2013 Ativ Book 9 Plus owner's lounge (NP940X3G)

Ok -- I have made at least some measure of progress by turning off the "Click Lock" function in the Mouse Properties. Most of the items listed were resolved in deselecting that item. As soon as I saw it I knew I selected this to "try it out", but then had directed all my troubleshooting efforts into the Elantech settings and options when everything suddenly was noticeably going haywire. The "Click Lock" may in fact be useful with a mouse -- but it is hell's own nightmare re: touchpad functionality. For example, Cut/Paste wouldn't work because the "Click Lock" requires an additional click to "set" the selection of highlighted text -- rather than just highlighting and CTRL +C etc. Which I now understand from first experiencing the behavior then subsequently re-reading the description.

A good idea would entail a function which allowed a user to see a clickable listing of all settings which have been changed in the last 24-48 hours-- 7 days etc. So that users could try features with which they might not be familiar -- without having to then rely solely on their own recall to wade through for instance-- the four distinct and variously located utilities within which are contained several subsidiary blocks housing dozens of sometimes overlapping settings related simply to mouse and touchpad functionality in the ATIV 9 alone. But I won't hold my breath.

Thanks for the input and feedback all. I'll be back with more queries I'm sure.

 

Yeah, that's the CP that was on mine until I ran the update. For whatever reason, it kept resetting to default and the new one doesn't. The only important thing missing from the new one is the reverse scrolling and with the ETDAniConf I have "reversed the reverse" and everything is just how I want it.

Perfect! Thanks. Same thing happens with a few other apps so this tip was a godsend.

.

I get it. I am not so well organized about my install folders but you may have shamed me into clearing them out from time to time so this will be a good habit to get into.

Totally clear, thank you. On a past W8 machine I have made some hacks to the registry to adjust the touch screen settings, though I never found a guide for what settings to use to, say, reduce the speed of intertial scrolling, so I just did trial and error, which I guess is kinda risky but it never blew anything up, just frustrating not being sure what values to use and often not getting any noticeable result. Any idea where I can find info for what settings to use to change the touchscreen values to get my intended results? Finally, if I were to just export your RegEdit file for the trackpad, would it work even if there were some new settings added since 2012, or might there be some settings in yours that would screw mine up if I exported them into my registry temporarily?

As you might have gathered from my questions, above, I am not a novie at registry editing, but sometimes I feel I know just enough to be potentially dangerous, though so far no disasters. Making those temporary changes to the trackpad setting in the registry and then setting it back to "normal" is the most adventurous thing I will have done. I think I'll study that process a bit and perhaps get back to you if there is a piece I may be missing. Again, if you could clarify if there are any risks to my using your temporary reg. file to activate all the trackpad settings, I would appreciate that. I don't see why I can't go in and change mine from 0 to 1 and save it, but it would be convenient to use yours since you know it works.

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I ran the calibration routine in the BIOS, starting it at about 90% only by accident, but if you say you can run it from a 100% charge or as low as 10-15% I guess it doesn't matter that much, eh? In any event, it didn't change my full capacity as a % of designed capacity but I guess it will more accurately track my levels as I use it. By the way, let me try to give you a scoop for a change, I use a battery utility called BatteryInfoView and it runs circles around Battery Bar for real time information; a geek's power dashboard if I've ever seen one! It's an executable but I just pin it to my task bar and it's always ready to spring into action.

Not a refurb, but an open box, which had not run one full battery cycle and had only been turned on and off 8 times. I spent a bunch of time on a chat with a Samsung support person and the end of the story was she authorized an RMA to send it to their service depot, but then she told me the turnaround time is 10-14 business days! Between that and what I went through just to get a person who understood the issue, I'm thinking I just live with the 5.5% deficit and chalk it up to someone shipping them a battery from the "B" or "C" bin. Since in every other way the battery is behaving normally and it hasn't budged from 94.5% does that sound like the right move?

Thanks again for all. Jeff

 

I would expect that merging my .REG file should work and be harmless, since even if some values are no longer used, they won't cause any harm. But there could be new settings that won't be revealed.

I suggest just simply exporting your HKCU\Software\Elantech\SmartPadDisplay key from RegEdit to a .REG file (select key, File-Export). Then open that .REG file in Notepad (right-click .REG file, Edit) and change all dword:00000000 values to dword:00000001 and save. Simple as that, it'll take less than 5 mins. Now, anytime you want to use ETDAniConf, just run (Merge) that .REG file first.

Thank you for sharing that tip. I hardly ever look at battery stats myself, and when I do, I use HWiNFO which I use for several other tasks as well. But this sounds like a great tool

Of course it would be ideal if you can persuade Samsung to accept return of just the battery. That way you can keep the laptop and use it on mains, while waiting for the new one. It is worth a try, but I doubt they will do it. John Ratsey has reported how he did an RMA once, based on a poor battery, and received it back with a battery having >100% rated capacity. Only you can decide it it is worth it. There is always the risk of delays or the laptop coming back with some new defect (it happens).

 

Hi everyone

I'm pretty sure this issue has probably already been discussed and I apologize in advance for that, but since I couldn't find an answer I thought I would ask the question again.

What browsers are folks using on their AB9+ with the QHD display setting? Here's my take:

--Chrome--
Speed: Excellent
Two finger scrolling: Very Good
Text rendering: Average

-- Firefox --
Speed: Good
Two finger scrolling: Very laggy / unusable
Text rendering: Excellent

-- Internet Explorer --
Speed: Slowish
Two finger scrolling: Excellent
Text rendering: Excellent

To me, text rendering and 2 finger scrolling are the most important features so I'm stuck with using IE (even though its a little slow) since Firefox is awful for two finger trackpad scrolling and Chrome has poor text rendering compared to IE even with hidpi scaling enabled.

Does everyone feel the same way? Has anyone managed to get Chrome to REALLY work as well as IE or Firefox in QHD mode?

Thanks

 

Is / has anyone else had a problem with their keyboard--- namely keys not working on the first depress? I have to hit -- especially the space bar with a full intentional mindful stroke in order for it to execute on depress. Any thoughts beyond a hardware issue?

 

Try the chrome canary channel and enable hidpi through the registry hack. It should be as sharp as IE.

Sent from my KatKiss JB TF101

 

On Firefox there's an add-on called "Yet Another Smooth Scrolling 3.17 which gives you complete control over the smoothness, speed and acceleration of two-finger scrolling. Using it (after tweaking the adjustments) I find it scrolls every bit as smoothly as IE. At first I had some problems with FF too and it made me realize that I've become so accustomed/dependent on FF over the years that I would do anything to get it to work right. I think you'll find this add-on does the trick. I find it best to set the two "smoothness" settings fairly high and set the step size and acceleration pretty low. Let us know how it works for you.

 

That would be ideal. I can't say I trust Samsung with my pristine, otherwise perfectly functioning machine. One concern would be that they have pretty severe warnings about opening the machine voiding the warranty. I'll have to ask John how it went for him. Thanks.

 

Hey have you guys checked if you have auto display management mode in display settings. I have three K03 models and one does not have this feature it is the one that turns yellows down to like a mustard color to save battery life.

 

It is not unusual on brand new laptops, that some keys need a little wear to work smoothly. Some adjusting on the user's side may be needed too. But if the problems persist, I would consider it reason for an RMA: It will drive you crazy if half your spaces don't register.

That case with John's battery was either last year or even earlier. Although Samsung officially void warranty if the machine has been opened, in reality it is hardly ever an issue, as long as the original components are re-installed before sending it in, and there are no visible defects or marks caused by the user having opened it. I do remember one or two reports of users being denied warranty because of cracks or other signs of rough handling by users.

That is indeed strange. The prime suspect should be the version of Settings used on each unit. Next should be whether Samsung's yellow patch (discussed and linked earlier in this thread) was installed on each of them.

 

Well they all have the same settings but I do think the yellow patch was installed now how do we uninstall it.

 

I think you want it INSTALLED (not UNinstalled). Search this thread for yellow patch, you should be able to find it easily.

 

No I actually want that option like the others so I can decide for myself when I want yellows to be yellow. I really hope this is not a patch you install and can't go back because I did a clean install of windows so I don't get how it would stick unless it changed some firmware.

 

OK, I see. I don't have this model myself, so I cannot speak to the details. But there was much talk of mustard when the AB9+ first came out, until that patch was posted by Samsung. Again, if you search this thread for "yellow patch" or "mustard" that discussion may provide more insight.

I suppose you could backup the Windows partition (using SRS or a partition imaging tool) before you test the patch on one of your units. That way you can quickly get back if you don't want the patch -- and if simply uninstalling it doesn't work.

 

I'm having some problems with the mouse cursor when trying to play games on this laptop.

In some eg. Dota 2, in any resolution other than native the size of the cursor goes really large, its still playable, but hugely offputting.

In another (Dawn of War 1) the cursor goes away entirely, invisible, making it unplayable.

I know this isnt a gaming laptop at all, but I had hoped to be able to play some on very low graphics//resolution.

Anyone else had these issues and found a way to get around them?

 

Yeah I guess I will just keep like this I was trying to get the best battery life and I thought the yellows being turned down had an affect on that but it can't be that much I guess I don't want to reinstall windows again. I average about 7 hours streaming music, web, and rdp is most of what I do.

 

I'm looking for a 512GB M.2 SSD and there's not a lot of choice.

The reviews of the Crucial M550 didn't look great for idle power consumption.
I can't see any evidence of the Crucial MX100 M.2 being released soon.
Various others such as the Toshiba HG6 are impossible to obtain.

There's a fairly new Transcend MTS800 512GB SSD stocked by a few places, but I can't find any reviews. Does anyone have any experience of this one, or any others that are worth buying?

Thanks.

 

so got my mini hdmi to hdmi adapter which cost like 2 bucks on ebay sucks that Samsung couldn't just put a full hdmi and don't include the adapter for a 1300 dollar computer might cost them like a dollar I mean they think Ethernet is more important. I bet they didn't want to pay the hdmi royalty twice or something like that.

Anyway scaling on my second 1080p monitor is just stupid, IE which I already knew does this can't seem to figure out a decent resolution so if my laptop is at 250 zoom the 1080p it somehow guess that 375 would be great which makes no kind of sense. And the toolbar/titlebar for ie is super large but explorer and other programs are normal I don't get it.

 

Go round the edge of any sticky keys with a very small screwdriver to (i) make sure the key sits centrally in the hole and (ii) rub off any excess paint that is causing the key to be a tight fit. I have a distant memory that, when new one of the keys (probably the space bar) on one of my notebooks would spring up with a delay. However, the problem disappeared long ago.

I would clarify that the battery in question was for the NP900X3B. The original battery was a few % short of the design capacity when new and then slowly lost capacity. Some other NP900X3B users also had significant battery wear and arranged for their batteries to be replaced. After about 10 months I ran the battery calibration to check the battery and the wear increased so I ran some more calibration cycles which further pushed up the wear (a clear indication of a sick battery) and then arranged for the battery to be replaced under warranty. The bonus was that Samsung had discontinued that original NP900X3B battery and the replacement was the NP900X3C battery which has about 10% more capacity.

My concluding advice for all notebook owners is to check their battery health before the end of the warranty period (normally 1 year for batteries). Also keep a copy of any advertising claims about the battery longevity.

John

 

Hey guys I am having a hell of a time and I am lost with installing my Crucial M550.

I have 3 different adaptors and nothing is working

Under Disk Management, Initialize is greyed out ... HELP!!! I want to get this sucker working as I spent $500

 

I suggest you boot into Samsung Recovery Solution (F4 immediately after power-on) then use the Copy Disk option there. It won't take long, and will preserve everything on the new SSD.

If you have a spare 32GB USB stick (16GB may be enough on your model) you can make a factory image in there as well with Make Boot Disk enabled. This can save you from having to swap the original SSD back in if your system ever gets messed up.

 

7 hours is really quite good. I take it that's extrapolating from partial use and capacity drain, not using it from 100% to shutdown (which I don't recommend you do, except perhaps once or twice a year to calibrate the battery)? That said, which tool are you using to calculate the 7 hour run time and what configuration do you have? (I may have some ideas, depending on your answers to those - I have lately been doing thesis-caliber study on AB9+ battery capacity and run times!)

Mine doesn't turn yellows into mustard on battery either. I have read in places that even with the fix for that installed that it would leave the color inaccuracies on battery simply because correctly rendering bright colors does increase power usage, but I'm not sure that's true - ie, that even with the fix installed you should still be getting mustard yellows on battery. Something worth playing with to see if any settings materially change battery usage would be to change the color settings in the Samsung "Settings" control panel (Fn/F1). I tend to leave mine on "Movie Bright" because I just like the brightest possible screen and I find the AB9+ to have disappointingly low brightness at maximum and visually the "movie bright" setting seems to tweak the brightness of the backlight a bit. But you might want to pick the setting that visually shows the most dim looking image and check the impact of that on battery run time - **

A few other things if you're looking to maximize battery run time**:

1) use that Samsung "Settings" control panel (FN/F1) and under Power Management check the "Eco Mode" box. I'm not entirely sure what it does beyond lowering screen brightness (which you can offset by using the FN/F3 to re-brighten to your preference), but I would guess it does a number of the kinds of things you can do manually in Power settings on the Windows power control panel, some of the most useful of which for me have been:

1) Set wifi and graphics to "Maximum Power Saving"
2) Set cooling to "Passive"
3) Set maximum processor to around 30%

And, in Intel Graphics control panel, reduce screen refresh rate from default 60hz to 40 hz (only other setting available) - this alone can get you close to an hour more run time, depending on how much video you are running. What's best about this one is that, even if you are watching video, you really won't notice a difference unless you're watching very high fps "action" video or sports, and even then it will probably be negligible.

I would guess that some of the things the Samsung "Eco Mode" setting does are included in my list above (which is not exhaustive, btw, there are plenty of articles you can Google to get many more, though I think these - particularly the screen brightness - are the most useful.

** For any adjustments you may want to try to increase battery run times you will be most successful if you have a good utility that shows - in close to real time - the effect on wattage drawn of any incremental change you try. I find Battery Bar entirely inadequate for this task; it takes as much as several minutes to recalculate power consumption and not only is that like watching paint dry, but by the time it registers change in power draw other things going on in the background may be changing power consumption as much as the step you took to reduce it. I am very impressed with a battery/power real time "dashboard" that shows you - in 30 second intervals if you wish! - what your power consumption is and to quickly see the impact on power consumption of incremental changes, such as lowering screen darkness, reducing number of open browser windows, even engaging the Eco Mode (something I keep meaning to do but haven't!). It's called BatteryInfoView and you don't install it, just run it once and pin it to your taskbar, desktop or wherever is convenient.

Good luck and, by all means report any successes (or failures!) you find if you try any steps to improve battery run time.

 

Yeah for me 9 hours is good, but have not hit that yet maybe 7 1/2 I measure because I work on my laptop all day so I start at 8am and just see how long it can get. I usually am always streaming music or my slingbox brightness is almost all the way down because I work in the dark almost. Its better that my vizio which got like 5 but not MacBook level. I gave up on the yellows thing because I must of installed the patch thinking it was something else but yellows are really yellow on my screen same as when power is plugged in. I am just learned that there was a fn lock totally overlooked that was upset Samsung didn't have a utility but this is better.

Only issue for me is just stupid windows dpi scaling and running at full resolution 3200x1800 it just works for some things others do not. If remote desktop worked perfect I would be not as upset I have to use remote connection manager which is almost the same just have to do some tweaks. Kinda should of got the 8gb model as I am almost maxing out ram and running hyper v will be an issue later for me doing a lot. I mean I am used to it my vizio was the same 4gb 128gb ssd. I would by an bigger ssd but I know it will cause the fans to kick in more as it will get hotter same thing happened to me when I bought the Samsung evo for my vizio. This is why Samsung don't even use there own ssd in this laptop Toshiba's run cooler by a few degrees.

two apps I found and love are mysms so you can my calls and sms from your computer and all your devices are all sync'd and hyper youtube which lets me stream youtube and only play audio. Even though I have been using windows 8 since it came it out I really see it's pretty good they just gotta fix these dpi issues and so do people like adobe I don't want to run at lower resolution.

 

Did you screw down the SSD so it lies flat in the adapter? There should be a flat-headed screw that holds down the end of the card.

If not, then it may not be properly connecting electronically.

John

 

Hi
Haven't posted on here in a while and not sure if this is the right place but here goes....
Am looking to get my son a new laptop for school and want one that will last the school day, so around 6 hrs i guess.
Last year got my wife a Chronos 7 Series with touchscreen - awesome laptop, can't fault it, especially the 10hr battery life. Anyway, have my eye on an Ativ Book 9 for my son but can't decide between the Lite and the Plus. I know the AB9+ is way better than the Lite (similar to the chronos in many ways) but it is TWICE the price of the Lite. If it was for me I'd have to have the AB9+ because I do a lot of heavy stuff in work and would need the extra power but my son is only going to use it for email, internet, and some school project stuff which mainly means light use of office applications. He's not a gaming freak either so no need to worry about that.
It's the classic dilemma of Heart (AB9+) -v- Head (Lite)!!
Advice/comments appreciated.
Thanks
Rob

 

Hahahahahahahaha.

I think I've found a counter-intuitive but effective solution to heat and noise.

Steps:
(1) Get your scotch tape out.
(2) Block the air vents underneath the chassis with the tape.
(3) ????
(4) Profit!

I've learned the fan noise is primarily caused by the air sucking into the fans from the underneath the chassis.
so blocking it helps to get rid of the noise.

Also, blocking the air flowing from underneath the chassis actually helped the laptop to stay cooler.
The air underneath is not particularly cooler than the air inside. In fact, feeding the warm/hot air into the chassis was one reason why my laptop stayed hot. So while the lid is open, the hot air inside the laptop gets pushed out through the vents near the hinge, and no hot air is sucked into the device.

If you think about it, macbook airs have only one fan and they have no vents underneath the chassis.

One caveat is that when the lid is closed, there are no vents visible to push out the air from the inside, and so the overall temp is about 2-3'C higher.

 

@lovelaptops how do you set the refresh rate to 40? I only see 60.

 

Blocking the bottom vents may have limited impact on temperatures under light usage conditions but what happens when the CPU gets loaded (eg the wPrime 1024 benchmark)?

John

 

You might want to take a look at the NP900X3G model that should be priced between the Lite and the AB9+. But for office, mail and internet the Lite gets the job done as well.

Before you take that drastic measures I recommend using the silent mode + Throttlestop 6.0 workaround. Silent mode will rise the temperature treshold for fan activity by 10C and Throttlestop can override the 800Mhz limitation to any clockspeed you find appropriate.

 

i've already tried that option a long time ago, silent mode + throttlestop 6.0

currently, i just simply limit the max cpu utilization to 45%-65% instead of using a separate app like throttlestop.

for the time being, i noticed that only the left vent makes loud noise whereas the right vent does not, so i decided to keep blocking the left vent only, and no taping for the right vent.

unlike np900 series where the vents were placed more towards the edge of the laptop, the vents for np940x3g are placed way too center/middle of the bottom chassis -- not enough cool air flowing.

well those are just my thoughts. no scientific proof of course.


EDIT:

the silent mode does NOT increase the fan kicking in threshold.

on battery fan kicks in at around 60'C
while plugged fan kicks in at around 56'C

regardless of which power option you choose: silent (low / auto) and off (+whichever profile)


I am more curious as to what you guys get for cpu temp.
I use realtemp to monitor the temp, and I see that even at idle, my cpu temp is at around 42-45'C and quickly reach 55'C, browing the web and beyond 60'C while playing 1080p youtube videos, and scrolling a lot.

things go worse if i use chrome (stays at around 55'C), instead of internet explorer (stays at around 50'C).

I wonder if my unit is defective in terms of heat generation.

 

interestingly, as noted, the laptop stayed cooler and dropped temps more quickly than when the vents were not blocked. but when the lid is closed, the ventilation is obviously suffered and so i decided to keep one vent blocked and the other one not blocked.

 

Maybe I misunderstood you, but just to clarify for everybody:

1) Silent Mode is ENABLED whenever it is set to AUTO or LOW. The CPU will be capped at it's lowest speed (regardless of Max CPU setting in the profile, unless ThrottleStop is used), and the Power Saver profile will be activated (switching to Passive system cooling). The difference between AUTO and LOW is only whether the fan is kept running at a permanent low speed (LOW) or turned on/off by temps (AUTO).

2) Silent Mode is DISABLED only when it is set to OFF in Settings (or toggled off with Fn-F11). This will un-throttle the CPU and revert to the Samsung Optimized profile (or whichever profile was used before Silent Mode was enabled).

Samsung's naming is unintuitive: Many user keep Silent Mode on AUTO, thinking it will switch on/off automatically as required to keep a quiet computer. In reality this will just keep it running at its lowest speed -- regardless of what you do with the power profiles.

 

Completely in line with what I've observed so far. This is unfortunate that we cannot change the fan kicking in threshold. All I need is an extra 5'C room.

 

Yes, I gathered as much when I re-read your post. But Silent Mode is such a classic cause of confusion, it is worth repeating the basics regularly

As for adjusting the Samsung fan tables, I don't remember seeing any successful reports of that. There is mention of an unlocked BIOS (for an earlier model) in our BIOS rollback thread, but I forget if fan tables were discussed.

 

Loptimistk I apologize and stand corrected. I've only had my AB9+ for two weeks and had yet to explore the Intel HD control panel and when I did, to give you "directions" I found that Samsung has taken away the 40hz leaving only 60, which is particularly weird because the color management cp has a drop down for refresh rate, but when you drop it down the only option is the defaut, 60hz! I know it's not a Windows 8/8.1 or Haswell thing, as I Too bad for us. They took away the ability to drop color bandwidth from 32/16 bit and left it similarly stuck on 32 beginning, I believe, with Ivy Bridge/4000HD graphics adaptor settings; that too was a great power saver, though I usually did them both together (the 40hz and 16 bit) so I'm not really sure if one or the other plays a greater role in power reduction, but together they saved 10% - 20% power/battery usage and for the most part there was no noticeable change for the worse of the image/video display quality.

I'm guessing there is probably a registry hack for each of these settings, if not both, but I don't have an inclination right now to look into it - by all means, Google it if you are so inclined and let us know what you find. Just an aside, but there's a guy from Germany called "Pyr0" who used to be extremely active on he Sony forum, especially threads dealing with the "legendary" Z1 (Spring 2010) and Z2 (Summer 2012, I think - note: I still own and use almost daily the above-cited models. Anyway, Pyr0 is a very talented programmer who loves to tinker and hack and he found that there was a wealth of functionality adjustments "locked into" the BIOS of each of these and published BIOS hacks for each of the two models which allowed for all kinds of additional power settings, fan settings, screen adjustments, etc. I bring this up only to see if I can entice someone with the skill set, time available and desire to change the world , if only in a small way .

Though each mfr handles it differently, I have been amazed at how many options were hidden away in the BIOS/Windows registry, especially on Sony's (now a "former" computer mfr ) premium models. Example: it turned out that the screen backlight settings for the Z1 (and only the Z1!) were incredibly conservative. There were 8 registry settings that enabled you to change the rate at which the backlight increased/decreased and the top setting was nearly 50% higher than the stock setting that the computers shipped with, which meant going from a top brightness of 280 nit to over 400! What's amazing is that I never read in any professional reviews about this capability and they all rated the maximum at around 280 nit. I have a hunch there is a similar way to "unleash" the full 350 nit brightness Samsung quotes in their lit when all the professional tests I have seen register around 260-280 max brightness.

Sorry to turn your simple question into a major "lecture" on the subject of hidden adjustments - and for having misled you in my earlier post about the ability to lower the refresh rate "easily." especially when I know of none - except the one that Dannemd provided as an adjunct to the standard Elan touchpad settings which is enormously useful.

I'll try to poke around Google, Anadtech and numerous high quality tech sites to see if I can't come up with a straightforward way. Best, Jeff

 

@lovelaptops

Thanks for your response. Yea I like the hidden functions for Elan touchpad as well. I also made a few scripts to be loaded when making multi-finger gestures on the touchpad. Though, many functions were already built in as you could find inside the .ini file for the touchpad drivers, I needed a few extra.

Anyhow, monitor wise, I've tried pstrip, intel's custom resolution modder, and a few others but it turns out that given that Intel HD does not support direct write of some stuff (I already forgot) for changing monitor properties, I don't think we have an easy way to override the Intel/Samsung's defined options for the monitor.

Btw. I live close to Arlington, VA.

@Dannemand

FAN wise, I am just curious about whether having the Silent Mode enabled on LOW indeed lower the temp by at least one or two degrees.

At least, at the cost of consistent humming sound from the fans as they never turn off on LOW mode, I don't hear the sudden burst of fan noise when they start to kick in as the temp passes 55'C.

 

I agree. If the fans are annoyingly loud (they aren't on mine, but it's a different model) LOW is a good setting when in Silent Mode. A low, constant white noise is less obtrusive; but also, it can only be beneficial for CPU health to keep a more permanent low temp, compared to cycles of heating and cooling.

 

Already did that, nothing shows up as attached

Already did that, I am an electrician.

New device shows up as in my pictures and no further progress... still needing the cure all

 

Couple of suggestions -- which you may have already tried as well:

1) Try the adapter in different USB ports and/or on another computer.

2) See if Minitool Partition Wizard will let you initialize the SSD (Google it). If so, make it GPT. Now see Samsung Recovery Solution can detect it.

If none of this works, I suppose it is quite possible that you have either a defect adapter or a defect SSD.

 

I guess someone has to be the guinea pig, so I've ordered a Transcend MTS800 512GB SSD (TS512GMTS800) for my ATIV Book 9 Plus.

Does anyone want me to do any particular before/after benchmarking or power consumption tests?

 

Thanks for the advice. The NP900X3G is a nice machine, but still a little pricey. For what my son needs I think the Lite should be fine.

 

Yeah I was looking into that drive as well, for me speed is not really my concern just power if it eats up more battery life and makes the fans come on more.

Let me know what you sell your current drive for if your going to sell it on eBay I was hoping it would sell for 90

 

The more measurements the better and you can see my SSD review for some inspiration.

I note that Transcend claim only 310MB/s write speed which is low by current standards for high capacity SSDs but will probably be a lot better than what you have now.

See if you can do some form of comparative power consumption with your current SSD. Idle power consumption is an area where the Crucial M500 / M550 has caused a lot of anguish.

John

 

any thoughts on "horizontal" scrolling? i feel like i saw it working on my machine before, but now it is not working... horizontal scrolling is enabled in the ETDAniConf :/

 

TBH, you'd be better served picking up a discounted or slightly used X3C, X3E, X3F at a similar price to the lite.

edit: That is unless your son wants a touch screen. Then perhaps the Lenovo Yoga is the best bet. I think best buy often has a good price on them.

 

I have to agree. The 9 Lite has nothing in common with the other 9s except the model number and a vague approximate eqivalency of the shape - but in plastic. Check out a couple of reviews ;they're mediocre at best. I'm not saying it's a bad deal for the $ (Don't know what it costs!) but besides older models og the Ativ 9 you might find some non-Samsung models on sale that are a better bet.

 

So I've tried messing around with the settings in the "yet another smooth scrolling" addon in firefox for several hours but cant get it to match the smoothness of IE or Chrome. Would anyone mind sharing what settings for smoothness, step size speed and acceleration have worked for them?

Thanks

 

Webcam issue?

Hi,
I just got the Ativ 9 with the i7 processor to replace my aging 2010 macbook pro. Generally happy with it, but I am not sure that my webcam is working properly. The images are soft and slightly blurry. I couldn’t find any settings in the camera app to adjust (other than aspect ratio and refresh rate). I compared it with my old macbook pro under same light and the Ativ 720p webcam has softer images than the macbook pro. I was hoping to get better image quality with the 720p webcam. I called the Samsung helpline and updated everything as they have suggested and made sure that the lens is clean. They logged into my machine, but said they cannot verify if the images are up to the mark. Is there any webcam settings (other than in skype or camera app) that I could try? What’s your experience with image quality on this machine?
Thanks a lot

 

Blue NP940X3G??

I have recently come upon an ad for a "barely used" KO5 version - i7/8GB/256GB that a friend wanted my opinion on. For his benefit, I am not going to post the link until he decides go/nogo.

All of the questions were answered satisfactorily and the lister claims to be the first owner, etc.

When I asked about the odd bright blue (!) color in his photo (below) he said it is not from unusual lighting, but an accurate reflection (no pun intended!) of the color of the case, claims there were quite a few of them in the market earlier.

Does anyone know anything about this? Thanks, Jeff

 

Yeah it only looks that blue in the photo its kinda cool it looks black in low light and blue it bright light but they are all the same color which is mineral ash black. Nothing to be concerned about but if he did have one that color would be pretty valuable as its one of a kind.