*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Well, that's clear then!

 

Never said anything about thin and better looking lol, was only asking for people's feedback. Thank you for the link though, curious if anyone else has experienced the same, this is 1 benchmark however many factors come into play, if this is notable across other owners then yeah that would definitely be a deal breaker however, I'm very worried about the tinted screen issues I'm reading about on the Clevo as well. I can't trust one solo review, though hearing from actual owners ( more than 1 would make me feel much better ) Also doubt I would be overclocking, but almost curious if that was a defective model and or missing proper paste ( if any ) Also which CF model of the p34Gv2 was this run against?

Do you have any other links to assist on this? If so greatly appreciate it, and if anyone can answer about the battery, throttling ( if any ) and especially the tinted screen issues I've been reading about. Greatly appreciate the feedback.

I love both models and honestly have been a clevo owner for many years, so just trying to get as much feedback/facts as possible since it is pretty pricey.

 

You should be fine. If you want to be safe, then if you use Prema's BIOS, you can disable the 860m entirely and then you likely will never exceed 75W.

 

Maybe I missed it, but what tinted screen issues? Also, Prema is involved with a lot of users in his BIOS mods and his consensus likely matches what users will respond with.

 

If you take a look at manatails blog, you can see that there's a distinct yellow tint on the first picture, before calibration. I have the same yellowish tint.
Do you mean that he might adjust screen color temperature through BIOS?

 

I did
Here you can find more info on any problems that might be apparent on the P34G v2

 

Have several, from n pages back:

Got the König, actually. It is unbelievably puny, yet it's working fine and multimeter says 19.16v (haven't measured current; don't have a good resistor at hand).

Onboard you'll definitely need HTWingNut's suggestion; no 860M saves 60w. Though the cpu will then draw more, the embedded GT2's kicking in after all. So let's say 120-60+10=70w max, which would be ok, especially as it seems there's some headroom. To be safe, you could get a true 75W adapter (you'll want a 19-19.5v with max. 3.85A), but then it's only of use on an airplane. Any games while travelling means lugging an extra adapter along.

Alternatively, this background information page sports the following helpful suggestion:

ps.
Currently using the König another 120W system (it's a universal, after all), since I'm still looking for a barebone reseller (like PWN PCs) that offers the WQHD screen option. And either PWN is (partially) offline or my DNS server needs an update ... got no images.

OT:
"drmatt" sounded familiar, but remembered only just now; Mr. Matt :thumbsup: !!!!

 

And Im saying that i never said that since you quoted me, I was correcting you. As for the above the only slightly negative review Ive seen was on the CF1 release, which they didnt mention where they obtained it from. Many users also claim in comments and other they dont experience most of the issues the reviewer stated so i find thatbinformation to be on a luck basis i guess depending on the reseller.

Back to the clevo though, the tint issue is of a concern.. do you have any information on it as Im still searching around.

Sending from my phone so apologies in advance

 

I'll post a review, including the screen problems (if any) as soon as I recieve it and have it booted up. It should be in somewhere this week...

 

I must be the sequel.

 

I can confirm this issue and the fix. Strangely, my 512GB Crucial MX100 is unaffected so this seems to be specifically with the M500 msata 240GB I have. It was previously running up to 60 degrees. Now at 33 degrees.
For others, remember to uninstall Intel Rapid Storage as this seems to cause the reg fix to not even function.

 

No, I was responding to the temperature post.

 

Hey WingNut, since you did a review on the W230SS, did you notice any tint issues with the screen? Just trying to figure out if it was just some people getting uncalibrated or defective hardware or something that's seen with this model. As much as I was originally leaning towards the P34v2 the fact that it's so thin leads me to believe in issues that may surface with heat, however I see that the Clevo is slightly thicker and has much larger vents in which I feel may assist in this, though I could be wrong. Kinda leaning back on the sager now since I've been w/ them for ages and hard to break away.

Any feedback from your end is appreciated it. Hoping to put in an order tomorrow and just want to get a peace of mind after seeing reviews on both, pros's n Con's and feedback from owners. I usually take online reviews with a grain of salt, however when it comes to members on highly regarded forums I take things to heart more seriously. Thus its come down to this.

 

Ok I'm not WingNut, but my color was a little off at first too.. slightly.

Windows > Control Panel > Color Management > Advanced tab > Calibrate Display.. takes less than a minute and fixed the 'issue'.

If you're really concerned about color accuracy, many resellers offer professional calibration for an extra cost when building, or you can buy something like Spyder4Pro and calibrate it yourself (more accurately than the Control Panel option).

It's nothing major and you're not going to be stuck with a display with inaccurate color, just needs a little tuning to suit your preferences.

:thumbsup:

 

It's definitely useful, although during load SSD still heats up to 65C sometimes. But during gaming and light desktop work it's still much cooler than without the fix.

 

I tried the way with builtin windows calibration tool, but couldn't get the desired result. In the end I settled down with slightly adjusting color temperature through Intel Driver control center. But now I'm going to use the color profiles manatails has shared.

In case if anyone is interested, here's my .igp profile https://mega.co.nz/#!GVlgySib!yjD4lgfKyqQ5uAhRcsvpTL9qYD_fJfwFEOBeDZ3qcdY

 

So then its not a hardware issue just a calibration issue? I've had screens before that just had a bad tint to them but it was a hardware defect vs something that software could offset. I have 2 monitors currently that are not in use due to having a purplish hue that even w/ the Spyder Elite, I'm still not able to fix the issue, colors are way more potent however it just has that overlay that kills me. THAT is my worry, however if you're saying it CAN be fixed then that's fine. I just don't want to be stuck with something that I can't adjust due to it being offset with the hardware only ( if I'm even wording that correctly )

I own the Spyder 4 Elite so if that can fix it I'll run it when I get it if anything. Currently now heading back towards the clevo as its easier to verify their rep vs Gigabytes. As for the remaining differences I hear the palm wear is bad on the Clevo, but like wise the keyboard is pretty flimsy on the p34gv2.

The 2gb vs 4gb I don't think I'll see a difference, since wouldn't that be more for external displays? And even IF so wouldn't it still fail to use since with Optimus it defaults to the intel? Appreciate the information thus far and my apologies if I sounded confusing or wasn't elaborating/explaining correctly, its 2 grand I'm dumping so I really want to make sure I"m making the right decision. Thanks for putting up with all my questioning >w<

 

thats what I did.
I posted the calibration data from my Spyder4Elite for everyone.

It may not be as good as buyng a Spyder and doing it yourself. But seeing that my W230ST also has the same yellowish tint, I assumed that the tint issue is pretty global with that 13 inch Chi Mei panel and sharing the calibration data would help.

I believe it will still be much more accurate than adjusting colors in Intel control panel, in most of the cases.

 

I have not noticed any tinting. I did calibrate my screen eventually, but it was very close to calibrated, so next time I reformatted I didn't even bother.

 

I have wqhd sharp-panel, anybody else got this?

 

A little off topic. Has anybody else been experiencing terrible battery life running ubuntu 14.04 with this laptop. I have disabled the nvidia gpu using the nvidia settings but I am still unable to get more than 3 hours of battery life out of my machine. The power rate ranges from approx. 15W -20W under normal load with 40% brightness, no backlit keyboard. I have also been utilizing powertop with no noticeable advantage. Any ideas?

 

Is there anyway to completely turn off the fans on this?

Call me pedantic- but even on the lowest fan speed, I can still heard a murmur/whirl and it bothers me. Only comes from the left hand side- tho could that just be the mechanical hard drive?

 

To all those with colour calibration issues, it IS a hardware issue. The backlight itself is very yellow. To test, go to the boot option menu so that you have a backlit, but black screen. Lightly push on the screen near the edge, and the backlight bleed should be very distinctly yellow. I fixed it in both Windows and OS X by decreasing the gamma to about 2.4, changing the white point to about 7200 K, and then reducing the amount of red and green (because red + green = yellow).

 

How'd you manage to change the Whitepoint? that is almost impossible with Windows 7

 

Oh, that was on OS X. On Windows, I simply reduced the red and green to get a more neutral white. I compared with a piece of 100gsm inkjet-quality non-glossy piece of A4 paper, and it was close enough. Took me a few attempts to not make it too blue.

At any rate, I'm going back to my reseller here to get some professional calibration done, later today, perhaps.

 

Funny that's exactly what I did too, just looked at a piece of paper until it was right. I used a combination of the Windows Calibrator and the Intel Drivers. With the Intel driver, reduced brightness on mine by -20 and increased contrast by 1, gamma also increased to 1.3. Then used the Windows profiler to reduce red and green by 2 steps. Looks a lot better now and oddly similar to HTWingnut's Spyder calibrated profile except whiter. The factory ICD profile is hideous, waay to blue and low contrast.

 

Wow, that does look better. Thanks.!

 

quick help needed - my m4 SSD just died - which one would you prefer for the W230SS the 2,5" 256GB MX100 (~90€ in Germany) or the mSATA 240GB M500 [~97€ in Germany)

 

I have the 256gb MX100 and a 960gb M500. The MX100 series runs just as fast if not faster than the M500 series in my opinion. I would not be afraid of the MX100 series. I would buy one again with no hesitation if I needed one. I do wish I would have grabbed a 512gb MX100 vs the 256gb though.

 

Unless you have specific needs the mx100 is going to be fine.

 

This worries me a bit, I'm more curious WHY the mfc would opt for a display w/ a yellow backlight and what the benefit (if any) would be.

As for the above settings, did that lower the saturatation your display at all? I'd hate to have a slightly washed out display for the simple comfort of having actual whites vs yellows. Since you changed yours how does it fair?

Since I can't see it I can only imagine which can be worse or better than it actually looks. Thank you for that information.

 

Cost, power consumption, aging profile, availability are the main things that come to mind.

 

Yes. Doing a simple calibration with either the Windows calibration tools (Control Panel -> Search for 'Calibrate display') or in the case of OS X, ColourSync Utility and Display Calibrator work wonders by themselves. But I'm still not satisfied as the calibration between the two OSes are not exactly the same, which is why I'm going to my reseller.

 

Well, one cannot possibly build a monitor that gives you true white. Its because every light source has a hue by itself. Thats what color temperature means, it is a base point for what should be regarded as 'white'.

Typical monitors or TVs opt to 6500k because it closely matches the hue of natural sunlight(that still isn't true white).
But these days some argue that a little bit warmer color temperature is the most comfortable for your eyes and presumably some manufacturers do support that idea.

 

I sell Medical/Machine-Vision lighting (LED, fluorescent, Halogen, etc). 5100K is generally considered "Pure-white" for medical microscopes using florescent illumination (halogens run a bit more yellow). I Google'd around a bit and found the statement below (from here):

"5500 is typical daylight...the longest part of the day where it stays the same. but daylight ranges from 2000-3000 at sunrise through to 6500-7000 for an overcast day. So to make everything match they set film stock to 5600k as a standard and made professional lights at that standard."

So, in theory, it shouldn't matter if the back-light is slightly yellow; you would just white-balance using it as your reference. Think of the LCD screen as a variable-color filter. You adjust its color-balance to compensate for the light-source color-temperature.

 

This is true however this is the first I've ever heard of a "yellow" back light as opposed the the standard. That would definitely bother me. Are there any decent aftermarket displays that one could swap it out w/ ?

I know it was pretty big w/ the m11x and m14x due to their low gamut.

 

I always recommend Intel SSD, never gets broke.

 

I had 2x x25 Intels and 3x 330s but the mentioned ones come at really good prices

 

My new baby arrived in my city at 11AM this morning but won't be delivered until tomorrow...this wait is killing me....

My 240GB Crucial SSD arrived yesterday and the 16GB of Geil memory are itching to be installed...hopefully UPS will drop her off by lunch...one more day...one more day...

 

I don't think that the backlight itself is yellow, the tint issue is mostly caused by how the microprocessor handles the input. I also have a RGB-LED backlit monitor and that still has a hue when not calibrated. Theoratically you should be able to get rid of it by offsetting the input.

 

The backlight is just a string of LEDs. Some mfgrs bin them for color, some don't. Some prefer one white point, etc. I've seen the 'yellow' effect on the cheaper 'high brightness' backlights; we had to pay more to find a whiter backlight that was still bright enough for our application.

 

my w230ss is about to arrive. can anyone suggest me a source for buying a second battery for it at reasonable costs?

TIA.

 

Probably the same reseller as you bought it from. If it isn't listed they'll probably sell it if you email them

 

Has anyone done this? Guess that's the last concern I have before pulling the trigger, if not, may just end up going w/ the 8258-S since I'm not so trusting on Gigabyte given how slim it is...

 

I think there's nothing to worry about. You can get rid of yellow tint by either using manatails color profiles or by adjusting stuff manually through intel control center and windows calibration tool, as has been suggested couple of pages before by Marksman. I tested both ways and they both work. After all I think you shouldn't expect professional level color reproduction from this screen. If you want something like it, go for macbook retina or similar.

 

Again I'm not expecting professional color, just having a yellow tint I can't get rid of is what would annoy me, as long as it can be fixed or removed then that's fine. Thank you for clarifying though. Trying to get a size comparison w/ the 8258 (since someone mentioned its slim and compact ) now before I buy this. since its something I'll be using for a while.

 

Hi,

My w230ss just arrived and so far it's fantastic. I'm currently setting it up and I have a couple of questions for the group:

(1) temperatures. I did a re-paste with Arctic mx-4 and ran 3dmark, and I'm seeing max temperatures of ~70C GPU (occasionally spikes to 75) and ~80C CPU (occasionally spikes just over 90C). Idle temperatures are around 50C. While this is slightly cooler than before the re-paste, it's only a couple of degrees, and I expected a bit more dramatic of a temperature drop - is this range reasonably good, or should I re-re-paste?

(2) bios. I was about to flash to Prema's latest bios, but I want to be able to return the machine to its original state if necessary. I know Prema supplies stock bios, but my computer boots with the cyberpowerpc logo. Is there a relatively simple way to back up my current bios, logo and all, and then re-flash to that at a later time if necessary?

Thanks in advance.

 

hmmm... since it will be an extra battery for emergency which will not be used 99% of the time, i was looking at a good bargain on some place like Ebay. even a slight used one will do.

is there a particular part number with which I can search for the battery on Ebay? i am sure that the battery is common with at least a few Clevo models.

 

I have quite same temps. Some undervoltage on CPU helps few degrees too. Using arctic mx-4.

 

The W230SS and W230ST have the same battery AFAIK, but I couldn't find either on eBay.
I expect my W230SS to be here by tomorrow, so I'll see if there's a part number on the battery, if you haven't already gotten it from someone else...