolting is a restart,freeze,crash,bluescreen instability. I'm currently sitting at -188mv...(pass short terms test,stable on current usage) on balanced i can go -190 to 193,but unstable.On performance about -185mv(-175 safe)

 

You could get data corruption if it happens again and again, but as soon as it starts becoming unstable you can boost it up a little.

 

Which processor? Mine is i7 6700 but I don't think K version would make a difference. I am gonna try undervolt more, I stopped at -100 because I thought it was good enough and not worth the time in stress test

 

Yes that too!...

Over a cpu life cycle will it be able to maintain the same under-volt (like say at the time highest stable is -100mv) or does usage wear factor cave in after lots of usage and aging? could answer independently for stock vs overclocked,i know there may be lots of factors to consider but best case scenario

 

Hi all,

I recieved my laptop about a week ago and have tried undervolting. Everything seems to be fine @ -175mV my issue is these settings arent kept once I load up the laptop again. (I have done the hibinate disable already) Does anyone have any ideas?
Also I am currently looking at getting another 850 Evo m.2. SSD and wanted to check if this was the right one?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ARWFG41TXG1LU

Looking forward to contributing to the thread.

Jim

 

I'm new to undervolting laptops, so I wanted to check a couple of things:

i. what seems to matter most for sustained temperatures is the max TDP value, as the cooling system can only push away so much heat per second

ii. undervolting allows you to get more performance from the CPU for a given TDP ceiling, i.e. your chip can run at higher speeds for the same power usage

iii. so to lower temperatures, all you have to do is cut TDP - for instance, on my i6700k, if I set TDP to 65w the CPU rarely goes over 70C even if I'm running Prime95 for an extended period. However, if you leave the machine at stock voltage, the CPU will likey throttle all the way back to 3.2-3.4GHz after a couple of minutes. By undervolting to (say) -150mV, the clocks will get up to 3.6-3.8GHz for the same TDP.

iv. theoretically, because power is proportional to voltage squared, a 12% reduction in voltage (which is roughly what -150mV would be at peak I think?) is equivalent to around a 22.5% reduction in power (and therefore heat) output. Or to put it another way, running the CPU at -150mV at a TDP of 74W is similar to running the CPU at stock voltage with a TDP of 95W in terms of processing capability

My current set up is to maintain an undervolt of -156mV with a TDP ceiling of 65W (chosen purely because its the same TDP as the i6700). Even in a high-stress scenario, e.g. a current version of Prime 95 small FFT running for a long time, the CPU temp stays at a constant 69-70C and the clock speed tends to stabilise at 3.6GHz. Under normal usage, temperatures stay below 75C at all times, and I don't think the CPU ever throttles back below 4GHz. Even the peak maximum at 75C is happening (I think) only because the CPU can push past 65W for brief periods, and/or if only 1 core is being used and the clock speed goes to 4.2GHz. Average sustained CPU temps don't go above 70C.

 

If the P7xxDM-G's default BIOS voltage are similar to the P870DM-G's BIOS voltage, the CPU at stock came more or less heavily overvolted. An undervolt of around -150mv on my machine is enough for a 4.3ghz overclock.

I start XTU everytime I boot up and make sure manually the right profile is applied.

 

Not sure, try disabling the messages that pop everytime you open XTU or similar and reboot.

Yes, that ssd is compatible. If you want to save money you could buy a normal sata ssd. Performance wise is not noticeable if you just use your laptop for entertaiment like gaming or web.

Mine is 6700 normal and I have it at -150mV and stable after 30 min of Witcher 3. Also if you want to reduce noise you can set the fans in the control center to manual. Fans settings at default manual settings my rig average 75 grades a gaming, which is not high and in my opinion worth and quite noticeable. With the speakers I barely heard the fans.

 

I've heard of everything from Dec. 28 through late January. I've also heard that the 4K might be the only option available for the screen. It's up to Sager if they want to bring in the P775DM or the P775DM-1.

 

Here in Norway we have 25% sales tax, but I don`t think you have to pay that when you don`t live in the country.
So if it is something you are considering, it may be worth sending them a email and asking about it

 

Can anyone tell me what their idle / browsing fan noise is like ? I get the fans coming in at maybe 5-15% intermittently every 1-2 mins ...is this normal? Temps are sitting at 35degrees idle. Just wondering as it runs completely silent in between these intermittent bursts. Normally i'd expect the fans to come in as a constant as the load gets heavier.

 

So I got a Sharp 4K monitor from Eurocom, right out of the box it has a dead pixel, and lots of light bleed.

Do you think this amount of light bleed is abnormal? Also do you think they will cover this under warranty?

Thanks

 

Did you install it or it's just plugged in?

If it's just plugged in that's a lot of bleed. If it's installed check the clips on the screen rim not to put too much pressure on the bleeding spots.

Regular screens dead pixels policy is 3 pixels dead or 5 subpixels AFAIK.

You need to check with them though. Maybe you can just return it no questions asked if you are close to purchase / delivery date.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

These are perfect instructions for undervolting (I was looking for the same kind of instructions) but now I'd like a similar instruction set for overclocking via XTU. Can somoeone specify which sliders to adjust AFTER you've finished undervolting (or maybe you should overclock first?) I feel like just undervolting is only completing the tweaking 1/2 way.

Sent from my sweet Galaxy Note 5

 

I don't know that panel, but a light-bleed like this maybe normal for it. The original FHD screens for W230ST where all worse. HTWingNut changed his like 5 times without much difference.

An you are lucky as that's not a dead but stuck pixel, so this may help in getting it back to switch:

http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

 

Cool, I'll have a look at the normal sata ssd as well then.

 

u know, you could show a little effort on your own, just use google and look for skylake overclocking / undervolting guides this forum is to help people, not spoonfeeding them just saying, no offense

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

As jaybee said there is tons of web information and YouTube videos, the concept is the same.Just overclock before under-volting because an under-volt tightly tuned for stock clocks will not like anything above that.

AND remember that this is a desktop processor in a tightly crammed space,so i wouldn't jump to 4.7ghz straight.

Keep an eye out on the P870DM laptops forum as well,these two have lots on similarities and there has been lots of technical discussion.

Edit - I feel that unless your'e into serious bench-marking/number counting/crunching or exceeding the limits of the stock 4.0,maybe for now it's best to just under-volt.Overclocking just because the processor can especially if you don't plan on ripping the performance benefits is ....i dunno.

What i find best is to make use of profiles,when doing high performance task use an XTU performance profile(one you made of course) and for non tasking situation use an under-volt or even under-clock profile(though power saver or balanced takes care of the under-clock portion)

 

Forgot to ask.......has anyone found a decent neoprene case for the 17" version? I know theres a few about but i know there are mainly cheaply made ones that just dont fit great.

Im currently looking at this one
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasic...id=1450955490&sr=1-3&keywords=17"+laptop+case

Had a backpack before and I know there much better suited but I will rarely use it and just carry my laptop in my work bag.

 

Is anyone able to get these machines to hibernate? my p750dm acts like it goes into hibernate but when just turn it back on, nothing resumes. it behaves just like shut down.

 

Thank you @2bad0
Im glad you mentioned the issue of performing overclock prior to undervolting. I'll be sure to Google 6700k overclocking, I guess I was under the impression there were some specific caveats to tweaking our Batman via XTU but I suppose trial and error is a great way to learn anyhow

Sent from my sweet Galaxy Note 5

 

I just flashed the “ CLEVO_8GB_GTX980M-G_DM_OC_PM_v1.1.1” version of prema vbios found on Prema blog. My system no longer boots. So I flash the backup in safe mode. Make sure you have backup of your vBios, or try use the 359.06 driver (I didn't test it)

 

I think prema has not released vbios for the model with gsync.

 

Try 359.06, it work.
361.43 doesn't work...
i had a same problem

prema has released vbios g-sync
look :

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/10708795



http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9867411

 

After flashing prema vbios mod and ( @hmscott) reverting to 359.06 as latest 361.xx were crashing the OS (with premamod installed, they didn't crash before).

A little bench after OC with clevo app. (+125 core / +290 memory)
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/10713788

LE: And a screenshot of 3dmark (latest) results with +135 core / +300 memory.

 

so i skipped installing the realtek audio drivers, and installed the soundblaster drivers, but I think windows still snuck in the realtek drivers.

Is the soundblaster supposed to show up in device manager as the audio device or realtek? Anyways I'm a hard time getting any audio out when i plug in headphones any ideas?

2.) Also what's the story on the finger print reader, windows doesn't seem to detect it when I go to set it up for logging with the fingerprint scanner

 

Did you install the driver? If so, I have no idea. I never used the fingerprint scanner.

 

Realtek is the driver, sounblaster is the driver enhancer,you need to install realtek for soundblaster to function proprly,preferably the realtek driver that came with the DM.Both show up

install the fingerprint driver as well.

Merry Christmas to all ,Happy holidays!

 

^This or you can do what I did and leave the default windows drivers and use some other audio enhancing software. I did this just because you can do a trick to have one program output through a set of speakers and another through a different set. This way I can have background music playing through speakers while playing a game through headphones. Not the most straight forward and stable solution but its a cool little trick. Otherwise I suggest getting the realtek drivers with the soundblaster, it actually sounds good.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone!!