[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

It's power limit throttling due to the Power limit 1 being set to 45W on stock in the BIOS and my tests show that at stock it can pull up to 47W. Simple fix is to set it to customization and increase the power limit to 50W (50000 in the BIOS). However, I personally set it to 100W for both PL1 and PL2 (100000) as with an overclock it would pull up to 80W.

Just in case someone asks. This does not mean that the CPU will constantly run at a 100W. It just means that it can use up to 100W and anything over 100W will cause power limit throttling. Even at a power limit of 100W my stock clocks pulls 47.58W max.

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Why would the replacement price be any different from the original purchase? Did they provide you with a discount for your trouble?

 

I got the new AW 17 1080GTX and yes, it has the overheating 90 degrees plus issue. I decided to give it a shot so I asked for @iunlock to use his service by him repasting the unit. His results are outstanding so I gave it a shot. I will give you my results after I get the unit next week

 

I sent the first one back and reordered a new one


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Turn off the alienware fx lights. It uses a surprisingly high amount of battery power.

 

@iunlock - this is a double post but instead I tagged you

For the AW15 R3, are the thermal pads required similar in quantity as the AW17R4? Looking to order soon!

 

It seems you're not interested with the unit anyway judging by the tone of your posts and your history.

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Yes

 

hello, I'm really new to liquid metal thermal paste. I was reading your Post on how to repaste your alienware 17 r4. I noticed you used scotch electrical tape when applying the paste. why was that? and also did you leave that tape on the motherboard when you put it back together?

 

If you leak LM onto the PCB you're likely to short circuit something. In an earlier post (either here or in the owner's lounge), he [iunlock] stated that for this reason, he leaves the tape on as a safeguard.

 

@iunlock @mobious

Any plans to make a very detailed video? This is my first gaming laptop and I get confused between steps.

Can you provide more detail in cleaning the processor and applying the paste? Also, confused about the electrical tape.

Thanks


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You can clean with alcohol and some coffee filter, use gentle pressure after dissolving the gray stock paste.

Tape is applied around the die area, this is to shield the surrounding components from liquid metal.

For a beginner, I do not recommend liquid metal because of the danger involved. I suggest you be extra careful not to spill anything.

@Mr. Fox has an excellent liquid metal application (spreading the liquid metal to the cpu) video on his youtube (mrfoxrox2)

 

What paste would you recommend for a beginner?

Do you think a beginner can repaste the r3 15?

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Yes, but set aside plenty time to make sure you can be super careful.

Grizzly Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme, ICD7/24 (need to be careful as this is a bit abrasive), and Noctua NT-H1 good paste, performs within error margin of each other. You might have to warm the tube of ICD7/24 in hot water first though.

 

Any recommended techniques in applying the paste? Everyone has a different technique it seems

It is safe to leave electrical tape on the mobo for 5 years or extended period of time?

How difficult is it pulling the heat sink/fan assembly off the processors?

Appreciate your time to answer my noob questions.


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I personally use rice grain, you don't need to waste more paste than what's needed to cover the entire silicon die.


Yes, this tape is designed to last longer than 5 years. (3M 33+)


Not difficult, but you need to be patient and set aside a lot of time to double check everything before taking off a screw etc.

 

Purchased a AW 17 R4 with the GTX 1080 , I haven't received it yet. I bought this laptop for something to grow into, its more power than I would need for my current gaming needs but I was hoping to try more games.

I am very new to modifying a laptop, but I have completed a few tower mods but by far not a expert. I have tons of experience in circuitry machine work and automotive.

A few questions, im on the fence on the repaste myself or try and find someone I trust to do it.

Fujipoly pads I am having a hard time finding the 100x15x 1.0 11w/mk pads. I can find the recommended size pads in 17w/mk would. It be ok to use these instead?

Any thought on the use of 3M liquid electric tape? Probably overkill I use super 33+ at work and have hundreds of rolls its great tape and survives exposure to being pumped 2 to 3 miles into the earth sometimes with a bottom hole temp of 390 degrees so I can vouch for the strength and design

The best fix for this laptop is LM repaste with replacement pads and bending the single arm for more contact? I want to go that route but most dont recommend for beginers, anyone near North Dakota who repaste? I had the laptop shipped where I work but I can bring to Texas when I go home

When applying the Super33 are you using the edge of a plastic tool to press the edge of the tape? Might be the angle of the pics but it appears theres a line running down the edge

Hearing alot of killer WIFI complaints, and I paid to upgrade to the next higher Killer wifi card. Which intel Card do people recommend?

I dont have enough posts for pm, but if iunlock, or someone in that team wants to pm me I gladly would entertain sending my laptop off when i get it to be repasted. I am trying to decide when i have all info, because if not I want to gather my supplies to try it myself

Thanks for any and all replies

 

My AW 17 1080GTX is being worked on by iunlock. He is legit. I'll let him know.

 

I have seen alot of his work and he does great work. I just didnt know if he had time or where he is even located. I dont want to mess up a brand new machine, but part of me really wants to dive in head first.

 

Also with mine laptop not even being shipped hey can see how Dell is updating to combat these problems. I am sure its just a bios update(bandaid). Its sad that they cannot stand behind their product and this thermal paste has been used for so long, then the design flaw with the three screw mount. But I am hoping with the work these guys have put in iunlock and the rest that I can have a stable machine to grow with.

 

Hi all. Firstly, I've been lurking for a few weeks and I love this forum. Rare to see such a group of smart but very courteous folks helping each other out.... kudos. So a few weeks ago I ordered my new AW 17 (1070 QHD). I've been reading your posts with some interest and assuming the same problems described here plague my machine I definitely intend to either repaste it or have it repasted. I've ordered both kryonaut and conductonaut for this.... will decide which one to use more or less at the last moment.

I've never done a repaste before.... except a failed attempt at preparing my xbox red ring a few years back, heh. I'm interested in people's impressions of the risk level of the liquid metals. From watching various videos and reading how-to articles it doesn't seem terribly difficult... basically just like colouring inside the lines.... and so am inclined to use that method. To be honest, I am way more concerned I will screw up with the disassembly/reassembly than anything else.

Am I way off base?

Thanks . Keep up the good work!

 

Liquid metal is liquid, you better start pushing the syringue upward vertically like before a real injection to avoid air bubbles, and when a drop's starting to go out, then you bring it above the CPU or GPU and push very gently. Chasing after liquid metal 's drops on a motherboard isn't something you wan't to experiment, believe me.

 

Repasting a cpu/gpu isn't necessarily an overly difficult or complex job in and of itself. That said, the 17 R4's disassembly does add to the complexity by all accounts, and using LM increases the risk quite substantially. Bottom line, if you've never done a repaste before, this sort of project may not be the best way to get your feet wet.

 

Thanks for the feedback! The part about spilling onto the mobo certainly does give me pause.... the electrical tape would seem to mitigate that problem though, no?

Does anyone have a method for organizing all the pieces and parts as they take it apart? I'm thinking of labelling shot glasses as I go to put screws and the like in.

 

At the end of the day, it's your laptop. IMO, the fact that you're asking questions such as these really is indicative of why you probably should not being considering this. If you're going to go ahead anyway, consider using kryonaut instead of conductonaut, at the very least.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/i-am-so-screwed-hah-repasted-and-broke-the-laptop.799112/

 

I would recommend a magnetic tray to organize all the screws.

 

Probably a good idea. I won't receive my R4 until next week but from what I've been reading around here, the screws are numerous relative to other builds.

 

Oh yeah, you can also use a small whiteboard like this from my G752VS disassembly thread.

Just be thankful it isn't as much screws as the asus

 

I DON'T Highly recommend placing the HDD in that magnetic tray...unless you want to. haha

Harbor Freights cheapo Magnetic trays are awesome to use here. That magnetic whiteboard is good for tricky screw locations.

Also, bookmark this for further review and information on servicing the 17 R4.

http://www.dell.com/support/manuals...8DE7B7-879F-45A4-88E0-732155904029&lang=en-us

It's not too bad though. Most of the screws are the same size for alot of the same mounting locations or common hardware.

M2x3 is used for M.2 SSD, WiFi, CPU/GPU heatsink. M2.5x5 is HDD, M2.5x(10?) is pretty much everywhere else. iunlocks teardown thread is super handy since the screw locations are highlighted. Makes it really simple to do.

You sound like you're not the type to put a screw thru the palm rest lol.

 

Anyone have a line on the fujipoly 11wmk 1.0 mm, I cant seem to find any

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Fujipoly-m...F8&qid=1481343171&sr=8-4&keywords=fujipoly+11

 

I have a question regarding traditional paste which is more thicker gelid or kryonaut and long lasting too ?

 

Iunlock is online and he can help you

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Hmm...that's a tough one....despite what it says on paper, they are both about the same, but I'd give Kyronaut the edge in thickness. Then again, the characteristics change when it's heated so it's hard to tell.

What I can tell you for certain is that I've never had any pump out with either of those two pastes.

Hope that helps...

 

Yes very true...especially with Grizzly Conductonaut syringe. I normally hold it over a paper towel first, then once I get a nice bead of metal, I place it on top of the cpu and gpu die. Holding upright is a great idea as well like you've said...

For first timers or even a Couple of timers, I agree....use Kyronaut instead. Fail proof really...

Well....I'm refraining from saying yes to that, because if one is not used to the pressure of the syringe and it's behavior, the LM can also have some surprises causing the liquid metal to get all over the motherboard. However....ultimately yes the tape will save you to a certain degree...

Well said.

 

iunlock thoughts on the Aorus X5 V6?

 

Just cut to size with a sharp knife?

 

Yes. Or you can use Scissors. But having a razor is nice since you can also use the thin edge to help lift the plastic covering on the thermal pad. Just makes it easier. Scissors are nice for cutting long straight lines.

Gelid is thicker out of the tube at room temp. Kryonaut not as thick. Have both on hand and having used both: it's a toss up which one is truly superior in cooling at this point. I haven't used both in a back to back to know for certain. BUT in other reviews, it's slightly better.

When it comes to application, the Kyronaut is hands down easier to work with. It's not as thick at room temperature and easier to spread out using the spatula provided.

Price points seem even: I choose the Grizzly Kryonaut over the Gelid since it's easier to apply.

 

Okay but which is better for uneven heatsink as icd7 is very thick but the heat transfer sucks.

@iunlock how did u use the lm as the heatsink is uneven and u said that a completly flat hs is required for lm otherwise it dries out or worse runs out.

 

CLU or Conductonaut. No paste is worth a damn trying to even out gaps. Even using CLU or other LM in this fashion isn't the ideal solution and pushes the LM to it's limits.

Might want to farm this work out.
.

 

Lol just downgraded to BIOS 1.0.2 and VOILA. My temps has dropped with 10 degrees with Core undervolt -0.150V. I am speachless.

I've repasted the machine a week ago with IC Diamond 7.

AW 15R3
I7 6700HQ
GTX 1070
16GB RAM
256 SSD + 1TB HDD
FHD

edit: I uploaded and a screen shot after 1 hour OCCT.

 

It's a contender, but I would still opt for the new AW over the Aorus for several reasons, which I refrain from going into details, but one thing right off the bat is when laptops only come with a 200W PSU....makes me think twice....There are a ton more reasons...feel free to PM and we can chat.

I use an exacto knife and not scissors. With Fujipoly pads, I cut into the pad on the soft plastic side, but making sure to not cut all the way through so the harder bottom layer still stays together. It's just how I've always done it...

Great question. Although there is a gap between the heat sink and die, due to the properties of LM, consisting of several types of different metals in its elemental state, IF the gap isn't a wide one LM will bond together pretty well even in a low pressure compressed area like with laptops. It becomes an issue when the gap or spacing that is sandwiching the LM exceeds the breaking point of the metal(s) properties that make up LM, which mostly consists of gallium. I've tested the use of LM several times on uneven heat sinks (controlled test) just to see how LM would behave under low pressure and moving around (since I travel a lot). Although there was pump out (as expected) the 'fall out,' was not as bad as I had thought it would be given the amount of movement that it had incurred. This is not to say that I condone the use of LM in severe scenario's where the gap is very wide, however, even with the gap issue that we are facing with the new AW's, using LM on those even without a fix will be just fine if done properly. - For anyone new to repasting, I would not recommend LM. Going with a traditional non-conductive paste like Grizzly Kyronaut is pretty much fail proof.

 

I would like to add that new AW has Graphics Amplifier thus making it future proof while Aorus do not have.



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Agree on this; this is one of the pros of AW that's holding me back from grabbing the X5 V6. I'm liking the idea of owning a 13 R3 > GPU Amp. Just hate that it only comes with a 6700 and not 6820HK (non upgradeable)

 

Hi @iunlock
After repasting my aw17 my temps are great now. I have only one problem now. My fans run all the time @ 2600rpm and 2700rpm and i have no idea why... temps are great so far. Can you give me any tip?

Edit: Ok the problem is the cpu perfomance mode in the Bios. If i enable it to change the powerlimits my fans run higher even during idle. With perfomance mode disabled my fans are quiet... mhm is this normal? Can anyone confirm this?

 

you know the Chinese on your right fan says: 'not good'

 

I posted about the same thing the other day but never got a response from anyone. At default settings mine is fine too they almost never turn up, but with performance mode on they seem to be running full blast like 70% of the time.

 

Normal, the auto fan curve is ok for normal gaming use. The performance opt in bios is for overclock mode or if you live in very high ambient temp location.

neither is the tripod heatsink that they use, but hey...

 

Hey just curious, were these temps obtained with fan performance mode on or off?

 

I left the performance fan mode off in the bios with my overclock.My cpu is only hovering around 40-50c just browesing online but my fans are revving like im up to 80c. So i dont think the auto fan control is working right when you set a overclock in the bios.