*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

Well, its kinda hard to tell the difference watching a video of a simulated 120hz on a 60hz screen, hahaha.

NBA 2k, Assassin's creed won't be effected by the 60hz cap. Dishonored 2, maybe, being an FP game. But if you've never experienced anything higher than 60hz, you won't feel the need to try anything higher. But going from 1080 screen to the 4k, with Adobe RGB essentially all covered, games will look a lot more lively. I know Starcraft 2 looks so much brighter and more alive with this 4k screen.

 

Generally videos are capped to almost 24-60 fps
So watching them in a higher refresh rate than that is of no use

 

If you never tried 120Hz; then stick to 60Hz. Once you game at 120Hz G-sync you will want more Hz and you will be hooked on it like an addiction lol. I can tell the difference from 60hz to 85hz on Windows desktop, just by moving a minimised application around the screen. I can also tell between 144Hz and 240Hz. I can not tell the difference between 144Hz and 165Hz though. Anything over 144Hz in slight increments is hard to distinguish. But as soon as jump to 240Hz it's unbelievable! Especially on CS:GO. I wish Clevo would go past 120hz soon on 2.5K (3K) or 4K screens.
Also take note: Nvidia ULMB only works above 85Hz. And ULMB looks great on racing games.

 

Which one will last longer ?? the QHD 120 or 4K, since i want to keep my laptop for at least 3 years.

 

Depends what your goal is, if you want to max everything out, then probably a QHD one as you're not pushing out as many pixels. And your cards should have no problem pushing out beyond 60hz on that screen, so you'll still see the benefits of a higher refresh rate. You're probably going to have to sacrifice more bells and whistles to keep games in the future to run at 4k and 60 fps.

 

4K is still a lot harder than 1440p, so it will be a lot harder to drive in the future.

 

For P870KM1-G users reference:
{3rd Liquid Metal prep on CPU & GPU}
OOhh 86c max peak @89.5watt on the CPU with just over 1+ hour of gameplay on Star Wars Battlefront and 3+ hour system uptime (see bottom right hand corner of the HWiNFO64 program). This has beaten the last record of 80c @84.5watt 2nd prep with Mirror's Edge Catalyst. Slave GPU kicked up a bit too on this run ???

All results on 7860x1440p gaming with fans set to "Full" when gaming and then fans set to "Overclock" while using desktop. Also 4th 1080P accessories screen enabled

Star Wars Battlefront 1+ hour Prep#3
BIOS: Stock Clevo Bios
CPU Max Temp (4.5Ghz 7700K): 86c
Max CPU Power Package: 89.5 Watts
CPU Under-Volt: -70mv
GPU (1080 Stock) Master Max Temp: 81C
GPU (1080 Stock) Slave Max Temp: 82C
Samsung 960 M.2 SSD Max Temp: 73c

VS

Mirror's Edge Catalyst 2+ hours Prep#2
BIOS: Stock Clevo Bios
CPU Max Temp (4.5Ghz 7700K): 80c
Max CPU Power Package: 84.5 Watts
CPU Under-Volt: -70mv
GPU (1080 Stock) Master Max Temp: 81C
GPU (1080 Stock) Slave Max Temp: 75C
Samsung 960 M.2 SSD Max Temp: 80c

 

New 1080 just installed, LM applied... And she lives! The anxiousness of that first turn on lol. Also @Mr. Fox I tried the thermal pads around the GPUs instead of the foam and they seem to fit perfectly. I just installed them so I'm gonna run them for a few days and then remove them and see if there is any change in temps. But 0.5mm seem to fit perfectly. I would base it off my old temps but the new card may run differently

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Nice one. Keep the forum informed please and look back if the LM has made fully contact with the heatsink after a couple of days. Just look for dried LM. And don't worry as long as there is a barrier and kapton tape in use, especially around the GPU die area; then your safe. Mine has been fine for the last 2 weeks or so. I have opened her up 3 times since and it all looks sweet. No spills what so ever.

P.S: I'm using foam barrier by the way. I have posted my prep work on this thread.

 

I will open her back up in a few days and check. I don't have kapton but I used high temp electrical tape. I saw your prep work, looks great. My temps so far during the benchmarks are really good so I assume I have a good connection, but I'll check in a few days to verify.

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Excellent. That high temp electrical tape is good enough. LM makes a big difference

 

I have a weird issue. Everytime I remove my headphones from the headphone jack (either the microphone or earphone) my windows bar at the bottom (where the start button is located) freezes for a few minutes making it unclickable. Then after a few minutes, it catches up with everything that I have clicked on and clicks it all at the same time. Very annoying. Has anyone else had this issue?

 

Have you re-installed the sound drivers?

 

Yes. The issue is still there.

 

For anyone using a U3 cooling pad Mod,

I find a way to control the fans via software by having this https://www.amazon.com/Nzxt-Digital...e=UTF8&qid=1503937316&sr=8-1&keywords=grid+v2 as the fan controller.

Then use this https://github.com/akej74/grid-control to control the fans via your laptop. You wiil be needing this http://openhardwaremonitor.org/ iin order for the software to work.


If you want another option you can go directly to the NZXT website to download their own grid software! https://www.nzxt.com/camapp

Things you need:
1. https://www.amazon.com/Nzxt-Digital...e=UTF8&qid=1503937316&sr=8-1&keywords=grid+v2
2. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Maste...d=1503943269&sr=8-1&keywords=u3+cooler+master
3. https://www.amazon.com/NF-F12-iPPC-...03943291&sr=8-5&keywords=INDUSTRIAL+120MM+FAN
4. https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-1...F8&qid=1503943458&sr=8-37&keywords=COOLERGUYS
5. https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-...Fan+Filter+with+Magnet+Cooling+FF123B+(Black)
6. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerL...otorola,+Android+Smartphones+and+More+(Black)

NOTE: The Grid v2 have issue with PWM that it won't let fans at low speed. If you set the fan rpm below 50%, the fan will rev up and down. http://support.camwebapp.com/forums...-grid-v2-spins-up-and-down?page=1&per_page=20

The way to avoid this is to set the fan rpm around 50% and above.

 

Get a little aqua aero unit and do it automatically

 

Given the 3 M.2 slots, could 3 M.2 drives be placed in RAID0?

 

Should work. But you wouldn''t get much higher speed vs. single fast NVMe drive.

 

I've tried it with 3x Samsung Pro 960's M.2's. I have seen no difference at all. My brother did see that the boot time was a bit slower though, but I never measured this. I did notice that the temps on the drives were much lower than using a single M.2. I have now sold my M.2 drives and I have replaced it with a single 512GB Samsung 960 Pro M.2 as I think a single M.2 is more convenient. In the future when the 2TB M.2 drives are cheap; I will be buying them for fast backup drives only.

 

Temps will be lower yes as each drive is only doing less than 1.5GB/sec in raid 0 with the cap of 4x dmi.

 

Can this be done?
Single nvme slot be filled by a single 512gb 960 pro
But the rest of the m2 slot be filled by 500gb 850 evo
Raid 0 on only two m2 slots?

 

I got 3X M.2 960 Pros in raid 0 mode in my P870KM1. I also got 1X M.2 960 pro on my desktop. The 3X raid might be a bit snappier... but honestly, its pretty hard to tell.... However there are some benefits of having 3X raid m.2 according to this article..

check this out...

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Stora...-Pro-Z170-PCIe-NVMe-RAID-Tested-Why-So-Snappy

 

3rd M.2 is PCI-E only so as long as you put that one as the 960pro then yes.

 

@Stress Tech where did you get that weird copper heat spreader. You're temps are crazy low. Also, do you used deliding kit (rockit cool) for delid, or mby just regular razor method?

 

Hi. Thank you.
This is the delid tool I used. I purchased it off Ebay.

These BitsPower IHS's are from https://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=index but they seem to have stopped selling them, unless they have changed the link and I cannot find it. Take note. This is two of them. I have sanded the one on the right side but not to a smooth finish.


And here is a link to my results of 1+ hour stress test using Prime95 on the 7700K CPU with the same prep work.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-overclockers-lounge.788975/page-1367#post-10588828

Please see the bottom left hand corner of the HWiNFO64 program, to see the 1+ hour upload time. Also see the Prime95 time of start and finish.
Please post the link if you ever find the ( BP-OCCIHS-SL ) BitsPower CPU Integrated Heat Spreader (Silver Shining) product on the Taiwan BitsPower website. This will help others.
This is an old scabby live video of me using the CPU stress test on Intel(R) Extreme Tuning Utility:

I hope this helps

 

hey guys
i forgot to ask this over and over, so now since i'm thinking of it - before forgetting again - here goes: is anyone else having the issue, that the battery of the p870km1 drains like crazy when shut off? like almost 30% in 2 days... i couldn't really find any settings in this locked down default bios (like power usb ports when off i.e.). no clue if this is settings or whatever..
cheers

 

Yes I have noticed that the battery does drain when off but I have never looked to see how much.

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strange thing.. my p870dm is not doing this, but then again i have the prema bios running on it.

 

Actually come to think of it, I have the battery saving option on. I can't recall the name but it's the one where it will just the battery to a certain % then charge to another set %.

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Did you apply anything on the IHS to idetify how much lapping needed to be done or when to stop?

 

You would need to look at the CPU heatsink and match it to that for the best fit.

 

No need for it if you have the Bitspower IHS. You can clearly see the progress and you see when you shall stop. LAPPING PICT IN THE SPOILER

 

I do have the Bitspower IHS, another questions are gasket sealant necessary between the ihs and pcb when I redo the delidding? and do I have to leave a kapton tape on the pcb surrounding the CPU die to protect in case of leak?

 

As what master @Papusan said. It was easy to see the nickel markings fade. Just make sure you have a flat surface like a tile. I also used the figure of 8 method when sanding the BitPower IHS

I never glued my IHS back on to the CPU, if that's what you mean...

UPDATE: Silver IHS is nearly in the making. Even if its not necessary, it HAS TO BE DONE
Still waiting for my 17w AlphaCool pads too. Aqua Tuning have still not received them yet.... Its been over a month
U3 Plus cooler has come today. I'm just waiting for the other parts to come to create a Vardar fan mod on it

 

that makes sense. but what i meant was, that when i charge the notebook, then shut it down (shift - shutdown), unplug everything and leave it like this, it will discharge. like from the day you replied to today it was sitting shut off with a 100% charge. today i power it up to check - 63% left...

also it seems to ignore my flexicharger settings..it just charges the battery to 100% no matter what i set in bios

 

See @Stress Tech informative post above. See also THIS extra steps for preventing leakage

 

Enough of this ********. Any one/any other source sells Bitspower IHS(europe poland)? On their page they are out of stock forever I want to delid, but I want to do it once and do it right.

CPU uV -150, without VC, paste grizzly kryonaut.

Ps. @_deadbydawn_ same here, but my flexicharge bios setup works good.

 

So when I ordered my bitspower IHS it said it was out of stock and I received it in less then a week after ordering it

Those numbers, what were you doing? I don't think those are bad numbers at all pending on what you were doing.

 

-150mV? for 4.5ghz? holy ****, that's good! (no clue on what you were doing there, but the numbers are fine if you ask me). did you set it using throttlestop? if so, any offset on system agent and cache?

ah really, so it discharges as well? strange sh*t...
well i just updated the bios last night, but flexicharge is still doing whatever the hell it wants for me

 

So I was playing a game for a bit nothing strange happened. Stopped playing went to work came home and the computer was on a black screen with the following message

>>Checking media presence...
>>media present...
>>start pxe over ipv4.

It started up but I get this message when ever I start the computer up. Any idea what it's for or why I'm getting it?

Ok I checked the BIOS boot order, for some reason it changed.


I'm not very familiar with this but it looks like it changed to start up from the internet before the boot manager?

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pxe is used to boot i.e. windows images over network (also for restaging). what happens when you switch it so the first boot option is the windows boot manager?

 

Starts up normally. What would cause it to change by itself? All my drives are registering and working correctly.

On a separate topic, I was going through the goodies that Origin sent to me and I have a question about the 4 black foam pieces they sent. Anyone know what they are for?



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Correct me if I am wrong but those are for when you install an SSD. You stick those on the top of the SSD (2 per drive) and then when you slide/insert them into the bracket it makes them fit nice and snug.

 

Ah ok next time I open her up I'll check those.

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@Ground_Zro ok, so i will try to order it anyway. About second part, it was Albion Online. I dont think that 74 C with only 20% cpu usage and 45 at idle, is good score.
@_deadbydawn_ this -150 uV is set in bios only. Somehow i cant get familiar with Throttlestop - but sooner or later I will have to. About temps, in my opinion they are very bad. Peps here have 30-35C at idle with delid - here 45C. CPU is ****ed up, i cant even run stress test (ex OCCT one) for more than 60 sec becouse it reaches 90C on max fans.

Delid it is definitely. I will try also some Mr.Fox mods, mby even CLLU with foam barier.

 

@Rahego Albion online I have so I'll jump on later and see what it runs my temps at, about how long were you playing it for? My start up temps are around 29-30c with idle around 37-40c my ambient temperature in my house is 72f. Now one thing I noticed with mine at least is you can't really base it off the max temp in my opinion. My 7700k will Spike to like let's say 75c for one sec then drop back down. One way to get a good estimate is reset your hwinfo or what ever program you use to monitor your temps right before playing a game, then check the average temps after your done and that will give you a real idea of what the game is running at. But make sure you reset it or it will include the idle temps for your average and that will really change the average. Now the stress test part, mine was the same way it would get up yo 90c quick but ever since the LM and delidding I haven't even seen anything above 85c

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I was going through my logs and I realized that my CPU is running at 100% clock speed even when idle, I was going through my settings and noticed the minimum clock speed was set at 100% through windows. I just lowered it to see if there is any negative outcomes. Is there anything that anyone can think of, of a downside to having a lower clock speed at idle?

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Some info for you. Its about Skylake, but there aint big difference vs. Kaby

 

Perfect, thank you.

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Are you talking about the Power Plan CPU settings? Min / Max for High Power is 100%/100%, that keeps the CPU speed at maximum even when idle.

The Balanced Power plan set's it at 0%/100% so you can drop CPU speed to minimum when load drops, so at idle you will be running at minimum CPU speed and much cooler.

If you set the CPU Max to under 100% it will disable Turbo speed changes and run at lowest base speed all the time. To do that try 0%/99%. Create a custom Power Plan and name it BaseSpeed or some such. You could also make it 99%/99% for all the time BaseSpeed running.

There is no useful advantage to gain by disabling Turbo, and I don't recommend doing it, but some OCD temp people will do it sacrificing speed for cool running. I don't get it myself, but to each their own

You can also make a power saving plan to run on battery - for example 50%/50%, try that and see where the clocks settle. Not sure how much granularity you will have on a locked CPU, probably just turns off Turbo and runs at Base speed, but it's worth playing with - please let us know what you find out