*** Official Clevo P770ZM / Sager NP9772 and P770ZM-G / Sager NP9773 Owner's Lounge ***

Maybe one of you guys can answer this but it seems everyone including myself doing stress test in prime 95 hits crazy temps and thermal throttle. Reading on the subject says that prime 95 does not work well with haswell or ivy bridge...since this is true why do you guys recommend using that for stability tests?

@Meaker just figured out you were the rep for powernotebooks haha you guys are awesome if you couldn't tell from my previous post and signature highly recommending you guys...I've got a question that I've been delaying calling in about. When I close my lid and let the computer sleep for about an hour opening the lid no longer wakes the computer. I have to press the power button...once I press the power button it takes about 20 seconds and the login screen for windows 8.1 will appear for maybe a half second and then the computer will shut down. Pressing the power button again and everything is back to normal. I've tried reinstalling drivers and playing with all power management settings as well as installing a fresh copy on the HDD that the machine shipped with as I'm using an 850 pro currently. Nothing changes the behavior. I've been so in love with the machine that I have let it go but I would like to fix it if possible. Any suggestions for something else I could try?

Edit @abol thank you but I understand what it is an what not all I'm saying is it's not a very reasonable test for our case. There are other options available that do the same but do not raise temps as bad keeping the chip well in the safe zone of operation. Let alone I've operated my cpu is an unstable undervolt according to prime for 4 days and never hit blue screen....it seems to be leaving a large amount of a safety factor if you only test with prime.

 

Prime95 is a power virus... running it makes sure that whatever else u throw at the CPU will be able to run.
If you run the much more reasonable blend or largeFFT test u can check for memory/cpu errors.

 

Oh how I miss good CPUs. I BSOD on -25mV at 3.9GHz. I'm seeing if -20mV on core and cache is stable XD. It's only about 2-3W difference, but the small watts can add up =D.

 

I have -100mV on the cache... I rolled pretty high on the silicon lottery with this CPU I think...

 

@superkyle1721 Yeah, well I had similar problems when testing not only CPUs but GPUs. Test with all your workloads before running anything "production"

 

1.124V at 4.4ghz here. So... And yes, prime 95 (newer version 28.x) is an avx power virus. Try x264 loop to stress avx without heat. Really, just use any stress test for each instruction set that doesn't do the heat thing and you'll be fine.

 

I rolled pretty high on my first 4800MQ. This one sucks. The furthest I pushed the old one was -80mV and max OC slider. Stable (though with some slight throttling; didn't know to raise current limit or wattage limit at the time) and it was rock solid stable. I might have been able to go even lower without issue. But when my mobo changed they also changed the CPU and I rolled REAL bad with this one. Hopefully if I ever get a 4910MQ or 4930MX it'll be a good one, because believe me, OCing haswell on stock voltage is a pain in the cow leg. The heat is just freaking ridiculous. I know my machine has very poor CPU cooling compared to the single-GPU models, but still. n=1 gets I think 90 in a stress test on auto fans at 4GHz and -50mV with CLU. I get 90 with max fans, propped up, using CLU just gaming and streaming if I OC. If I run it -50mV and stock 3.5GHz, my CPU doesn't even know what 80 degrees is.

 

Actual voltages people. Not just offsets. They give no reference. See big lebowski...

 

the offset is necessary or you force too much voltage onto the thing. At stock voltage most of the time you use something like 1.08504 volts, but it spikes to 1.192v sometimes. Doesn't matter if OC'd or not.

If I were to force static voltage, I would not likely be able to force say 1.09v

On the -20mV voltage offset I usually hover around 1.07something volts under load.

When I get an amazing heatsink and trick it out with CLU and have a good 4910MQ or something, I'll see what kind of voltage I can force for 100% stability. It'll likely be somewhere around 1.1v or 1.12v for 4.3GHz I'm assuming.

 

Turns out one of my workloads BSODd at -0.85, so dialed it down to -0.80... CPU-Z reports core voltage of 1.139V at this level...

 

He's asking for the _actual_ voltage with the offset... Same offset can produce different _actual_ voltages

 

Yes, I know, but this I simply left at "default". I don't know what "default" is. It sits at the numbers I listed and spikes to the number I listed with ALL voltage settings untouched while on "adaptive" voltage. So I just work with default and voltage offsets. If you happen to know what a 4800MQ's default voltage is, do tell me XD.

 

I'm not saying don't use offsets. We have to. I'm saying tell what the load Vcore is at a given multiplier. Under extraordinary stress like prime 95, we all know it goes up. But the offset value, by itself, doesn't give indicia of how efficient the processor is. Load voltage and multiplier value does. What we do for OC is actually termed Dynamic mode OC and adaptive mode OC. We don't use static OC ever, but we still use Vcore voltage. Telling me your offset is like telling me your penis grows two inches when hard. It means nothing unless I know the starting size.

Edit: personally I don't want to know people's size, etc. The point being made is crude for effect. That is all.

Edit 2: stock or default voltage is the load voltage plus the offset amount. I just need offset value and load vcore, not the stock/default voltage.

 

Well highest load I've ever seen is 1.192 at stock voltage. This does *NOT* happen during synthetic benchmarks. Usually, as I said, it's 1.0850 etc etc.

 

@ajc9988 How do you check the real voltages?

 

While running whatever stress test, you have 3 main options and a couple other options. 1) XTU - select Core Voltage in the window beside the graph by clicking the wrench in that small rectangle (upper right corner of the area) and checking the box for core volts; 2) HWinfo - it gives the voltage; 3) HWmonitor - tells what the voltage is.

Any of these will tell you. And if the idle is higher than the voltage under load, except for the amount accountable through Vdroop (or adjustment of load line calibration), you may have room to further undervolt. There are other factors to be considered, but that should give you the load volts.

 

yeah, it seems that XTU reports the same as CPU-Z in my case, which is 1.139

 

comparing desktop with mobile cpus? cant do that mobile chips are already tightened up voltage-wise, how else would they reach such high clocks in such a small tdp envelope? also, total voltage is important rather than the offset.... with -100 and -25 u could basically be at the exact same voltage depending on ur stock voltage

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

You can compare them with hard voltage, but then there are instruction sets, integrated lanes, efficiency of the memory controller, etc. That will effect performance beyond a straight multiplier/voltage comparison. Not all quad core processors of different types are equal at 4.2ghz. But yeah... Cpu-world is an awesome resource for processor specs.
http://www.cpu-world.com/

 

They achieve the same clocks by not doing so. Under light loads they are similar however under heavier and heavier loads the mobile CPUs will slow down closer and closer to their base clock to stay within their TDP range.

 

Hey guys! I'm new to this community and have been eyeing laptops on XoticPC for quite some time now. After having saved for a while during a college internship, I decided that I could take the hit to my wallet and purchase a laptop, and decided on the NP9772. Here are my specs (all stock Xotic offerings except the wireless card):

1 x Sager NP9772-S (Clevo P770ZM) - [ETA: Mar 17th] () = $2,439.00
XOTIC Gear No XOTIC PC Gear
White Glove Premium Packaging No thanks, standard double boxed packaging is okay with my order
Outside of U.S. Shipping Coverage No Outside of US Shipping Coverage
Build Time Standard Production Time
The XOTIC PC Difference * 24/7 LIFETIME U.S. based technical support
* Extreme QA testing by dedicated technicians
* 24-72 Hour stress testing and benchmarking to ensure top performance and stability
Warranty LIFETIME Ltd Labor* 1 Year Parts Warranty Lifetime 24/7 DOMESTIC Technical Support (Labor through XPC)
Includes FREE Shipping Both Ways for Parts Warranty Repairs (SKU - WTY099)
XOTIC PC Global Anti-Theft Protection No Global Anti-Theft Protection (Options below require an operating system)
Software Bundle (Not Installed) No Software Bundle
Microsoft Office Software - No Microsoft OFFICE Software
Cloud Backup - Unlimited GB Storage No Unlimited GB Cloud Backup
Back Up Software No Back Up Software
Antivirus Software No Antivirus Essentials Software Bundle
ADDITIONAL SOFTWARE None
Operating System No Operating System [Drivers & Utility Software Only (Windows 7 & 8.1)]
OS Redline Boost No Operating System Redline Boost
Notebook Cooler No Notebook Cooler
Mouse Accessories No External Mouse
Keyboard (External) No External Keyboard
Headsets No Headset
Fingerprint Reader Integrated Fingerprint Reader
Port Replicators / Docks / Adapters No Dock/Hub/Adapter
Spare AC Adapter No Spare AC Adapter
Car Adapter No Car Adapter
Standard AC Adapter Standard 230W Sager AC Adapter
Battery Smart Li-ion Battery (8-Cell)
Case No Carrying Case
Sound Card Sound Blaster Compatible 3D Audio - Included
TV Tuner No TV Tuner
Camera Built in 2.0 Megapixel Camera
Memory Card Reader Internal 6-in-1 Card Reader
Wireless Network Accessories No Network Accessory
Wireless Network Sager - Bigfoot Networks Killer™ Dual Band Wireless-AC N1525 [M.2 Chip] - 802.11 AC/A/B/G/N Wireless LAN Module + Bluetooth 4.0 | (2x2) (SKU - WIFIZ1)
Bluetooth Bluetooth Included *With select wireless cards only* (See “Wireless Network” Section Below)
External Hard Drive (Back Up) No Back Up Hard Drive
External USB Optical Drive NO External USB Optical Drive
Raid HDD Raid Settings - OFF
Second Hard Drive None Standard --
Primary Hard Drive 1TB 7200RPM [SATA II - 3GB/s] (SKU - HDDYY1)
mSATA SSD Drive ( Slot 2 ) No M.2 mSATA Drive
mSATA SSD Drive ( Slot 1 ) 512GB Micron M600 M.2 mSATA SSD
mSATA SSD Drive - Drive Option mSATA Slot 1 Preconfigured as an OS Drive ( Operating System – Drive C: ) / mSATA Slot 2 ( Storage Drive )
XOTIC PC / LOOT CRATE No XOTIC PC / LOOT CRATE
mSATA SSD Drive - Configuration Option Non-RAID Storage
Exterior Finish - XOTIC PC Custom Painting (Full Chassis) No Custom Laptop Painting
Exterior Finish - XOTIC PC Custom Painting (A Panel Only) No Custom Laptop Painting
Exterior Finish - XOTIC PC Laser-Sketch™ No Laptop Laser-Sketch™
Exterior Finish - Graphic & Textured Wraps Standard Laptop Finish
Branding Sager Branding
Ram 32GB DDR3 1600MHz [4x8GB] Dual Channel Memory (Windows 7 Home Premium not supported) (SKU - RAM06S)
External Mobile Display No External Mobile Display
External Display Video Adapters No Video Adapter
Copper Cooling Upgrade No Copper Cooling Upgrade
Graphics Video Card NVIDIA® GeForce™ GTX 980M (8.0GB) GDDR5 PCI-Express DX11 (Maxwell) [User Upgradeable] (SKU – GPU03X)
Thermal Compound FREE! - IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU
Processor Sager - 4th Generation Intel® Haswell Core™ i7-4790K Unlocked [Z97 Chipset] (4.0GHz - 4.4GHz, 8MB Intel® Smart Cache) (SKU – SPUZ02)
Monitor Calibration NO Professional Monitor Color Calibration
Dead Pixel Warranty FREE! - 30 Day No Dead Pixel Warranty
Free Shipping FREE!!! – U.S. UPS GROUND SHIPPING (Use Coupon Code "FREESHIP" in Checkout) [U.S. Lower 48 ONLY / Restrictions Apply]
Display 17.3" FHD 16:9 "Matte Type" Super Clear Ultra Bright LED Anti-Glare Screen (1920x1080) (SKU - SSC002)

One question that I have: as I will be very mobile with this laptop (I don't mind the weight at all, already have a pretty hefty HP 17" that I carry around school all day) do I need the 330W AC adapter? Or is the 230W enough? I have the time to update my order if necessary because Sager won't be able to start production until the 17th.

Thanks!

 

1 - Get the 7265ac wireless card
2 - good choice on SSD
3 - If you want to overclock or seriously stress your system, take the 330W PSU instead
4 - You can move around with it like a normal laptop all you want. The battery life is not going to be impressive though, but that's the gaming laptop's call.

 

Is there a reason to take the Intel card over the Bigfoot Killer? Genuinely curious.

Also, definitely not going to mess with the clocks or stress it beyond gaming, so that answers that.

 

The Killer cards have track records of being problematic for users. The 1103 and 1202 and such cards were terrible with connection stability. The new 1525 cards were given a fair shot, but more than a couple users have reported bluetooth not being detected and many users still need to NOT use their driver set for it, instead forcing windows to update the drivers via device manager (while plugged into an ethernet cable, I'd assume). I can't recommend them to people. When Bigfoot wants to make a proper product, they can get recommendations by me.

 

Hm. I guess I could change my order tomorrow and save that $15.

 

I'm also reading all over that the Intel card had BT problems as well, and that there are new drivers out for the Bigfoot card that have improved things. Still not sure what to do. :/

Edit: then again, also reading that the Bigfoot cards are not officially supported by anyone except the laptop manufacturers for drivers. That's a concern.

 

I don't have any problems with Intel card. I have BT mouse, external keyboard and I use only wifi (hmm, I should check my lan port).
edit: I have Intel 7265 AC card.

 

The 7260 had a couple issues on launch, but they fixed those up in a month or two and I've had none of the initial weirdness for over a year now.

 

Alright. Paired with the little support for Bigfoot, your experiences make me feel that I should switch. Thanks guys!! Super stoked on this beast of a machine!

 

7265ac here and no problems whatsoever. same goes for the 7260ac that i had before

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Glad everyone jumped on to help. I'd recommend the 330W for the future. Right now you intend on only stressing it for gaming, but what about a couple years from now? You may update components, processors, or just decide you want to tweak and optimize settings. The extra size of the 330w is not that much, but what you can do with it is amazing. Also, at bare minimum, read up on how to properly undervolt the processor. You can save yourself almost 10 degrees C on heat. If you want to see what tweaking your system can do, check out jaybee83 scores over in the p750zm lounge. There are many others tweaking their systems, but his is nearly complete.

 

I hope the 330W is not too much bigger in size than the 230W!

I will definitely take a look. When I said "never" I guess I meant I don't want to over clock.

 

Can someone explain to me what he means by "don't want to overclock"!?!? I'm not sure I comprehend

 

I cannot speak to the current size of the 230W, but the 330W is not that much larger than the one I had with my P170HM. That's not to say it isn't large.

As to overclocking, I can understand that. But the same concepts used in overclocking can also be used for heat management (in other words, lowering the heat while running at stock, thereby the fans do not kick on much giving quieter operation). If you do not overclock, undervolting the right components properly can reduce power draw as well. But it is dealer's choice...

Edit: @superkyle1721 - some people feel more comfortable with it at stock and very stable. They want it to work when they decide to do something. They get it with the components they want to get the performance they want. This is fine.

But us enthusiasts, that love eeking every last freaking drop of power out of it... yeah...

 

If you are certain you will never get the itch to see what the batman can really do then the 230W should be plenty. As the chips progress if you do plan to upgrade I would imagine that the new chip would be more efficient requiring less draw from the wall. The 330W does allow to future proof yourself from "yourself" meaning if and when you want to OC you can without any power limitation.

Edit: as far as which components are right for you before it is to late I would head over to the first page of P75xZM thread and check out @jaybee88 work as he has some great explanations to help you decide

 

I appreciate the advise guys I hope I didn't disappoint anyone! Haha while over clocking does sound fun (I've tinkered with it before on my desktop) I'd rather not do it here.

 

Checked out that thread. It looks like this laptop is going to be set up just the way that I want it! And I will be using Linux as a dual-boot so I definitely need to switch to the Intel card.

 

Completely understandable. But, to let you know, you are getting one of the few machines capable of overclocking. Also, CPU overclocking on this is a little bit different. You have to do Dynamic Mode Overclocking rather than using Classic/Static voltage overclocking. GPU overclocking is exactly the same and you have LOTS of thermal headroom to work with (meaning 10%+ on FPS) without getting too hot...
But as I said, it is fully up to you what you do with your hardware. I live by this motto and treat my hardware like Bender (Futurama) treats floozy-bots:
"he and I could drive to Vegas pick up some floozy-bots and void their warranties all night long! Whoo!"

 

As long as you know that these machines are DESIGNED for overclocking.

The 4790K is sufficiently more powerful at stock than the other i7 chips to consider it for purchase by itself even without OCing, but in the past the K CPUs were the same speed (2600 and 2600K, 3770 and 3770K, 4770 and 4770K, etc) so people (myself included) have a stigma against people who buy the unlocked chips to almost fight for reasons why they don't want to overclock. For people to then ask... "why did you buy the K then", for example.

but you're lucky, you get away this time

 

I totally understand! honestly, I just like the best of everything that I can afford. I have this thing with technology that I have to scratch the itch of "this is the best, so I need to buy it over the others."

 

Oh I know that itch. You don't acquire the machine in my sig without that itch. XD.

If only i had gotten a 4900MQ or 4930MX though D=

 

Does anyone know where Gamefeet.exe or FlexiKey loads the preset backlight settings from? (like flash, dance, breath, custom, etc.) I'd like to change the way some of them work to get... better results.

 

Additionally, does anyone know how to hardset the color values for the keyboard and lightbar so that you don't need to have the hotkey software launch?

 

I think your not alone with that itch, but as of late I have been fighting it off pal, with this machine for gaming and editing I'm thinking of the most basic config to keep prices down. A i54690k and a 970m 6gb would be a huge upgrade from my 5yo hp but then the tem0ptation for having that i7 hyper threading hits me followed by that itch to upgrade all out to the k series. In reality though the i5k is all I would need and the option to upgrade is available for these books.

How much more power would you have got from those though ? The 4800 is very close to the 4900. At the time the prices are similar to what the current refreshes are now with the 4810 and 4910 and the differences are minimal. Also those 4930/4940 mx chips are not worth the near $1000 extra in my book. Are you not satisfied with your current set up? And for what purpose would you want those cpu's for?

 

The 4800MQ tops out at 3.9GHz on 4 cores via overclocking. The 4900MQ tops out at 4.2GHz on 4 cores via overclocking, and is generally better binned than the 48x0MQ line. The 4910MQ can hit 4.3GHz, which I would be satisfied with. I like CPU power, and with maxwell, I could get it on a single power brick. Instead, I'd need to buy a whole new CPU now, and I know not of many people who'd want a bottom-bin 4800MQ.

 

3.9ghz on all 4 cores is a nice balance for this system in terms of heat and performance to be fair.

 

Indeed it is, but my end goal would be the EM heatsink setup, which could handle a much higher load.

 

My Documents/ComboKey/Profile.xml

Edit: You will have to open flexikey/gamefeet/hotkey (whatever the hell you want to call it) to make the changes happen.
Edit2: I see you meant to do it without having to open the program.. you can try changing the values here:
open regedit and navigate to:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER/Software/hotkey/LEDKB
colors are represented as strings with underscores seperating RGB values, IE: 255_0_0 = Red

 

thats a very nice find zach, thx for that! ill add it to the batcave OP right away

 

Until we talk about keyboard colors, etc.
Have you tried Backlight Controller with LightFX from ClevoMods ? It doesn't work for me with Batman but looks interesting.