*** Official Clevo W230SS/Sager NP7338 Owner's Lounge ***

Ok, I found it. Turns out there's a setting in the Intel display driver in the power settings called 'Panel Self-refresh'. With that one disabled the problem is gone.

Thanks for the help! And hopefully this will help others with the same problem as well since it takes quite some time to figure out

 

Excellent!

Interestingly, it's a necessity for G-Sync (and FreeSync) to work. Mainly, it's a power-saving feature; your new display appears to be eDP v1.2, whereas the 'old' one was v1.3, which introduced PSR. That also matches the panel nrs.: new display the older ' F01' -> old display the newer ' L01' (hope that's clear ). Consequence would be a slightly diminished battery life, but not much, fortunately.

Thanks for the exports, btw, was looking for something like this:

Code:

    Power Setting GUID: 332f614f-c023-47bd-a74d-324c7fe0ae2c  (Put the discrete GPUs to sleep after)

Some programs don't recognise dGPU in its 'off' state, setting this value to ' never' will remedy that.

 

Hi t456,

Thanks for the explanation! Together we learn things . I saw the power setting you mentioned as well and modified it in the registry, because I could not find that setting in the power options of Windows. It did not help though. Now we know why .

 

Sad thing so much is hidden. CPU especially has a crazy selection:

Spoiler: hidden Power Options

And the 860M 24/7:



Already had that set, just completely forgot about it ... indeed, no issues as of late ... thought it was better drivers .

 

Yes if the screen does not change the panel refreshes the image it has and you spend less energy.

 

My previous fix for the headphone port turning off without hotkey utility install still works.

Download and extract the following zip file. Put the files somewhere out of the way (I store them in Program Files (x86)\Headphone Fix)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2NJm-MBV7lWNnpBNTZ6QUhmZW8/view?usp=sharing

I have included an XML export of the task that starts the task though I have no idea whether it works. Try it and let me know.

Manual method:
Open event viewer. Go to windows logs > system. Put your laptop to sleep and wake it up. The top even should be "Power-troubleshooter" with an Event ID of 1.

Right click it and "Attach task to this event".

In the window name it and describe it whatever you want to remember it by. Click next three times.

Select InitHeadPhone.exe as the Program/script without any arguments or start in options.

You then need to go to "Task Scheduler" and find "Event Viewer Tasks". You'll find the event you just created. Open its properties.

Under general make sure it "Run whether user is logged on or not" is ticked. I also ticked "Run with highest priviledges" and configure for windows 10.

Under Conditions, untick "start the task only if the computer is on AC power"

I left everything else on default.

I hope this helps everyone else who thinks that Hotkey AP/Command centre is balls.

 

How do you get all those power settings to show?

 

Just wanted to report a positive experience in buying a new panel from laptopscreens.com, after an unfortunate experience with a sneaky candle. I selected a N133HSE-EA3 compatible model, hoping I could get one of these newer models, and I got an N133HSE-EA1 which is what I had previously had, so still excellent and on the plus side I already had an ICC profile for it (I'll recalibrate for this exact unit as soon as I can, but this will do for now).

 

Either use spreadsheet or edit registry directly:

1. Go to 'HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings'.
2. Search Value "Attributes".
3. Replace each instance 'dword = 1' with '0'.

Effective immediately; start ' Power Options' and they're visible. Applies to all ' Power plans', btw, and it's system-dependant; different hardware, different power-saving/throttle options. When you install/replace new device then also check for " Attributes" again. Also, nvidia likes to overwrite its values now and then (think launch nv control panel and upon driver update), might lock it with permissions or use a .reg (hence spreadsheet). Doesn't really matter anyway; values/settings stick, even after being hidden again.

 

anyone more than me having problems with the touchpad in windows 10 ?

 

Hey guys. My laptop now refuses to accept profiles from XTU which I had set a while ago. When I click a profile, any profile, and select 'Import values' and then 'Apply', my laptop hangs and reboots. What's wrong? None of my profiles are anything taxing - some are increases to the current limit which is currently exceeded by the stock profile, or a power-saving undervolt and underclock.

 

Yeah the default synaptics windows 10 drivers suck the big one super fun time.

To fix - uninstall them in control panel and then run the "Show and Hide Updates" troubleshooter to manually disable it from ever appearing.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/3073930

Then download and install the windows 8.1 driver

http://www.clevo.com.tw/en/e-services/download/ftpOut.asp?Lmodel=W230SS&ltype=9&submit=+GO+

This'll install the working 8.1 drivers which are working perfectly in 10 and prevent windows from automatically updating to the wank beta drivers.

 

Yeah the original elantec ones were pretty bad too, looks like they pushed an update to microsoft though and it's much improved on the stock drivers now.

 

Does anybody know whether you can "downgrade" the panel from a 1440p screen to a 1080p screen?

1440p is just too many pixels for this screen size and windows 10 still doesn't scale very well.

 

Sure, you just also need a matching cable. Maybe someone wants to swap his FHD with your WQHD...

 

Hey guys. My keyboard has suddenly stopped working properly. Several keys do not work at all, unless repeatedly slammed on. I have already attempted reseating the wide cable several times. I'm not sure what's going on - do I need to send it in? Or can I clean out the cable connectors myself?

 

It couldn't hurt to check the connectors to see if there is any damage or anything that could be causing a connection issue. Also use some compressed air and just make sure there isn't some kind of build up of dust or anything in the keyboard. I would also check with the company you purchased it from to see if they have recommendations as well (if you are under warranty, might as well use it if needed).

 

Does it happen if you boot to dos as well?

 

Yes. Also occurs on OS X.

 

Sound like one of cable's wires has broken then. External kb ok and are the affected keys grouped together?

Anyway, not something you'd fix (easily), except replacing the keyboard. Might try lifting it out and track the spot where it's broken by squeezing. A bit of tape may hold it together while waiting for the new kb.

 

What does the cable look like? Any signs of damage on the end?

 

Cable itself looks fine. Connectors look fine as well, although have a slightly worn look.

Now here's something I discovered - you guys know how in Word, or Notepad, the texture cursor blinks if you're not typing anything but doesn't blink and is continuously displayed once you start typing? The same thing happens to me when I start typing on one of the faulty keys. So it seems the keyboard is sending data that those keys are typed - but there's no data about which key it is, so it's blank.

Problematic keys include 3, t, and 0 (number).

 

Those are too far apart and, besides, the blinking is a clear indicator. Can't be the registry, because of DOS and OS X, so ... might check with a DPMI-capable DOS. Or, easier, flash the bios, me and ec; the NSA may have screwed up their keylogger rootkit ...

 

A few more keys appear to intermittently fail: at least half the number keys, and the t key (i.e. roughly the top third of the keyboard). I'm going to get the keyboard replaced tomorrow - I've got free parts warranty for another two years anyway.

 

That makes more sense; cable failure should see them fail by the bunch. Could try external keyboard first. Or, easier, ' Accessories -> OSK'.

 

Let us know how you get on, it could be an issue with the keyboard circuitry.

 

Well, I went to their service centre today and it was just my luck that the problem didn't happen in front of the technician. I went back home to see if I could eke it out myself and ended up breaking a few keys as I took them out one by one.

Going to pay to get it replaced. *facepalm*

 

Yeah the keys are not really designed to be removable.

 

Hello people.
I have some questions:

1. There is drivers for Windows 10?
2. Can i tweak on bios or with 3rd party software to improve laptop temperature? Because where i live in Summer CPU and GPU get really high.
3. What advice would give to improve performance?

Btw my firmware version is: 1.03.03CC v1.1
Thanks in advance.

 

1. Most of it works immediately in W10. Outside of automatic drivers I installed the Win8.1 drivers for Audio and Nvidia drivers directly from geforce.com.
2. You can try undervolting (on CPU, GPU doesn't work very well with it). You can also underclock both parts if you're worried. XTU/Throttlestop for CPU and MSI Afterburner/NvidiaInspector for GPU.
3. If you don't have an SSD already, get one. Other than that you can Overclock. But if you have temperature issues you won't have much room to move.

 

You can try the NP7339 W 10 drivers http://www.sagernotebook.com/drivers.php?cat=613

 

Using the default Wi-Fi card I've only been able to get around 30 mb/s. What can I do to improve this and if a hardware upgrade is required what should I get (and what form factor will it be)?

 

What router are you using?

 

Initially I thought the problem was the router (netgear wnr2000) so we got a new one (tp link n600), and that fixed the problem for other computers but not mine.

 

Have you verified the aerials are plugged into the wireless card properly?

 

I haven't yet but reinstalling the drivers managed to roughly double download performance (now at ~58 mb/s). Other computers on the network are still getting almost double that but this is not as bad as before. The default chip doesn't seem to support 5.8 ghz - could this be the problem and the 2.4 ghz network is just really congested due to my urban location?

 

Yes that can cause an issue, have you tried manually setting the channel in device manager?

 

I'm almost certain the issue is 2.4 ghz interference - I split the network into 2 SSIDs for 5.0 ghz and 2.4 ghz and tested them both with my phone that supports 5 ghz. The 2.4 ghz network was 31 mb/s and the 5.0 was around 75. I also reseated the chip and antennas with no improvement.

 

Might change the 2.4GHz channel. Run inSSIDer v3 or something, see if there's a less congested band available.

Spoiler: wifi jam

 

Might be worth playing with orientation as well.

 

Bit late, but finally figured out what the J_LED1 connector is for:

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - J_LED1 connector

From Prema's W230SS comment page:

Rare, that thing, almost every build has it unpopulated:

Spoiler: Clevo W230SS - J_LED1 connector empty

Doesn't matter, it's powered regardless on my SS:

Spoiler: J_LED1 as a 5V power source

Works well, despite the missing EC control bit (since the default setting is 'ON'), but only for small-draw devices. If ' 40-60 mil' means mA, then that seems accurate; ~0.25W. Sufficient for a micro-fan, though.

 

Yeah since lid LEDs are not power hungry that seems about right.

 

Excuse me,

Is anyone able to direct me to a version of the Clevo Hotkey utility which will work on the W230SS, preferably with Windows 7 (8.1 is workable, if that's the only option), that allows manual fan configuration? Right now I usually run it at max, but when I am around other people I turn it off because of the noise. I would like to be able to configure it to run at, say 50%, or to lower the barriers for when the fan should start spinning.

In the thread listed below, DarkBladeX says version 2.39.55 allows this, but has not responded with where to find it. I have looked for 2.39.55 without any luck so far. I have also tried multiple other versions. Some haven't worked at all. The rest only have the 'automatic' or 'maximum' fan settings.

Does anyone have Hotkey 2.39.55, or an alternative method of configuring the fans?

Any help would be appreciated!

Reference link: forum.notebookreview.com/threads/w230ss-hotkey-ap-control-center.777992/

[Edit: Removed brackets from reference link.]

 

FAN control is an EC feature that is only being exposed and functional in Clevo HotkeyApp with a supported EC firmware.
This feature was actually only added to the W230SD model and not the W230SS, though I have played a bit with porting it to the SS...

 

Thank you, Prema!

That's disappointing to hear. But I guess I can stop looking for the "right" version of Hotkey. When I install version 3.12.24, without restarting, I can see the custom controls for the fan, but when I save any changes, they don't take effect. If I try other changes, the program crashes. When I restart, the custom option is gone.

Thanks again!

 

How is that working out? Can we SS users expect some fan control as well?

 

Hello there!
I need some help with the np7338 with W10,

i'm having problems with the SoundBlaster Cinema, it says that there's not a compatible device. Did someone managed to make it work?

thank's

 

Hey all, so I have a question about my Sager. It seems to be overheating considerably. Whenever I play a new game I always watch my temps, and dial down the settings if it gets too high. However I have noticed exceedingly high temps, especially on my GPU, and to a lesser extent on my CPU, even on games that I should be able to run just fine. And my framerate is not a problem, in fact it is almost always the temperature that is the limiting factor. Only on much more intensive games, like Far Cry 4, do I have a framerate limitation.

So, to give an idea of the temps, running Far Cry on high, I will typically get around 90-95c on my CPU, and 85-90 on my GPU. That's a pretty intensive game though. I just installed Total War Arena, which is not the most intensive of games, and with that I am running ~85-90c on my CPU and up to 93c on my GPU. This is on medium settings, and at 50fps... Other Total War games I can run on at least High settings without getting this hot.

So, my question is, is this too hot? Do I need to start worrying? I have already tried repasting about six months ago, and it made a few degrees difference but not as much as I had hoped. It was my first time putting on paste though so there is a possibility I did it wrong.

Edit: Also I always run my computer on a lap desk. It doesn't have fans, but it is a hard surface so I'm not putting it right on my lap or anything. Also nothing is overclocked.

Edit2: I have repasted. Now, running the same game (Total War Arena), I have a peak of 85c on my CPU and 86c on my GPU.

 

Your GPU temps are easily 20°C hotter than usual (maximum temperatures I get are 75°C on an overclocked and over-volted 860M, running X-Plane 10 and The Witcher 3, as well as GTA V). Your CPU temperatures are somewhat ordinary for stock clocks, but they could be managed better by downclocking and under-volting - you can expect up to a 15°C decrease in temperatures if you do it properly. Nevertheless, something is seriously wrong, and I strongly suspect it is your heatsink that has given way.

Yep, temperatures are too hot and your heatsink assembly itself has probably failed internally, as I mentioned above. Hence, however much you change your thermal paste, you won't experience much of a difference. Head back to your reseller, demonstrate exactly how hot your computer gets by running those games, and ask them to swap out your heatsink for a new one.

 

The reseller where I bought my computer (Xotic) is in a different country from the one I live in, and there's no Clevo resellers in my country that I know of. So it would be difficult to get any kind of repair work done unless I went to a generic computer repair shop. Do you really think it is a failed heatsink? I have had this computer for less than a year, and it has always been this hot. I edited my post saying I repasted it, and it gave me a ~7 degree drop in GPU temps. No real difference in CPU, or slight.