Windows 10 Clean Installation Guide

Why install latst Cumulative patch junk Update from the Redmond HQ?

Microsoft Acknowledges CPU Spike Bug – Here’s How to Uninstall the Last Windows 10 Update to Fix This Problem

 

strange so have you told msmg.? i ve read that too. i wanted to try the tool myself and learn but for 1903 ive downloaded latest version wich isnt supported. so downloaded 1809 since there i can update without apps beign reinstalled. but again downloaded unsupported version. so ive opted to used yours. and am going to try and update right now manually

 

I reported it to him and he told me that's not possible and on his test machine the components do come back whether the updates were installed via Windows Update or manually. That wasn't what I experienced though. Strange.

 

Happens on even NTLite'd and Win toolkit too. Only way was to disable WU with win update disabler.

 

hi. mine had problems the taskbar will no longer work.. i had to reinstall like 4 times.. i find out after clean installation went ahead and installed my quadro 2000m nvidia driver and that caused the taskbar not to work... finally i decided to not install nvidia driver.. but unfortunatelly when i did the last clean install after it completed the procces it reboted just to finish and use laptop. my dell m4600 is now stuck at dell logo. doesnt get past that f12 does nothing.. the bar fills up below the dell logo but stays there..
pressing f12 gives a yellow letters that itll boot to f12 but just stays like thst.

 

Have you tried Clean installing using Stock OS Win 10 v1903? If it works then MSFT might have implemented a block that breaks Windows 10 when certain component is removed!
If its a Dell Precision or similar workstation I recommend sticking to v1809 LTS branch or in disabled Win updates mode to be on safe side.

 

yes worked fine on win 7 and 1809 and 1903.. dont think microsoft blocks. it must be that the modded iso breaks for me something... but my concern now its stuck at dell logo...

 

Great guide @Ultra Male thanks for the time and effort put into this!

 

@Papusan Ultra Male, do you know any program that traces the cause of a slow boot up on windows 10? I have a 850 evo m.2 ssd, used to boot up around 15 to max 30 seconds. Now it takes a minute or more. I didn't really take noticed of this right away which is why I have delete my oldest macrium reflect image thinking that I don't have any issues. I am using 1809 Ultra Male version and tweaks also on latest update which all updates I installed manually. Oh just remembered, the only think that I suspect that was my mistake was installing intel graphic command center and Forza Horizon 4 demo(for benchmark) in MS store which means internet was ON while I my O&O shut up 10 allowing windows update sp that I can use MS store.

 

BootRacer

 

Don't take it as personal offense what I'm going to say!
Its actually a flaw with SSD, our infamous BIOS's fTPM aka firmware TPM implementation and Windows drive encryption switching to SW encryption instead of TCG 3.0 of SSD.
My 850 evo m.2 was writing at 5MB/s on Linux OS and performance was ******** and it was really worse than 256GB Samsung EVO+ SD card write speed. I tried Secure erasing thrice to no avail and suddenly I saw TPM error whilst booting up Linux and disabled TPM in BIOS which fixed the issue but the slow write speed came back even after TRIMming the SSD every week.
I tried to experiment a little by creating a small 10GB partition and partitioned itself as NTFS and booted into Windows 10 to run SSD optimize and voila my SSD write speed was back to 390MB-500MB for seq and 4k R/W. Then, I came to conclusion why Samsung says the drive will work optimally on Windows only and we don't support Linux or OS X.

You can try disable full disk encryption and disable TPM in firmware.

 

@Spartan

I just did a fresh install of Win10 pro x64 - 1903 and it looks like MS increased the size of [partition 1 - recovery] from 450mb to 529mb. So in order to get an exact partition size as described in post #2 of this thread, I had to add an additional 79mb.
Example from post #2: (200.1 x 1024) + 565 644mb.



edit, i may have uploaded the wrong screenshot, it should of showed 110.1Gb, but it worked and the math was correct.

 

Recovery part size has changed from v1803 and above, v1803 -> 550MB, v1809 and above -> 590-610MB

 

Thanks, I'll edit the guide

 

I did all the steps and now it seems my search function is being odd.. When I search for something in the explorer it does not auto filter things like usual, I have to manually press enter to bring up results, is this a windows 1909 feature or did I do something wrong?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

Can you please re-upload the link for debloated 1903 ISO?

 

Would love to have it to thanks

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

I don't have it anymore and I switched to Mac. Sorry.

 

Any debloated link you can recommend? And yiu don't have the iso?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks anyway, your tips for clean instalation helped a lot.

Will you create something for MacOS like you did for W10, some guide, firewall rules ...? MacOS have telemetry also, maybe little less than Windows

 

I will try @sixor debloated version, http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/windows-10-nobloatware-edition.810557/

You need Telegram app for download links. He removed everything, in thread I read there are some minor bugs (maybe removed Windows Store causing trouble, 95% of the time you will not notice), but this is the closest to Ultra Male's (Spartan's) debloated ISO.

 

Have you checked Majorgeeks?

 

With Mac OS bro, all you need to do is turn off data sharing, diagnostics, and developer stuff and you're good,. it's literally a few switches in the Settings Panel and you'r done

Also see: NBR Recommended Mac Apps

 

And you trust on Apple?

 

There is only Windows 10 No Bloatware Edition and links are removed. It's posted on 11/27/2017, probably based on 1709 update so not very interesting. Or I am search noob If you find something post it or PM.

 

If you absolutely want a none genuine OS http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/micro-windows-isos-not-verified-by-nbr.830711/

 

Papu by any chance you have tried and tested this OS?

 

Have tested genuine 1909 with own tweaks. I don’t use OS from people I don’t know who is. And of course, I reverted to my old. New ain’t always better. Just look at all flaws with 1903. The fall upgrade (1909) is built on top of the flawed latest and greatest! If you can... Stay with what you already have if it’s works for you.

 

Thanks to you keeping people informed I am still on 1809. I was hoping Spartan would have tamed the OS as he is really knowledgeable or even played with the new ones and revert back to the stable version like what your doing. Overall he gave up. Cant blame him though. Still from reading, what I learned that new tech is always not good. Have to wait for developers, manufacturers and etc to patch and fix issues. Anyways this is off topic. I'll just stay in the background and read the forum. ^_^

 

My homemade 1909 ISO took out my Audio and no sound was coming from it.

 

I think 1909 buggy as f.. Makes my gpu power limit at 50w on aw 51m

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

That sucks big time. 1909 is same as 1903 with bug fixes.

 

Actually it was NOT 1909 and I found a pretty nice build, am I allowed to share teamOS things here?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

 

Make your own thread for custom OS. Not in here.

 

@Mr. Fox

This works like a charm

For people who have an Enterprise Key and want download Windows 10 Enterprise, see:
Download Windows 10 Enterprise ISO With Media Creation Tool

 

Hi, Im planning to install the latest version using you guide as usual since you don't do the bloatware free anymore. I am also aware you have left windows and using macOS. I have noticed the links are not working anymore. I am hoping if you would reupload them? Thanks.

 

Also the same for this link. Would you re upload them? Thanks

 

What is reason not to log in with your MS account? Is there an issue with deactivated telemetry etc. later on? Any security issues?

EDIT:
I have already deleted all telemetry and data sniffing from the installation ISO with NTLite, where possible without breaking the OS. My main user with my current installation is actually my MS account. Hence my question.

EDIT2:
Found out myself. My next clean installation will use a local user again. With Pro, i don't need to be offline for this. They removed the option for the Home version, if you are online, so i have understood.

 

Microsoft has backdoored its disk encryption.

ONE OF THE EXCELLENT FEATURES of new Windows devices is that disk encryption is built-in and turned on by default, protecting your data in case your device is lost or stolen. But what is less well-known is that, if you are like most users and login to Windows 10 using your Microsoft account, your computer automatically uploaded a copy of your recovery key — which can be used to unlock your encrypted disk — to Microsoft’s servers, probably without your knowledge and without an option to opt out.


Would you give away the house key with the address tag to random strangers you meet on the street outside your house?

 

What's even more baffling than M$'s virus is the voluntary submission among the majority of the users. Major *face palm* I know...

All these companies "gottem already.." They own them secretly.

 

@Mr. Fox This new tool called Ventoy is awesome!

You create just one USB Flash Disk then you can throw all your ISOs on it and when you boot off it, it gives you the choice as to which ISO you wanna load to install the OS so you can have multiple OSes on the same ISO but what's more surprising is the installation takes quarter of the time that the regular Flash disk created by Rufus or the Media Creation Tool! I literally installed Windows in 1 minute!

I use Supersonic Rage 2 USB Sticks!

 

Nice seeing you are happy with the tool I can't remember last time I used Moco$lopes Media Creation Tool.

 

@Spartan the Ventoy link in your post goes to a foreign YouTube video.

 

Thanks for notifiying me! Fixed the link

 

I've been using AiOBoot since 2 years. I've Sergei Strelec, HBCD, Win 10 v1809/1909, custom Ubuntu budgie, Xubuntu and UBuntu along with few LiveCD AVs from ESET, Kaspersky and Dr. Web.
I've deprecated v1809 and Ubuntu now since I'm waiting for Ubuntu 20.04 reviews if its not working, I'll waiting point releases for Xubuntu and Budgie.

I'll wait for couple of versions of Ventoy since I might be using custom ISO of Linux and Windows so its completely different from Stock ISO.

 

Sweet. I was just thinking about grabbing a handful of thumb drives. Now I don't have to.
Thanks.
Seems to work great. I tried it with Gparted and my W7 iso for a test. I thought the W7 failed to boot, but I remembered it's flaky with UEFI.

 

Spartan, I've been thanking you a lot, lately, but thanks again for your effort on this thread. It's helped me and countless others, I'm sure. Couple questions (after first paragraph).

New Alienware Area 51m with a reoccurring battery drain issue (while completley shutdown with nothing connected, USB powershare disabled, etc. etc). After countless days of troubleshooting, I decided to follow this guide to do a fresh/clean install. First time through, I still see the battery drain while shutdown, but now it's every day instead of only twice a week. Did another clean install and same thing only now it's 10% drain instead of just 6% drain. The first two times I didn't do diskpart/clean because I didn't know if having two drives in raid would be more difficult to deal with. I'm not a novice, but I'm a little rusty with all the new tech.

1) is diskpart/clean actually better than just deleting the partitions with the setup wizard? According to documentation, it only removes partitions, as far as I can tell.
2) if I diskpart/clean a raid array will I need to reinstall the raid driver? It's not on the USB install flash drive I downloaded from MS, so want to know if I'll need it in advance or is it going to stay in raid regardless? That's my guess, but want to be sure I don't screw something up.

(Before anyone asks, Tech support says my battery is fine and working as expected, so I'm on my own. But we all know 6% or more battery drain in one evening is not normal.)

 

The same dell tech support team said, bulged battery is fine to use since dell Support assist doesn't report any issue.
If you want to check if battery is dying or faulty, just drain till 5% and charge it 90% and then drain it 10% and repeat it thrice and if its bad battery it will crap out very soon. But, during this lockdown I'm unsure if you want to try unless your warranty expires in a month or two even after extension.
Disk management GUI internally uses diskpart commands so its pretty safe. Double check volume letter and drive 0/1/'x' before deleting a disk or partition.

 

1) diskpart /clean is my way to go as it deletes any system partitions that may have existed before, it's also essential for older systems which may have been initialized as MBR but now must be in GPT since they are wanting to install Windows in UEFI and it's faster so why not do it anyway.

2) Windows has a built in RAID Driver already, you can either load your preferred (ie. latest) driver from the get go or install it afterwards in the drivers installation phase.

As for the battery drain, did you ensure you do a reset to defaults from the BIOS, then save/exit then re-enter BIOS and set whatever parametrs you want? I always do that after a BIOS upgrade/downgrade and the first thing I do is turn OFF USB Power Share and set the battery to Custom 90/50 charge limit

 

Reset Bios, interesting. I hadn't thought of that. But that's why they pay yo uthe big bucks... or they should, anyway. Clean install #3 completed. Now we wait...