[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

Just jump off that fence and wait for next one

 

Tough one... when can we expect a possible R5? Are there any rumors?

 

Gentlemen and potential ladies,

I am waiting for my refurbished monster to be delivered tomorrow (7820hk with 1080gtx). I have bought arctic thermal pads and thermal paste (kryonaught) and waiting them from amazon. As I have been reading several posts on here and reddit etc., I have a few questions which I would appreciate your input on;

1) Is iunlock's original thermal pads thickness still applicable for my configuration (7820k with 1080gtx)? I am guessing I will have to see how the heatsink fits currently and how the temps are. How easy is to identify gaps between the heatsink and the pads? I am not aware on how to perform the so called "dry runs", so how is it best for a novice to identify if the heatsink is sitting well on the pads?

2) I have read that the way you screw the heatsink back into the motherboard may actually make a difference on how good it fits. Some people have commented on screwing the opposite way round (going from 7 to 1). Also does it make a difference if you screw all screws lightly and then do them again as hard as possible, just to get a more even fit instead of going as hard as possible per each one from start? I have also read that compressing the arctic pads before you refit the heatsink could potentially help with a better fit. is that true?

3) Although I have disassembled my dell xps l702x several times, the alienware 17 r4 looks like it has more cables and things that can go wrong, especially in the second phase where you undo the motherboard part. I have read that it is possible to take out the heatsink from the motherboard only just by doing the fan cables/ stickers instead of taking out the whole motherboard and then the heatsink? Is that true? If so, it would save a lot of time and give less margin for error.

Thank you in advance. Looking forward to your replies.

George

 

Iunlock's guide is general case.
I used the original package to check pressure on pads by pressing heatsink onto the package.
I don't recommend removing only the heatsink because it can break so remove everything just to be safe.

 

I don't think dell has changed the design. Neither are they selling an updated version so to say. It's the same model as last year. With the same problems. If dell had fixed it, this entire post would be useless.
Also, if you have read enough, you might have concluded, nothing but LM will work. I'm still waiting for parts to arrive, but only LM will make this 3500$ worthwhile. CHEERS.

 

What do you mean by "break"? What will break exactly? I mean you are still taking it out from the motherboard on its own, so what is the difference if you just take it out straight away, while the motherboard is attached? Sorry if I am sounding stupid, just trying to understand so I don't do anything awful

 

The board is very fragile and may bend/break if it isn't pulled out correctly.

 

So unless I'm gonna repaste it, there's no use buying it at all then? As I said, I'm not overly keen on picking a new 3000+$ machine apart. I'm fairly good at picking things apart, but I'm not located in the US, so all suggestions on different brands for paste and pads are two steps extra for me.

Also, you say LM is the only thing that works good? I thought I read that even high quality standard thermal grease could make a huge difference?

Again - I guess all warranty is out the window when doing this procedure?

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/...dium=hot&utm_source=reddit&utm_name=Alienware

 

Not really saying anything at all, but thanks.

I'd buy a Clevo/Sager in a heartbeat if they weren't so darn loud.

On a side note, I actually called the local Dell technical support and asked about heating problems. Said I read alot about and told the guy right up not to sugarcoat it. He told me that they definitely have had problem with heat, but that they had taken steps to ensure that machines that are assembled now should not have this problem, and if they do it's covered by the warranty.

I realise LM will be way better if applied right, but this makes me somewhat more prone to actually buy a R4.

 

I got my system back in June/July and immediately repadded with FujiPoly and pasted with some Conductonaut. I wanted to be sure my system was good to go for my deployment. Everything was running great until just the other day. While playing the division I noticed the system would throttle and my FPS would dip way down then come back up. I also noticed what appeared to be some green and red artifacts towards the top of the screen. Never seen artifacts like it before. They looked almost like clouds. They’d appear and disappear very quickly. I turned on MSI AB and noticed my temps were higher than normal. I would typically see higher 70s and occasionally lower 80s, but now I’m seeing mid to upper 80s and an occasional lower 90s.

I opened up my system and noticed it was a little dirty so I did a quick blow out. This didn’t help it out too much, but just out of curiosity I changed the settings in game from DX12 to DX11 and I didn’t notice any artifacts. Although my temps are still running higher than usual. I’m wondering if it’s an issue with the new update and DX12. I’ll have to take it into work and use the compressed air to get it better, but I don’t think my system is that clogged up. It’s looking like I’ll need to get some more paste.

This isn’t the first time I’ve repasted a system and it’s not the first time I’ve used LM either. I’m a bit disappointed that my paste job didn’t last as long as most others. I’ll give Conductonaut the benefit of the doubt and say that my paste job might not have been perfect (although the system was running beautifully for 6 months or so). I’m thinking about giving it another shot and probably will get new pads as well. Is there a cheaper alternative to FujiPoly that won’t break the bank? Are Artic pads any good?

 

But hey! I just saw that HIDevolution can sell me a repasted R4. Are there any drawbacks of ordering from them then?

 

I suppose they have done their QA correctly and will not send a lemon.

 

Sounds like a good solution? They have a option for repasting and new quality pads. Fair pricing too.

 

Tag @Donald@HIDevolution to get a small discount as well.
I hope you can enjoy gaming like you intended @Muyfa666

 

What do you mean by "tag"?

 

Using @ followed by a name.

 

So hi @Donald@HIDevolution. Can I pretty please have small discount?

That how it works? ;-)

 

Did you add it to cart?

 

Yes, I did, but removed it again. I need to know if I can have it with a localized keyboard.

 

Swedish keyboard?
You have opted for Traditional paste/LM repaste with good thermal pads, correct?

 

Swedish - yes. I opted for best paste/pads option.

 

From the looks of it, keyboard seems English only but I think they'll have Swedish/English keyboards.
Did you get a price quote?

 

Yes, I have a price quote on the config with english keyboard.

 

So no native keyboard?

 

I have sent an email to the support asking about localized keyboard.

EDIT: It seems I can find a swedish keyboard on eBay fairly easy. Is it just so simple that I can change it?

 

Its better to ask them unless you like full disassembly of the laptop to replace the keyboard.

 

Right. Let's hope for an answer.

 

No localized keyboard. I guess I’m not meant to have a R4. :-(

 

Look for Clevo's then. They will destroy AWs in a flash.

 

I heard they are crazy loud thou. That won't fly with the wife...

 

You can control fans using Clevo control center for silent operation. Most people using Clevo use max rpm fans all the time.

 

How do you mean? Won't it go too hot with silent fans? I was under the impression that it needs high fan RPM to cool properly.

 

It is best to email me. See my signature below.

 

Thanks Donald. I sent you and email, for what it's worth.

 

Hi ! On my new aw17 7820HK + 1080 i have a CCI gen 3. Is it a good Heatsink?
I have high temp but not temps difference on cores (3 degres Max).
Heatsink problem or pads problem ?
(Repast with Kryonnaut yesterday - 93c on PUBG in 4k ultra)

 

As chance would have it, today I found a Acer Predator 17 X for a really good price at a clearance sale.

i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, GTX 1080, 4K UHD screen @ 60Hz with G-sync.

2235$ and a standard non-repasted localized AW would have set me back 3380$. That have to be a good deal, right?

 

4K UHD (3840x2160) screen @ 60Hz - 25ms ... Ok, but slow.

 

You're right. Even thou I really like it, it's not possibly to enjoy 60fps G-sync after having tried 120. Back it goes. Too bad.

 

Asking for some advice from people who have been through the repaste process.
I bought a 13r3 (7700HQ) from Dell refurbished. My 20 minute OCCT test average temp 58-83C. Max temps were 67-99. Obviously this needs a repaste and heatsink balance. I was ready to try it myself as I'm already at my spending limit and can't spend money to have one of the experts do it.
So after researching and buying materials (kryonaut, .5mm pads, and a decent tool set) I decided to give it a shot. I figured I could at least get the temps down and possibly even them out some.
Everything went smoothly (I even got wifi unhooked without breaking it) only to reveal that some Neanderthal butchered 3 of the heatsink screws before I ever got the machine. They weren't terrible, but stripped enough that none of my bits were the perfect fit. At that point I was fed up and didnt want to make things worse so I decided to cut my losses and reassemble everything without even getting to remove the heatsink. Perhaps to return it to Dell.

Now I'm wondering:
1. If I return it to Dell Outlet, will they accuse me of damaging the screws or will they not even open it up to check it?
2. Is it worth attempting the rubber band trick on the stripped screws and order new ones (what size)?
3. Will I, as a first timer, be able to make a big enough change in the temps listed above to even bother with this?

I'm leaning toward returning it, but right now I can't get as good of a deal on another one. Then there's also Dell's incredibly slow refund process. (8-10 days....seriously, its an electronic transaction!)

So I'm soliciting opinions. Run and hide from this thing or work through it?

 

Hey it's still worth it if your confident doing it but unless you overclock it's not really needed these days unless you get unlucky

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Yeah temps have gone up since latest update, the game is unoptimised but the CPU gets an extra kicking now from the added load of recording replays...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

I can't remember for sure with the R3 but I think the plate behind the mother board is secured with the same screws the heatsink uses so I'd remove the stripped ones (rubber band works nice) then do the repaste and swap them over with the non-stripped ones from the back plate for a nice secure heatsink reassembly.

REALLY IMPORTANT THOUGH: Fully disassemble and remove the mobo from the unit before attempting to remove the stripped screws since you will need to put quite a bit of pressure from behind and you don't want to crack the board, plus the angle is better with just the board in your hands on edge

Take your time and good luck!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

I decided to order a R4 17 from my local Dell. Good thing I waited thou, as they just kicked off a 12% off coupon today. Ended up at 3245$ including a Vindicator 2.0 17 backpack.

I also ordered a Xbox One V2 controller and a Logitech G903 + Logitech G PowerPlay.

 

Nice one, welcome to the family!

I have the backpack btw, it's really awesome you won't be disappointed!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Thanks! Yea, I can barely wait. I have decent gaming laptop today, but the GTX 1080 and the 1440p screen will be so awesome.

 

I actually think I'm starting to change my mind...

Maybe I should wait for the gen8 refresh. Seem to be a big deal for gamers. Hmm?

 

Do any of you put any kind of thermal paste between the pads and their contact surface? or just stick the pads straight on a cleaned surface?

Anyone know what the best way to make sure about what thickness the pads should be in the different places? i see recommended 0.5, 1. and 1,5 mm pads for different places, but if my heatsink got dropped or is uneven or something, and is off by 0.5 mm compared to guide in som places, what is best way to confirm what thickness pads i should use?

Thanks you so much for an awesome repaste guide. Never did a repaste before in my life, but this guide and others make it seem very straight forward.

My 17 r4 is on its way And trying to finish up my shopping list for paste and pads.

Cheers,

 

I'm in "waiting new AW laptops" also ordered and returned...

 

Conductonaut costs around 15 USD for 1g which i emagine is enough for the pch, gpu and cpu, but high quality thermal pads (fujipoly/alphacool 11W/mK or higher) will end up around 60 USD.

Anyone know if the thermal pads make a big enough difference to justify the 4x price tag compared to the paste?

And, anyone have experience with stacking thermal pads, like using a 1mm plus a 0.5mm together instead of getting 1.5mm?