*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R2 Owner's Lounge

same here. My 10700K at 4.9ghz all core can game all day at -125mv but will bsod eventually when idle. The dynamic voltage is probably not fast enough to respond to load when sitting idle with this high of an undervolt

 

Hi guys I’m new , I’ve tried searching the forum like a good peon but couldn’t find anything specific. I tried gaming on my new r2 with 10900k 2080 super and the cpu was staying at 100 degrees during a gaming session so I stopped and tried undervolting -100. it seems to have helped by about 15 degrees on avg maxing out at 90. I was thinking of buying a DeLid cpu from silicon lottery for 1k after seeing the results of my current cpu any ideas on this or other solutions? Thanks.

 

Careful if you attempt to delid. I just tried. CPU split in half. I was very careful. So 900$ down the drain tomorrow.

Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk

 

Holy **** man. I feel for you.
Did you use the 3d printed tool do it?

I've always been put off delidding for this reason.

 

Damn :-/

Did you heat the IHS for 4 or 5 minutes with a hair dryer? Which delid tool did you use?
I used the Rockit cool delid tool and guide for soldered cpu's and everything went well....

Inviato dal mio LYA-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk

 

I believe I found the cause and a solution, at least in my case. It's Kaspersky. What I have to do is - stop the AWCC service, pause Kaspersky protection, restart the AWCC service, (then resume Kasperksy). Once I've done this, AWCC works as expected. No more spinning dots.

 

It's true what they say then: if you don't stop Kaspersky, Kaspersky stops you!

 

Always had Kaspersky cause issues with 3rd party software for me since many years. I'm talking legit popular programs like Nero Burning ROM, Nero Recode, any VPN. I'd never install Kaspersky on my machine even if you paid me.

 

I will be totally honest here. Please no need to tell me how stupid i was.....i already know.
I used a razor blade. I was very carefull, went in very slow. I did not scratch anything inside. When i had finish doing all four corners i heard a noise, like crushed glass? Hum...i tought it was the soldering but it was the CPU separating in half. My heart stoped for a minute. I then tried to removed the soldier part from the IHS and it is glue like almost impossible to remove.
I think theres a chance this CPU was already defective from the inside cause it took no pressure to sepate the IHS from the board.
Or most probably
It's user error. I should never attemped that without the best possible tool.

Anyway i spent another 861$ today and the new CPU is much, much better. Runs at 49X CB R20 witth -80Mv undervolt and cpu package was only 96C. All the other cores below 94C. No thermal throttling.

 

Hello,
No i did not heat the IHS. I did not see that procedure on the youtube video i saw. Maybe i should have. I wanted to order Rockit tool but it would take to long for shipping so i took a big risk and failed.

 

Here is my new 10900K CB R20 running at 49X -80MV undervolt. Temps are impressive compare to my previous one.

 

Ah that sucks. You live and learn i guess, glad the new one is running alright for you.

 

Should normally not be needed with der8auer Delid-Die-Mate 2 or Rockit's tool. And stay away from from the printed tools. Wish you better better luck next time, bruh

 

I returned my first 51m R2 to change some options but it wasn't very stable with -100mv and 4.8/4.9. My new 51m R2 is stable at 4.9 with a -100mv all day long. It will throttle occasionally at 4.9 under 100% load for a long time but it hasn't BSOD, locked up, or had any other issues. When I do run it at 5.3 for a quick bench I bump it to -80 to avoid freezing up. I wonder if I got better chip withy second machine or the first was just bad? Initially I tested this machine with TS and XTU. I went back to AWCC for this machine since I'm not benching and don't care to run another OC software every boot. So far AWCC has done a good job running the OC without issues.

 

I have 3 question guys!


1. I'm about to order a 3200Mhz 51m, Can i replace the ram with any other 3200Mhz ram with better timing?

2. What bios / Vbios are reccomended for the 51m r2 / 2080S

3. The laptop will be setupped in 2 x 500GB raid, can i just swap the 2 NVME and use it in regular mode or is there a configuration i need to do to remove the raid?

Thanks

 

HyperX Impact 3200 - either 2x16 or 2x32 works.

 

When you perform the overclock in AWCC do you keep the voltage as auto managed? And do the clocks actually hit 4.9? I set the frequency at 4.9 and was using CPUID to monitor and only hit a max 4791MHz. Still new to the whole overclocking thing as I'm not as much an enthusiast on the subject.

 

man does the fan control work in AWCC or am i doing something wrong? area51 r2 up to date. Just asking before going outside the box. thx

 

No, it doesn't work as expected. If you set manually the fan speed - it goes to 80% speed and above.

 

AWCC fan control is not working properly. Any settings you will attempt to do will be from: Minimum: 80% fan speed and Maximum: 100% fan speed.
For example if you set it to be silent at 50Celcius it will ignotre your request and still run it's minimum speed: 80%.
So in the end, it is totally useless. Same goes for their undervolt CPU (you cannot control core and cache seperatly, cannot control Pl1 and Pl2, disable turbo boost, control speedshift etc...) and also for overclock gpu also useless since MSI afterburner does a better job.
I recommend you set fan profil in awcc to balanced for quiet operation, change it to performance or full speed while gaming.
Try to use third party software as much as you can to avoid using this cancer awcc software....but for fan speed it remains the less worst option.

 

No I set it to 1.4v and apply a -100mv under volt which is the max for AWCC. If you want to go more you need to lower the 1.4 setting. AWCC is not the best way to tune or the most efficient. I wouldn't use it on a desktop to be honest. For "this" laptop it's quick and easy and seems to be working well and stable for the 51m R2. Just to be clear, I did use XTU to test and tune and find the magic spot where I could under volt and keep thermal in line without BSOD and for me, @ 4.9MHz it was no less than 1.20V at max MHZ or it would freeze and lock up or BSOD. That's why I only went down to 1.30V to give it a little room and prevent crashing.

Yes the clocks actually hit what you have it set on. I would get off CPUID and grab HWINFO. It will give you a lot more info. You probably didn't hit 4900MHz because you didn't have enough load on each core. Try running 3D mark, PC mark, cinebench, etc. They will help. There are a few good writeups on tuning the 10900k and 2080S to full potential in the 51m. I have done that with both machines to see what I ended up with. I just don't run them on a day to day basis since I am not trying to run this laptop at full power anyway.

Here's a screen shot of how I run AWCC for OC/UV. I don't have my 2080S active since I am using my AGA and 2080TI at home right now so I can't grab its screenshot for OC. But I run about 175 OC on core and 175 OC on memory and it has been very stable. Your specific machine may be different and not as stable at those settings or more stable and you can go further with the OC/UV. If your trying to find that max you'll need to do some reading and watch some videos and understand what everything does a little more and grab a better software for the OC/UV like Throttlestop or XTU. They both work well but I like XTU for the 10900k better since it handles all 10 cores. When they update TS to handle more cores it would be my choice hands down.

All that being said I am just a novice and I'm sure there are some way smarter people in this forum that can be a lot more helpful. This was just my approach to this machine. I have been out of the OC game since I built my V8 OC record holding intel skulltrail in 2009 so there is a lot of new info for me as well.



Here's a screenshot of HWinfo where it shows the values. There is a ton of info in HWinfo that will show you the load on each CPU as well. It also does this for all hardware attached to your CPU so it's a great resource to monitor GPU, RAM, SSDs, etc.

 

Very nice! looks like you got a Unicorn there. Neither of my 10900k 51m R2s can go through full cinebench without hitting thermal limit once or twice at 4.9mhz and -100mv.

 

I got lucky with this new one. I repasted with Thermalright TFX and i use Quick CPU to undervolt.
My stable setting is: -50MV for cache and -80MV core. No BSOD.
Running 49X cyberpunk (fan max, ultra settings) 91C max on core package. On BFV 80C cpu core max and GPU 67Cmax.

 

Man that is strange .. I can't bench on 4.9mhz without thermaling or running into current limit, but my cyberpunk cpu temp on ultra is 55, 65 w onboard 2080s active. And my BFV max settings is 65max temp.

 

I am pretty sure you are not running windows power plan at performance or you are running the games at 37X. See in Hwinfo what is your avergage clock speed when you finished gaming. Mine is at 49x for minimum, average and maximum. Core 4 just max temp was 93C and average for all cores were 75C.

 

I run windows power at high performance. I get full power to GPU/CPU and 4.88MHz in HWinfo. Avg MHz in HWinfo is between 4.5-4.8MHz depending on the game. Less CPU intensive games are lower and games like cyberware are higher.

 

I see what is confusing you.
You think you run the game at 49X because you have set AWCC at 49X overclock but.........this is the turbo 49. Your real clock speed is 45X all cores when you do that.
If using AWCC to have 49X all cores mean you should set a profil at 53X.
Look at the picture of your profile you posted before. Pay attention to minimum clock speed: 4.489

 

I guess I'm not following. I also use XTU at times and set it to 4.9 and 4.5 cache with -1.2MV undervolt and see the same min and max and avg clock speeds on my processors. The avg is thrown off a little due to time spent between games and in menus but when gaming and I tab out to check it its at 4.88mhz current speed. Am I still missing something?

 

Heres a screen shot while game is running

 

Run CBR20. Reset Hwinfo64 right after you have clicked run then take a screenshoot right before the benchmark is finished. Then you'll see correct boost clock speed. And you're sure you use High Performance power plan?

 

I only have CBR23 but it shows same thing. I'll run it again.

 

I ran CBR23 and as usual it "Thermal'd" me down to 4.5mhz.

 

Here's a screen shot when it starts throttling down for heat. It starts at 4,880MHz and steps down as the temps come up. I have played with ICCMAX to try and limit the current and I can get it off thermal limit and on current limit. Not sure if that is any better. It stays around 95C when I current limit ICC to 210A. Not trying to bench it. When I play cyberpunk it get good thermals like I posted at high 60s and solid at 4,880Mhz.

 

In this picture i see 37X being minimum wich indicates me the you were not running windows power plan to performance.
I also see your max temps have reach 77C after 3 minutes of gaming at an average of 48X.

Tips: when you benchmark you wan't to see constant core clock (no drops). If you notice any drops under load means you are not running max performance or CPU is throttling. That will reduce your temps by a lot. Follow @Papusan procedure for gaming also. You will see real results.

 

I think that show'd the minimum 37x because I swapped over to XTU and turned off AWCC OC. I can't get this machine or my last same spec'd 51m to hold a clock over 4.8 without thermaling or current limiting depending on tune. Here's my XTU settings. any suggestions?

 

See It only took 14 seconds for your CPU to trottle (most probably thermal throttling) to 46X on this picture. Cyberpunk is a very demanding game and just loading the game at 49X makes my CPU reach high 70'S. You are most probably running that game at 37X when you were having those great temps.

Ho yes i think i just found out the issue. Another great (Kidding) feature of AWCC is it sometimes disable overclocking feature when it dectets an issue. That make the CPU run minimum cores = 37X untill the next reboot. Maybe that is what happened when you saw great temps.

 

I would set a profil that can sustain constant clock speed and good temps if it was me: 48X or 47X.
-135MV undervolt is too much (i think) you will bsod if you keep it like that.
I would use Quick cpu insteand of XTU and have it open minimize with windows (set AWCC overclock to off).
Use a cpu stress test to test stability of your undervolt. If you have BSOD it's most probably undervolt that is too much.

 

That screenshot was with CBR23, not cyberpunk. I can probably only run about 4.7 or 4.8 without throttling during a bench, but I can run games and cyberpunk under 70 just fine. Not sure why. I'll run cyberpunk for 10 mins and post hwinfo.

 

Loaded up Quick CPU. Started at 4.7. Almost thermal throttling after 45 second test.

 

Its about time for re-paste and delidding the Cpu. You know who applied the paste? And what brand? Check also the thermal pads imprint from the components. Too much imprint from the components means the heatsink will be pushed away from the IHS.

 

I think I am going to have to agree with you on that one. I wasn't going to mess with this one since it doesn't seem to have that great of results with the new "soldered" lids but since I'm not getting near the performance it seems time to do it. I know games do not load the system as much, but I wonder why I can play cyberpunk and keep the temps down so well. Oh well. Thanks for the help guys.

Oh, and what do you recommend for delid tool and paste and for repaste? as far as I have read the good stuff lately is conductonaut liquid metal for delid and kryonaut for top of IHS. I'm not after max performance and short life span as much as longevity.

Was looking at the De8auer die mate and the Rockit tools. Anyone have any preference?

 

Both tools is good. Remember Quicksilver https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/9th-gen-cpu/products/quicksilver-solder-remover (also Liquid metal works for removing the Stim). Flitz Polish is also nice https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/collections/clean-and-prep/products/flitz-polish

Maybe just buy everything from Rocket cool.

I prefer Conductonaut for botht the die and IHS. Otherwise is Phobya NanoGrease Extreme safe on top of IHS. Liquid metal for the die. Kryonaut ain't for longevity.

This one ain't so known, but good Silver King – Thermalright

 

Haha I just ordered straight from Rockitcool since they are in Texas as well. Can't get any Phobya any time soon so I will probably just use some Arctic MX-4 since it has worked well for me before.

Should have it all here mid week. Should be interesting to see before and after since the before performance is sub par in my opinion. Will be interesting to see if I can get it to come up to 4.8 or 4.9 without thermal throttling. I'll report back when I finish it.

Thanks again for the help sir.

 

You can try the new thermalrighy TFX for the IHS (it's the one i use) it is better then kryonaut and MX4 (temps and thermal conductivity). I also prefer it over Phobya nonogrease for same reason. The only issue with this paste is that it is extremly thick. So you have heat it with boiling water in a plastic bag before applying it. You do NOT SPREAD this paste but you apply an X patern instead.

Good luck on your project.

 

The screen on 51m R2 300Hz is the AUO B173HAN05.1, im doing a upgrade on my MSI GT75 with 120hz(chimei N173HHE-G32) to 300Hz(AUO B173HAN05.1) also...anyways dont know if will work but you can check my thread when i got the screen.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/n173hhe-g32-cmn1747-with-green-dots-please-help.834742/

Also you can check the details of the screen here:

https://www.panelook.com/B173HAN05.1_AUO_17.3_LCM_overview_44168.html

If you need the pdf datasheet of the B173HAN05.1 for more details just PM me since i have it.

 

Thanks for the detailed response it's very much appreciated. I think I should have led with that I owned a 10700K so the settings available may be a little different. I have been using the AWCC "test" when I make adjustments, so is it safe to say that this isnt enough to properly stress the processor? Seems to run for less than a minute. HWinfo just seems a lil too robust compared to CPUID but I will learn to use it. We probably need a repository for OC settings in AWCC as i may not be going down the XTU or Throttlestop route anytime soon.

On a side note: Was the question of whether or not an i9 10850k would be able to work on this Area 51M?

 

AWCC doesn't do anything to stress the CPU. Grab cinebench or PCMark. The OC settings in AWCC are very minimal. After Normimb suggested Quick CPU I gave it a shot and really like its simple easy layout and the fact that it will auto start and load the profile on boot. That is what I would recommend now for sure. You can go into advance CPU settings and set your core clock, voltage, and OC stuff quick and easy. You do have to create a FIVR profile on that tab to get the voltage and ratio settings to stick on boot but its easy and only takes a minute. Great software.

I am down to 4.6GHZ on cinebench r23 to run continuously without a thermal throttle with -100MV under volt. Going to be delidding and repasting on Wednesday. Going to be interesting to see results.

 

What's your ambient temp for your room? That can have a huge difference in the temps you're seeing when the cpu is loaded. I know with it being winter and having the heating on my cpu hits 100'c on tests it wasn't before. It's still fine when gaming though so i'm not too bothered.

 

I don't think that's my issue.
68deg F gear round in my house.

 

So I was able to delid and repaste to day. Used the Rockit tool, worked very well with no issues. Also used their liquid desolder which worked great. I used conductonaut on the processor and Arctic MX-4 since it was easier to get quickly and has worked well for me in the past. I re-assembled with no issues.

So the results.... First, I started with a blue screen which made my heart sink! I am very meticulous when I work on electronics and a clean freak. I was about to take it back apart and I rebooted and it booted normal.

As far as the performance, unfortunately I did not improve at all. If anything it got worse. Now I am thermal throttling with CBR23 at 4.6GHz/46 ratio with all other things for my before and after test being equal. If anything I figured cleaning the dust out of the fans and ducts would be a help as well.

I am thinking I may have an issue with the conductonaut or paste. I spread a thin amount on the processor after polishing everything up nice and pretty.

Below are some pics, any thoughts?