@Prema
This is the second G-Sync 980m that nit correct flash with your vbios.
Are there diffrent Versions of the G-Sync Card/Bios as you have?
Here is my orig. vbios from the 980m-Gsync (P771ZM-G) extractet with GPU-Z
Can you see diffrents to your version?
I will flash your vbios but at the moment i have some fear after the reporting of the wrong flashs![]()
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Attached Files:
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We just fixed his card together...
The reason was indeed a certain system BIOS/EC/board combination which did an additional MXM ID check.
I have just made a change to the g-sync vBIOS Mod on my blog in order to make it universally compatible with all versions. (only GTX980M-G for now. Will patch the other two later today).
Edit: All 3 are patched now!
ENJOY!
Last edited: Sep 12, 2015Mr Najsman, TomJGX, i_pk_pjers_i and 5 others like this. -
Ah ok,
than i´m lucky that haven´t flashed the Vbios before
Now i can flash your vbios without any problem?
Use and old orig. 1.03.02 Clevo G-sync Bios -
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Ok,
here is your new Version of 980m-G?
https://biosmods.wordpress.com/gtx9-g/
I ask because the Files in the new 980m-g Vbios are from 03.09.15 (G98MPMOC.rom) and nvflash.exe from 16.08.15
Or is this the old vbios on your page? -
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ok thanks,
will flash the new (current) Version later the day
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Small update
I have made a Prime95 Listrun with 4,7Ghz.
Over 4,7Ghz is not possible with Prime95 because the small FFT´s (8K , 12K) are burning the CPU.
Temps are ok but the CPU need alot of Power over 115W.
For the 4,7Ghz Prime95 setup i have to set most Voltage in XTU from auto to manuel.
It´s better ffor OC because on auto the Voltage are mostly too high and not good.
Vcore = 1,248V
Input Voltage = 1,850V
Cache Voltage = 1,060V
IO Voltage Analog = +15V
IO Voltage Digital = +10V
With Prime and the right FFT´s you can look what Voltages is need for the right settings.
1344K in Prime = Vcore Voltage
448K = Input Voltage
512-576K = Cache Voltage
672K = IO Voltagei_pk_pjers_i, ajc9988 and hmscott like this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
I wonder how the VRMs are holding up with those sorts of clocks, lowering the overall heatsink temps will help but it could be voltage stability holding you back.
ajc9988 likes this. -
4,7Ghz is for me the max testing with Prime95. Thats enough for me
Normaly i use 4,0Ghz because of the very good Temps. And if i need power are 4,5Ghz more as enough.
btw.
I flashed @Prema Vbios and testet some thinks
Firestrike 10157 Points with CPU @ 4,5Ghz and GPU settings see Image.
With CPU @4,0GHz i have 9976 Points.
The Temps are with max Fan and watercooling. (GPU 46c and CPU 63c)
At the moment i will not give more Voltage on the GPU because i don´t know what´s the max before i damage the GPU
Prema likes this. -
You surely have lots of headroom in ram-clocks.
+500 Mhz may very well be the minimum. -
For benching voltage doesn't really matter as long as your PSU can feed it and it can be cooled (below 93c).
Worst case instability will result in a black screen and requires a power cycle.
We have seen these mobile chips running 1500Mhz+...so with your watercooling you can certainly have some fun.
As for your CPU there are some settings in the Mod BIOS Performane Tuning section which aren't available in XTU and should help to squeeze the last 200Mhz out of the chip on its path to 5Ghz.
Last edited: Sep 13, 2015 -
I wonder how that is possible. My 970m does not go beyond +200 MHz GPU. And it's entirely unimpressed of me rising voltage. Makes no difference if no additional voltage is given or the maximum. No difference... I guess I had some bad luck in the silicon lottery.
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With these Maxwell cards the vRAM stability takes a hit the higher we OC the core.
So it helps to first only OC the core to find its maximum stable frequency, drop it like 30-50Mhz and only then add any vRAM OC to the equation. -
DaveFromGameaVision Notebook Consultant
Got some CLU on the way and planning on a delid this week for my 4790K, anybody want me to take some pics? Also I'm thinking about cutting out some of the plastic around the fans to let some more air in, has anybody done that?
Bullrun likes this. -
I'd like to see some pics!
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DaveFromGameaVision Notebook Consultant
You got it. I've got the bottom panel marked for cutting as well, I will post some before and after temps/pics for that as well as the CLU.
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Hello guys, I'm going to get my Np9773 tomorrow and I am quite a noobie in this field. My question is, can I stream and play games like CSGO with this setup for a long time? Because I am so afraid of melting my CPU. Certainly I can undervolt but it would decrease my CPU performance. Any advice would help me immensely. Thank you
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Undervolting while leaving the clocks the same does not lower performance and actually increases it under a TDP limited scenario.
Yes you can stream and play CS:GO, you can stream and play battlefield 4 if you like too.Tsubalachi, ajc9988, Mr Najsman and 1 other person like this. -
do you have a TV screen or Display at hand, don't know how the Alienware reacts but using a 60hz screen should work with the Intel GPU right?
My Problem
HELP, anybody know how to reflash the EDID to the Chi Mei Panel? Dunno why but i just found out, that my EDID is gone after upgrading the nV drivers in W10, weird fact is i can't get into BIOS anymore with that screen, via HDMI i can still can enter it, so everything outside of Windows with nvidia Drivers installed i get no screen it seems. Just rolled back to W8.1 and extracted the EDID from registry which was "MONITOR\CMO1720" and now is "MONITOR\Default_Monitor". CMO1720 EDID is there in the Registry, for the Default_Monitor is actually a "BAD_EDID" entry. Looks like the Alienware Bug is somewhat here too i guess
ajc9988 likes this. -
@Prema
Thanks for your Info.
I think i have to buy the 330W PSU first
Prema has fixed the Problem with DaveFromGameaVision together
And with your Problem ask @t456 in the Alienware-Forum
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...levo-lcd-panels.779449/page-155#post-10090089
He is the right Guy for this
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Oh okay didn't know Prema fixed it with him, was the last post according to my browser, looks like forum still bugs out sometimes
And thx for the headsup, at least i can do somewhat everything in Windows itself, and not beeping like the guys in the AW forums, but still i actually don't know what the trigger is/was. -
That is how mine started before the 13 beep non-boot!
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shat, why me
everything worked so flawless, but actually a good thing i found out about this by accident
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Ahhh thank you so much. I can even connect an external monitor and it'd be a piece of cake right? Just gotta make sure I have a cooling pad. Unlike others I can't DIY a water cooling system.
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It took a couple weeks before that happened. Just at the time, I didn't know what was going on. They hadn't tracked it to the edid yet. Work to see if you can correct the edid corruption. If so, we will have a stop gap until the corruption source is discovered. Otherwise, M$ has failed us greatly.
Edit: also make sure to get to that other thread and let them know!!! -
No Problem here with the Forum
This is wat Prema write.
And with your broken display.
You have used Win10 with new NV drivers, somehow it´s trigger something in Bios and overwrite the edid.
As i say, only @t456 can help or you must resend your Book to your reseller (RMA).
And never using Win10 at the moment
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You can connect up to three external monitors iirc.
If you don´t have a cooling pad prop the back up a bit with whatever you have, anything to raise it 1-2 cm. -
You, definitely, don't need to water cool. Chrack is special!
As Meaker said, undervolt. Stress test your undervolt for stability. A lot of the homework has been done in this thread and the P750ZM thread, check the OP, tons of good stuff. There are some very helpful people here. Don't forget (Fn+1) gives you max fans. That alone will drop temps significantly. Good idea to use that in heavy workloads, gaming and stress testing. These machines are powerhouses. The CPU is unlocked and meant to be tweaked. The heat can be easily managed. Learn how.
Chrack likes this. -
As @Bullrun said,
you don´t need the watercooling.
For good temps you can do/check some things like...
- Use good TIM like Gelid GC Extreme
- check Heatsink have good contact to Heatspreader
- laping Heatspreader and Heatsink (loose Waranty of CPU)
- delided the CPU (give you good lower Temps, but loose Waranty of CPU)
- perhaps the Screw Mod
- Undervolt the CPU (i need for 4,5Ghz -60mv than normal)
Lock my Signature (Aircooling)
These are my temps with the Mods
Bullrun likes this. -
That's right, but i didn't OC the RAM for testing and it still isnt possible to increase the GPU-Core Speed more than 200 MHz with additional voltage, which is the same than without overvolting.
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My 970m did 190-190 without more voltage. Happens...
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And what did you get with more voltage, @ajc9988 ?
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Can you please post pictures while carrying out the procedure and some steps? Hell if you could do a video would be epic
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
What method do you intend to use? -
DaveFromGameaVision Notebook Consultant
Vice method, I haven't seen any videos for the diagonal method, where you use one edge of the ihs and one edge of the actual chip. My buddy is gonna help me edit a video together so we will see how it goes.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
May want to preface the video that for skylake based systems in the future that method won't work any more.
ajc9988 likes this. -
What's different with skylake? Did they go to solder?
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The package is much thinner so it can crack more easily. However there are no more surface mount parts near the core so the other methods are safer now.
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Hello guys, so i received my Np9773-s with 330w adapter, turned out whenever i plugged it into an outlet my room would have an electricity overload I don't know what to do, should I get an 230w adapter instead? It's killing me softly
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Support.1@XOTIC PC Company Representative
Do you have a lot of other items plugged in, in the same room or maybe other rooms, that you could unplug and try again? Is it happening on all outlets or in other rooms? You could try 230w, but I would try to figure out what is causing that, to try to avoid it from happening again.
ajc9988 likes this. -
I unplugged Xbox one and TV just to try it out, and it didn't work as well, and I don't have the other room to test because it belongs to my roommate... I guess I will try to get an adaptor or maybe just go for 230w.
It only shut my room down. Other facilities work just fine.Last edited: Sep 15, 2015 -
A 330W adapter does not always use 330W. If you get an overload (at low cpu/gpu loads) just because of plugging in it may just be defective.
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U meant the outlet is damaged or the adapter? I tried two outlets in my room and both just shut my room down. One of the outlets was the one that I had Xbox one plugged in.
So basically what happened was I plugged my charger in and after 1 second the whole room, my room, was powered off, but other rooms are fine.
If the charger is defective, then I have to send everything back to Xotic PC right? Great, gonna wait for another 2 weeks. XoticPC even said its 24 hours tech support and no one's even answering the phone. Anyway, thank you guys for the help! I really appreciate it.Last edited: Sep 15, 2015 -
Have you plugged it in without the machine connected, just the adapter? Is it tripping a circuit breaker for your room when you lost power?
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Yes, that. When connecting any adapter first off, there's a very short burst of inrush current:
This lasts less than a second, but if your fuse* circuit breaker is overly sensitive then it can be triggered by this peak load. Try the adapter in a different house/location and, if that works, buy a better quality fuse* circuit breaker.
*nomenclature ...Last edited: Sep 15, 2015 -
Ok looks like, my EDID is fixed ..... for a while.
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How can I get a new fuse when my apartment is using circuit breaker. Aren't they different? I'll make sure I try it in another room some how. Would getting 230w adapter solve this problem as well?
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DaveFromGameaVision Notebook Consultant
In my opinion it sounds like your charger is bad, I have never seen a non-faulty charger cause a circuit breaker to turn off. I'd say contact Xotic and see if they will ship another charger to you, there is no reason you should have to ship the entire laptop back just for a faulty charger. If the new one works ship the old one back to them.Tsubalachi likes this. -
I already sent them an email and voice mail they are neglecting both. This doesn't make sense tho, because my laptop came in charged, if they used my charger to charge it, why wouldn't it work.... Hum..
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