*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Guys, a new driver has been released for the Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework. It’s a power and thermal management solution that is used to resolve fan noise, overheating, and performance-related issues of the system. So if anything, it’s worth updating to it to see if it improves temperatures and fan noise for the Area-51M, and the i9 9900K processor’s heat issues.

https://www.dell.com/support/home/u...wt64a&productcode=alienware-17-area51m-laptop

 

the oled screen in the m15 is also from Samsung, but those are not TVs .

This is a quote from the website:

"Samsung sees QD-OLED as a potential competitor to LG’s OLED technology, according to Korean media. The company tried to commercialize RGB OLED TVs in 2012-2013 but had to abandon the project due to low production yields. Plan B involved launching quantum dot enhanced LCD TVs but the world’s leading TV maker continues to lose ground in the premium TV segment to manufacturers of OLED TVs. Samsung is also developing TVs based on microLED display technology."

 

Those are their tablet panels, as far as I know they havent produced Oled TV's in recent times

 

Ah yes max brightness would definitely do that as we see on the display model phones at the stores ...

Very nice. Auto-hide is also a good practice for sure. I keep the task bar minimal with a black theme so I've kept my task bar static...

Yes Samsung's technology is RGB OLED vs LG's White OLED, but the main point here is that they are both prone to screen burn in if proper measures aren't taken into practice.

I didn't think the whole TV discussion would get so technical lol.

 

lol i would've removed intel DPTF in the first place from my laptop. It's a throttle mechanism designed for Dell to throttle the hell out of their ultrabooks. Ignore and delete it (if you want stable performance) else you'll have to battle the Dell algorithms that are baked in the EC and Bios and you won't get past them.

 

"Yes Samsung's technology is RGB OLED vs LG's White OLED, but the main point here is that they are both prone to screen burn in if proper measures aren't taken into practice. "

"Samsung sees QD-OLED as a potential competitor to LG’s OLED technology, according to Korean media. The company tried to commercialize RGB OLED TVs in 2012-2013 but had to abandon the project due to low production yields."

Samsung RGB OLED does not exist. They use LCD. They could not get enough yields so they switched to LCD. LG is the biggest OLED tv producer after that comes sharp and then Philips. Samsung can only produce OLED to small formfactors (like tablets or smartphones, or 15 inch laptops)

https://www.displaysupplychain.com/blog/will-samsung-return-to-oled-tv

 

Then bad Alienware.
https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comm...rs_ceo_has_confirmed/?st=JV28E3KF&sh=3bbd1041

 

Ah right, interesting. I found these useful notes below for anyone who is interested in removing Intel DPTF altogether.

—

1. Switch off wifi / lan - YOU DO NOT WANT TO BE CONNECTED TO INTERNET otherwise windows will re-install software while you complete other steps.


2. Go to Control Panel - Add/Remove Programs. :

UNINSTALL "Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework from Device Manager"

!!DO NOT RESTART LAPTOP!!


3. Now we need to stop windows from automatically installing it again.


GOTO "C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository"


Find Folder "esif_manager.inf_amd64_a75284e9a5c086ed"

Open folder properties -> Security Tab -> Click the Advanced Button.

In the Advanced Security Window DISABLE INHERITANCE and Remove Access Permissions BUT Add yourself as having access (in case you want to undo these changes)

Apply

Go Into The Folder and delete everything in the folder.


Find Folder "dptf_acpi.inf_amd64_9ae0ce96bc411cd1"

Open folder properties -> Security Tab -> Click the Advanced Button.

In the Advanced Security Window DISABLE INHERITANCE and Remove Access Permissions BUT Add yourself as having access (in case you want to undo these changes)

Apply
Go Into The Folder and delete evenring in the folder.


Find Folder "dptf_cpu.inf_amd64_e1adf0f50a965f0c"

Open folder properties -> Security Tab -> Click the Advanced Button.

In the Advanced Security Window DISABLE INHERITANCE and Remove Access Permissions BUT Add yourself as having access (in case you want to undo these changes)

Apply

Go Into The Folder and delete evenring in the folder.



4. Switch your wifi/lan back on.


5. Restart Laptop

You should find now that intel thermal framework cannot re-install. You will see in "Windows Update" control panel that it reports that it cannot install it.


ALSO IMPORTANT: You will need to use something like throttlestop to undervolt and keep cpu a little cooler. Without Intel Thermal Framework to trigger throttling if you put cpu under constant stress (video encoding) it will go above 90 degrees easily and when it hits 100 laptop will shutdown.

 

I don't think all forum members use Sammy drives but majority of them opt for Samsung almost 80-85% rest use non Samsung drives including ADATA,Crucial/Micron,Toshiba,OCZ,Intel,WD, Sandisk etc...
I agree with your statement some drives had issues but it is isolated to few %age.
I don't think any OC'ing veterans own new AW laptops anymore since they are tired of "you know what tactics employed by Dell" and are very happy with enthusiast class desktop and a laptop <800$ that serves the purpose of portability.

 

If you see DPTF settings explicitly listed in BIOS under Advanced > CPU config section only then DPTF is working otherwise it is simply a container to serve the purpose for certification that AW will not harm End users skin whilst operating. It doesn't have or serve any purpose like XPS or Inspiron lineup where DPTF can be configured for Cool n Quiet as well as Max performance mode operations.
You can install minimalistic or generic driver for DPTF from Station-drivers which installs only driver and works only if BIOS has DPTF support otherwise it won't work.

 

Just a quick basic information of the AU Optronics panel

 

Guys with white Area 51m's out there. Have you noticed any discoloration on the wrist rest area so far? I can see a very slight pale mark on either side of the track pad where my wrists rest while typing. It's so subtle that my camera can barely catch it but I can clearly see it with my naked eye. Any white wrist rests out there? The ones that are available for Macbooks in black color I believe on Amazon.

Some pictures:

 

Again, we're talking about burn in potential which both of them have. It's true that Samsung's quantum dot technology differs from LG's OLED, but they are both different technologies due to how they work. The point here is burn in... not naming scheme. Burn in can be found on Samsung (marketed as AMOLED or OLED) screens. The same can be found one some Samsung TV's that are qled that is often grouped into the OLED category and marketing is responsible for that. So in the general scope of things we're talking about potential screen burn here... not technicalities. Heck, do you remember plasma tv's? Even they are prone to burn in...

I didn't say that all forum members use sammy drives. As for any oc'ing veterans owning any newer AW laptops, that is completely irrelevant to the topic at hand, let alone this thread.

The main point here was to nip the FUD at the bud as to not spread any unnecessary disinformation. That's all.

You can use a clear vinyl skin to cover those areas. I usually wipe mine laptop down pretty often and from looking at it under my LED light I don't see any discoloration. I usually have it hooked up to an external monitor, keyboard and wireless mouse. Maybe about once a week I'll game directly on the laptop so I probably don't have as much contact in the area as you might... I'll keep an eye out though.

 

I'm with the white one. It's probably possible that few specific people's sweat can affect the paint or the color of this laptop. When I decided to go with the white, I put myself in a position where I will love the old yellowish color that we usually see on last decade keyboards

 

Haha I commend you for being logical lol... that gave me a good laugh. The white A51M is so clean looking it's worth every yellowish color phase change indeed ROFL....

Update:
I just had to lol... for you my friend.. couldn't help it.

 

I don't like my laptop dirty so I'll either be swapping the chassis with a black one or find a sticker that fits completely on the palm rest area.

 

Ok so here is my Amazon cart:

• Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram
• Rockit 89 Delid & Relid for 9th Gen CPU
  
• Copper IHS for 9th Gen
  
• Gelid Solutions GP-Extreme TP-GP01-B 1.0mm Thermal Pad x 2
  
• Gelid Solutions GP-Extreme TP-GP01-C 1.5mm Thermal Pad x 2
  
• Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3.35 oz. Tube

And from Rockitcool website: Copper IHS for 9th Gen

Am I missing something?

 

Drop the copper IHS. It's height is too much and might bend your heat sink and keep it from making good contact with the hot circuit components around the CPU socket. I have it lying in my drawer waiting for a desktop build because I gave up on the copper IHS for this machine. Also, you'll need some metal polish, some silicon sealant and some solder remover (quicksilver) available from Rockit Cool, unless you want to scrap the heck out of your dye with a razer.

 

Ha ha, that's very true

If you like a clean laptop, black is a much better choice anytime. Actually, I think pick white if you want your laptop to be retro in future, black if you want a unchangeable laptop

 

Yes indeed. I'm the same way... once I get some time I plan to cut my own clear vinyl for the keyboard area.

Looks great! You should be all set. Just be careful with the copper ihs. I have a custom one (machined in house) that took several adjustments to get a good contact so just make sure to check the contact before resealing it.

I've spent a ton of hours with extensive testing... is it worth it? mmmm not really.. .like what @S.K said...I would ditch the ihs .... the stock IHS will do just fine.

Also be careful with LM on the CPU... The contact between the cpu cold plate and IHS must be tested to ensure that it has even contact pressure, because the tinniest amount of LM that leaks down the side into the cpu socket is irreparable. The CPU side of the heat sink this to be slightly uneven, which makes traditional paste a better option.

I would honestly just use Kyronaut all around like I did...

Here's mine... it does look pretty though.

 

You shouldn't post that photo, it looks sexy and makes me want to ignore the good advice

Alright thanks guys for the advice! I would only buy the copper IHS if it was machined to perfection out of the box...

 

Now that makes me wanna delid my CPU.

 

I have the Rockit Cool 9th gen copper IHS which is quite tall as compared to the stock one. I plan on sanding it down to match the height of the stock IHS sometime during the coming month and replace the stock IHS followed by a kneaded eraser and a foam dam around it before putting LM on the entire thing. Before this I had an 8th Gen copper IHS on my CPU and because of lower height, it was just fine although I had to put a really thick layer of silicon sealant underneath the borders to seal it off properly and it took multiple iterations just to make sure that LM doesn't leak out.

 

Is there a foam you'd recommend for us new to LM? Doubt I'd give it a go but you never know.

 

But you said it, veterans here use Sammy drives on newer AW(Cassini models and above incl. A51M) w/o any issues.
I did find few cases at Samsung forum and most of them are usually locked or screenies are missing. Should have bookmarked it or saved as a screenie for ref.

 

Haha I figured that it would... almost thought twice about putting it up, but figured eh why not.

You'll be good to go with the rest on your list, less the copper ihs.

It does have its appeal eh?

Veterans as in the obvious active members in this forum who have replied to confirming that they have zero issues with their Sammy drives.

Yup that's true...which is why I'm reserving the RC 9th gen for the Desktop. As for the foam and all that stuff, using the right amount of LM is key. Closing off the surrounding area with all that stuff actually can have a negative effect in a lot of ways... once LM touches or leaks into a given area..in this case into the foam for example, it creates a bridge for more LM to follow as it acts as a path way. It's something I've tested way back with the earlier AW models and I purposely did not publish anything about it due to the risks involved. In theory it sounds pretty...trust me I know... and yes it would act as a "catch can," but again the most important thing is to measure the contact area first and to make sure that it's even with the right amount of pressure. Then comes the next part of making sure that the amount of LM is as close to perfect as possible for the given area. I've tested both LM and Kyronaut on the A51M and the results are pretty surprising in that Kyronaut works just as well with negligible difference in temps to warrant the risk of LM leakage. A proper Delid is much more beneficial for this system with using LM between the die and IHS. Due to the nature of thermal dissipation and the limits that the heat sink has, along with the fans cfm output, it can only cool so much... that threshold I've found to be already getting maxed even with the use of regular thermal paste.

As for working with the copper IHS, I agree it is very tricky to get it just right... I've spent countless hours working on reiterations, shaving down, remachining etc.. to get it just right. It's a pain lol. Save your stock IHS's haha... just use those.

 

Have never sealed IHS on any of my processors. And I have never seen Liquid metal leaving its place. If this is a problem, maybe re-think how much Liquid metal you really use. But yeah, I'm never throwing my notebooks around on the floor home or throw it directly into the cars bakseat


Btw. New one up in smoke.

Area 51m failed after 2 days Today
I had just fired up GoT and went to the kitchen, came back and everything was dead. Burning smell coming from left side vent. TWO DAYS!!!!!

 

yeah i know brother, but the fact that you say: "The Samsung OLED in the game room is one of the first OLED TV's that was released" means you fell for their marketing as it's just LCD. "Burn in can be found on Samsung (marketed as AMOLED or OLED) screens" AMOLED is AMOLED there is no OLED AMOLED or anything else. AMOLED is the display Samsung uses for their mobile phones while OLED is the display found in example the R13 or m15.

AMOLED is marketed as for example : Super AMOLED Plus or Dynamic AMOLED

But in the end it was clear already, so sorry for my nitpicking lol.

 

To be honest, I am VERY satisfied with my temps right now and don't have ANY problems either with the CPU or the GPU. I just want to do it to see how far I can push this system before it crashing on me! Plus, I solved this LM leaking through the foam barrier issue with coating the foam with a silicon sealant spray towards the outside which kind of "seals it off" and I put liquid electrical tape on both top and bottom of the foam barrier so it sticks to both the socket lid as well as the heat sink when it is compressed. It gets torn apart when taking the heat sink off the next time but foam is cheap and easy to replace.

 

I also never reseal my IHS ... only on some rare occasions where maybe using an aftermarket ihs that are cut to intel specs where it has to have the small gap from the sealant.

As for the left side of the vent? That's the CPU side... did he mean his left when facing the laptop? Or left when looking at it from the rear of the laptop? Because if it is the rear that's the GPU side.

I'm well aware of what AMOLED is as I'm just as much into phones as I am with computers. Look me up on xda. Again, I think you've missed where I had mentioned that the use of the word OLED was a general term in referencing something general with screen burn issues etc... It's like how we call bios, bios... it's not really technically a bios in case you didn't know, rather it's an emulated bios if you're running 64bit on uefi which allows you to run 32bit for older stuff.

As for falling for marketing hype? No. I know the technicalities of the tech that I purchase. I think what would be practical here is nit picking why we keep calling bios, bios.

At the end of the day, not that serious... oh and the nitpicking comment was geared toward the whole samsung drive topic.

Very nice and great to hear. There are a lot of clever ways to go about it for sure... and more power to experimenting. - I've been running a lot of controlled tests the past few days and I'm pretty pleased with the temps with my 8086K. A 6 core is such a great fit for this system. I have the 9900K in the other system and it gets pretty warm lol...but as expected. Still a lot more testing in the line up... I'm barely half way there with all the projects on hand.

 

Just wanna know if some can share.. with brand new tobii eye etc and ir cam present.. why does this area 51m has no win hello ?

Sent from my SM-A505F using Tapatalk

 

The Bios is as much "Bios" as Area 51m is a "Laptop"!

 

Don't tell that to UEFI.

 

Windows is vulnerable enough already. I think your device security is better off without it. Plus, nothing beats good old password to boot sequence.

 

Oh man I'm sorry that is some bad luck

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...m-owners-lounge.826831/page-879#post-10900895

I think @captn.ko still wait on your results.

This isn't about luck.... More like. Just a matter of time. As I said before. Have a spare computer. Old doesn't matter. A phone is not always the best for everyone.

 

Add me to the list that doesn't have a problem at all with Samsung drive. My unit has the 970 EVO Plus 1TB.

 

That's why i almost everytime mention bios with (UEFI) at the back cause it's not a bios anymore. I like to refer to things as they stand, not as what people think is easier to use. It can disorientate not tech savy people (especially when saying OLED is LED). The reason why i do that is because this machine is new, and there are alot of users that buy thinks because of the marketing. You bought is because you knew what it was and how to use it correctly, but not eveyone does.

saying that AMOLED is marketing term while it's a display technology is not the same as saying Bios is UEFI. UEFI is an sort successor to the BIOS cause it has the same functionality, but with more feature's (like handling drivers greater than two terabytes). BIOS is also almost not being used (produced) anymore due to UEFI as to AMOLED there are AMOLED and OLED displays which are two different displays which behave differently. Today you can buy OLED or AMOLED screens, as to with UEFI/BIOS you don't have a choice which one you're going to buy/use (except if you write the firmware yourself, and resolder the bios ROM chip yourself)

 

Just got mine from HIDevolution. The thermals are great. I can play this thing on my lap wearing shorts and not get burned.

 

Tell me how your knees feel after playing Sniper Elite 4 at ultra settings for half an hour. Also, the only intake vents are at the bottom with middle part of the honey comb intake "masked off" with dust filter so the real intake is only underneath both fans which will get blocked when you put it in your lap. So be careful.

 

BIOS is still a BIOS, in fact UEFI is just a security layer to keep bad actors out of the system, does it protect the user all the time? No.
There is no dual arch BIOS because they are hardware and software agnostic and are coded in Assembly ( Well, we use HLL to abstract things to make it easier to write some stuff and then convert to MLL/ALL).
Debugging the BIOS needs x86_64 or x86 drivers otherwise you won't get to know what and how something works or doesn't work!
So, 10 members have confirmed that 960/970 evo works fine on secnvme driver or Intel RAID drivers.

 

To me, this whole thing seems to be blown out of proportion and similar to Microsoft's partner support model. I feel that Samsung doesn't give a sh** so they don't care about any of these partnerships and just care about putting products in the market that work.

 

is it normal that at the start of the alienware command center it takes a few minutes before being available?

 

Yes perfectly normal. It takes a while with a white screen every now and then.

 

Are you sure. Im getting 5.2ghz on OC2

 

On every core ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I get 5 GHz stable across all cores, with -120mV undervolt on XTU without any throttle!! I only use AWCC to switch fan profiles, and that's it. It is not that great when it comes to controlling your CPU and GPU power. For GPU I use MSI Afterburner and I am really happy with my temps. 75 degrees max under load!

 

yeah sure…

what about posting results instead of claim something? ​

 

At least down from -140mv http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...m-owners-lounge.826831/page-903#post-10901590

Should mean a couple of degrees higher temp.

 

and still 75 degree max and why -120 when -140 was ,,stable,, already? XD