Sony Vaio Z i5/i7 (VPCZ1) Official Owners Thread Part 2

My Z12 occasionally hangs when I try to seek through video files, it goes to a black screen with buzzing audio (I am guessing this is due to looping of the sound buffer). The hanging requires a restart which is highly annoying and it only seems to be happening when I am seeking to another part of the movie file. There doesn't seem to be any crash dump file generated as well.

Was wondering if anyone has experienced something like this before? I am using the Nvidia GPU when this happens, I haven't tested with the intel one yet but will in a bit.

 

I just upgraded my VPCZ116 GX with Windows 8.1 and I now have Nvidia and Intel HD driver failure errors!!! It was all working perfectly under Windows 8. Any ideas?

 

116GX
Same - Just remove and reinstall all drivers Nvidia

 

Thanks for your reply. Now after reinstalling only the HD driver fails. Is there something else that needs to be done to get this working?

 

Sorry, guys,

I am still a bit confused about how to hook 2 monitors up for my Sony Vaio VPCZ1.

I have VGA, DVI-D, and HDMI on my laptop, how I am going to to connect 2 monitors for it?

thank you for your help.

PS.
from another post, I saw someone got this to connect 2 monitors.
http://www.google.com/shopping/product/7769972916837902589#
Targus ACP51USZ USB 2.0 Docking Station with Video

 

Huh I have a problem with not freezing but going high on temperatures nad fan speed because no serious reason. Described it here -> LINK

Maybe you have any idea? :/

 

I just got my Windows 8.one update to work with my Sony VPCZ1.

1. Restarted the 8.1 update by restoring my 8.0 image with the latest Vaio updates
2. Perform the 8.1 update using download associated with today's date
3. After update did a complete video driver uninstall
4. Reboot
5. Install Sony video drivers using Sony support installer
6. Restart waited 5 minutes and restarted again

Sony's docking station now works.

 

Hi all,

My Z11 is having problems with the RAID array. One of the drives (Volume0) keeps showing with a status of "Failed" in Intel Rapid Storage Technology program. This has happened periodically to me in the past but I would just "Reset disk to normal" in IRST and it would seem to be fine. It's now happening consistently and the drive won't stay "fixed." I tried to look at doing a System Restore, but it looks like I don't have any restore points since March of this year (Windows doesn't seem to have been creating restore points for me). And the last restore point I do have is associated with a backup I did to an external--and I tried to back up today when I couldn't fix the disk and now my backups are corrupted. So restore doesn't seem to be an option. [sigh]

Does anyone know what could be going on with Volume0? I saw that someone else in this thread reported this same problem, but the ultimate question from that problem was about something else...didn't seem to be any solution offered for this disk failure. Trying to think of what my options are at this point. Would a factory restore even help? I'm not sure what the "real" issues are related to this disk failure. The computer itself seems to be operating normally (other than the fact that I can't do a back up). Any thoughts on this? Anyone know of other threads or users reporting similar issues? Any help is appreciated.

 

That happened to me. It means the drive is failing. I kept running diagnostics on it and it kept getting worse and worse over a period of months.

Eventually I ended up replacing my drives (I have 256GB) with the same units. I found them on ebay at a pretty reasonable price (this was about 1 year ago). It may well be that if you do some investigation that you would be better off with Intel instead (or whoever is the performance leader these days).

 

Thanks O2. I thought the drives on these were proprietary size, and could only be purchased through Sony? Or did that change over the last couple years? Are there Intel drives that would fit? I was going to start by scouring the web for the Samsung and Toshiba drives that were coming in the Z11s. Can I ask what drive you ended up with (and how it's been working for you)?

Things took a turn for the worse last night and I am now unable to get into Windows at all. The RAID configuration stuff is telling me that one of the drives has errors. So I guess it's either replace the drive or buy a new comp. When you replaced your drive, did you also get a new operating system and all of that fun?

 

You can create an install dvd using the VaioCare application.
If you can't get into Windows you may still be able to get into the recovery partition by typing F8? (or is it F10?) while booting up.
Using that you should be able to create the recovery DVD.
Then when you get a new hard drive you use that to re-install the OS.

Or you can buy the System Recovery disks from Sony: https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/e...ategoryName=Recovery CD&categoryName=Computer

Alternatively you can download the windows 7 image from Microsoft: Download Retail Windows 7 ISO from Official Website | Next of Windows
Then you have to type in the key (on the underside of the PC)
Then you have to install all the Sony drivers: Sony eSupport - VPCZ112GX - Support

Apparently there is a recommended sequence to the driver installs. This is from some notes that folks had recorder on this forum:
-Audio (reboot), Bluetooth, Lan (wired), Ricoh Card reader/writer SD CPRM, Ricoh PCIe SD Bus, Ricoh PCIe Mem. Stick, Intel Chipset Driver, Intel Turbo Boost Driver, Intel ICH8M Raid Controller, Trackpad (reboot), Intel WiFi
Then:
-Sony Firmware Extension Parser Device, Sony Shared Library, Sony Notebook utilities, Intel Management, Nvidia Driver, UPEK Protector Suite, Vaio MetaData

The Z11 256GB (128x2) SSD drive direct from Sony (pricey) is 185757711 ( https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.com/sony-parts.aspx)
see this thread: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/477790-sony-z11-new-ssd-change-2.html).
128GB is: 185757911 and 185757611

Here is a thread on SSD replacement with alternative drive:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/511578-how-replace-ssd-vaio-vpcz11-vpcz12-non-sony-ssd.html

Here are some other related threads:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/626756-replacing-broken-vaio-z11-ssd.html
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/562444-vaio-z-112gx-s-ssd-error.html
http://forum.notebookreview.com/son...g-term-ssd-performance-post-your-results.html

 

Brilliant! Thank you for your detail. Rep added.

Fortunately I created the Vaio Recovery disks through Vaio Care when I first bought the Z11. I have that in the Z right now attempting to "repair" the drive, but know that is unlikely to work if the hardware has failed. But I think what you're saying is that if I can get a SSD configuration in working order again, I can use those recovery DVDs to restore the system to factory state (including the operating system). Is that correct?

The threads you posted were very helpful--some I was familiar with but the "Replacing Broken Vaio Z11 SSD" was particularly helpful and new to me. I think the Samsung drive I need (for a one-to-one swap out) is model MMCRE64GDDXP-MVB, part number 185757811. This is what the RAID configuration utility is telling me has failed, and I believe it is a 64GBx1 drive (the other drives are listed as model MMCRE28G in the RAID utility (ports 3 and 4), and I believe this is a sandwich of 2 64GB drives on one chip, if I'm not mistaken).

I've never opened the machine and I'm certainly a noob when it comes to hardware. If I start looking on the internet/ebay for the MMCRE64G drive, what do I need to watch out for in terms of cables and connections? I'm pretty sure I need the SSD to have ZIF cable based on some of those other threads--I'll open the machine up to confirm that. But if I can find a Samsung drive with that model number online, is that all I need to look for? I just don't want to get the part and then find it doesn't fit.

 

You could also consider pulling the defective drive and rebuilding with the remaining.
So if you have a 2 drive 256GB machine, that would give you a 128GB setup.

Note that you need an even number of you want to keep the raid option. If you leave an odd number of drives (like say 3x64GB) then you would leave them un-raided.

 

Hmm...I have the 192GB version, which I thought was three LOGICAL 64GB drives...think it's actually two physical chips, though. One 64GB chip (the one that's failed) and a chip that has 128GB segmented into two logical drives. If I pull out the 64GB chip and leave the other physical drive in place, can I still do RAID 0 with what's left?

 

Yes (I was mistaken about the even number thing)

 

So I un-raided the triple and left and created a RAID 0 between the two good drives. Again, I have three 64GB logical drives for a total of 192GB. Minus the corrupted drive, that leaves me with 128GB. I did not physically remove the corrupted drive because I can't get two screws out of the bottom casing (don't have a small enough Phillips head). I was hoping to do a factory reinstall on the 128GB raided volume and then just leave the corrupted 64GB drive unused. But I have a hunch that the Vaio recovery tool is trying to reinstall the operating system on the corrupted drive, and not the RAID 0 128GB volume. Anyone know of a way to have the system ignore the corrupted drive so I can install the OS on the RAID 0 volume? Can I "disable" that drive through the BIOS somehow?

 

Hi again guys!
Nobody has any idea what could be wrong in my case? :/ I've described it before http://forum.notebookreview.com/son...l-owners-thread-part-2-a-341.html#post9423320
Z1 is in second service store and so far no clear answer form them.

 

The link you provided simply pointed to another link. Following that one led to a link indicating that you had installed Windows 8. And that (after a big update) appeared to surface some kind of a compatibility issue: Your fan goes full blast and the computer shuts down.

You mention in there that you were going to re-install Win 7, to see if the problem goes away. Did it?

If it did then I would assume that whatever hacked drivers you were using, you probably need to try and find some some different hacked drivers (assuming you still want to go back to Win 8).

If it didn't go away and still has the same effect in Win 7 (unlikely), then I guess you have a hardware problem with your computer. That would be a completely different issue. Since they just redid the cooling system, that would be my first suspicion. Maybe something didn't get clamped down, maybe they messed up the thermal paste etc.

 

Hey guys, just wanna check something. I have a HDD model of the Z1, and when I opened it up today, I noticed this port lying behind my HDD caddy. Is it a SATA port or a mSATA port or something else?





Was wondering if I could throw in some wire to connect it to a mSATA SSD.

 

That's a port that can connect to an SATA optical drive. A 9.5mm SATA optical bay caddy will fit (rather, I think that is what you currently have), so more easily you should just replace the 2.5" SATA HDD that you currently have with a 2.5" SATA SSD. Not sure if there are any 2.5" SATA to mSATA adaptors.

 

If I could I'd like to use a mSATA SSD as OS drive and my HDD for data. Putting in a regular SSD would be my last resort. :/

 

There is no mSATA slot. The stock SSDs that come in the Z1 goes in the rectangular space under the touchpad.

You can look here for if you don't want to remove the stock HDD: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/511578-how-replace-ssd-vaio-vpcz11-vpcz12-non-sony-ssd.html
adap
That method requires you to purchase a cable for microSATA connectors (not mSATA), 1.8" micro SATA SSDs (1 or 2) as well as an optical bay adaptor for your current HDD which will be redirected to connect to a different port (the one which you were asking about).

Perhaps it might be possible to get an adaptor to connect a single microSATA or mSATA SSD to the optical bay port but there isn't much space to work with inside the laptop.

 

Thank you very much for the information, you have been a great help. One last question though, I've been reading about these M.2 SSDs, does the Z1 have any slots that can fit these SSDs? I'm a bit confused about which slots they go in, seems like there's mSATA versions and laptop PCIe versions.

 

I'm not entirely sure, but at least I don't think this laptop has any M.2 slot. I'm not familiar with M.2, but it would seem that the M.2 tech is a bit newer than the Z1.

 

Respected owners! Please help me to solve the following problem. Esterday I replace the DVD to HDD. On assembly stage I broke the lock on the main connector, wich connect dvdbay, wifi buttons and others. As I may understand, the frame (orange ribbon cable FPC-197) can't Cuddle enough to main connector without closed lock on it.
Does anyone know how to solve this issue?

 

Hello!

I want to prepare my vpcz12c5e for sale but I noticed that I have only printed manual and VAIO Windows XP SP3 Downgrade DVD.

System recovery area was erased (Windows 7 Pro x64).

I wrote email to vaio support but I don't think they will help with download link (VAIO Win 7 DVD Image).

Maybe someone of you can help with downloadable recovery dvd iso image for clean install (VPCZ12)?


Thanks in advance

 

Anyone tried to upgrade their z1 w/ hacked bios with a wireless ac card? I just purchased an AC66U from the tigerdirect deal and am seriously looking to upgrade the pci card in the z1. will the Intel 7260 work?

 

@minghi: I upgraded mine to an Intel 6300 card and added a 3rd antenna under the top case on the left edge. When I am close to my access point I see 450Mbps which is cool! Good luck with the ac card. Does it have 3 antenna connectors too?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

I have an intel ac7260 in my zbook 15. It has 2 antenna connectors. My z13 still has the intel 620x. I also use the Asus AC66. Combo works great with my zbook.

 

thank you for the replies guys, also surprised to see no one with an ac card in their z1, so I placed an order on newegg. hoping to update this thread in a few days.


Edit: It works, now wireless lan transfers to my nas went upto 20MB/s which is 2x of 10MB/s that I was seeing with wireless-N. I think my nas is slow. Need to test direct transfers to a laptop or something. btw, this is with the hacked bios and I didn't change anything in the bios (guess there's no whitelist or it is disabled). Also, the connection speed juggles between 600Mbps and 800Mbps.

 

I have a vpcz11 with gobi 2000 wwan. Can i upgrade to a gobi 3000 (Huawei em680?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

I use the gobi 2000 wwan with AT&T broadband. The gps works but obtaining a fix takes a long time. I would like to get gpsonextra working. Does anyone have this working? When I run gobiallpowerswitcher xtra it always tells me no xtra data. When I run xtra now it appears to get data because wwan is temporarily busy but still no xtra validity shown.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

Has anyone ever tried to connect one (or even two, space permitting) mSATA drives like this one:
Crucial CT128M4SSD3 128GB M4 SATA III 6Gb/s mSATA MLC Internal SSD: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
Slotted into an mSATA to microSATA adapter like this:
New 1.8 inch Micro SATA 7+9 Pin male to 50mm mSATA Mini PCI-E SSD Adapter Card | eBay

Would be amazing if this worked. Once could create a 512GB Raid array with two 256GB drives!

 

I am setting up a new VPC-Z12AHX and there are two pieces of hardware I would actually like to REMOVE from it (physically):

1) The GOBI Verizon WWAN card, and...

2) The FOXCONN Bluetooth card

I have upgraded the laptop with Bluetooth 4.0 - so the existing Bluetooth card/device is redundant.

Can anyone help me locate and remove these two cards? I already know how to open the VPC-Z1 - I just need guidance as to what daughtercards etc. to remove.

Thanks in advance for your help.

DC

 

Hello,

The screen on my laptop (VPCZ11C7E) starting to show signs of weakness(and big tasks dead pixels), I'd like to use it as a media center connected to the TV.

But the problem is that for the moment, I have not found how to turn on the PC without opening the hood.The power button is on the side yet, but it is active only when the cover is open.

And as the laptop will be slipped into the cabinet under the tv,I did not want to leave in order to open the hood every time I want to turn it on.

I do not know if it depends only on the BIOS (I have not found anything interesting in it, even with the hacked version), so if someone has an idea, I'm interested.

Have a nice evening
Johann

 

I think you can do it with a wireless keyboard. I did it with my previous laptop. If you set the keyboard to "Allow this device to wake the computer" then it should wake it up when you press a key. That will work fine in sleep mode (glowing orange power light) but not in hibernate or when it's completely powered off.

 

I'm looking for an alternate port replicator / docking station that works with the VPCZ1 series: does anyone know if there is a model other than the official VGP-PRZ10 that is compatible? The official replicator does not have an HDMI port/no way to connect audio out... I'm looking to hook up the Z to the tv as an htpc, without connecting 4 or 5 wires every time I want to use the laptop away from the living room. Ideas?

 

Wouldn't the audio be on the dvi? A dvi-> hdmi adapter will probably do to get audio and video to the tv. This is how I connect my htpc's video card to my receiver which gets both audio and video via dvi . I have not tried connecting my vpc z1 to a tv even though I own this docking station.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

This is what I'm hoping is the case, but unlike hdmi, dvi does not normally carry audio. Some video cards do carry audio in dvi (like the Radeon in my pc) but this is almost never the case. I'd very much appreciate it if you could possibly try it for me, I'd like to know for sure before investing in the dock.

 

I have a VPC-Z1 built in 2010. The keyboard occasionally does not work. The with a restart (or two) it finally comes to life. Does this sound like a loose connector? I've opened up the computer a few times...is it easy to get to this connector? I've searched the threat, and haven't found any information on where the connector is when I open the machine.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

I'm not sure you can detach the connector ribbon from the keyboard, but it's likely that the problem lies with the connector or the keyboard itself. Might have to replace the keyboard assembly.

 

I had this notebook for a short time back in 2010 i was very fickle about the build quality and a few other things, i think ultrabooks are great but for me not much of having a dvd drive for me it's important to have extra batteries i am used to having those and i do burn a lot of dvds. There's a whole bunch on ebay but i though do feel some are just overpriced. Where is the best place to buy some 9 cell batteries and does the machine still suffer from overheating issues? Has anyone tried to install Windows 8 and been successful with the drivers and everything.

 

Hi everyone,

I've had the Vaio Z since this version first came out and it has been great until a week ago. Hopefully someone here can help me troubleshoot the situation I've gotten into.

Last week, the piece of plastic in the DC jack broke, rendering my laptop useless once the battery died.

I ordered a replacement and started working on installing it. During the process of installing the replacement I ended up having to re-solder the cable to the jack itself. I hooked it up, reassembled the computer, and tried to turn it on (plugged in and with the battery out). Nothing. I tried with just the battery (which still has about a 20% charge) with no results.

When I first plug it in (before pressing the power button), the DVD drive spins briefly. That is the only response I can get out of it.

I checked the keyboard ribbon cable and it is plugged in (I reconnected it and tried several times).

I don't know if this is enough info (it probably isn't), but I hope someone can help me diagnose this problem. I am hoping it isn't completely fried.

Thanks ahead of time,
ficklebjt

 

Hey ficklebjt or anyone else,

I'm having the same problem with my dc jack input (the piece of plastic covering the metal pins broke off, thus the connection is loose and I'm afraid the pins will break off at any point). I'm wondering how difficult the repair is? does the replacement dc input need to be soldered to the motherboard, or did something just break while you disassembled the laptop? I was kind of hoping the dc input just connected to the motherboard via a harness (cable), but your post is giving me doubts. Also, how difficult is it to access the dc input... is it accessible immediately after removing the top of the chassis? I'm just nervous cause I've never had to open up this laptop in 4 years and I have a feeling the parts are really fragile. I'd really appreciate some feedback!

thanks a lot,
elmish1z

 

I did finally manage to replace the part. The DC jack uses a harness to plug into the motherboard, but I had the misfortune of breaking the soldered points on the new harness (I re-soldered them with no problem). The computer itself is not the easiest to disassemble, but it mostly just takes time. To get to the DC jack I had to take off the keyboard, the DVD drive, the SSDs, and also the motherboard (the part where the harness plugs in is underneath the motherboard).

Without the top keyboard piece the frame feels very flimsy, so just be gentle with it and you should be fine. Also, you must have the DVD drive ejected while you are working on the laptop. There is a screw that you must remove which is impossible to get to with the DVD drive closed.

You ready to hear the solution to my issue stated in my previoous post? The side of the ribbon cable that attaches to the keyboard had gotten loose, thus preventing me from turning on the laptop.

Hoopefully this helps,

FickleBJT

 

I originally had a problem very similar to what you encountered after replacing my dc jack, but stupid me forgot to insert the ram back into the motherboard and it didn't even occur until after about an hour of checking every cable 100 times.

 

I'm thinking of opening up my z1 as lately the fan seems to run all the time in "speed" mode. In stamina mode, its a lot better, no fan noise except during medium to heavy loads. Should I replace the thermal paste on the cpu while I'm in there? also, should I replace the thermal paste on the nvidia chipset as that seems to be the reason for the fan running all the time.

 

Me too. What temps does your computer idle at? Mine has periodic thermal shutdowns once in a while. Idle temps are 70degC+/-5deg, under load will get into the high 90's.

This thread seems to be helpful.

I just bought some copper shims off eBay for $1.50 shipped, so I'll probably do this in a few weeks.

 

I just purchased a VPCZ...it wouldn't even load a copy of Windows without a thermal shutdown! When I opened it up the paste on the CPUs what (literally) hard as rock. VERY difficult to get off without damaging the chips. The OEM Sony TIM seems to have SERIOUS issues after a couple of years and must be replaced. I've NEVER seen paste that hard! If blowing the dust out of your cooling system doesn't do it....you almost assuredly need to repaste the CPUs.

As for the GPU (Nvidia) it uses a thermal pad...and it's quite a specialized one. It seems to be there to fill the .5mm gap between the chip and the heat sink. Ok...if you're careful and GENTLE about how you separate the heat sink from the chips you won't tear this pad and you can reuse it if you if you want and your GPU temps are decent. Mine run 75C under gaming loads. That's pretty good. If you tear the pad or otherwise destroy it you have 2 options. Buy a new one from Sony for $15..yes they are still available. Or go the shim route..both are described in the quoted thread. DON'T replace the pad with paste! It's not a good idea because no paste is made to function well in a .5mm thickness. I did it (not knowing about the gap) and my GPU temps under the same gaming loads were about 95C! Thankfully I saved the otherwise intact pad. I put it back and the GPU temps dropped 20C. My CPU (I7-620M) temps under the same gaming loads are about 95C which is a bit higher than I would like and I may try repasting the CPUs again. I5 temps that I have seen listed here seem to run about 10C cooler.

Repasting the CPUs/GPU require complete mobo removal....cuz naturally they are on the underside of the motherboard!! Not for the faint of heart...but there are several good tutorials available.

 

A few thoughts on just having upgraded to a VPCz-1390X purchased on Ebay. There are bunch of these machines available and some (like mine) are at quite reasonable prices. Some are not. But if you shop carefully and do some research in advance you can buy what was a $4000+ computer for a few hundred dollars. That said, here are a few things to note and a few opinions of my own.

I don't think the build quality is as good as that of the previous VGN-Z. I think it looks a little cheaper and feels less sturdy. The sound quality has suffered...there is quite a lot less volume available and the bass response is less as well. The CPU is no longer in a socket so there is no upgrade without a mobo change...it is soldered in place There is no retractable cover for the docking connector...you have to fit or remove a rubber plug. None of this is a BIG deal...it's just clear Sony was trying to cut costs in these areas.

The Plusses. The GT330M with 1 GB of discrete RAM is a noticeable improvement on the 9300 with 256MB and shared RAM with the system. The backlit keyboard is terrific if you use the lappy in low light at all. The changeover from STMAINA to SPEED mode without having to move a switch or interact with a dialog box is a big help. I have the QUAD raid setup which is still quite fast even by todays standards. Interestingly the RAID initialization portion takes almost three times as long as the same portion of the boot cycle on my DUAL raid VGN-Z. Adds about 12 seconds to the boot cycle...I have no idea why. Total time to boot to a useable desktop in WIN7 is 45-50 seconds on a clean install. The 1080p screen is a noticeable improvement IMHO...better black levels and color depth. And yes I even like the automatic brightness adjustment for the display...I just wish I could find a way to have it skew the brightness curve to the plus side a little bit. The noise cancelling earbuds are quite good and do what they are supposed to do...reduce ambient noise and make up for the otherwise substandard sound system.

I've experienced two major problems with my VPCZ. At first it wouldn't even install windows without a thermal shutdown...see previous post. CPU repaste required! After a few weeks the magnet mounted inside the top of the display frame next to the webcam somehow got loose, worked it's way to the bottom of the LCD panel (still inside the bezel) and caused the LCD to crack when I picked the machine up by gripping it at the hinge end. New LCD panel required! Thank goodness I wanted the 1080p panel anyway...AND one was available on Ebay.

Be VERY careful of the display panel/lid to the computer...it's light, flexible and easily breakable. Get a good semi-rigid or hardshell case and use it!

These machines are prone to overheating...keep the cooling system clean and the paste on the CPU(s) fresh.

I replaced the OEM speakers with speakers from the VGN-z series. They work...AND provide more volume! But the downside is they distort at high volume levels! I suspect they are lower impedance and draw more power than the soundboad has to give causing the distortion. Soldering skills and disassembly of palmrest required to do this.

Overall these are STILL great machines for the price some are going for. But you have to treat it as a project. COUNT on needing to repaste your CPU and clean the cooling system if you're going to put any load on the system at all...much less game on the machine. And yes you CAN game on the VPCZ. The OEM paste is crap. Period. Dot. And if you want Apple like battery life...plan on buying the extended life battery which will add some weight to the machine as well.

My thoughts...hope they help.