*OFFICIAL* Alienware 17 R5 Owner's Lounge

what pads did you use? I knwo a lot here promote fujipoly but imo those are too hard and indeed a tad dry. I always try to pick pads that are similar to what is used on desktop GPU VRM's. Those are rated for 110c and higher and they often do reach that temperature.

 

Try arctic.

 

I have those. But left m in the netherlands. Those are like 5 times the price in asia....

Should make a webshop for it for asian customers.

 

I paid 10 times the price for arctic 100x100mm sheet.

 

Thats nuts. In NL i could get those for 10 euro incl shipping.

 

That's the real price in USA.

 

Alphacool 11W/mK

 

Let the poor guy try his mods, please. Jeez.
Why do you guys enjoy attacking people who try to think different?
Steve Jobs thought different and look what happened to his company. I don't care how much you hate Apple, it's still a success story.

@tijgert thought different and now everyone is doing foam dams for liquid metal paste. But he was considered to be a fool at first until the guy with most known reputations noticed his work, suddenly then everyone else decided to shut the hell up.

So does someone want to help him with his soldering copper blocks question? @Mr. Fox @jaybee83 I don't remember who the metalworkers are on this forum but there are a few of you....
Even though he's using BGA, he still deserves some help, rather than scorn. Have a little honor....

 

thought i would just weigh in.. this video from mr.fox really helped me and inspired me to solder copper on to heatsink for a while.

i don't know if this would help you, but i thougt i would just drop it and see if it helps you a little further.. i'm one of the crazy ones still waiting for the watercooling heatsink to come available for the 1080 model... would buy it in a heartbeat...

@AmourAngels

 

Thanks I watched this video before (I have a habit of doing some search before asking) but

• Mr. Fox did copper-copper soldering, mine is copper-<????> (probably kind of aluminum alloy)
• The solder paste he used is Sn42Bi58 which has significantly lower temp (138C) than mine Sn63Pb37 (183C) BUT it has extremely low thermal conductivity (only 19 W/mK) compare to mine (50 W/mK), according to http://www.indium.com/thermal-management/thermal-k-list/

So IMHO, using such low thermal conductivity like Sn42Bi58 is not worth a try. It MAY suitable for works like his (solder copper into the heatsink's CPU/GPU surface) because of the high heat sucker those areas have, but in my situation there is no direct heat pipe in areas which I want to modify.

I also consider melting point and conclude that Sn63Pb37 is the most suitable. See more at https://www.electronics-cooling.com/2006/08/thermal-conductivity-of-solders/#

Anyway it seems none of you did such experiment so I will just trial-and-error then.

 

Damn those pads look pretty good. Too bad they are almost 60 usd for just 1 sheet in japan.

 

AW heatsinks are fully made out of copper.

What you could try is to put LM on the "Pads" and use a small copper shim and solder it where the pads normally would fit. if you have the necessary hardware, with spot welding you could weld the shim to the heatsink. what you could also use is K-5Pro. it's a thermal paste but more viscous, meant to be used on the finfet/mosfet/vrm etc. i've been using it for more than a half year, and overclocking my cpu to 4.5 ghz won't even break 80C @90watts heat.

My gpu also stays relatively cool by the k-5Pro. it Vrel's but that's because i'm running my gpu oc'ed i think you can achieve the same results.

also what you could try is lapping the heatsink, and then apply Mr.Fox method. but it's just a suggestion.

 

What do you mean "full made out of copper? The parts of the heatsink which touch chips are not copper I pretty sure.

 

it is copper, i'm pretty sure. Else it would've corroded and eat up my CPU DIE already. When you combine LM with anything other than copper (for example Aluminium) you'll get this



If you put LM on a copper heatsink, instead of corroding it will oxidize creating a layer of LM. While removing the Gallium from the Heatspreader, the result will be a grayish layer where your LM was applied when you clean up your heatsink.



it's like 90% copper 5% gallium and so on... we never will now the exact mix of metals within the heatsink. for that i think you have to get that information from the factories where they are produced. most of the times information like that is not free, and usually there have been alot of research with different metals to test the heat transfer. information like that most of the times also is not destined for the outside world, but more for a laboratory where they test /create composite materials.

 

Not all is copper. Only where it is marked with blue. Cast Aluminium where the pads is put on.


Edit. What is Cast Aluminium?

 

i know, but you forgot to quote this part "it's like 90% copper 5% gallium and so on..."

He was also talking about the part that makes contact with the cpu (hence why i reacted with two pictures of the part that makes contact with the cpu)

the way he asked his question can maybe cause confusion. in #963 he talks about the part that makes contact with the die. and that's where my comment comes from that the heatsink(pipes) are fully made out of copper.

 

@AmourAngels talked about where the pads is put.

Regarding 90% copper 5% gallium and so on... Some of the Liquid metal will suck into the top of Copper layer. But can be removed with sanding or use of 5% HCL(Acid). But the best is let some of the Liquid metal stay on the Copper. Aka next time you put on LM will less of the gallium escape into the copper layer. Only sand the copper cold plate for flat/even finish.

 

i know, that's what i tried to explain to @AmourAngels

i've never removed the LM layer, in practice it can fill the gaps and imperfections of the heatsink. but that can very from heatsink to heatsink.

 

I did talk about where I intend to copper-pad in previous posts so maybe you don't read it. "chips" i meant those which are covered by pads.
Idea, short form: All gaps between those "chips" and the heatsink which are > .5mm will be copper-padded, using solder paste Sn63Pb37. Then the only pad should be use is .5mm.
I am currently waiting till the end of this month (the time when a local shop in my town gives great deal for its 5th anniversary)

I also watch a video on how to solder aluminum, and it seems not too hard. I will just clean away all the oxide then quickly apply solder paste and put the copper pad over, then heating it until it's done.
Best situation is the pad will stick well, worst is I have to buy a new heatsink =]]
I accept the risk, because I want to fix this **** once again and for all. Also it's good to experiment new things.

 

I wouldn't gamble on use of only .5mm thermal pads. The TRIPOD is a huge mess. You need some more fits headroom. Aka solder copper-pad and then use quality squishy 1.0mm pads. No flex if you go for all in with .5mm thermal pads on this AW HS mess.

 

I'm becoming more convinced that this i9 machine is a mixture of:

1). Silicon lottery, esp. for voltages,
2). Heatsink lottery. (Seems like bad design & QA again),

If you get lucky with the first two, and you can repaste pretty well with runny. conductive metal, you might be happy.
I'll stick with my respectable i7 temps, as that runs all I need in 4K after a ton of work, as I use real-world performance, not bench-march masturbations. (No offence to you people benchmarking who enjoy that stuff).

 

Hello, is anyone else having trouble installing the oc controls in their 17r5? mine is sayin setup failed..

 

Just got this ordered as well. Can I add an extra ssd/pci or SATA?
Does anyone know if I can turn off gsync? Or will it automatically turn off with Optimus? I got the 1070, i7 with 99w battery if anyone has an idea of battery life and recommendations

 

I don't think u can turn off gysnc because from my understanding the gpu goes direct to the screen (someone can explain it better)

 

You can disable gsync in the nvidia driver settings

 

But it still makes the gpu power the screen right(as opposed to integrated Intel graphics)?
It just turns off G-sync?

 

The Intel on-chip GPU is not connected to the display as I understand it because the only way for G-Sync to work is by direct connection of the display to the NVidia GPU.

 

So, I will be joining this Lounge since, out of Dell's gesture of goodwill, they are willing to replace my 1 year old, faulty 17 R4 with a brand new 17 R5 for free.

Wasn't doing much research on the R5, but judging by the reviews and stuff, I guess its safe to say that... Dell is still using the bad toothpaste for the CPU and GPU dies? D:

And, how's the clocks on the new 17 R5?

 

So would I be using Optimus at that point? Or would it just turn off G-Sync and run off integrated graphics?

 

How has the battery life been? I ended up going with the 120hz gysnc which I’m not even sure I can turn off QHD model. Do you think I should change it out for the 4K. I’m rethinking it.

 

How is the screen and battery life on yours?

 

Never used it away from desk... I had the i9 and gtx 1080 and 4K panel - I suspect battery would not last very long with CPU at 45W, GPU at 180W and the rest of the machine...

The keyboard is not as good as mechanical keyboards but never the less it's very good for a laptop.

 

Hello everyone, I have an m17x r3 and am looking at upgrading to the new r5 but I have a question in regards to the display. I do not do a whole lot of gaming, my main use is programming, using Mathcad, and editing photos and videos. I also travel for work so that is why I'm looking at a laptop vs a desktop. The weight does not bother me as I'm used to hauling the m17x r3 through the airports (I know the r5 is bigger, but that doesn't bother me). My question is if g-sync is worth it if I'm not doing heavy duty gaming. I've read numerous articles about g-sync technology, but it seems like all they talk about is the advantages for gaming and not anything else. Would it help me as an engineer? Does it help if I'm watching and editing 4k videos? I'm looking at the 4k display and was curious if I go for the non g-sync model does Alienware still allow you to switch to the Intel graphics to get a little better battery life? Or is it best just to get the g-sync monitor?

I was also considering the new Dell XPS 9570, but I've been using only alienware laptops for the last 7 years and I don't know if I could get used to the chiclet keyboard. Also, I know people have had some issues with the new Alienware laptops, but I've never had an issue with any Alienware laptops in the past so I'm willing to stick with them until that changes.

Thank you for any advice and recommendations you can provide on the g-sync vs non g-sync displays, and also if you think the Dell XPS would be worth giving a try for an engineer. Thanks again.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

If you have gsync panel you won't be able to use the Intel graphics. 3 hours would be about the longest it would last before you had to charge it but I would have to have someone confirm it. I can't think of a reason to have gsync if you don't game a lot on it.

 

The XPS does not come in 17" but only 15" or 13". I have the XPS 15 4K touch panel and it's an amazing laptop, the best LAPTOP in the world IMO (ie throw in your bag, work on the move, wonderful screen). I also had the Alienware 17 and that's not for carrying around, its PSU alone weighs more than the XPS 15 ! It is huge, dense and heavy, very noisy with the fans on when gaming. The number one consideration should be IMO do you feel like lugging the AW 17 R5 and secondly is the 2-3 hour battery OK for you ?

 

New review (June 6, 2018 at 12:00 PM)... Alienware 17 R5 Review:Tomshardware.com

When it came to video editing, it took the Alienware 9 minutes and 10 seconds to transcode a 4K video to 1080p on our Handbrake test. That’s speedier than average (10:04) but and lags behind the Aorus (8:15) and Titan (7:41). Or up to 22% lower Cpu Performance.

Bottom Line
The Alienware 17 R5 is a massive, beautiful machine that’s great at playing games with a lovely display, powerful audio and, of course, an Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080.

But, if you pay for the top-level configuration like our review unit, you expect to get that Core i9 performance. And our model offered lesser benchmark scores than competitors with the same processor on some benchmarks. Frankly, that’s the one big thing keeping this rig from getting a better score and an editors’ choice award.

If you want that CPU power, go for the $3,899 Aorus X9. You’ll have to drop down to a 1080p display. It runs at 144Hz and supports G-Sync. But the display is dimmer than I’d like, especially after I’ve laid my eyes on the Alienware’s panel.

But the Alienware 17 R5 is top-notch when it comes to literally everything else, and if you can deal with the lesser processor performance, it will serve you very well.

 

Thank you for your comment and for confirming the roughly 3 hour battery time with the g-sync, I've read a couple other comments about battery life and they all mention about 3 hours for the r5.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

Thank you for replying to my post. Besides the weight of the Alienware 17, are there any other points where you would prefer the Alienware over the XPS? I know the graphics card is much better in the Alienware, but I really like the 4K display of the XPS. I was actually all ready to purchase the Alienware 17 r5 a few weeks back but then I saw the XPS was released with the i9 also and that is when I started to debate between the two.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

Typically when people choose laptops they consider screen size and overall bulk first.
​

One is a slick, thin, small, inaudible, 15" laptop with "infinity" screen (no bezel) making it appear even smaller than comparative other 15" laptops.

The other is a thick, large, very loud, 17" laptop with generous bezels around the panel making it wider and deeper than comparative other 17" laptops, and much heavier too. It does weigh a ton.

Both come with a 4K screen except the XPS has a glossy touch panel which once you get used to you look at other laptops and laugh. The AW has a matte non-touch screen (non touch so does not need the gloss I guess) and at 17" it would be weird to make it touch sensitive. Both panels are exceptional for brightness and colours.

Random thoughts:

The "older" XPS has a GTX 1050 and an i7-7700HQ and is inaudible. The AW17 has an i9-8950HK but also comes with i7-8750H and you save £400 if you choose to go with the i7 rather than with the i9. It's a lot of cash for I am not sure what level of performance difference.

There is the new XPS 15" which comes with the i9-8950HK or i7-8750H and GTX 1050 Ti - it seems the "old" XPS 15 ( I bought it 6 months ago) is already obsolete! I am not even though half the one year warranty and now the new XPS is fitted with the 1050 Ti - damn.

If you want an easy to carry, mac-buster quality and performance then the XPS 15 must be your choice.

If you want the larger display and are happy to sacrifice the portability then the AW 17 could also be your choice, the AW17 needs a desk.

No matter what you do make sure you use one of these promotions Dell have on their website, 15% off the basket price.

 

You should look at GT73VR which has switchable graphics and is better for travel since you can switch to intel hd gfx for longer battery runtimes.

 

More than 2 hours but I do not remember. I kept it on battery only once so I am not sure. And I returned my machine so impossible to try now.

By the way I received my refund today.

I can now share with you what I found when I opened my laptop. I just remind you this is the application that the Dell 3rd party tech did with my (wasted) thermal grizzly conductonaut. I would not expect much temp drop with this kind of application anyway. It was only about 2-3 C drop. As some people have said already if you do not do it yourself .. Maybe the next one is going to be my job..(I will first check what the new BIOS actually does in terms of CPU temps)

https://imgur.com/a/3dXHsaQ

By the way do you remove the bios battery when you do the re-paste?

 

Regarding the intel graphics. If you switch off the g-sync under nvidia control panel cant you use the Intel graphics? Or if you disable the GTX1080 in device manager? I did not have time to try that to be honest. It sounds very strange to be there but cant be used...

 

Did you reorder?
Did they say anything about you leaving a different paste on there?
I wonder if they actually open or test a machine when it's returned.
As for the disabled gysnc. It still runs off gpu just not using gysnc. I don't think it switches to onboard graphics because it doesn't have optimus

 

hehehe thats my photo !!!! lol alienware 15 r1 heatsink.
i made one more "mod" removing the plastic cover of the reinforcement of the keyboard to become it as a big metal plate and used thermal pads above the entire motherboard to make contact to the metal plate. lol like 5°C difference

 

I always thought I saw that picture somewhere but forgot.

 

The xps15 is a very nice machine for sure but inaudible? Also at stock throttles quite a bit but cannot be overcome with better paste, just enough heatsink fins to cool the machine.

Just a different machine for a different purpose.

 

The re-paste was done officially from Dell tech under warranty and as it was done from Dell it is under warranty. Similarly to heatsink replacement. It was as a way of trying to fix the CPU high temps (over 100C). Of course you can see the bad quality of application. And I had to pay for the thermal paste too (wasted). But this shows they know stock thermal paste is crap. But still not doing anything about it even on such high end machines. I do not know if they check/test the machine after return. They probably do for parts or whatever.

I did not reorder yet for some reasons. I will do probably later because I liked it as a whole (other than CPU temps/throttle under farcry 5) and I now have a 15% discount code too.

By the way, I have not seen anyone posting any differences between previous and curret bios version (supposed to address CPU performance and thermal behaviour). Only capt.ko said about VID on his previous and current machine. It maybe the bios that changed that (1.15V to 1.13V) and according to what he posted it has improved temps (even though re-paste is still needed). Undervolt is also something I did not try on i9 8950HK and would like to see a post how to do that. Intel xtreme utility has many options and I am not sure which one it is. Throttlestop guide for i9 would also be appreciated.

 

You still did not understand what the CPU Vid is and that it is not Bios based ...

After LM Repaste i can not complain anything about this machine.

CPU Full Load occt:
4ghz - 58° Max, 52 AVG
4.5ghz - 72 Max, 63 AVG
4.7ghz - 85 Max, 73 AVG

Gaming
4ghz - 60 CPU, 57 GPU
4.7ghz- 80 CPU, 63 gpu

 

Ok VID is CPU based then and silicone lottery as you call it. The new BIOS may have an effect on temps though because this is what Dell states in the changelog on official page.

To be honest, I tried to apply the LM to try temps before sending the machine back for refund (refund was already agreed) and the machine did not power again. Lucky I sent it back. I have no idea what happened. LM was applied really well. I will use anti-static gloves next time.

 

Can we use these new graphite pads instead of thermal grease? Has anyone done it? As the pads are very thin (0.1mm) does it mean that the heatsink machining has to be perfect else it will leave gaps?