Z1 vs. Z2 - Sticking with the Z2

I think it'd be pretty nonsensical to pay $200 just b/c of future perceived market value. Color doesn't command that large of a difference in the used market, and will probably command even less in the months to come. I wouldn't be surprised if checking eBay reveals an under $50 difference in sell price if all other specs are kept the same. The only real reason to get another lid is because you perceive it to be worth the money.... b/c that's money you'll never get back.

 

Thanks. I feel a little silly for even bringing it up, off-topic as it was for the thread. I'm over it. Silver is my fave.

 

The Z2's going to be a pretty easy choice when (a) a Light Peak PCI-e x4 DIY eGPU (or ViDock) becomes possible, and (b) the machines start showing up refurbed in the $1,000-1,200 range sans dock.

I'm really grateful I don't have silly hangups on optical disc drives or internal discrete GPUs. The ability to convert a comparably low-cost desktop GPU into gaming muscle for ultraportables (with easy dual monitor support thrown in for free) is probably the coolest thing to come to laptops in the last three years, and its (eventual?) presence on the Z2 would really seal that deal.

 

EDIT: NVM. Brain fart. (

 

This may be true, but there still is a STRONG calling for an all in one.

 

I'm not totally clear about the add-on external GPU thing. Is it something that can also accelerate the internal laptop LCD panel display, or do you have to use an external monitor? I can see myself lugging the dock around, but not a monitor as well.

 

^
Yes it accelerates the internal display.

 

Ah, thanks. That makes more sense now.

 

Does anyone know what cleaning coompound ZoinksS2K is reffering to? I have a Premium Glossy Carbon Fiber I would like to touch up.

I have PM'ed ZoinksS2K without luck.

Thanks in advance!

 

You can't really fix scratches that (as a general rule) are deep enough to catch your finger nail. Light surface damage to the finish can be rubbed out, but without knowing what type of finish it is, I can't really tell you what to do. I would think the Glossy Carbon Fiber lid has a lacquer finish like on my Taylor guitar. The finish on that is hard, brittle and has a mirror shine.

Lacquer finishes should be pretty scratch resistant anyway because its usually quite hard. The lacquer coating on my guitar has survived knocks from pint glasses and catching sharp table edges as well as constant abrasion from my buttoned fly (heh).

But if you want to rub out minor surface imperfections you can wet sand it using progressively finer grits of sandpaper. You need to start with a microgrit so it doesn't make scratches that can be seen with the naked eye. Therefore, start somewhere around 600 or 800 grit and go all the way up to 1600 or 2000 if you can find it. Do that until you get an even matte (satin) looking finish. Then you rub with pumice powder and finally rottenstone until you can see your own reflection in it.

If you have a buffing machine then its alot easier since you can get pre treated buffing wheels.

If you have never rubbed out a finish before I recommend starting on something easier to replace and alot less expensive than a Glossy Carbon Fiber Z1 lid.

By the way, ignore all the mythical crap about toothpaste - it doesn't work.

 

There's something called rubbing compound - comes in different grades just like sandpaper and emery paper. It is mostly used for plastic, but might work on carbon fiber too.

 

Sorry folks, don't do PM's.

The Z1's lacquer is similar in substance and thickness to clear coat paint on cars. 3m has a whole line of rubbing compounds and scratch removal kits. They work well.

And yes, before I covered it with InvisibleShield, I waxed it too. Smooth

For the sake of all things great and small, don't use a rotary buffer. You shoot the laptop across the room.

 

To remove the small scratches and rub marks on my black Z13, I used Mequiar's ScratchX 2.0. Just put some on a white cotton washcloth and rubbed until the surface was smooth. Polish off with a clean cloth and then wiped with a moist one. I finished with a coat of carnuba wax. Really shines now. and the carnuba is a hard finish was, so it doesn't show fingerprints as much as some other polishes.

 

I'm digging the Wrapsol kit for the Z2. It has a mat finish that I didn't think I'd like. It is basically fingerprint proof.

There is a full body shield available for the Z1 from Zagg, btw.

 

This is becoming an issue for me too after a month or two with the Z2. My wrists and hands are starting to hurt like they are overstrained and I can feel my hands aching while I type sometimes. I work online most of the day so the additional pressure required to press these keys is going to cause issues in the long run...

-NB-

 

Have either of you played piano before? (unrelated, just a curiosity).

I guess try touch typing? It's something a few keyboard users have to pick up when using cherry mx blue switches - which have a very loud double actuation noise... IF you floor it, "floating across the keys" or simply typing less harder helps reduce the noise to a minimum, and prevents my hands from going crazy after a couple hours of typing on the iPad2's display (DON'T ASK).

 

I actually prefer the Z2 keyboard over the Z1's. I don't like the right shift key though. Having used and liked the MBA for awhile, i was adjusted to the shallow keys and thin profile.

 

Sorry for revieving the old thread but..
How can I enable that? I enabled USB charging in the VAIO control center but usb charging will only work when the ac adapter is plugged in.