2013 Series 7 chronos / Ativ Book 8 15" owner's lounge (NP770Z5E / NP780Z5E / NP870Z5E / NP880Z5E)

It sounds like the Bluetooth device itself is working fine, it's some of the other 150MB bloat included with Intel's Bluetooth software that causes this.

You could try and uninstall the Samsung Bluetooth software completely (and any other Bluetooth software you may have installed, including with the controller) and use just Windows' own Bluetooth drivers and software.

Also, you could try deleting the Bluetooth Radio in device manager and have it re-detect it (reboot or "Scan for hardware changes").

Both of these will require you set up and pair devices again.

I seem to recall you made a new install recently. If so, do you remember which drivers you installed and from which sources? And which Windows version? My memory is terribly, I apologize if I remember this wrong.

 

Hi! It seems that I'm also experiencing troubles with certain Bluetooth connectivity. This sort of behaviour began after upgrading to Windows 8.1, that's why I figured it has something to do with drivers used. First I couldn't upgrade drivers normally through SW Update because I kept getting Error -10 but that could be managed and I installed them manually.
I'm having problems when I want to use my Steelseries's Free Mobile controller but not when I send or receive data to my phone or vice-versa. It's odd since controller mentioned will be recognized under settings and device manager (which says that device is working properly).

Also, device manager displays an error for Generic Bluetooth Adapter and below you can read what it says under it's properties.

Device could not be started. (Code 10)

{Operation Failed}
The requested operation was unsuccessful.

I don't think that adapter is broken or anything as suggested on some forums while googling for this code, but it somehow prevents the controller to function as it should. I had also written to Steelseries but they just copy their FAQs and such which don't help me. If anyone had similiar problems and could help me or tell me which drivers resolved their issues I'll be very grateful.

 

I think this is a very different problem from that of member Obyboby's, since your device is not working -- either the hardware or (most likely) the drivers.

However, I would suggest you try the same solution: Uninstall any Bluetooth drivers and software you have in the Programs and Features control panel, reboot, and leave Bluetooth to Windows' built-in drivers. Install any updates offered by Windows Update.

The only feature you are likely to miss by not having the Samsung (or Intel) Bluetooth package installed, is the ability to toggle Bluetooth on/off in Charms-Settings-PC Settings. You can simply disable the Bluetooth Adapter in Device Manager instead (that's what the toggle does anyway).

If the the Bluetooth Adapter doesn't show up correctly in Device Manager after getting rid of the Samsung/Intel drivers, then try deleting it in Device Manager and reboot again.

Of course this is all assuming you have the Intel 6235 WiFi adapter (all Z5Es have that, to my knowledge). Some members replaced it with a newer adapter for which Windows may not have a built-in driver.

 

Hi Guys,
So I am having trouble playing League of Legends without the game lagging. This lag is not due to the internet, but the cpu. I notice that when it lags my utilization goes way down to about 3% in game. I also have noticed that my CPU speed is regularly around 2.8 GHz when playing the game, but drops at the points of the lag. I have tried to research possible causes to this, but I could not find anything. The game is usually fine at the beginning, but near the end it definitely slows down. I am not sure why this happens. If anyone knows anything about this that would be great!

 

Use HWiNFO > Sensors to check the CPU temperature and whether it is starting to throttle after sustained use.

John

 

Hello,

I received my ATIV book 8 two days ago and I am concerned about the best way to maintain battery health, as it's not removable, and I can't just remove it and leave the machine plugged in; as I will use it mainly in-doors, so what's the best advice? thank you very much.

 

Hi. I currently use a Samsung Series Chronos S01FR. Since the day I bought it I haven't had any problem except the keyboard backlighting issue and the tremendous lag when I use the metro apps (weather, store, sports, etc).
Everything worked ok as long as I didn't use Metro apps. Then 4 months ago I got quit some lag when simply using desktop progams and bowing through file menus and it pretty much calmed down when I uninstalled intelli memory. However since the latest windows update I experience severe slowdowns. I need around 3 minutes between booting it up and surfing on google. Whenever i browse through my user folders it takes ages. Idem when I use the search box to start a program. The settings program where you can manage display, soundalive, bluetooth etc is also particularly lagging.
To give more detail, I also have since maybe 2 months ago problems with video paying in general. 1/10 I open a video with the windows media soft, I get chromatic nightmare on my screen (color stripes everywhere) that only disappear when I restart the laptop. When I watch vids on youtube or dailymotion through FIrefox I also get frequent lags.
Am I the only guy experiencing this and what could be the problem in your opinion ?
(all the hardware has stayed untouched since day one).

Thanks for your help.

 

Up to mid-2013 the Samsung BIOS included Battery Life Extender which limited the battery charge to 80%. You can look in Settings to see if the BLE option is there.

Otherwise, the best thing is to just leave the computer plugged in continuously unless you need to use it on battery. Once the the battery reaches 100% then charging stops until either (i) the charge drops by several percent (I haven't figured out the trigger value) or you pull out the mains power then plug it in again (in which case the computer assumes it has been used on battery (which may be true) and then plug it in again).

Apart from a batch of bad batteries for the NP900X3B there have been few problems with Samsung notebook batteries in the past two years but it is prudent to not inflict unnecessary discharge /recharge cycles (you can probably check the cycle count using BatteryBar). However, it is also prudent to run the battery calibration in the BIOS after about 10 months so you can check if there is abnormal wear and then ask for the battery to be replaced under warranty.

John

 

i had same problems, even now when teamfight starts i get lag spikes, installing win 8.1 did some better, but still its not as it should be on this graphich, i mean its not high end game, it should have constant fps. I am not sure if its cpu or gpu, but i have tried everything

 

Thank you for your reply!

I have already tried the first step you suggested, I will try to delete and re-scan for the BT Radio in Device manager. That will hopefully work. And no, I have my Windows 8 USB device ready to do a clean install, but haven't proceeded yet. I'm a bit concerned about the OEM key, I'm afraid it won't be accepted after all the procedure

 

Thank you John for your quick reply,

I didn't find the BLE option you mentioned, although I know about it, I am also concerned that setting the maximum charge to 80% would reduce the run time capacity in case I want to use my notebook out-doors,
I take your word, as keeping the notebook plugged in seems to me the best option right now, this won't harm the battery, or the harm is less than what's done if I charge then discharge..etc.

 

I am trying to understand which guide is the right one for me, to do a clean install of WIn 8 WITHOUT LOSING RECOVERY PARTITIONS.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sam...s-8-samsung-series-9-laptops.html#post9104421

This post, linked from the first page of this thread, allows to do a clean install deleting the recovery partitions, which I don't want to lose.
Can anyone help me find the right tutorial to simply delete my OS partition and start with a clean install while keeping the recovery partitions safe? Thank you! (gotta run now, will be back soon to search, but if someone could help me out in the meantime, that would be much appreciated)

 

Samsung claimed they had dropped BLE because of improved battery technology but, more likely, some users were complaining about the shorter battery run time (which you evidently appreciate). There are people who think they can have both (this also applies to Silent Mode where people get surprised that lower fan activity results in a slower computer).

I'm 99.9% confident that just leaving the computer plugged in will help the battery maintain its capacity than frequent draining and recharging. My NP900X4C is about 21 months old and the battery is like new (but has had the benefit of BLE).

John

 

Hi did you ever resolve this? Is this a common issue? I had no problem using 16 GB with clean 8.1 install late last year but checked after 8.1 update and now OS is only reporting 8 GB. It may have happened a little before the 8.1 update but I just noticed it now...

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

 

A couple of people have reported that they heard back from Samsung who acknowledged there is a bug in the latest BIOS.

Run the BIOS Update program and see if your BIOS is newer than the newest in the database (which would indicate that the problem has reached the BIOS tram and they have pulled the last update from the database).

John

 

Thanks John! Will wait for the fix then

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mine is P04ABZ, anyone else has that version? it says its latest

 

I have the np880z5e-x01nl and mine bios version is P04ADH

 

Got it, thank you for the update.

Do NOT use the install guide in that link, nor the one here. They both have you switch to Legacy BIOS mode (CSM, disabling UEFI) which will cause your disk to be wiped and lose Recovery (as you correctly pointed out).

Unfortunately we do not have an elaborate Win8.x UEFI based install guide similar to this one which is mostly for Win7, although it also covers Win8.

But this post pretty much covers the most important. Come to think of it, let me quote it here to make things easier:

As for choice drivers, this post has general guidance for Win8.

When it comes to Win8.1, I am afraid I cannot tell you exactly which drivers to use from SW Update and which ones might be better from Windows Update. As I just posted to member Shrink here, I found Microsoft's graphics drivers for Intel and AMD work perfectly on my older Series 7, including switchable graphics, but you'll have to scour this thread for advice with the NP770/780/870/880.

Hope that is some help. Let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you so much I have already read those posts and yeah, the fact that NTFS formatted USB sticks are not allowed for UEFI clean installations was stopping me. In fact, I have both win 8 and 8.1 ISOs ready to use for a clean install, but I need to find a way to create the bootable stick formatted in FAT32 mode.

Regarding the drivers for Win 8.1, I'm not much worried: I will find out as soon as I have my OS ready. The only thing to fix is the FAT32 format for the USB stick now.

 

You're in top of this, I can hear that. One of the (numerous) posts I linked ( here) mentions Rufus and ISO2Disc as alternatives for creating the USB install source. With Rufus, one member reported you still have to format the stick as FAT32 first, although it may have been an older version.

 

I made it!!! I installed Win 8.1 clean and activated it using my Win 8 OEM key!!!!!! yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

Will test a bit here and there and then, if everything works fine, will post a tutorial for y'all!! Yay I'm so glad i did it

PS before starting, I was even able to create a factory backup image on my SANDISK Extreme 32GB flashdrive, unlike mentioned by another user (who said that sandisk and usb3 flash drives are not suitable for this kind of operation). (Still, I havent' tried to restore that factory image in order to check whether the backup really worked)

edit: got SWUpdate to work together with brightness and other things. Works like a charm!!!!

Still have to try switchable graphics though. Going to get some sleep now, will get back to my lappy tomorrow afternoon.

 

So I have installed this software, and I have noticed that the graphics that is listed are the integrated graphics... I am looking at the temperatures and the all to be around 70 C when playing the game, I also noticed that when in the game, when it starts to lag the GPU fan says 0 RPM... could this be possible? I am unsure as to why this is happening. Thanks

Keenan

 

I see, Thank you very much for your informative replies, I think I'll just leave it plugged in to reduce the charge-discharge cycles, however, yesterday when I used it for the first time plugged in; I noticed that fans are working at full speed, didn't slow down, I was watching a movie, and doing some surfing, I didn't notice any abnormal heat, though, just relatively loud fans, what is the meaning of it? it didn't get this audible and fast when I used it on battery.

 

70C is relatively cool for the system under load and well clear of the threshold for thermal throttling (usually 90C or more). I wouldn't worry about the GPU fan speed as long as you can feel the hot air coming out of the exhaust - it may not be being detected properly.

So I wonder if the issue is with the switchable graphics but I can't help you there (it's an extra complication which I deliberately avoid).

Are you using the Samsung Optimized power profile or did you select Maximum Performance? I recommend the former since the latter can generate more heat for a negligible improvement in responsiveness.

Which CPU? TurboBoost is disabled when running on battery but the extra heat generated when TurboBoost is enabled can get the fans busy. I suggest you (i) run HWiNFO which makes it easy to monitor the CPU speed (there's a nice dynamic speed display) and temperatures and (ii) use Task Manager to check what is using the CPU (note that for a dual core CPU, one thread running continuously = 25% load (and, I assume, = 12.5% on a quad core CPU)).

If the movie is Flash based then right click on it and change the hardware acceleration option.

John

 

Thank you for the update. Good job there! And yes, it would be great if you can post a guide.

I am surprised that you were able to complete the Factory Image backup on a Sandisk USB3 flash drive. You are sure you selected the Create boot disk option? Does the flash drive show up in Windows Explorer (under Computer/This PC) as a Removable Drive? Does it boot? I will be very interested to know.

It was never the SanDisk brand that caused any problems, but rather that Recovery insists on flash drives that behave as Removable drives (not as Fixed disks) when using that Create boot disk option. But as reported by member bel90 in this thread, SanDisk were the first to begin making flash drives that behave as Fixed disks, apparently in order to obtain Microsoft Win8 certification ( see this).

Of course Samsung will have to fix this incompatibility in Samsung Recovery Solution -- maybe they already have in the latest versions.

In any case do I not recommend that you use this USB backup to re-image your drive unless (A) it is a new drive, not the original one, or (B) the drive you are re-imaging no longer has a working Recovery on it. The reason being not to risk losing a good, working Recovery with a bad backup. Of course you can test that the backup will boot, just don't proceed with the restore.

I realize that you knew all this already, I am just including it here for completeness.

 

Please someone help me find the right catalyst drivers.. I've spent countless hours reinstalling various versions of it, but they all seem to have drawbacks. All I want is to make my 8870m work at it's full potential, but I notice that with some drivers I get dropped framerates (13.9whql for example, which otherwise would be a good one) in games like metro ll, thief and the likes, where the stock driver had better performance. I also tried the newest beta ones (14.3 and 14.4), but then I get an insane screen flicker in league of legends, which makes the game unplayable.. It didn't flicker with the 13.9, but only had like 90fps on very high settings, whereas 14.3 gave me almost 150.. I know that I don't need more than 60fps for this screen, but it still means that the performance is compromised, and other more demanding games would suffer from that. The stock driver also gives screen flickers and a bit less framerate than 14.3, i think. So I just can't find the right driver which does it all normally and uses my gpu at 99-100% when I need it. I just want to fix it and forget about it for once. So, which drivers are you guys using and how do they work? Your help is much appreciated!

 

I use the 13.10 drivers you can't fin them on the first page of this treath, those drivers above 13.11 doesent work good with this laptop.

 

Dannemand,

I did choose "create boot disk" when backing up my USB, and everything worked properly. The flash drive was connected to one of my laptop's USB3 ports:



The drive shows up in explorer. (I opened it from another computer and checked its content, and the files present match the ones described by bel90 in the post you linked)
I also tried booting from my USB straight after BIOS, and it worked. Recovery launched without having to press F4 at boot, but as pointed by bel90, the recovery window showed "HDD" as the source for the backup restore. Because of that, I'm still a bit puzzled about whether the backup could be recovered from the USB drive or from inside the SSD (and that would be weird since I have never made any factory image backups on my SSD?)

However, I do still have my original HDD with the untouched factory files, and this USB I have was created just to have a further backup, knowing that windows 8.1 install might be a pain in the back for some users. Fortunately, I used lots of care and the results are satisfying, win 8.1 is on my machine and all the recovery partitions haven't been wiped. F4 recovery correctly launches and seems to be working fine.

I am still out for Easter lunch, but I will try to finish setting up the laptop as soon as possible to check that everything works fine.

And also, I have prepared the tutorial which I will post as soon as it's finished.


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Just to update on my clean install of 8.1 with Spring Update incorporated (ISO from Technet for which I had a valid serial). I backed up the factory image successfully and then clean installed 8.1 after formatting the Windows partition (leaving the others intact). I installed from a FAT32 thumb drive created with Rufus - great utility BTW. The install went great and I ran SW Update right after the update and just installed everything suggested (no bloatware was offered - just drivers). Everything running smoothly and some improvements - for instance the touch sensitivity of my external Viewsonic touchscreen is much improved.

 

Could you list the drivers you installed from SW Update, please? This is what I'm offered at the moment, maybe there is something I can avoid installing to keep my system light

 

I installed everything. You probably don't need Intel IME. Happy Easter!

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

 

Hello
Finally I buyed a samsung 840 EVO 500gb SSD for my NP780Z5E laptop
And my question is how to clone only the os from the hdd to the ssd without any files or programs just like an clean install any reply will help me a lot. Thanks.


Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys, i have the ativ book 8 from bestbuy (ATI 8770) , and today i tried new drivers....

I just wanted to tell you that i m in windows 8 (seems doesnot seem to be any confirmation that 8.1 works perfectly by updating in a regular way) Today i decided to give it a try to the ATI drivers 13.1 from page 1 in the forum, unfortunately i lost switch card option , it appeared some kind of missing thing with catalyst, since im not into strong gaming, it was not a deal for me not to have switch card option, so i decided to go back to the default drivers (before uodating i created a restores point so i went back, so if somebody is thinking about drivers make yourselfs a huge favor a create a restore point before doing it, it just take a couple of minutes). So i tested once i went back and everything is fine and i got back switch card option.

Whta i find strange is that as you may see in the picture attached acording to SW Update my Graphic driver is updated, but its version is 9.3.50 , however, on the first page of this forum seems to be that samsung has a version 12.9 of the drivers, Do you know guys what could be happening in here????




do you guys think that samsung is ever going to update the AMD and INTEL graphics drivers officialy so we do not lose any feature like switch graphic card or widi?

Thank you very much,
have a great day

 

yes I am using the Samsung optimized, I think it was the CPU Turbo boost, thank you John, just one question, I downloaded the BatteryBar you recommended, and it shows that my battery wear is 0.8%. is this normal? I mean, in less than a week, I'm a bit concerned.

 

The wear is probably is a result of your battery having slightly less than the design capacity. Many batteries come out of the factory with slightly more than the design capacity but yours doesn't.

Check the wear from time to time in case it increases. If it does then run the battery calibration in the BIOS. This will often reduce the reported wear but ff the wear increases then you have a sick battery but you may need to get the wear up to around 25% before Samsung will replace it under warranty.

John

 

Thank you. Wow, that's so disappointing. My legendary poor luck.

 

ok i updated some sound drivers, now i have 2 speakers in sound option, 1 is normal speakers and one is the big bass one on the bottom, what went wrong???in device manager there are realtek and intel

 

ok thank you very much John!

Does anyone know anything about this issue? and is anyone else experiencing this? If the graphics aren't switching like they should be?

Keenan

 

nevermin, fixed it. Another question, when i turn on computer, it takes about 2 minutes to start working properly (2 minutes from when desktop is opened), skype for example logs in after 2 minutes and makes that sound, firefox the same, nothing work for first 2 minutes, or it works very slow. I wouldnt expect that from laptop for 1200€. Is it realy the hdd fault for so slow startup?

 

I experience this as well, and I believe that it is due to the HDD... It is not very fast and it takes a long time to start up. If you installed an SSD which a lot of people have, it would help with the boot time. I wish they had put a SSD cache in this computer as it would speed up start up, but oh well.

 

ikr, i cant even close afford ssd now, i am like broke lol. Too bad, any tips how to make this hdd faster?

 

Have you removed Intellimemory from your machine? This software helps make HDDs faster. It should be pre-installed on your laptop, check if it's still there, otherwise re-install it.
Also, using CCleaner, you could disable startup processes you don't need (like automatic software updaters etc)

Can't think of any other possible solutions atm


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This. And defrag.

You can try uninstalling and reinstalling Settings, reboot in between. If using the latest Settings, try disabling System Optimization. Then defrag.

Win8.1 Update 1 seems to have a lot of busy background tasks churning the first few mins after login. It was pretty bad on mine too, even after doing the above. Worse than Win8. Enabling ExpressCache helped a lot (only available on older models) indicating disk speed is the bottleneck. Samsung should have included a small mSATA in these models for the OS.

Did I mention defrag?

 

Hi, I have exactly the same problem - I follow the instructions from the first page, but the new driver just won't install correctly. It appears that only the stock drivers work on my computer and I can only get back to those by using system restore. Even the SW update driver won't install (again I follow instructions on the first page and do complete uninstall of all AMD components before)
BTW, I am on Windows 8
Any ideas how I can update my graphics drivers?

 

yes i have unistall that intel thingy because it was eating like 6gb or ram. My model dont have exresschase sadly. I will try defrag and reinstalling settings, and yes i have 8.1 with update and i notice tons of backround system thingys that eats up hdd. Ill try to install intememory again.

ps: i disabled hyper-v and it seems to get me some better hdd performance, also installed intellimemory, but it doenst seem to work on 8.1

Can someone else with hdd use this tool:
http://www.greatis.com/bootracer/download.htm
to test their boot speed, i got this results:

 

i wanted to install those drivers on first page too, but there is no switchable graphich or drivers installed, tried everything, cant get them to work. now i have 13.251-131206a-166151E-ATI and when i minimize leage of legends its just throws my fps to 50 -.- and lots of other fps drops with this stupid driver

 

WINDOWS 8/8.1 - CLEAN INSTALL TUTORIAL

This tutorial will help those who want to upgrade from Windows 8 (preinstalled on their machine) to Windows 8.1 ,or reinstall Windows 8, by performing a clean install, wiping the old OS, installing and activating the OS using the OEM key that was pre-installed by the manufacturer. This method will preserve those precious Recovery Partitions installed on each machine by Samsung.

NOTE: The following procedure has been tested by myself and worked like a charm on my NP770Z5E-S01 which I upgraded from Windows 8 to 8.1. However, I must advise you that the procedure might not work and you may encounter different errors/issues during the installation. Since we are touching hard drives and wiping data, you are strongly advised that the whole procedure IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK and I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MIGHT BE CAUSED TO YOUR LAPTOP, NOR AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DATA LOSS THAT MAY HAPPEN. You are warned!!

The following tutorial SHOULD work on the following machines:

- 2013 (and newer) Series 7 Chronos / Ativ Book 6/7/8
- Ativ Book 9 SHOULD be supported as well

These laptops are NOT supported:

- Series 7 Chronos earlier than 2013
- Series 5 models that have ExpressCache

What you will need:

- Patience
- Two USB flash drives (I used a 16GB drive for my bootable USB on which I installed the Windows 8/8.1 installation files, and a 32GB stick to perform a Factory Image backup prior to installation)
- An extra flash drive on which you can extract and save the setup files for Windows 8.1 through SW Update prior to formatting, in order to have your drivers and tools ready for offline installation
For this step, you can also use a Memory card, or even a side partition of your main disk. The only critical software needed is the Intel Advanced Centrino N6230/6235 drivers, that would help make your WiFi adapter work. However, these WiFi cards have drivers that are built-in in Windows 8.x, meaning that they should be working straight after formatting, without requiring additional software (this was my case)
- Your Windows 8 OEM key, which can be extracted from your BIOS using tools such as ProduKey
- A Windows 8/8.1 ISO, which you have to retrieve LEGALLY (please do not ask for help on this) - This should match the language and version (Core, Pro, Enterprise, etc) that you originally had installed on your OS, to avoid errors
- A phone that you will use in case the first of the two activation methods would fail
- Windows 8.1 generic keys (for Windows 8 generic keys, please use Google):
Core: 334NH-RXG76-64THK-C7CKG-D3VPT
Professional: XHQ8N-C3MCJ-RQXB6-WCHYG-C9WKB

NOTE: THESE KEYS ARE VALID FOR INSTALLATION ONLY, NOT FOR ACTIVATION. YOU MUST OWN A VALID, PURCHASED LICENSE IN ORDER TO FULLY ACTIVATE YOUR OPERATING SYSTEM!

To get the installation to work properly, follow these steps

- Download Produkey and run it: it will show your Windows 8 OEM key, take note of it on a piece of paper and keep it handy

Step 1: Creating bootable Windows 8/8.1 install media

NOTE: IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU USE THE FOLLOWING METHODS TO CREATE THE BOOTABLE MEDIA NEEDED TO INSTALL WINDOWS 8.1 AND AVOID MICROSOFT'S TOOL.
This is due to the fact that Microsoft's USB DVD Tool formats the drives in NTFS mode, and we are required to use a FAT32 formatted flash drive in order to install Windows 8/8.x on UEFI machines.

- Using the 16GB stick (I believe you can also use 6 or 8GB drives) create a bootable USB drive with Windows 8/8.1 installation files, making sure to format it in FAT32 mode (!!!) In order to do so, you can try formatting it with Windows Disk Management, and then assign a drive letter. If you prefer using Windows' Command Prompt, run "cmd.exe" with Admin Privileges and type the following:

Code:

diskpart

This command will open the disk partition utility in your Command Prompt Window

Code:

list disk

This will allow you to see all the disks recognized by your system

Code:

select disk #

where # is the number of your disk in the list. It is usually the last one, but double check to make sure you choose your USB drive!! You don't want to see your primary OS partition formatted

Code:

clean

This commands wipes the data that is present on your USB drive, so make sure you have a backup somewhere prior to formatting it

Code:

create partition primary

This command creates a primary partition on your drive

Code:

active

Makes the partition we created "active"

Code:

format fs=FAT32 quick

This code formats the drive in FAT32 mode, which is needed in order to be able to install Windows 8.x versions

Code:

assign

This last command assigns a letter to the newly created bootable drive
Now your flash drive will open in a new explorer window, and you can copy-paste the contents of your Win 8/8.1 ISO
Safely remove the USB drive and keep it handy for the OS installation

Step 2: Create a factory image backup

- Reboot and quickly press F4 when the Samsung logo is shown. This will access Recovery. Make sure your second USB drive (32GB at least) is plugged in. Unlike bel90's post here, I was able to use a Sandisk flash drive to perform the backup. Still, I haven't tested restoring a backup with it, so if you can avoid using a Sandisk drive, please do.
- On the left side of the Recovery tool's window, click on "Factory Image Backup", check that the right drive is selected on the drop-down menu, select "create boot disk" option, and start the backup
- Once the backup is done, remove your USB drive and store it in a safe place. This will be needed in case something went wrong and you had to recover your original system image WITH THE RECOVERY PARTITIONS (which are really important and hard to "recover" in case you messed up your system and partitions).
- You can either select "Restart System" or "Shutdown System"

Step 3: BIOS settings

- Reboot/Start your machine and access your BIOS, as there are a few settings to change in it
- Switch "Fast BIOS mode" to "Disabled"
- Make sure "OS Mode Selection" is set to "UEFI". If not, change it to that setting. If you notice OS Mode Selection is set to "CSM", please ask before proceeding, as this may cause Windows Installer to completely wipe your drive (and this would potentially erase any present Recovery partition)
- Secure Boot must be "Disabled"
- Under "Boot device priority", you will see your USB drive named in two slightly different ways: one of them has the "UEFI" prefix. Choose this option as the first boot device.

Step 4: Partitioning and Windows installation

- Now save changes and reboot: your Windows 8/8.1 installation window should show up, allowing you to select the installation language and continue. Please keep in mind that the language of the Windows version you are going to install should match the one that was pre-installed in your machine (eg English)
- Use a Generic Windows 8/8.1 key to install the OS (Google is your best friend now, not sure if I am allowed to post these here). Remember that this is not a permanent activation, you will have to use your own OEM key provided with your laptop at the time of purchase (shown later on in the tutorial)
- Your drive's partitions will be shown: find the right partition on which you already have your OS installed (it is USUALLY the biggest one, be sure to choose the right one), carefully avoiding the Recovery partitions and all the other small ones. Now format the partition you want your OS installed on, then select "Next"
- Installation will start
- Once the process is complete, go back to your BIOS and set everything back to "normal" (Fast BIOS Mode, Secure Boot and Boot Device Priority)
- Reboot your laptop and Windows 8/8.1 should boot, allowing you to finalize the setup and start using your brand new OS!

Step 5: Activation

- We still need to activate our Windows 8/8.1. To do so, we will try a few steps! In my case, I had to try both in order to see my license key installed.
- First step is to head to "System" (Start -> type "System") and, at the bottom of the page displayed, select "Change Product Key", then paste your OEM product key.
- Now go to back to System Overview and check at the bottom of the page. Is Windows activated? If yes, happy days! You are done and just need to install the right drivers for your new OS! If not, go to the next step
- If Windows is still not activated, you might want to try the phone activation. My activation was successfull through the phone.

During phone activation, the recorded voice will guide you through the process. You just need to provide a unique ID for your Windows Installation, and you will be given a confirmation ID once your copy has been validated. Once you're done, hang up the phone and reboot your laptop. Go back to system and check, your copy is now active

- Congratulations! You now have your brand new Windows 8/8.1 installed on your laptop, legally activated.


Troubleshooting

Issue: SWUpdate crashes at startup

Solution: Uninstall your current version of the tool from Control Panel, then download the new version here

Credits:
Obyboby (myself) for the tutorial and testing
Dannemand for the precious help and tips

Please ask if you have ANY doubt before proceeding!!!!!!!!!!

 

Why not just use windows 7 download to usb tool? i used that with my iso and it did all the work, formatting , putting windows on and everything else connected to usb stick

 

The Microsoft tool can only create NTFS formatted USB sticks, while UEFI requires a FAT32 formatted one. You can boot the hybrid UEFI & CSM mode to work around that, but creating a FAT32 stick (as Obyboby does here) is a cleaner and safer approach. See this post for details.

Thanks a lot for sharing this. And seriously, this is your work, you don't need to credit me!