*** Official Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172) WINGMAN 2.0/BATMAN 3.0 Lounge ***

OMG how is the CMOS battery soldered. WTH ?!
They are completely out of their mind, I can't even imagine this blasphemy, CMOS soldering INSANE !!

Even Alienware BGA lineup doesn't do that.

 

How can such a high performance socketed machine have the CMOS battery soldered? This is terrible news and having me write off the P775. I respect those who are familiar enough with soldering but such should never be needed on a machine of this tier.

In light of these news, does anyone have a list of non-BGA machines that have soldered batteries?

 

Have never heard of this before. Can this be true @Georgel ? Are you are hundred percent sure? @Donald@HIDevolution @Eurocom Support

 

Guys, you can all breathe now, it is not soldered Take a look on page 22
http://www.e-weekly.co.uk/download/RnD/DRIVERS/CLEVO/P7x0DM3/P775DM3_ESM.pdf

The battery is cr2032w which has a connector.

 

CrApple or Alienware could be perverse enough to solder CMOS battery firmly on the MB... Because they prefer everything soldered onto the motherboard as You can see. Maybe their next feature besides soldered ram? LOL

 

Dell sure made it hard to reach the coin cell since the AW 2013 models ;-)

 

I know. You only needed to remove absolutely everything in the machine. Might say.. I've done it a few times And I still have my Aw17 "Elitist". The last decent 17" machine from Dell

 

That's good news, I hope so too that Volta will work with it

 

Wow, that would have been TERRIBLE if it was soldered. That was scary and I don't even have a DM2/3.

 

It has a connector doesn't mean that pulling that connector is easy. I didn't know it had a connector, but I don't see an easy way to take it out or put it back on.

It would be cool to be able to take that battery out easier.

I'm contemplating installing XTU instead of TS or CCC.

 

Wait, why install XTU instead of TS? TS wouldn't require a CMOS reset, XTU and CCC would be much more likely to require a CMOS reset (especially XTU).

 

The more I analyse the problem, the more it seems like the connector is really hard to pull and I can't do a CMOS reset so easily...

Oh, the answer is simple. I already had CCC installed and TS.

My only gripe is that it might be more silent / work better with XTU.

TS installed by @Phoenix was fully stable, but windows was not, due to some left over files from the last install.

the install I'm running right now seems stable, but I got to run more tests. I haven't installed CCC or anything right now, temps are good, speed is 4.0 GHz, only gripe is that there are some video driver issues, or I'm going crazy from all the testing and installing.

I don't bench with general benches but with madVR, and the results aren't 100% stable from driver to driver...

Also, I got a nasty error. I reinstalled nvidia driver using DDU, and uninstalled a thing named WinCap - whatever this was. My steam folder and all program folders outside of program files folder were gone. And I can't install photoshop 64 bit, it gives an error but the error log file is not readable... So I guess I'll try another ISO of win10 or give up to @hmscott and install windows 8.1 and be done with it.

 

The difference between WinCrap 8.1 and WinGoofs 10 isn't that much! You could easily go with 8.1.

But yeah, a fresh install sounds good, without CCC and XTU!

 

I don't have the p775dm3, but you can use a screw driver to remove the connector. Something like this
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/aldrich/z526371?lang=en&region=SG
Do not pull it though and use the flat head one The procedure should be the same as detaching the keyboard ribbon cables from the motherboard.

edit: I think your method is faster

True, just imagine what would happen if the cmos battery gets drained.

 

Yes, the batteries are not soldered! wrapped and sometimes stuck down will be the closest to that you get.

 

We should make a guide on what is the order to install the drivers and how.

Seems that installing the dirvers in a different orders heavily affects system stability for me.

 

Did you get yours, mate? Where did you buy? What's the config and price?

 

Very good to hear. Although, it would be a nice improvement for laptops to all use conventional CR2032 batteries without the plastic wrap and connector for both easier replacing as well as being a tenth of a price. It's not that they're expensive to begin with but the plastic wrap plus connector brings no real advantages since it's the same battery providing the same amount of power.

 

In this order:

UEFI has to be activated!

01 Chipset.zip
02 VGA
03 Lan
04 Cardreader
05 Touchpad
06 Airplane
07 Hotkey
08 IME
09 TBT
10 Audio
11 IRST
12 WLAN
13 Fingerprint
14 SBX
15 RAID

Happy installing!

 

But it takes up PCB space.

 

Fair enough, but 17" machines should be excluded from that given portability isn't their main focus, especially on user serviceable machines like DTR's.

 

And the Newer 17 inches Aw gamingbooks have only 2 ram slots. I think Clevo owners should be happy as it is Everything could be much worse I can live with a cmos battery who is connected to the motherboard with a cable/connector to saving place on PCB!!

 

It could always get worse but the community should continue trying to get its voice heard

It really doesn't make much sense for gaming laptops (which by definition require enough grunt to drive games that are demanding applications, regardless of the current state of optimization) to have just two RAM slots unless said machines are built with planned obsolescence in mind (long gone are the days when Alienware had properly recommendable machines).

I'm still waiting for laptop manufacturers to start experimenting with alternate cooling solutions. I mean, if that sort of thing is being done on handheld devices, it does puzzle me as to why that hasn't been done for computers yet. Next thing on the wishlist would be a truly unified dock standard with the dock not being a bare necessity for the machine to work to its integrated (as in, what comes inside the laptop) hardware's full performance extent (looking at you, GX800).

 

Thank you!

Sadly, it seems that installing Chipset afer VGA is more stable for me.

Anyone knows how to solve pops in speakers? Reinstalling chipset or audio driver didn't do much

Also, @iunlock , do you see 40W as being the minimum power consumption for 1080, or something is wrong for me? (using HWinfo)

 

Crackling noise from speakers

Try decreasing the voltage offset which I set for you from -140mV down to -90mV

 

It's at 0 right now ant there still are pops

 

Please tell me the version of your Realtek Audio Driver as it appears in the Control Panel > Programs & Features.

Thank you for your co-operation Mr. Georgel

 

Might as well leave it here too.

If anyone doesn't install CCC, this is what seems to solve the problem








What is the minimum power consumption normal for the GPU?

I keep seeing 40W minimum power consumption with no idea why.

 

40 is normal when doing light GPU-accelerated tasks such as web browsing.

 

Does anyone know what the standard thickness of the heatpads are on this machine?

Had a suggestion to replace these with slightly thinner ones to improve temperatures. It might not work but its worth a go at least!

 

Is it overheating that badly?

 

Not really. I am running at about 80 on both the CPU and GPU under load (gaming) but I would feel more comfortable if I could drop this to low 70's.

 

Smaller heatpipes would normally reduce thermal transfer.

 

Heat pads, not heat pipes.

 

Whoops, my mistake, I usually like to take the card out, remove the pads and then sit the card on the bare heatsink and see if there is room for improvement.

 

Well carried out the delid procedure on my 6700k last night.

Initially upon first boot the computer didn't post and I thought it was time for a new CPU. Luckily a quick clean of the underside returned functionality.

Temps haven't improved a massive amount but I only had AS5 to hand. Got some Grizzly Kryonaught turning up today so hopefully that'll make a noticeable difference.

 

To clarify, you used AS5 between the IHS and the die? Or did you not want to use LM for the die-HS interface?

 

Correct, ive used AS5 between the two for now, until my thermal grizzly turns up.

Ive left the heat spreader floating so may try LM in the future.

 

That's barely going to net you any decrease in temps at all. Having two layers of thermal paste between the die and heat sink is effectively doubling the thickness and halving the thermal conductivity. LM between the die and IHS is practically risk-free if you take appropriate precautions and offers a substantial improvement in temps.

 

Will get some LM ordered then!

 

Keep us posted please about the temp difference. Cheers!

 

Of course.

CLU ordered and should be here tomorrow morning. All being well, update tomorrow evening.

 

Would have been nice to see CLU results before delid

 

Well its got AC5 on it now so can do a comparison between the two.

 

Quick advice: On a thick wooden desk, without anything to raise the machine from the surface, so standing on it's rubber feet, the speakers are considerably good.

EDIT: With latest XTU CCC installed, and a -70mV from BIOS, the system is cool enough to do the worst benchmark and to play Mirror's edge Catalyst, so... it was made to stay on the top of a table safely, this is why the CCC has such aggressive fan profiles.

 

A hard flat surface with the back feet raised by bottle cap sized objects is an excellent way to maximize cooling performance.

 

That surely will improve cooling, but I was just playing without anything, just the laptop on a wooden table - 75C on GPU and 85C on CPU - I consider those scores GOLDEN given the conditions. And the sound is really sweet like this.

 

https://biosmods.wordpress.com/2015/10/21/sky-x9/5/

 

Good to hear

 

Guys, if you have stuff you need to have Clevo address with your Skylake beast, be sure to post about it here:

Feedback to Clevo R&D Team: What's missing or broken in your Skylake laptops?