Sony Vaio VPCZ1 LCD replacement/disassembly guide

I thought I would make a guide since I couldn't find any when I was about to disassemble mine. Credits go to ota-con ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/member.php?u=303614) for giving me the original instructions. Also to newmodeus because I got the first pic from them since they labeled all the screw sizes. Sorry if the pics aren't good, it was hard to concentrate and take good pictures at the same time =P


#1 - remove all the bottom screws and take remove the keyboard






#2 - Remove the hinges. This is not necessary, but it gives you easier access to the next 6 screws and allows the lid to lay back flat. If you think you can manage, then you can skip this. The hinges are attached to the main body each by one screw. They should be covered by a piece of black tape (the tape is already off in the pics). After you release these two screws the only thing that is still attached to the screen to the main body are the cables that go to the LCD via the left/right hinge. Be careful not to tear those cables.
Just lay the screen back down.







#3 - Remove the bezel screws. There are 3 screws on each side, but only one on each side can be unscrewed and removed. The other two (which may be covered by black tape/foam) can be unscrewed but not removed since the bezel blocks them so just loosen these two screws.
After this, you will need to detach the front black plastic bezel from the back lid.
I would start to loosen it from the bottom and the slowly and gently work my way up. The bezel is held by plastic clips to the lid. However at the top you will need to push the bezel up a bit since it is held at the top by little hooks.







#4 - at this point, you can just lift up the LCD. There are many loose parts underneath such as the WLAN/WWAN antenna's, the camera, and some other loose parts at the bottom. Be careful not to move these when you lift the LCD, and try to remember their positions in case you do move them.
After that, there is a small connector on the bottom left of the LCD. It looks very thin and delicate so be very careful when removing this. it just pulls out, no clips.




Now you just swap your LCD and do everything in reverse.

TIPS/DIFFICULTIES:
IMO, disassembling was easy, the hard part was reassembling.

#1 - When putting the bezel back on, start from the top and work your way down. The bezel bends easily so be careful not to break it. And more importantly, make sure there are no wires being pinched between the bezel and the lid, they should all be tucked in. It took me a good 7-8 min trying to get this back on.

#2 - The second hard part was re-assembling the hinges. First of all, make sure all the wires are inside the hinge, they should not be poking out anywhere or they might get pinched.

#3 - Lastly, make sure you test your LCD before you put back the 20 something screws at the bottom, because the LCD connector looks flimsy and might come off, so you don't wanna have to assemble everything only to find out it doesn't work.

The keyboard and the rest is pretty straight forward.

If anyone has anything to add, let me know.

 

Excellent guide! +REP

 

Thanks for taking the time & effort to make the guide. Appreciate it.

 

I have done this once... And there is a thing worth to mention: The magnet next to the camera. Be careful not to loose it. I think it has to be mounted with the red side to the user.

 

Thanks for this, all. One of many incredibly helpful posts on this forum. (We should probably change the title of the thread to "Display replacement/disassembly..." As its not actually a LCD.

The screw length and location diagram was key, I never would have gotten those all back in correctly.

And good point on the magnet. My VPCZ1-1390x had a thin red line oriented horizontally on the half of the magnet closest to the top of the bezel.



I also had to unscrew and remove the circular hinge covers. They also have a quasi snap fitting into notches on the perimeter of the bezel.



The bezel take a little more pressure than I had expected to remove it, more than I was comfortable with. I thought for sure I was going to crack it- but it was fine.



I purchased my replacement LED from SmartMicroUSA - for $498. Ordered on a Friday, and a $30 dollar shipping charge got it to me on Monday morning. SONY VAIO VPCZ124GX/B 13.1" WUXGA LAPTOP LED DISPLAY $498 SMARTMICROUSA.COM

Mine is the WUXGA - 1920x1080. The replacement was spot on identical to the original, even the solder joints were identical. The replacement has a 'made in China' sticker, while the OEM had a 'made in Japan' - I'd bet they both came off the same line in Shenzhen or some other Chinese city. The colors are identical, as well as the texture of the laminate surface.

 

What a nice guide, waleed786!

One quick question for those that already opened this notebook. Did you see if the hard drives can be replaced? I would like to upgrade the hard drives, but I am not sure if the disks can be replaced on this laptop (my exact model is VPCZ110GL (PCG-31111U).

I called Sony, but they didn't want to give any reference, manual, or instructions (the customer service was very disappointing)

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/511578-how-replace-ssd-vaio-vpcz11-vpcz12-non-sony-ssd.html

 

Hi Folks!
So, I disassembled a Vaio Z, and have now three problems:
- I need a Goby 2000 card (it's faulty, that's why I opened the laptop)
- I need a keyboard-to-mainboard flat cable (I f**ked it up...)
- I have 6 short screws, not 4, and I don't remember where they go...

Thanks in advance for any help...

 

too bad I need to do this. I need the technical department to send me a fHD, as my FHD comes as a 1600*900 panel

great put down

 

^They are not likely to send you a new panel. You are going to need to return the notebook.

 

Here's a question. Say one had two vaio Z's and wanted to swap the lids and screen as one piece (all together) is it just a matter of removing the screws from the bottom, releasing the hinges and unplugging it from the mainboard? Both have no broadband built in.

I would assume this would be an easier transplant.

Thoughts?

 

yes it is as simple as that

no need for changing the harness

 

Thanks for this info. However, the part is currently listed as being "glossy," and you say yours matched the original screen finish (which is really closer to matte). Can you confirm what the actual part number was on your unit? Thanks.

 

The link I provided is the correct unit.

Despite being labeled 'glossy' it has the same finish that the OEM display had.

 

Thanks, David. Did you by chance write down the actual P/N on the unit you ordered? I'm seeing that Sony has stopped selling the older Toshiba LT131EE11000, and is now referencing an AU Optronics B131HW02V0 (P/N A1813439A).

 

Here is a tip from when I disassembled my casing to tighten the screws because I had a loose hinge.

1. get a scrap piece of 8.5x11 lay it next to the laptop.
2. as you remove screws poke them into the paper so you remember which screws go where. I actually drew a diagram of the bottom of the laptop with little circles on the paper. it doesn't need to be a picasso just some line drawing.

 

Hi Waleed and Ota-Con

I have a 2010, Vaio VPCZ12AHX

I realised 3/4 of my Keyboard keys are not working today , it could be due to the reason that I cleaned my VPCZ yesterday and maybe some cleaning liquid gotten into the keyboard.

On the first page of this topic, there is a Dismantling guide with pictures, can I please have this guide in a bigger format as I can not read the small fonts easily.

Apart from dismantling the VPCZ1 do you guys have any other ideas how to fix the problem ? I took OFF the keys from its place by prying them with a credit card and cleaned underneath but it did not help ....

Thanks
DC

 

Thank you for a very informative and helpful post. However I would like to point out one small item. The display is in fact an LCD display and not an LED display.

Technically it is an LCD panel with an LED backlight (as opposed to fluorescent).

 

Hi I just have a question about the screen panel connector (or the harness or the LVDS cable, whatever it is called).
Is it a regular 30 pin connector used on other laptops?

 

I just wanted to say thanks for this thread, and add a one point.

I used tape to stick the magnet in place while I waited for the screen to arrive and when I pulled off the tape the red line was taken off with the tape, luckily I noticed and was able to put a mark on the magnet so I could tell the direction.

 

This help request regards a Sony VPCZ119FX with Windows 7 installed

I had to replace the LCD screen because of damage. Could only see half of the screen of the damaged unit. Removed the screws and bezel according to this detailed disassembly guide (thank you!). Removed the LCD screen by the connection port to the inverter board. Popped in the new screen, plugged the cable in, and closed up the laptop pre-final screws. Lo and behold, nothing is visible on the screen when booting up or after entering Windows 7... I plugged the laptop into an HDMI external monitor out and I can see that the LCD screen is detected and that I am able to adjust the "duplicate, extended" monitor settings and from there, adjust the resolution. Device manager shows the laptop screen without a yellow icon so the PnP drivers shouldn't be malfunctioning.

I thought the new screen wasn't compatible at first (I bought the one here listed by Smart Micro USA) but now when I disassembled the new screen again and popped in the old LCD screen, it doesn't even show the damaged "half-of-the-screen" lit up image that it used to show.

My thought process:
-Screen should be compatible based on other installers experience
-Shouldn't be a faulty replacement screen because previous screen no longer lights up either
-Connecting cables should be okay because it is detected within Windows

My next thought would be to try to find a replacement video cable to see if I may have damaged cables i.e. the wires responsible for sending the image to the screen. However, I haven't been able to spot any good OEM sources for this.

Does any one have any suggestions on how I should proceed? Any help is much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

i...also only changed the cable fron an old s series model...be all workrd prop ..no line on the screen

 

With the help of this amazing guide, I replaced my cracked vpcz11 screen earlier this week. Purchased from Amazon for a little over $160 with shipping, sure beats the cost of a new laptop!

Amazon.com: SONY Z Series B131RW02 V0 Laptop Screen 13.1 Z Series B131RW02 V0 Laptop Screen WXGA++ 1600*900: Computers & Accessories

I'm very pleased with the replacement part: It's at least as good as the original, actually seems a bit brighter ( though hard to say as I lived with a cracked screen for quite a while ). Made in Japan and looked to be an exact match for the old screen save for the model number.

The replacement was a meticulous affair rather than a difficult one. So long you take your time and pay attention during dissassembly, there should be little trouble getting the laptop back together. Just as others stated in this thread, I cannot stress enough to pay attention to the wires routed behind the hinges on the lid side. I was able to skip step #2 ( removing the hinges on the body side ), as well as completely removing the screen bezel by placing the laptop on its edge, like an open book on its binding:



Again, you don't need to remove the bezel entirely, just undo the bottom and sides, then lift it up slightly slide the old screen out and the replacement in. This saved me the trouble of fiddling with the camera.

 

Thanks. This is the best price yet. Too bad they don't have the 1920x1080 version though (B131HW02).

 

Just changed my screen with this one http://www.viewonetech.com/sony-z-series-b131rw02-v0-laptop-screen/ from View One Tech. Bought from them directly since they don't ship internationally if the order is booked through Amazon. $158 + $60 shipping + about 17% customs duty.

No problems, everything went well, except that the bezel was unexpectedly difficult (my efforts only resulted in one small crack right in the middle at the bottom, just below the SONY label - can't see it at all). Another problem I had was putting back the hinges - the screws have to be put loose in the metal projection of the hinge, and then the metal projection of the hinge (with the screws) slides in under the bezel and the screws tightened.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. You guys are great.

 

I removed all the screw on the base but when I try to lift up the keyboard section, the fan on the left fan side is firmly attached to the keyboard and won't lift out of the body. The ethernet port also seems to be attached to the keyboard. What can I do? I need to open it up to tighten up the hinges which are very loose.

 

Either you didn't remove all the screws you needed to or something is seriously wrong inside your Z. When all the appropriate screws are removed, the keyboard/palmrest assembly comes right off.

 

I made sure all the screws were removed. I think it's the orange vent that is stuck to the keyboard assembly. It looks like in order to remove the screws, I'd need to break a competent inside.

 

I'm confused. If you removed all the screws, why do you think you'll need to break something to remove screws? If something melted inside, you've got bigger problems. Again, normally, just removing all necessary screws (including a couple of really small ones in front, two under the battery, and the two holding the memory door) allows you to just lift up the keyboard/palmrest (and remember to be careful with the connector underneath).

 

The copper heatsink (what you are calling orange) has a strip of sticky tape along the edge that might be sticking to the keyboard assembly. It should come loose if you lift up the other end of the aluminium keyboard section a little and allow the adhesive to peel away. The parts have enough flex in them - you should be able to tell the difference between a missed screw and adhesive tape (cloth, like sticking plaster or bandaid, only black in my case).

NOTE: some screws are hidden under little bits of sticky tape. Lift up all the little pieces of tape and make sure there are no screws still to be removed.

 

Yes the strip of sticky tape might be the reason. Jasmon, when I went to remove the screws under the battery, the plastic strip just came loose so I tighten it up again as I don't think it has anything to do with holding the keyboard assembly in place. Now that I know the orange thing is the copper heat sink, I sure hope I didn't move it out of place that the gpu will burn up in smoke.

 

Ok so I manage to remove the keyboard but can't figure out how to tighten the right hinge. There should be three screws but I can only see one which is hidden under the black tape. Were are the remaining two screws? I'm trying to close up the tighten and eliminate the gap between the hinge and the bezel (the area of the plastic piece that connects to the circular plastic hinge). There was no gap when I first purchased the laptop and now there is which causes the lid to fall further back when the lid is open.

 

Do you have the service manual? Which model have you got? VPCZ1...

This is the one for me. It supports many models of VPCZ1. Check if yours is on the list.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/kawtdm7v0i3ppex/VPCZ1.pdf

 

yes mine is the vpcz1, Here is the gap I'm referring to.

 

You need to loosen the screws slightly, push the hinge into its proper position, hold it like that, and tighten the screws. Try to figure out which screws need to be loosened for this. If you can't figure it out, I am due to open my laptop in a couple of weeks time; I'll tell you then. As long as the gap is the only thing that's out of place - nothing loose on either side - you'll be fine till then.

 

The problem is I can't find the screw that tightens the hinge to the display. Once I let go of pushing the gap together, the gap widens again. Yes, do let me know when you open yours.

 

There is a gap between the hinge and the screen that causes play when moving the lid back and forth. I opened the laptop up and only found there is only one screw on each side (left and right hinge that is covered by the black used to hold the hinge to the body. Where is the screw located to tighten up and close the gap in the pic?

 

Did you look at the picture of the hinge in the pdf I uploaded for you? You can zoom into that part and see what goes where.

 

Yes but I still can't figure out which screw tightens the display and the hinge together. I'm not going to take detach the lid from the hinge to . ind out though.

 

Okay, I opened up my laptop and then I remembered. In my case the hinge was loose on the LCD side. There are three screws under the bezel. The bezel is delicate - proceed with caution as advised in the disassembly guide.

 

What do you mean by the loose hinge on the LCD side? I mean isn't the other end of the plastic molded together with the bezel? I know there are three screws on the side of the bezel but that's not what needs to be tightened as it's already tight as possible to the point that the bottom right bezel next to the hinge is showing ripple marks on the lcd whenever the lid is moved. It's has to be another screw that is responsible for holding the hinge and display together.

Plus the three screws you're referring to on each side, only the one first to the right is used to hold down the bezel, the other two service not purchase and are merely for looks.

Other vpcz1 owners know what screw to look for? I'm sure many have opened theirs up to tighten the hinges so I can't be the only one. I really want to fix the hinges asap so I can close the lid and take in out for portable use without fear of breaking the hinges.

 

You can lead a horse to the water, but you can't make it drink.

The ripple marks you speak of - if the screws were too tight, those marks would be there all the time. They appear when the lid is moved because the stress is not being distributed properly.

By your logic, the laptop should have just one screw for each part. Anyway, better take it to a repair shop - lifting up the bezel is tricky.

Final tip - applicable to ALL laptops: always open the lid from the middle, not the corner nearest your hand. This is why right handed people get the hinge on the right hand side loose.

 

So would the ripple marks cause long term damage to the lcd? If I look closely, I can see large green stuck pixels that gradually fad away as soon as the pressure is off. Takes about 3 seconds.

Going back to the hinge, I do find it very strange that the gap in the hinge as indicated in the photo widened by just wiggling the keyboard assembly around a bit during a failed attempt of trying to remove the keyboard assembly. What I'm trying to say is if the gap can be loosen so easily, it should also be equally as easily to tighten it up without having to remove the bezel.

 

I just can't justify the cost of paying a technician for a so call repair by simply opening it up which I've done and tightening a single screw.
I just wish others could contributed to this thread.

 

You don't have to remove the bezel. There are 3 screws on each side. The 2 that are covered in black tape (on each side) are for the hinges. Just put a Phillips through the tape and tighten the screws.

I have been trying to refurbish a z so I've had in pieces a dozen times. Still works

 

I can only see two screws on each side, one covered by tape and the other located inside the circular plastic hinge cover. Where can I find the 2nd screw covered by the tape?

 

Can you or anyone please take a photo of where the 2 screws covered in black time cos I can only see one. I've been waiting for months yet no one can answer this one questions.
When I close the lid ****, the left hinge is raised and must be pushed down to get it down to even level with the other left side.
Essentially I'm trying to find the screw that is responsible for holding the lid towards the keyboard assembly.
Somebody pleeeeeassse help, it would really make my day or else I'm going to sell my laptop at the end of this week cos I'm just fed up having to unscrew the millions of screw to access the insides ever freaking day with no avail.

 

Can anybody confirm if the lid is suppose to be warped upwards towards the middle?
When I close the lid down, there is about 3 mm of play in the middle front area just above the motion eye and also the back middle section between the hinges.
Is this normal?