*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

does anyone have issues with G-sync missing on their KM-G machine with FHD IPS screen?

 

Did some work on my X9E3 i.e P870KM1

started with removing the backplate (which was tricky, at first)


Then finding the little button to push the keyboard out (it has magnets, but thier strong neodymium earth magnets or something)



I like the fact it has 2 NVMe but which laptops don't have this today ?

Here is a better picture of under the keyboard :


Moving on to the CPU for delidding I notice there are a bunch of coils and components for the CPU stability which should help OC's, anyways interesting find :

There seems to be this metal copper plate that was also stuck on via thermal paste, never seen that before.
There was some yellow odd stuff all over the CPU as well, and it looked like it was pasted 2-3 times, like again and again...
My stock temps were horrible so I do not wish to share them, but lets hope for the best afterwards.

To some credit, the paste was decently thin, and not overly thick, some extra care and attention was put into these at least, even if I am redoing them.
(Like I've seen unforgivable paste jobs and this was ok.)


Now to see this copper plate :


How odd, seems like it was added to give some extra thickness while using copper as the thermal conductor for the most of it.
I proceeded to cleaning that stuff up:

cleaning then roughing and scrubbing to make it really clean...


then of course some polishing:


Then I applied liquid metal to both sides and super glue to the tips or edges in 4 corners and stuck it back :


clean it and buff it to a mirror shine :


7700K after delidding with the tool :


Polishing the IHS to a mirror shine as well :


After Liquid metal (I used Grizzly Conductonaut)


and now just waiting for it to re-lid (Had a guy once ask "is relidding a thing now ??" YES! yes it is my friends !)



stay tuned for more stuff after.
If anyone wants any pictures on the breakdown or "how-to's" or has some questions before buying, even if not buying from me directly, feel free to ask or PM me.
I'm here because I love this stuff and wish to share all my expereinces with this laptop so anyone wishing to fork over the thousands it costs knows what they are getting into.

This post is by no means my review or any such thing, but if you want my first impression, I woulds say this laptop is build with quality, they have improved upon thier build year after year and its coming together quality wise like some older Martial brands were known for back in the day before corporate interests took over.

 

That is a copper shim. And the paste used seems like ICD. Not a good Idea to use ICD as a TIM on bother sides. Only pastes recommended to use that way are CLU/Conductonaut or Kryonaut. The latter wont be as good as LM, but way better than ICD any day.
Also not a good idea to super glue the copper shim back on.
The LM can easily hold it there.

Also for even better temps you can check if your bracket is flat or not and based off of that you can remove the C-Clips and then get rid of the shim all together and use LM directly on the IHS. And reduce the thermal pad thickness on the CPU heat sink to 0.5mm and 1.5mm

 

True, but might as well use it if you got it.

This is first time I personally had a laptop with it.

 

Okay so I went nuts on the mirror shiny :

 

The moment you apply liquid metal TIM, that finish will go away until you sand it again.

 

CPU done :

grizzly Kryo TIM.

Then moving on to the GPU :


For whatever reason the thermal pads are super tough and brittle and dry and too thick - if the pads epand twice the sise when under pressure, then they might be too thick. thats extra stress on a component that might fail oneday because of it.


I removed this so carefully too but look how oddly thick this is.

Had I this been someone's laptop they purchased, OEM directly, and they go to repaste oneday (maintenance, lets say) they would then be with broken pads until they purchased more, this happens to many people, because they do not easily find thermal pads or know that they should be changed most the time when repasting.

I will replace whats damaged in this case with grizzly pads.

Replaced the pads / Grizzly pads, and grizzly thermal paste :


heatsink mirror :


And put it all back together, and now to do some tests.

 

I apply the TIM under it, to the otherside which is making contact with the heatsink. This side makes contact with the IHS, which we will use grizzly Kryo on.

the otherside though is also mirrored for consistency, obviously.

but you have to admit, it was a pretty good mirror shine there, not that it started bad, but its gets more difficult the shinier it becomes..

 

TIN ?

 

haha didn;t catch that until now, TY

 

Oh phew. I was like wait what!?

But yeah getting a mirror finish really takes quite a but of time and effort.

How do you find these temps -

Spoiler

But yeah, If the processor is delidded for normal clock speeds Kryonaut will help quite a bit. But i did not have good results when i tried Heat sink -> Liquid Metal -> Copper Shim -> Kryonaut -> IHS.

 

Does lapping improve temps by any significant margin for liquid metal?

 

Desktops yes , by a few degrees. Laptops, not so much. Unless the contact was dog **** beforehand because of the surface being all over the place.

 

@Meaker@Sager @XMG @ John@OBSIDIAN-PC? @Prema ?

EDIT: installed i5 6600k + 1080 gtx single

 

how does your TIM print/mark looks after removing the HS on the VGA?

 

seems Gync does not work on p870km-g with Skylake CPUs!!!

 

Really good temps. Does it stays at those temps after 15 minutes? Noticed it the test ran for 3x seconds.
What undervolt setting u using for 4.8?

 

That is 31 Mins , not seconds.
And that is at a static voltage of 1.2V (had to set something like 1.160V)

 

It's getting really good, to keep up with progress, it's finally getting ready! : D

 

Generally the smoother it is, the better, like if two copper plates mirrored and LM pasted, should be even thinner then normal. The downside is, the LM basically squirts out like crazy if it makes perfect contact, like bar of soap in the hands in the shower kind of slippery

 

Lol... Something you want to tell us bro

 

Is that with Max fans? Can you try with Overclock fan profile?

 

Speak with your reseller regarding the BIOS.

 

I get it directly from Clevo, Taiwan

 

Hey guys, looks like I'm going to need your help again!



I ran AIDA64 for about 10 minutes after the repaste. I'm getting the temps spiking at 100C. This is with the fan speeds set to maximum. I repasted using 3 different thermal compounds. Once with IC Diamond (which is this screen shot), Arctic Silver, and Antec thermal compound. All three delivered same results. I have tried spreading the compound myself, pea method, rice method, and the x method. Every time i took the heat sink off it looked like it was properly covering the entire lid on the cpu. I have no idea what else to try.

 

delid
out of all the three paste ic diamond is the best

but ic diamond is absolute trash in comparison to kryonaut, GC extreme, and liquid metal paste

 

but there is no way that those temperatures are normal for a brand new system, right?

 

this is brand new out of box?

I'm surprised that you haven't had a thermal shutdown yet

 

1.This voltage is too much for 4.4ghz.
2.Yes,you need delid and use liquid metal everywhere.
3.Check thermal pads CPU heatsink, sometimes they are thick and does not make good contact.

 

that is how my PC came i didnt touch the voltage/clock speeds at all and also as far as the thermal pads, do you mean the ones that are to the left of the cpu?

 

The other problem is AIDA use more voltage for bench 1.23v.Wprime and cinebench use 1.18v.(Sorry for my English I try to help)
P870DM 6700k

 

OOOps you are right... Wow those are great temps. I am getting my p870km1 hopefully by friday. Cant wait to start tweaking that thing. Hoping to get close to your temperatures

 

Yes Max fans. And sorry i dont use Clevo Control Centre to be able to test out the OC profile.

Thats why gotta use a super thin layer, unlike traditional TIM's.

 

A thin sheet of plasic to stop flow around the edge can work to seal it in, has to be real thin though and not melt up to around 120C.

 

Got my Everki Titan today. Fits like a glove on my laptop and will be a lot less cramped when I get all of my stuff in it from my old bag.

 

Yeah, space is not a problem for the Titan backpack

 

After playing a game for around 30-50min the laptops fan suddenly spikes and becomes noisy even though the whole 30min its complete fine and almost silent, what could be wrong ? or is it normal for it to suddenly overheat after and spike up the fan speed ?

 

Can you provide a graph of it happening? It's likely you crossed a temperature threshold onto high speed.

 

What program do i use to get the graph?

 

MSI afterburner is a good one.

 

Here is idle:


heres the spike (while playing mirrors edge catalyst) :

 

the temps keep going up by time and the fan suddenly speeds up when it hit +95C which generates alot of noise.

Is it normal for it to reach those temps while gaming?:/

 

I have mine set at 4.4GHz with -150mV offset and I hit 60-70C while playing Ghost Recon: Wildlands just yesterday. I can hit those temps that you have if I'm stressing testing and upping the clock speed and volts but never while gaming. My fans are also not blasting which is surprising; I also user the Overclock fan profile in CCC.

 

So far i have tried tomb raider and mirrors edge and both hit the cpu to 100 suddenly whcih causes the fans to go crazy...

 

Have you tried undervolting and underclocking a bit? I see you're at 4.7GHz and I was too at one point but it got hot at like 85C but nothing like you. Use ThrottleStop and see what results you get. Start at -150mV offset and 4.4GHz.

 

Well im not good with oveclocking ... is it possible for u to share an XTU profile so i can import it and see ehat happens.
Or is that a bad idea?

 

I don't have one to share. I'm not big on overclocking or trying to push my laptops limits. Just download ThrottleStop, open it, click on FIVR, adjust all the core clocks to 44, set the cache and core offset to -150, and test it for stability. I followed this by @Mr. Fox to get a general idea of what I needed to do.

 

I cant find cache voltage? And core is offest voltage?

 

Watch the video and you'll see everything you need to see. I don't have any pictures with me as I'm not on my machine to take one. Look around the overclock owners thread and you're bound to find some there too.