15" Series 9 NP900X4D discussion

I've just checked in another notebook that my 1.35V modules are alive and well so I presume the problem is with the Samsung BIOS.

See this thread if you want to downgrade your BIOS. I've not tried this route. I just put back the original 2 x 4GB. The BIOS file you need is "ITEM_20130717_1173_WIN_P08ABK.exe".

John

 

sigh... that's a shame. Is there no changelogs for these BIOS updates?

 

If they exist, they are accessible to very few people. I've developed the impression that Samsung's support people don't have detailed knowledge about the BIOS updates.

John

 

Hello everyone, this isn't stricktly speaking an X4D problem but I'm hoping someone here tried this with a similar setup.

The problem is i'm trying to run VMware on the X4D and it's very slow. I posted this on the VMware forums but no one responded.

My guest OS performance in VMware is very laggy and unresponsive. Opening programs takes a long time,and the cursor is laggy. Iv'e tried everything I can think of: Changed amount of available RAM from 1-3, changed the number of cores from 1-4, changed the virtual disk into split disks or a singe one and nothing helps.
I also eliminated the swap file on the guest OS altogether and still no change.

I'm running Linux Mint 16 (the guest) on VMware player 6.0.1 under win 8.1 (host).
The computer is a Samsung series 9 Laptop with i7-3517u processor, 8GB ram and 256GB sandisk U100 SSD.
The VMware image is currently set up to use 20GB virtual monolithic disk, 2GB RAM, 2 processor cores, NAT Connection.
Iv'e tried copying the same OS image over to a friends laptop who's running it on a lenovo laptop with i5-2310 processor, 256 samsung 840 SSD and 6GB RAM and it works flawlessly.

One of the things I noticed was that opening programs under the guest OS (even just the linux terminal) utilizes 100% of the CPU for a while according to the Linux performance monitor but, under Windows (the host)it shows very little processor usage.

Things I thought of are:
Slow SSD - (U100 as I stated earlier) but I don't see how this would affect the performance as even on regular HDDs VMware usually works fine.
Locked features in the BIOS - Iv'e noticed the Phoenix BIOS is very limited for some reason and I have no control over any of Intel's virtualization technologies that are supposed to be supported by this processor, is Samsung locking features like VT-x on purpose? And If so, any way of accessing them?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

I've got VMware Player installed on my X4C and, although I don't use it much (it's for legacy 16 bit programs) it runs smoothly.

Suspicion has to fall on the U100 which can bog down the whole system the moment there is any queue of multiple I/O - it seems that the whole computer has to wait for the backlog to be cleared. Once I discovered that the U100 got replaced. You have set up a 20GB virtual disk which is likely to result in significant disk I/O activity once VMware has used most of its RAM allocation.

I would strongly recommend you treat yourself to a better (and higher capacity) mSATA SSD. As you will see from my review here the Samsung EVO mSATA would be a good choice. Although the Crucial M500 mSATA is less expensive, it also uses more power.

See here and here for some US prices.

If a better SSD doesn't fix the problem then we will have to do some further thinking.

John

 

Thank you for the answer John. I was worried that the U100 is the culprit, but I don't see why. I allocate more than enough RAM for the guest system (about 33% is in use) and I completely removed the swap file so to my understanding there shouldn't be any disk paging (or very little).
I'm aware of the U100 shortcomings thank's to your review and others but short of the VMware( in case the SSD is indeed the cause) I had no performance issues with it and I was planning on waiting a while before changing it to a 500GB one.
I'm thinking I'll try to find a friend with a better SSD which I can loan to test the VMware Player on and see if that solves the problem.

 

You might need a large network of friends to find one with a spare mSATA SSD.

Have you looked in Resource Monitor (Task Manager > Performance)? It should show the resource usage by VMware and be able to help pin down the problem.

You can also run HWiNFO to make sure the CPU isn't stuck at 800MHz (if it is make sure you have not enabled Silent Mode or Eco Mode).

John

 

Hi, i'm very sorry if it's off the topic, but i really have to ask you ...
About the scratches, the same thing happened to me, even the lightest ones that i don't know how did they happened... ...
I also asked samsung customer support to help me find out what is it made up of:
"Robert D: I see that the outer cover (Body) is made up of plastic.
Visitor: plastic? NP900X4D-A05US?
Visitor: are you sure?
Robert D: Yes; you are correct."
I'm totally confused. :/

Do you have any suggestion if it's possible to do something about it, e.g. polishing or cleaning? and with what?
i was looking for the answer, and i'm thinking to try with this Macbook Pro Scratch Remover by primeprovision on Etsy , is there anyone who tried it? Or something else?

Brgds

 

I presume that your X4D is one of those with a metallic finish. It's another case of misinformation by the Samsung support people because the material is actually magnesium alloy.

Looking for scratch removal on magnesium alloy I came across this discussion. I would start with the toothpaste suggestion - it's a mild abrasive so, while it might not remove the scratches very quickly, it won't cause other damage either.

John

 

Well, right now I feel like the dumbest human being on earth. I got HWiNFO, lo and behold - my CPU's frequency locked to 800Mhz. Naturally clicking the Fn + F11 button (silent mode) fixed the problem.
I'm very grateful for the help John, it was major headache for the past week and I can't believe I haven't noticed an impact on performance otherwise.

 

Consider the Silent Mode trap to be a rite of passage into the Samsung notebook owner's club.

I've lost count of how many instances of performance problems have come from this cause. Samsung should pop up a warning about reduced performance every time Silent Mode gets enabled.

John

 

Perfect! With your permission, I'll re-use that phrase from time to time

 

I'll consider my cherry popped!

Is this a mistake on my part not installing some kind of driver or is Samsung's UI just broken and there is absolutely no indication to when i'm in silent mode?

 

Don't worry, it's not just you. Samsung likes to do power management (and other things) their own way -- and their explanation of it leaves some to be desired. I actually find it works quite well for me; but only after I spent some time head-scratching and tweaking it.

See this post for a summary and some links that describe it.

 

If you have Windows 7 and Easy Settings then there is a pop-up on-screen message (silent mode on /off) when the Fn+F11 is pressed (and other pop-up messages for the other Fn keys).

However, some people complained about the pup-up messages and Samsung removed them in the Settings program for Windows 8. Given that Easy Settings V2 and Settings have the same foundation I wonder whether there is a switch somewhere which could be manually changed.

John

 

Do you know if Samsung released an API for it's controls or the settings program? I would have no trouble writing a user friendly control panel with notifications.

 

Nothing that I know about.

However, I recall that Linux includes some support for Samsung notebooks so there might be come clues there.

John

 

First time user. Great Forum! Thanks for all the solid info.

Questions:
1) What brand 256 SSD does the X4D-A07US use?
2) OS: Windows 7 Professional® with Windows 8 Pro COA. Does that mean Win 8 is installed? Would Win 8 need to be removed to optimize SSD space?

 

You may be able to find something if you Google SABI (Samsung Advanced BIOS Interface). This is the name of the service used by Settings to access firmware features, and is also the API used by the Linux Samsung driver (credit to member oled in this post). The source for that Linux driver (and maybe even the API itself) must be available somewhere.

 

I need some help, i dropped my laptop, and my screen is shattered, the laptop works fine, turns on. Also i can see that the screen is also responding when i press control Alt delete it blinks off and on, telling me that task manager just popped up. I will be ordering a new led screen, but in the meantime while i wait, i would like to use it: by connecting to my hdtv. I purchased a micro hdmi rocket fish from bestbuy, but every time i connect to the laptop no display (on HDTV)

What i would like to know is, if someone can confirm via micro hdmi to a monitor and tell me if it automatically switches display, or do you have to go through settings, and change something before it recognizes on the screen.

The reason why i ask, is reading through the manual it says to press Fn+f6 (i think) then it will switch, but i can't see-anything on screen except for some colors and white screen ( to tell me that i am switching it right). My other laptops that have a fulll hdmi port not micro when ever i connect it, it automatically switches to the big screen. This is a little weird to me, why no automatic switch or maybe i have to use a mini vga.......i don't know what else to do.

Please help guys.

 

It's Fn+F4 to switch through the display output options.

John

 

Yeah i tried that, nothing, I can't see the settings when i press those buttons since my screen is shattered, i was hoping it shows on my hdtv but nothing displays. How about my question regarding connecting it to hdtv and seeing weather it displays on a external monitor without touching anything or changing any settings in the laptop.

 

I'll test this with my X4C tomorrow if no one else has responded before then.

John

 

Thanks for your help i will wait in-till then. It is kind of weird that this laptop doesn't automatically change to external monitors even the cheapest laptops do this (pay premium price, and end up figuring things the hard way)

 

The graphics control panel says press Windows + P to connect to a projector.

Give it a try. Your computer doesn't know the difference between a projector and a display.

John

 

It didn't do nothing, pressing those buttons. I was also thinking maybe i should try the vga port or maybe a micr hdmi to vga port, because i think that hdmi needs to be configured through laptop settings while vga no need for it, i could be wrong. That's why i am waiting for someone to explain to me, that you do have to tinker with the settings after you connect the micro hdmi, before i pay for those things.

 

If you don't have your laptop set to sleep/hibernate/shut down, closing the lid will send the image to a properly connected external display.

 

Odd i got it to work, with the hdmi port after, clicking the Fn+f4 many times. Now i am stuck on trying to get it to display the bios, i wanted to load a fresh copy of windows, but it doesn't display that, only when it boots into desktop. So i would like to know if there is a way to do this, can someone who has a vga adapter or micro hdmi to vga adapter confirm this for me. Thanks for your help.

 

I have tested trying to display to VGA using an NP900X3B and the Samsung VGA dongle (not micro HDMI to VGA). There was nothing on the external display when in the BIOS but the system automatically duplicated onto the external screen when in Windows (I first plugged in when running Windows and it was automatically detected).

I had expected that there would be output to VGA at the BIOS level but I doubt if the X4D will behave differently to the X3B. They are essentially the same platform.

If you are trying to get into the BIOS to change the boot device priority then the other route is to tap F10 a few times immediately after turning on the computer. This brings up the one time boot device menu. Pressing the down arrow will select a different device. If this is what you are trying to do then tell me what you are booting from (flash drive or optical drive) and I can try to replicate the process so I can give more detailed instructions.

John

 

John I can't thank you enough for all the help you've given me, i really appreciate it.

I also doubt it as-well, i think they are identical except for some specs. I will be using a ub flash drive to install the os. The reason why i am doing this, is my touch pad seems to have malfunctioned, i have to use a external usb mouse to navigate. Also my os (which is W7) is acting up i can't get into personalize....weird; But everything else works, i think i may have a virus on my computer, i even opened up the laptop and it seems to show no indication of broken hardware. I also read around that many people have problems with the touch-pad, so i think it's software more than hardware.

Thanks once again for the help.

 

OK, I've done some testing.

I had problems getting the computer to recognise there was a bootable flash drive but then remembered that it is necessary to turn off the Samsung Fast Boot mode in Easy Settings. The computer doesn't check for bootable USB devices when Fast Boot is enabled.

After that, it was a matter of tapping F10 a few times immediately after (re)booting. Then press the cursor down once to change from the SSD to the USB device, then press enter. I didn't need to press enter again after a few seconds to say OK to boot from the flash drive but you may need to if it is the Windows installer.

Good luck. I hope the windows installer is clever enough to output to the external display.

John

 

Update: Bought a X4D-A07US as a backup / spare for my X4C-A03US. The X4D came loaded with Windows 7 Pro, and it seems to work fine. Came with a "System Recovery Media" DVD for Windows 8 Pro, not going to use that.

C: properties says it has a SAMSUNG MZMTE256HMHP-000 solid state hard drive. Assume that is good. Seems as fast as my X4C-A03US, which has a LITEONIT LMT-256M3M hard drive. Any comments / suggestions? Who makes the LITEONIT brand?

Thanks!

 

Liteon (or Lite-on) is a major tier 2 component manufacturer (you will probably find the name on your PSUs). They also produce ODDs which used to be popular for doing a region-free work-around.

The Samsung SSD is the PM 851 it has very similar performance to the Liteon mSATA SSD and both are a safe choice (unlike the Sandisk U100 which Samsung put into many of these notebooks).

If you want to upgrade the SSD then the Samsung EVO mSATA (not listed on that Samsung SSD page) is a good choice although the Crucial M500 / M550 are a bit cheaper (and appear to have higher idle power consumption).

John

 

Thanks John!

Looks like I'm in good shape.

This forum is absolutely the best, for Series 9 owners.

Thanks again, Paul

 

SSD upgrade - good article:

mSATA SSD Review: Crucial 480GB M500 vs Samsung 1TB 840 EVO

 

I know the author personally.

However, there is a need to check the suggestions made in this post. Also, the M500 is being replaced by the M550 which might change the conclusions.

John

 

LOL

I've seen some pretty good reviews from this guy as well.

 

Hello,

I have NP900X4D and I am not happy with the hardrive and the RAM.

I want to buy 4 GB more memory and also change the SSD with 256 GB. Is this possible?

Thanks.

 

Yes and yes.

The originator of this thread tested the notebook with 16GB RAM so adding 4GB shouldn't be a problem except that one of the BIOS updates made the notebook fussy about what RAM works. The safest bet is the same module as the one you have now. Otherwise people have had success with some Kingston modules in the Book 8 (where a similar compatibility issue appeared after a BIOS update).

I recommend the Samsung EVO SSD. I have the 1TB version in my NP900X4C.

Also get a good quality Philips size 0 screwdriver for the screws on the bottom of the computer.

John

 

Hello again,

Having yet another trouble. A few days ago my fan started to make this strange buzzing/whistling/rattling sound. When I go to Power Saver mode (aka lock CPU-s) then the thing is fully quiet. When turbo boost is on the fan sound starts again. I am quite confused, because RAM load is low, CPU is low and this is not the usual "fan kicking in"-sound. Yesterday I detatched my computer, cleaned it and tried to see if there was anything disconnected or something, but everything is in order. And now comes the weird thing, when I move my screen or laptop, the fan-ish sound is quiet. When placed on a surface, the extremely irritating noise kicks in again.

As Samsung has SSD, I am quite certain that the problem is with the fan. What should I do to check it out? I think I'll have a few months guarantee left, but after a sudden fall and a crack under my left palm wrist, I am starting to believe they tell me this problem is due to physical injuries and I have no way to prove that that crack was there last year.

 

I wonder if the base of the computer has got slightly bent and is touching the fan housing. This would amplify any fan noise or possible affect the operation.

You could try removing the base (use a good quality Philips size 0 screwdriver) to check the base and inspect the fan. You can also run the computer with the base off to see if the noise happens (but note that the improved access of air to the components is likely to reduce the need for the fan to run unless you load the CPU).

John

 

I gave a quick look yesterday and didn't see anything bent. As I said, my physical injury to this laptop was over half a year ago, fan noise started a few days ago. But ofcourse I can open it again and do a quick check-up.
The thing is, fan is making that annoying sound even when I am using my Browser with 1 tab. Or have everything shut down. Places where the fan should be quiet.

When I move the screen, the fan noise stops as well, so I don't think it could be the chassis.

 

While you have the base off check that all the screws you can find are tight. Perhaps something has worked loose.

What CPU temperatures are you getting under light usage? (Use HWiNFO or HWMonitor to find this information).

John

 

Average 51 degrees (C).. Room temp is about 25 (boiling summer here).
After 30 mins monitoring average 57, CPU is currently 20% due to many open programs.

One thing I've realised this noise randomly shuts itself down. Even when using all CPU-s and turbo boost. As I said, in Power Saver mode laptop stays quiet.

 

My NP900X4C temperatures are very similar and, if I put my ear against the keyboard, I can hear the fan running (it is otherwise inaudible). If my memory is correct the fan will come on at slowest speed at either 55C or 60C and turn off when the temperature has dropped 10C.

Power Saver mode reduces the CPU speed down reducing the heat generated and thereby getting temperatures into a range where the fan can stay off.

That the noise is intermittent suggests that either something is loose or the fan itself is getting work out. Once you have checked that nothing is loose then the next step would be to buy a new fan. It's part No. BA31-00131A.

John

 

Just to mention that I upgraded yesterday from 8 to 8.1, using the instructions in this forum and the Samsung site. Everything went smoothly - all function keys working, no problems.

Some Nuance programs needed their license to be reactivated, and I had problems with Brother network printers - but I found solutions to everything on the net.

Only settings and one other driver was updated using sw update after the update.

I hope it goes smoothly for everyone else too

 

I updated a few months ago and encountered a ton of driver related issues. Had to reformat my pc all the way to windows 7 again and upgrade manually. windows 8.1 is not that big of a deal for a non touch screen laptop like ours.

 

Hey guys and hello again!

One quick question: Is it possible to remove the keys from the keyboard in order to clean dirt which is underneath? (some keys arent working properly anymore)

 

I think they are removable, with care, but I have never tried. Usually the keys have a plastic scissors mechanism at each side which you have to pull apart at the joints in order to release the keycaps. Find a key that you very rarely use (and won't miss if this experiment fails ) and try lifting it up along either the top or bottom edge. A slight click should mean that the joints are coming apart. Do it slowly and carefully so you can see how the mechanism clips together. And once you have got it apart then try putting it together again. If you can successfully do that two or three times then you are ready to tackle the keys that you use but don't work properly.

However, I accept no responsibility for a successful outcome to this procedure. Your alternative is to invest in a new "unit housing top" with the correct keyboard layout for your country. Given that those parts are expensive then it's worth trying to pull a key off. And, while you are there, a few photos wouldn't go amiss so the rest of us can see what is under a Series 9 keycap.

John

 

Thanks for your answer! However I have to admit that I havent had the balls yet to challenge the keys to be broken.

Fortunately the problematic keys got better (maybe thru rigorous pressing) and I am less worried about it anymore. In case I get over myself and Ill lift a key Ill report here.

With this I already wish you a merry Christmas guys and thanks John for your support here! :thumbsup: