*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Playing chrono trigger on my phone currently. Secret of mama is next. Top two rpg's on my bucket list.

 

Yeah, I just bought a spyder pro4 to calibrate it (and other screens). I hope it's decent enough (it does have nice reviews). I wish screens were factory calibrated. DE2000 shifts of over 10 is just not acceptable in my books. I can't imagine it'd be that much of an extra cost to calibrate them at the factory...

 

They are much like tvs. They do calibrate them to some extent. It is based on a large sample and an average calibration is loaded. The problem is manufacturing tolerances. When you add up the uncertainty of panels backlights etc it can cause large discrepancy between set to set. In order to get more accurate across the line these tolerances would have to be reduced a lot costing the company tons of money and raising the prices for the consumer. A manual calibration takes me about 2 hours on a tv and about the same for a monitor. It will produce much better results than an auto cal used in something like calman 5. The spyder is an ok meter but is cheaply made and will drift a considerable amount over time. I would recommend getting the i1d3 as it is much better made and much more accurate. It is the same architect that the C6 meter is built upon the only difference is an extra correction table. To sum it up you have to trust your meter to be accurate but how do you know if it is or not? The spyder after calibration will leave you with a DE of around 5-7 plus the DE it reads when reran with a truly accurate meter. The i1d3 will be around 3-5 plus the DE it reads (these value are before the meter is profiled). I will say this also. Each meter needs to be profiled to the display that is being calibrated. In order to profile the meter you will need an i1 pro spectro. When I profile my monitor however I can post the correction matrix but it will only work with the i1d3 and may not be perfectly accurate for your monitor but should bring the true white point closer to the desired resulting in a better calibration. This may not be necessary for what you plan to use it for but just wanted to throw in my 2 cents. If you need me to elaborate more or have any question let me know and I'll answer them. Consider it me returning the favor for all the help I have been given on my journey to learning computer tweaking. I'm a self proclaimed AV nerd so TV calibrations was a (expensive) hobby I picked up a couple years ago. Now that I've got most of it figured out I've moved onto computers haha.

 

nice! Didn't know it drifted... I mostly want to remove the bluish cast, move the white point to 6500K, and correct saturation problems...

 

Unfortunately all meters drift. White point balance will take a profile to ensure it is correct but all in all the spyder will give you a much better looking screen I just wanted to point out that it won't be as accurate as you would expect. If it's not too late I highly recommend the i1d3


Also what software do you plan to use for the calibration?

 

the one that comes with the pro. Well, I don't need to calibrate to pro lvl (the screen doesn't allow that anyway), I just wan't reasonable colours with nice details, and a not too cold white point.

 

Download HCFR it is a free program and has all of the controls of the high paid programs. Do NOT use the software it comes with it is crap.

 

noted

 

Did someone managed to install Win 7 x64 with UEFI from an USB device on this machine? I can't get it to find or select my UEFI ready USB device...Apparently the USB needs to be formated with FAT32 for UEFI but my Win 7 ISO has a file bigger than 4GB so Rufus isn't working...

 

I have an i1d3 and it does not take me long to profile. Would you please give a mini HOWTO? I thought HCFR has been rolled int Argyll?

 

You said profile. Im assuming you mean calibrate. Profile the meter is done with a spectrometer. It creates an offset matrix of the red green and blue values for the colormeter. It basically ensures that when the meter says you have a low DE in your color values it actual does. Profiling and calibrations are completely different.

The time it takes to do the calibration will vary greatly with the amount of color checker points you choose to use. (I use a a lot). I also run a specific Skin tone color checker as well. This is arguably the most important thing to run. If your reds are over saturated or slightly off in any manner one may never know but skin tones are called memory colors. Even the untrained eye can see if skin tones are wrong. IE sun burnt look or too pale.
HCFR is a stand alone software with almost all of the features of Calman. minus the ability to display fancy looking graphs. It was compiled buy a guy by the handle of Zoyd and he is extremely helpful if you ever get stuck.
Basically if you are running it on the computer I would advice to take auto measurements. 196 points manualy would take forever.
Open HCFR and click internal generator
select your meter in the drop down and if you have profiled your meter enter the correction matrix. If you have not then select create new and use the default values. Once you have it running the first thing you want to do is greyscale. Grey scale must be done first. DO NOT run CMS until grey scale is finished. THink of the grey scale as the foundation on which you are painting. If the foundation is off no matter what you do the colors will not be accurate. Some will argue that Grey scale is more important than color and I agree.
To run grey scale select grey scale from the drop down menu and click go. I would advice playing in settings and do as many steps as possible. This will ensure minimal error in the interpolated values. After finished with grey scale assuming you know how to make changes and lower the DE you can move on the Color. First do a primary and secondary sweep to establish a baseline. From there you want to do a saturation sweep of each individual color. Make the necessary changes and move on to the next. Try and obtain the lowest DE as you can obviously. Fro grey scale DE should be below .5 for all values. For color that depends on the monitor and the ability to reproduce the color spectrum you have selected. I have not tried to calibrate my monitor yet so Im unsure which spectrum will best suit the monitor but will update when I do. Once you think you have finished the color its time to check how everything looks. run the color checker (there are 5) each one is a little different. Start with CCSG as a baseline. Once all points are measured try moving the saturation and or hue by one click both ways and see how the DE avg of all points are effected. Do this for each color independently. Once you are finished tweaking then grab a beer and enjoy!!! I know I left out a lot of info but I do not know your experience level and you asked for a quick run down hopefully this helps a little bit. If not please ask specific questions and Ill do my best to help. Once I calibrate myself I can update you on more specific Parameters to sue such as the best screen type that applies the most accurate preloaded correction table, the best Color gamut error calculation and what values of DE are the best you can achieve.

 

I havent tried but if you are having issues with loading windows via USB have you tried burning the ISO and just loading windows via an external drive?

 

Cool, I will have to give it a try. I have a Dell U2713H which has the ability to be hardware calibrated. It will be interested to see what the differences are.

 

What would be most interesting is what the automatic calibration results really are. Without calibrating in HCFR take the base measurements of everything and run a color checker. You will be surprised how terrible those auto calibrations are. Better than out of the box on these computers im sure but a high end monitor like the Dell would actually become worse.

 

So my rock solid small fft torture test for 45 minute test is a -80mV dynamic and -151 cache. These value have reduced temps significantly. I'm running stock multipliers with turbo boost on. I'm also running max amps and boost power max set to 100W. I am still hitting significant thermal throttle on max fans (around 60-70%) In an effort to achieve maximum processor speed in real world use is it better to have turbo boost turned off and the core clock increased? If it is can someone explain to me the advantages and disadvantaged of using both ways.

 

are you thermal throttling in normal max load too, or just small fft?

 

Only when I run prime. Using XTU I only hit around 82 degrees





This is my undervolt and temps after running for around 20 minutes using small fft prime


idle temps


halfway through a 5 minute stress test XTU

 

What are your max temps with turbo off? And have you repastwd yet?

 

repasted using IC thermal. Temps seem excellent across the board. Running small fft however I get severe thermal throttle. Ill run a quick test and let you know. When you say turbo off you mean simply putting all multipliers to 40?



Temps after making all multipliers to 40 after a 5 minute run using Prime small fft


2.5 minute stress test in XTU multipliers set to 40

 

I can t see on my phone. I don't get thermal throttle with turbo off. I probably did with prime when I had turbo on and turbo off on the harder part of test but didn't pay attention. Just set thermal throttle on graph for1h or more and use the computer in your real world most intense usage. Prime is extreme on CPU.

 

I hear you there. I have to RMA mine because it isn't making full CPU contact. Let me know how your's turns out.

Turn UEFI off and set it to boot from a bootable USB. Worked for me.

Small FFT and that little throttle is great. Check out the review on notebookcheck, you are getting close to what they got. Doing better than me though.

Edit: Does anyone have a stock prostar bios?

 

9780 first strike score. Best I could get and stay stable. Not bad at all but man I was really hoping to be able to push to get to the 10,000 club.

 

BTW, this is why I say use the business card method to determine contact...

 

Not familiar with the method. I'm guessing put a drop on a business card and lightly press the heat sink on it to test for trueness? If that's the case that's pretty poor. What do you do in that case RMA and play the lottery again? Darn you AJC9988 now I'm going to have to take mine apart and check even though I'm happy with my temps!!!

 

Kyle, have you tried something like XTU + 3DMark? Would be interesting to see how ur temps fare there.

 

No, you use the edge of the card to spread the TIM uniform across it, but very thin. It actually gives decentresults if done right and is similar to why a spatula is included with gelid. The card (I used the one the came with my phone screen guard)is wider than the cpu and doesn't flex as much as the spatula. Once I see the imprint, then I use the pea method. But if done properly, the spread method only yields a fraction of a degree more than pea method, but most people fear air pockets and don't like working it around.

 

I'll give it a run. The only problem though is if I run an XTU stress test and 3D mark how can I monitor GPU temps? I can use blanking on the name software to run a time based avg. for CPU but not sure about GPU.

 

you can log temps with say gpu-z, or msi afterburner, and u can even use msi afterburner to OSD u the CPU/GPU core loads and temps

 

I use RivaTuner Statistic Server and HWInfo64 to push selected stats through RivaTunner as OSD.

 

This.

 

yeah, msi afterburner does basically the exact same thing... it uses rivatuner too

 

But then you will not get the GUID and benefits of UEFI... Don't have an external drive. I installed Win 7 with normal BIOS successfully but can't get it to show the USB stick with UEFI on. On another note @Prema are your BIOS improvements only limited to the normal BIOS or did they apply to the UEFI part too?

Edit:
Ok i got it to find the stick and run the install routine BUT after a restart it says this:
1. Insert your Windows installation disc and restart the computer.
2. Choose your language settings and click next.
3. Click "repair your computer"

file: \efi\microsoft\boot\bcd
status: 0xc000000d
info: an error occurred while attempting to read to boot configuration data.

 

Question on the drivers to install. I am starting off with a couple of Samsung 840 Pro SSDs. If I am not doing RAID do I need to install the Intel RST stuff?

 

My USB was recognized with UEFI enabled. Worked like a champ. 10 minutes tops for the install.

 

Yes if you want to be able to use Intel rapid start technology. Since you bought an SSD I would assume you want the additional speed

Or is that one rapid storage I can't remember. Either way can't hurt.

 

Ok, What exactly does it do to increase the speed? The ports are SATA III and the drives are SATA III so they should be used at full speed?

 

I'm not extremely well versed on this so I'm sure others will have no problem correcting me if I'm wrong but basically you create a partition 1GB larger than the amount of ram you have installed in the computer. When powering off the ram is dumped into the SSD allowing for quicker boot and coming awake from sleep. Again I could be wrong but this is how I always thought of it.

 

So it is just for startup. Don't really care as this thing starts quick enough.

Any ideas about MEI?

 

I was wrong it is for rapid storage. Here read this and decide if you want it or not.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/rapid-storage-technology.html

 

MEI driver info:
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...nterface/9273a27f-b8b9-4989-9dfc-1ed6cc2fea37


If you do not install XTU may not function properly. Simply put yet install it.

Honestly I would install all drivers. I mean why not.

Edit: Google is a powerful tool my friend.

 

So my RMA is sent out. Hopefully it will get there by Monday, ship from them Friday, and be here the following Monday. Then, ordering the gc-extreme, fujipoly pads, and clu tomorrow. when it gets back, going to be nice and cool!

 

These are my temps after running CPU stress test in XTU and Valley at the same time. Snapshot taken 5 minutes in. OC GPU at 180/110/50mV Undervolted CPU at -80 dynamic and -151 cache. Core voltage at 4.35 is 1.15V on the dot.

 

So what all are they changing? Whole new laptop or new heat sink and something else?... forgot what else was wrong with yours..

 

that image is too tiny, cant read a thing

 

Yeah trying to fix it. Taking a snap shot of the detail of Valley behind it produced a large picture. I had to cop out most of it to make it fit. It wont show everything but it will show temps and POwer usage to prove my statements haha

edit Fixed now i think

edit 2: either way if you cant see it the results are as follows. GPU max temp was 78C and the CPU was 97 with up to 12% thermal throttle. This was with Auto fans. (actually they didnt even really turn on surprisingly.

 

still to tiny

 

Wow. Anybody use the touchpad buttons? The only I could think.of that would make it better is half the travel distance. Silent. Buttons dont teeter totter. Consistent. Did I mention silent?

 

Clevo have been pretty good with them, I remember have acer machines and it was like pressing the dice roller in boggle, I got very good at tapping the pad instead.

 

The touchpad buttons on the P770ZM are great, except it's much easier to use tap and two finger tap.

 

Lol I know. But that is just a little known feature. I do use right buttons sometimes when I do use touchpad. Nice to know there is no clickety clack.