*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

Blue and red seems too high than normal values, blue color is so intense it burned my eyes. Did you return it? The display is calibrated for max brightness rather than usability.

 

I was only testing if this was happening with other units since @S.K had to remove his due to overheating the palm rest.

As for the Sound Blaster X G6, I'm not really needing it when using the USB method for Audeze Mobius already gives off good sound in 3D mode. Plus, for my constant traveling, it is not ideal to carry too much.

 

gotcha, can always let him know this exists: https://www.amazon.com/TROND-External-Adapter-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B07L56C28R

I got mine yesterday, slightly higher quality than Realtek 3246 audio codec.

 

Kryoanaut does not cure like AS5 or other older pastes, your temps will be best straight after a repaste.

Did you use thicker thermal pads than the stock ones? Usually that is the reason for higher temps. If its not the pads then your heatsink may not be perfectly flat, which Kryonaut does not like. In my experience you need consistent and good pressure on the heatsink for Kryonaut to work well and last a long time. IC Diamond and Gelid GC Extreme usually work better for uneven heatsinks.

 

I think Crucial is testing Samsung C Die or D Dies since B dies are in EOL. That 3200MHz is Single ranked memory from spec sheet and in fact uses Sammy D dies and priced really. I'll buy 3200MHz RAM or possibly 2667MHz using this new Samsung tech on my old AW since crucial lists it as compatible.
Nearly all RAM manufacturers/brands have switched to Sammy B Die since they can minimize test time because people started buying Ryzen and most RAM sticks are tested with XMP on intel only system which cause issues on Ryzen chips, so far B dies are stable and switching them to B dies means less testing time and more money for RAM sticks since they are B Dies.
Any RAM Chips with production date with mid/fall 2018 should have Samsung B Dies. Apacer,ADATA,Crucial 2667MHz standard and ballistix RAMs, Samsung OEMs RAM, SK Hynix, Corsair Vengeance, GSkill Ripjaws, Hyper X etc....
A51M is hardware limited to 2400MHz on 4 sticks and on dual sticks may run at 2667/2800/3200MHz XMP/JEDEC timings w/o issue.
Let's hope A51M gets much needed FW support 2667MHz or more and also hope Dell doesn't force you to buy A15m-v2 with 2667MHz or more RAM support using A51m-v1 board.

 

So here are my clocks for my RTX 2080. I find this to be the sweet spot. Going all the way up to 1000mV, I was able to maintain a stable 84 degrees with ~2030 MHz but that's a bit too hot for my liking. So I stepped it down to 937mV and it's running super stable at 1950 MHz (Running heaven at extreme settings). It's fast enough to crush ALL games and cool enough that I can keep running kryonaut without any issues. Will test it out for a few more days before deciding what to do next. (NOTE: These settings are by no means a definitive one-for-all for everyone as your chip can (and probably WILL) vary. This could be a rough estimate about where to start tweaking from etc. Don't blame me if you burn your card by going crazy lol).

 

Link to the spec sheet? I couldn't find it. Their website says they use Micron.

Also wouldn't DR be better than SR, maybe not when using all 4 slots for compatibility purposes but in general for laptop performance.

 

Recent advancements in tech suggests that SR vs DR isn't noticeable once you use Dual Channel or Quad channel memories and SR is cheaper while DR is solely for high density RAM, I hope 64GB or 128GB on single stick becomes a reality.
Internally they etch it with Micron Brand name instead of Sammy because people will complain saying I paid for Micron/Crucial DRAM ICs instead I got Samsung.
There no detailed spec sheet even at Samsung.


Crucial's website SODIMM memory

 

When can you share that BIOS with me.

 

@Prema is at it again? There goes my wallet flying at the screen...

 

Interesting, but as for as SR vs. DR
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-vengeance-lpx-16gb-ddr4-4600-memory,5344-2.html

Get ready for a big surprise! Our analysis of dual-rank DIMMs showed that Intel’s mainstream platforms work best with at least four ranks employed, and that getting there required either four single-rank or two dual-rank DIMMs. F1 2015 is known for being bottlenecked by both the CPU and RAM, so increasing the CPU clock to 4.80 GHz in today’s test allowed the four-rank advantage of two dual-rank DIMMs to be excessively pronounced. It gets worse for the single-rank pairs when I look at my notes and find that, at DDR4-3200, the minimums were 71.4, 77.5, 86.6, and 113.0 FPS, in that order, for the four sets shown.

I'd just rather have DR dimms, or could just buy 2 kits of the 32GB SR dual channel kit for the area 51m

 

Those look like good temps, what spec did you order?

 

I've a logitech g pro wireless with its settings saved onto the mouse itself. So, is it better if I don't install the logitech software to my new system? The DPI and the polling rate settings are already on the mouse itself.

I tried it on my M17xR3 just now and you're right, the touch pad settings have vanished. I had set the touch pad to be disabled whenever there was a external pointing device but with my new G Pro, both work at the same time and disabling option has been greyed out. This wasn't the case with my old Mionix Castor.

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Well, that's what a premium warranty is for. Can you share your voltage curve tuning page too?

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Ok Master, teach me. Please dont drop such a bomb without posting the ,,how to,,

 

Didn't think i could do it, but i beat my previous firestrike score. By a decent amount as well!

 

When I have time after work, I will send a message to logitech in hopes of getting this fixed. If the issue isn’t from Logitech’s end, then I have to ask this thread’s best pal, Frank, about getting support for the most commonly used gaming mice.

Edit: I primarily use the G502 because of its perfect size and weight. I alternatively use the G903 when I get tired of wires. (waiting on a G502 wireless or equivalent design)

 

That is not my bios nor my bench, but I suspect it's due to the flack from the PMT that they get off their behinds and address the problem.

 

I just received mine a few days ago.
How do I know please which batch is my PC? the old or the new?

Date of purchase: 04/17/19
Shipped: 04/19/19
Ordered directly from Dell France

 

The official response will be that you have received batch one, however, @S.K has done some extensive digging on his original and replacement GPU which shows differences in parts used. I think the only way you'd know for certain is to open up the laptop and compare your GPU to the pictures which @S.K posted earlier in the thread.

This is the post I was referring to: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...m-owners-lounge.826831/page-922#post-10902592

 

You can ask @Johnksss for Test BIOS just for benching since Dell might take a legal route against Prema so it won't be released to Public if you bribe Prema with Golden egg laying hen.

 

I might have used thinner pads instead of stock ones on same areas. On my gpu memory i've used 1.0 pads but looking closer i saw that 1.5 would be a better fit. But i was already out of stock so i've kept that way. Could be it? Im going to buy more 1.5 pads and do a repaste with Gelid GC extreme and do some tests...

 

I'm interested to know where you're getting this info from because apparently Area 51m does NOT support anything above 2400 MHz no matter how many sticks you're using in whichever slots.

1mm fits just fine on memory. 1.5mm will be too thick and will get crushed under pressure if it is a stiff pad. Try and use a pressure paper to see if what you're using is making good contact or not. The only places that I found to be using 1.5mm pads was the rear heat sink on the GPU and components on the left side of CPU socket.

 

Yes. i've used 1.5mm on rear heat sink on the GPU and on the left side of CPU socket too.
I dont know if its just because dell pads looks taller cause they look more like a sponge but definitely
it was thicker than arctic 1.0mm.
Can you explain me how can i use this paper method?

 

They use squishy pads which get thicker around the edges when compressed the same way they get slimmer at the point of contact. What temps are you seeing on the gpu after repaste? And what paste did you use?

 

I did a repaste with grizzly kryonaut. 77C max GPU temps while playing COD BO4 or BF5 for about 2+ hours. Before my repaste was 71C more os less...

obs: using max fans all the time playing games.

 

That increased temp could be because of improper contact of heat sink to the GPU because of thicker pads keeping it from coming all the way down. If temps are worse than stock then you should investigate that.

 

That sucks... Acc. to Intel NUC spec sheets and in general their hardware, 2 sticks will let you run at XMP while 4xSODIMM might depend on board or OEM to enable/disable XMP and by default, it switches to stock freq. 2133(skylake) 2400(Kaby/CFL) and 2667 (9th gen ).

 

can also be from superior heat transfer, but that would also happen with the 17 W/mk fujipoly

 

Thank you.

Is it possible to know the version of the GPU by software, without disassembling the machine to access the GPU?

 

I don't believe so, the only way is to get into the guts of the machine, unfortunately.

 

I took it as a test run using of a BIOS by the AW folks, and the score is something that Prema happened to find.

 

They only changed the installer. The ROM itself is exactly the same.

What OC frequency have you set for that offset?
The lowest I was able to set with 50x in all cores is -131.8V on adaptative and 1.1660 @ 51x in all cores on static. I have a 9900K

Which processor do you have?

 

That’s fine.. the release notes say:

“RTX2080 200W VBIOS

This package contains the VBIOS for RTX 2080 video. It is supported on Dell Alienware Area-51m system that runs Windows 10 operating system. Before installing this update, you must update the system BIOS to version 1.3.0 or later.
Fixes & Enhancements
Fixes
- Fixed the issue where McAfee scan engine displays warning message when user launches the tool.”

 

9900K... it crashed after 45 minutes or so when I started installing Office... ended up reseting it back to stock...

 

As for the ram sticks, mine came with Micron, which was good, allowing me to purchase an extra 32gb from Crucial... it arrives today...

 

Try -125 and 1.2v

 

Hey guys, I've a question for you guys. My delidded 9700k, 2080 combo from Hidevolution with full thermal mods is on its way and I plan on undervolting both CPU and GPU from day one for maximum performance. Can I over clock it and undervolt it at the same time? What sort of a setting am I looking at here?
If I can run the CPU at 4.8Ghz on all cores and anything over 2000Mhz on the GPU at all times without exceeding 80°C, I'll be a happy camper.
Is this possible with my specs? If yes, how would you approach it?
Thanks for all you input guys. Cheers

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It depends on your chips and your luck. I can easily undervolt my current 9900k by -120mV and overclock to 5 GHz across all cores at the same time, but I could hardly get to -115mV with my older cpu at stock speeds, forget overclock. Same goes for GPU.

 

How much did you pay extra for these "thermal mods" ? sounds alot of crap to me.

As for tips for your undervolting, search the pages its has been asked a 1029 times.

 

Apologies if you have overclocking knowledge etc. but this post might help get you started in terms of playing around with the overclocking tools and let you find your CPU/GPU's optimum settings - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...m-owners-lounge.826831/page-981#post-10905348

Again sorry if you already know the basics.

 

It didn’t work... blue screen... tried -0.120V as well... also blue screen...

Thanks though!

 

Start with Intel XTU. Undervolt to -50mV and run the built in CPU stress test in that application. If it passes (1 minute is enough for first tests), increase the undervolt by -5mV and repeat. Keep doing it until you encounter a failure. Once you do, back up a little bit from that point and that's your reference.

 

Who puts stickers on PC's anymore? I always peel the Intel stickers off the palm rest when i gt them, lol.

 

I just bought 2 RTX metal decals for 18 bucks, specifically for this laptop.

 

LOL! I assume opinions are going to vary, but those bloody decals are usually the first thing I remove on any case/laptop that enters into my domain.

 

Anyone else purchase from HID recently and opened theirs up to see if they have the new updated parts?
I just placed an order from HID 9900k/2080, usually i wouldnt be worried, but the time it takes to be produced and shipped is just giving me more time to be paranoid.

 

Willingly placing more advertising on something baffles me too.

I would appoxy the grooves around the alien logo and spray paint the entire lid if I was confident paint would cure on that soft touch material.

 

Whats better to undervolt... xtu or throttlestop..

 

I’m proud to have RTX and intel in my laptop, and if the decals are metallic and one color, looks great on the white system. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.


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