[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

I have just received confirmation of my laptop being repaired & shipped back to me. It seems the motherboard was fried, either by ESD or the Liquid Metal. Hopefully they will specify what exactly when I read the diagnostic report.

If I wanted to repaste again I will use the Kryonaut instead of LM. But I rather have a pro do it than me. I don't want to go through this hassle again.

I live in NYC does anyone know a reputable person/company in my area that can repaste it for me with the paste of my choosing ?

 

I think there's someone from the LHz team over New York. They can do a lot more than repasting if you talk to them.

 

I'm sorry I don't know them. Do they have a contact/website link on here?

 

Ask @iunlock @DeeX @zergslayer69

 

I got back my Alienware today. they replaced my motherboard & everything works normally so far. I don't know whether they replaced the heatsink as well with the padding I bought & replacing the original stock thermal pads. I hope they didn't. I will play some games for a while & monitor the temps.

 

They probably used their own (tooth)paste and thermal pads.

 

They replaced the thermal paste, but no mention about the padding.

After 3-4 hours of gaming last night I noticed temps were a bit cooler than usual. Averaging about -3c all around. So they might've paid extra attention with the replacement motherboard or I just got lucky.

 

hey every one i have and alienware 17 r4 with a i7 7820hk and the gtx 1080 and i am getting temps on my cpu of up to 97c and my gpu up to 90c i have repasted 2 times and still no help all of my cores on my cpu are with in 3-5c from each other and i am using artic silver 5 thermal paste should i try the grizzly karyonite and re pad oud do you think there is somthing else wrong

 

Kyronaut is the best traditional paste. You should be able to bring it down to the low 90's or 80's with UV. Are those peak temp core differentials, if so they are spot on. At least your heatsink is even. Only liquid metal will bring you cool temps.

 

Try a stress test like AIDA64. I know @Papusan has a guide for that.

 

yeas that is my peek temps and do you think i can do anything with my thermal pads to get it down any coolor at all?

 

Same problem as @speedsweep. See his re-paste guide thread.

Time for replace the TRIPOD heatsink.

 

How are you stress testing it, what overclock are you running (if any?) and have you undervolted? Overvolted? Or are just stock?

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No pads will not help, the temperature sensors you see for CPU are not for or related to the chips for by the pads

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Hi guys, asking for help. I repast my AW 17r4 6700/1070 oc with normal paste grizzly korynaut, results is ok for me 77 on hottest core after 2 hours gaming Daying Loght. During Disassembly I disconnect main battery and BIOS battery(small black rounded battery). During first boot in bios was window, I don't remember smth like BIOS OVERCKLOCKING ERROR, I push continue, system doesn't see my 1070 Oc card, I download driver, update it in nvidia experience, all is ok my card working on 1860 MHz.

But the problem what I have when I open hwinfo65, CPU-z, gpu-z or some program which need admin rules system freeze fo 0,5-1 sec(my mouse cursor) when windows open window with program. My system on m.2 ssd 128 toshiba, and programs on my 1tb hdd.

Sorry for my English, a am from Ukraine.

 

Hmm doesn't sound like that is anything to do with your GPU to me. Have you rebooted into Windows safe mode and tried to observe the same fault?

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I will tried to do it today at home.

Pete don't you know, I need to make some adjustments in BIOS after my CMOS battery where disconnected couple hours?!


Отправлено с моего iPhone используя Tapatalk

 

@UjinKuzmenko : yes this is a normal behavior.
Everytime you disconnect the CMOS for some time, on the first start it will go into the BIOS and tell you to "setup" because it lost the time and day.

But don't, worry, just hit setup, leave the BIOS and when you will be on Windows it will adjust automatically, and the same for the BIOS on the next restart.

 

Hello. Guys, why do we have such holes on our fans? I suppose to cool the heat pipes? It seems to me that blowing out hot air does not happen outside the laptop. What do you think?

 

Guys please visit my noob question here http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/alienware-17-r4-i7-7820hk-oc-level-3-question.811781/
It seems i posted it in the wrong place...

 

I have read so many posts about the temperature and I am so surprised most of them don't mention the temperature of the surrounding environment. It makes numbers become totally useless to me.
Whether the posters don't aware of it or any other reasonable explanation???

 

Hmm I post my question here. This is actually in my other post

I just did a re-paste, re-pad, copper shim pad CPU and GPU. Grizzly Conductonaut, Alphacool 11W/m K pad
The temps look OK.
Then I selected OC Level 3 in the BIOS, it showed:
1 Active Core: 44
2 Active Core: 43
3 Active Core: 43
4 Active Core: 42
and +100mV to CPU Voltage.

For the "stock" OC Level 3, Prime95 seems stable (didn't run it for long) but when I tried to set all of them to 44 and do a Prime95 test I had BSoD immediately (understandable). Then I increase the additional CPU Voltage from +100 to +105, +110, +115 and for each I run Prime95 again but all the time it reported failure at one certain core VERY SOON. Why is that? I just changed the max speed of 3 cores a bit and I already applied 15mV more. It makes me think that the failure has a different cause rather than the voltage.

My questions are:
1) In Dell's OC Level 3 why with more than one active core the max speed is reduced?
2) Why did I always have a failure running Prime95 after I set all cores to 44 with additional voltage? It happened very soon.
3) Is my temp acceptable? Running Prime95 (produce max heat option) at Dell's OC Level 3: Max core temp was 81 C, max differences were within 5 C. Room temperature was about 30 C.

Thanks in advance,

 

It's voltage.
You understand that if you get an instant BSOD at a certain vcore (let's say, 1.15v), if the BSOD was INSTANT, then that means you're going to need at least 1.20v to even have a chance at passing it. A BSOD in 1 second means your system is not even stable enough for anything. So you're looking at +150mv for starters.
You can't expect to go from instant BSOD (example, 1.15v) and expect 1.165v to not give a core error.

This is just an example. You're better off using MANUAL voltage so you know exactly what voltage you need for stability. Only mess with offsets once you know what adaptive voltage is giving you to begin with.

 

I'm not sure what volt is stock, but if he put in +115mv on top for 44x he is nearer 1.35v

 

Oh I mixed up 15mv and 115mv. Oh Well. I deserve this.

That being said, I know of no 7820HK that will not do x44 at 1.35v IF re-pasted. 1.35v is extremely high. But on tripod heatsinks. that's 100C if vcore is 1.35v.....

 

I don't know, damn Prime95 threads just failed at exactly one core everytime. Then the rest run happily...
Max temperature during the test (before and after 1 core failed) never exceeded 83C...with ambient temperature about 30C.
So you said I probably have a defect CPU?

 

Hi mate, i purchased AW 15 r3 with 6700hq CPU. My temp are so bad (95°) so i want try to repaste.
My notebook mount GTX 1070 as GPU.
Ok for thermal paste, but I would know for my notebook the tickness of Thermal pad should i use. Which photo I've to see?
Thanks in advance

 

Yes I think you definitely should do a repaste. And if you want a bit adventure do a liquid metal repaste.
The correct thickness you should use should be measured by yourself only because each heatsink is different.
You can use a very cheap and soft thermal pad with different thicknesses, then install the heatsink back WITHOUT ANY PASTE (well I capitalized those words because if you do it you will waste your time and money, also in the case of liquid metal, you can accidentally let it goes to the board). After that remove the heatsink and observe the dens that those chips made on the thermal pads. You know what to do next.
Also you can observe by your eyes and a good flash light.

 

Ok Thanks. The problem is only around the CPU , the white pad (0.1m Thick) do not touch under chips. That's normal?

 

That white pad is not directly related to your CPU temperature. But any thermal pad should touch the chip it is designed to cool, or better touch well (a bit pressed to the chip). So you'd better fix it.

 

Thanks,

This guide, among others, has made me feel confident about my choice in buying the Alienware 17 R4.

Is there a big thermal output difference between the GTX 1070 and 1080 after repaste?

 

Hi
Im about to get AW 13 R3. My question is, because I'v seen some posts regarding this, there are 2 variations of heatsink in 15 R3. Sunbeen (or something like that) and Tripod?
I wonder, what if I stumble on the worse one? Is there even a point to repase laptop and play with it or just resend it to dell due to high temps?
I'm want to achieve as cool laptop as possible (LM + undervolt) not as high OC and performance, so I'd really like to make this right.
Could someone explain me the thing with heatsinks?
Also
I'm deep in computers and stuff, done dozens repasting, PC builds, laptops cleaning, and I'm confident about LM even when there is risk. Are they many cases of failure? Because I'm only seeing joy of -20C temps drop, but never stumbled across person who fryed his laptop. Can't remind about examples in PC cooling either, so its striked me like something regular + some electrical tape but other than that we're good to go?
Thanks for all, and have a nice day!

 

You are deep in computers, so you enlighten us...

 

MiSJAH's guide on how NOT to Liquid Metal repaste!!

 

sorry to double post. Just wondered how much thermal grizzly conductonaut I need for my 17 R4 1g or 5g?

Thanks!!

 

I had a failure with LM on my first XPS 15. Fried the GTX 1050! Great care is needed and protection against pump out is essential

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1g is more than enough for 2 to 3 repastes for sure

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Hi guys,

What purpose do the blobs of glue serve on the corners of the gpu ..? See image. Is it to keep the gpu in place or stop it touching the board ?

 

Hi to everybody on this forum. It's a great forum and a lot of details needed are more than provided.
I plan on repasting my Alienware 17 R4 but I'm wondering on how important are the cooling pads?
They are quite expensive (if I'm to buy 3x1.0mm and 3x0.5mm) for my gtx 1080 equipped laptop - around 11£ a piece so only the pads will go over 65£ to buy here in UK.
I will repaste using liquid ultra from CooLaboratory as I used it to repaste my last Alienware 18 and I was more than pleased with the result I got with the 4940MX cpu.

Regards

 

They're not expensive at all.
Just buy the Arctic 145x145mm pads. You can get the big 1mm and 0.5mm pads.

USA site but
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTXSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know a few users hate the arctic pads but they work just fine, are flexible and won't crumble when disassembling, AND don't cost a kidney like the Fujipoly pads do (paying for something less than 1/4th the size for the same price is highway robbery).

 

Hey @iunlock ..!! Hope you're doing good.
I've read and watched almost everything you have posted here and your youtube interview and stuff. I have to say that's some excellent work. It's a shame we pay so much money to Dell and they aren't doing anything about it even after your extensive tests and results and views. I love my laptop. I've always been a fan of Alienware and I'm really thankful to them for making such a good laptop, but they really should hire you to work on the upcoming models. Or atleast fix it and give an honorary mention.
Anyway,
I own an Alienware 17R4 - 7820hk, GTX1080, 16GB 2667, 120HZ 2k model. I live in India. I purchased this in USA when i was visiting last year. I have a 4 years premium support with 4 years accidental warranty. And based on everything i've read, my warranty won't be void after following your guide. I'm facing the same problem as everyone i guess, CPU temps easily reach 100c on all cores, there's a sensor named CPU package - which reaches 105c. The GPU reaches 90+c after playing for like 15 minutes. I have ordered Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, Scotch 33+ tape and Arcticlean Kit. I just need a little help deciding which pads to get, there are two available - a 17W/mk and a 11W/mk, which one should i order..?
Also please help me with a size of the heatsink for the PCH mod, and if i should use LM here or not, i mean it's gotta be loose what with only glue to hold it together.?
Thanks again for making our life easier. Good day.

 

Instead of Conductonaut, buy TG kryonaut or Phobya Nanogrease extreme. Go for Arctic pads instead of Fujipoly because for Indian conditions Arctic pads are best.
Take your time and do a rough diagram and take it very slow because the components break very easily especially the WLAN from Killer.
You should have got it from Hidevolution with all the tweaks. ₹4L on a laptop that can easily boil water, food and everything else.
Are you from Punjab or New Delhi?

 

LOL - Yes it can cook food, and i'm hardly feeling this winter's chill while playing games on this laptop.
I did read about those arctic pads which are much cheaper too, but their thermal conductivity is much less than these Fujipoly ones. Also i've requested dell to send someone to disassemble and assemble the laptop for me. I really don't wanna break anything. I do have accidental warranty but i'm guessing i won't get it fixed very soon if i break something, since this particular model isn't available in India.(This Config). So I'd rather not open it again and again. I just wanna get it fixed once and for all regardless of the cost. From all that I've gathered so far, the tripod screw design of the heatsink is already bad, i don't know what will happen after multiple disassembles.
Also, I've already ordered Conductonaut, just wanna make sure about the pads. I'll post my results after(IF) everything goes right.

 

The laptop is available at very high cost nearly ₹4Lacs.
Don't expect any miracles from Dell techs since they consider AW as a toy and will break them in a flash. Arctic pad is soft and can perform very well acc. to changing environments and even survive 2-3 times unlike Fujipoly which needs to replaced every time you do a repaste.
Standard paste can reduce temps by 10-15C and Liquid metal can decrease by another 15C.
Dell might void warranty if LM destroys your PC. So, stick with standard paste.
Accidental warranty covers anything you've broken.
I would suggest you get in contact with iunlock and get it done quickly and nicely. He will complete in a day or two.

 

I would have already given it to him, had i been in USA, but since i have no immediate plans to go there, I'm stuck here. Like you said I'm also very skeptical about Dell Techies who are most probably just diploma holders by opening Cheap laptops, you and me both know how it is in India. I won't let him touch my laptop if i find him incompetent. And ofcourse I'll be monitoring the situation closely. Thanks for the pointers though.

 

The newer alienware are relatively are easy to open than older generation which required disassembling every part just to repaste.
You will simply waste conductonaut because he/she will put too much and slap the heatsink that'll kill the mobo in seconds.
Take it slow and repaste it yourself. I was in your same situation after the tech broke the palm rest, wifi card and stripped some screws. Then I took apart the PC several times and now its okay and performing very well.

 

Thermal conductivity difference is NOT Important.
As @Vasudev said, the arctic pads are soft, durable and very good for bad conditions. I tried using fujipoly 11 w/mk pads on my laptop but they made absolutely no difference, besides being very brittle, flaky, NOT reusable when remounting, AND GETTING LESS THAN 1/4TH THE SIZE in amount that you would get with 145x145mm Arctic pad sheets. In this case, pocket size wins. You can get 145x145x1mm and 145x145x0.5mm Arctic pads and be set for anything. Although some pads I heard are >1.5mm.

 

Thanks so much for these insights man, I'll definitely try it myself now.

Okay, I'm going to get arctic pads too. Just in case. Because i have to have them shipped from US anyway. Might as well get everything.

 

Try traditional paste first. I personally use Cooler Master Maker Gel Nano from Amazon india.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...nd-apply-traditional-and-liquid-metal.806840/

 

Hi there. I am on the fence on buying a AW R4 17 and have been reading up alot. There are indications of Dell having solved these issues lately. Will a complete repaste still be very beneficial, or more marginal now in 2018? I'd not use LM either way, so what do you fellas think?

Also, will I not break my warranty by doing this? I'd rather not throw 3350$ down the drain by messing up.