NP900X3K Transplant

Does anybody have internal pictures of the NP900X3K (Broadwell, QHD+ panel) and the part number of the motherboard to 40-pin eDP cable?

None of the current generation laptops have suited my fancy, neither in industrial design nor performance, with the exception of the VAIO Z Flip which is still too expensive at $900-1000+. My current NP900X3C is still running strong as my daily driver, but having only 4GB of RAM and an aging processor is becoming problematic. As a result, I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive holdover laptop until next year when, hopefully, high performance Zen 2 (Ryzen 3000) laptop processors are released.

Looking at the NP900X3_ bottom assemblies on eBay, it seems all of the laptops from the X3C to the X3K use the same PCB standoffs in the same locations. Seeing this, I'm looking to potentially transplant a X3K motherboard into a X3C/E body because I much prefer the aluminium midnight ash with silver sides to the newer plain black or silver magnesium bodies of the X3C/E's succcessors.

Unfortunately, there seems to be a few different, inconsistent daughterboard listings for the left and right daughterboards (USB, SD, power, etc.) so I'm looking for some reference photos which seem to be unavailable anywhere due to the limited distribution of the NP900X3K.

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It seems the NP900X3G uses a similar, if not identical, layout for the motherboard. I assume the daughterboards of the X3K are likewise similar or identical to those of the X3G.



Picture from this listing.

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Somebody else has already attempted this but from the X3G to the X3K.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...g-np900x3g-series-9-ativ-book-9.807281/page-2

The main problem seems to be a change in the motherboard side display connector, which has been modified to support 4-link eDP 1.3 connections due to the much higher resolution of the QHD+ panel compared to the older BOE Hydis 1920x1080 panel in the X3C/E/G.

Digging through the X3K thread on this forum, it's speculated that the NP900X3K panel is the same QHD+ panel used by the NP940X3G/K to reduce production costs. Assuming this is true, both panels use a 40-pin eDP connection on the panel side so theoretically I should be able to take the X3K display cable and attach it to the BOE Hydis panel so long as the panel side connectors and pinouts are compatible.

BOE Hydis (X3C/E/G):
http://www.panelook.com/HN133WU3-100_BOE_13.3_CELL_overview_20229.html

Samsung PLS (900X3K and 940X3G/K):
http://www.panelook.com/LTN133YL01-L01_Samsung_13.3_LCM_overview_23361.html
http://www.panelook.com/LTN133YL01-F01_Samsung_13.3_LCM_overview_23362.html

Unfortunately, nobody seems to be selling the eDP cable separately and I am not completely sure if the following part on Samsung Parts is the correct thing I am looking for due to there being no picture and me not knowing the part number for the eDP cable:

https://www.samsungparts.com/3710-003986-BOARD.html

From the part name/description and pricing, I suspect this might only be the SMD receptacle instead of the eDP cable assembly.

The only other option is to spend $100 on a X3K display assembly to pull just the cable.

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I'm considering swapping in a Sharp 13.3" 2560x1440 panel, specifically the LQ133T1JW02/19/20. This is in the interest of higher contrast ratios and higher resolution, although at the cost of battery life (compared to trying to swap in the older 1080p BOE Hydis panel, still much better than the original 4K panel used in the X3K) which is somewhat critical due to the very small 44 WHr battery used by the X3K. I am also concerned that the BOE Hydis might have an incompatible pinout due to using a 2-link eDP connection instead of a 4-link (potential mismatch in dud pins with signal/power pins).

The W02 is the one used in the Acer S7-392 ( https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Acer-Aspire-S7-392-Ultrabook.106960.0.html#toc-display), the W19 is used in Fujitsu Lifebook S904 ( https://www.notebookcheck.net/Review-Fujitsu-LifeBook-S904-Notebook.114497.0.html#toc-display), and the W20 is used in the Alienware 13 R2 (I couldn't find a review of it).

The W20 would be ideal because it is rated for 400 cd/m^2 for maximum brightness but the only listings I have been able to find are for a grade A panel (rather than A+) for $150+ and preassembled Alienware 13 R2 display assemblies which have a touch digitizer fused to the display.

The W19 is the safest due to having the eDP connector on the same side as the QHD PLS panel used in the X3K while the W02 and W20 have it on the opposite side, which may cause issues if the X3K eDP cable is not long enough. There's also an abundance of grade A+ panels for $90-100.

There is somebody as well who has tried swapping panels which use the Molex 104062-4011 eDP connector (Samsung QHD+ PLS) to an IPEX 20455-40E-12R (same 20455-40E-___ family as the connector used by the Sharp 1440p panels).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-pin-edp-4-lane-cables-and-4k-monitor.807241/

From the looks of it, I do not need to worry about the eDP panel side connector being incompatible for these two connectors.

 

http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=21690,23095,27231,23736,23361

Here's the juxtaposed comparison of the panels I'm considering alongside the BOE Hydis and Samsung PLS panels used in the X3C/E/G and X3K respectively.

Currently I'm trying to look for the datasheets for the Samsung PLS LTN133YL01-L01 (or F01) panel(s) to check for pin-out compatibility with the Sharp W19.

The datasheets for the BOE Hydis HN133WU1-100 (or WU3-100) and the Sharp LQ133T1JW20 (400 cd/m^2 version) panels are secondary. I currently have the ones for the Sharp ...W02 and ...W19.

If anybody with a Panelook account (or links to another source) could send me the datasheets for these panels, I would greatly appreciate it!

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Found the datasheet for the LTN133YL01. The pinouts are identical between the Samsung LTN133YL01-___ and Sharp LQ133T1JW__ panels. Since the connectors seem to be compatible as well, now I just need to locate the correct eDP cable to wire assembly for the NP900X3K.

I also found the datasheet for the HN133WU3-100 and the pinout does not match up to the LTN133YL01-___ and LQ133TJW__ panels. This is probably due to the panel, most likely, using eDP 1.2 (although regular Displayport has held up backwards compatibility from 1.4 back to 1.1) or Samsung just adapting an old LVDS connector/assembly they already had available for eDP use.

 

Found the display cable for the NP940X3G (uses the LTN133YL01-___).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...Plus-NP940X3G-PN-BA39-01324A/32572813035.html

This looks like it's going to be too short, and I still cannot find a part number for the NP900X3K's display cable.

 

@deepmind Did you attempt this swap? I have an X3D which I use for light browsing, playing music, and checking email. I love the form factor, touchpad, keyboard, etc, but the 1.4GHz processor and 4GB ram are killing me. I’d actually prefer to keep the lower res 1600 panel that’s in the machine, but if I need to swap in a FHD panel to make it easy that’s fine too. Have you had any luck?

 

You would have to upgrade to the 1080p panel from what I've tried. I did buy an X3C for the body and it seems like the motherboard is configured for the 1600x900 version. Plugging the FHD panel in doesn't show a working image. I believe the 1080p panel used in the X3C through X3G are all the same BOE Hydis panel so the wiring from the motherboard should be the same. High chance that the engineers hardwired it for one resolution since it's not a flexible interface like eDP.

The X3G strictly comes with the 1080p BOE hydis panel so you would have to go for that. You're going to have to be very, very careful with the panel swap and make sure the panel receives little to no flex when being handled or else the polariser will break. It's more fragile than a potato chip.

The PCB standoffs are identical between the X3B, X3C, X3D, and X3G from what I've seen. The X3K is also the same with an extra standoff on the daughterboard for the ports on the same side of the charging port but you can simply omit that one.

 

Thanks for the reply! I found a donor machine that's cosmetically a bit rough but it has the mobo and all of the i/o boards, as well as the display. I'll plan to swap that as well. Wish me luck!

edit - is the display assembly glued together? I was hoping to be able to put the new panel into my existing X3D lid - is that not an option?

 

You pop off the bezel which uses clips. The panel assembly is held in place mostly with adhesive but it's pretty weak adhesive. You can definitely swap out panels but you're going to need an extreme amount of care. The display parts (e.g. backlight, polarizer, etc.) basically aren't held together and since the polarizer isn't fused to a nice brittle front glass (think how most smartphones are nowadays) it makes for a very fragile part.

 

Understood, thanks again. I’ll report back with results if I can get my hands on the donor.

 

Hmmm, after watching this guy absolutely decimate this display getting it apart, I think I might be better off starting with a new panel. I realize he was using all the wrong tools, but still. I’m leaning toward an X3K donor machine and I’d like to find a matte panel for it. Can you give me any recommendations? I tried searching on panelook but I’m a bit out of my depth there.

Here are the panels that came up for me:

Darwin N133HAN04.1

http://www.panelook.com/N133HAN04.1_Darwin_13.3_Assembly_overview_31014.html

AUO B133HAK01.1

http://www.panelook.com/B133HAK01.1_AUO_13.3_LCM_overview_31635.html

LG LP133QD1-SPB2

http://www.panelook.com/LP133QD1-SPB2_LG Display_13.3_LCM_parameter_30921.html

 

Sorry for the late response. I don't check this forum often.

You'll have to be careful with the connector. It's using a custom 2-lane eDP to LVDS interface with a pretty obscure connector so there's a pretty high chance you won't be able to find another panel that works outside of the original one.

All of the laptops before the NP900X3 K (X3G as well) use what seems to be a custom 2-lane eDP to LVDS interface. Only the X3 K and above use a standardized 4-lane eDP connector which is why I can do a panel swap as long as the panel uses a standard 4-lane eDP interface (so I can use different resolution panels without any problems, although you do have to check how the backlighting is configured to see if you retain PWM control).

I think even between the different resolutions of the X3C/D/E you can't swap panels. I tried swapping my X3E's 1080p panel into a 900p X3C motherboard and it wouldn't work (there was a picture but the output looks the same as if you broke the display, although my panel was completely fine). I don't have another 900p X3C or X3B to test so there's a possibility that something on the motherboard (GPU, etc.) was broken instead. If it wasn't my motherboard, then it seems like LVDS is configured for fix resolution though so you wouldn't be able to do anything.

Even if you do find a panel with the same connector panel-side, you have to find a spec sheet and check for pinouts just in case manufacturers wire the panels differently since LVDS from what I've seen wasn't particularly standardized in pinouts (hence the switch to eDP). I'm not particularly confident on my knowledge of LVDS and a lot of the spec sheets are quite difficult to find for many panels (panelook has them hidden behind their paywall) so unless you're willing to invest the time and effort into finding the spec sheets and comparing connectors + connector pinouts I would advise against it.

 

So I’ve got an X3K donor, and I took a risk and ordered a LP133QD1-SPB2, which is not only way too big, but also doesn’t work at all when connected to the X3K. Plan B was to swap the panel from the X3K, and you are right, it is possible, but you have to be SUPER careful. I got down to about the last half inch of adhesive and I got a little too confident. Pop. That’s $100 down the drain, but this time a direct replacement for the X3K glass is on its way here. Cue another three weeks of waiting for the slow boat from China.

 

You're not alone. I made the same mistake and my X3K panel broke.

 

For the benefit of anyone reading in the future, the bezel is clips all the way around the outside, plus a strip of adhesive at the bottom of display. Apply gentle heat to the adhesive so you don’t warp the plastic. The display has adhesive all the way around. Apply heat with a blow dryer or similar to soften the adhesive then insert a flat prying tool. GENTLY work all the way around with the heat and prying tool, being especially careful at the bottom. Don’t make the same mistake I did and get confident. Deepmind’s advice to treat it as gently as a potato chip was good.