Acer Aspire 1410 and 1810 Timeline 11.6" Thread

You have a single core?

 

Did you do a fresh install of Win 7 or are you using the stock Acer install? In case you did a fresh install, did you install Acer ePower manager, or just using default Win 7 power drivers?

 

Yepp - this is a good question!

Is it better to use the Windows 7 Power Management or to use the Acer eManagement tool?


There is one setting more that gives you a lot of battery life in my (just my subjective) experience: the power saving of the graphic chip - in the graphic options there is a button 'energy saving mode' (don't know the exact english label). I usually put the slider to the top where it says 'maximum energy savings'.

Unfortunately this setting is not saved if I switch power modes or boot up again does anybody know how to keep this setting and if this really has an effect on battery life?

 

Is anyone else with the 1410 seeing screen flicker on power save mode? It happens to me on like the 4 lowest / dimmest LCD settings

Hmm, found an article about that with the Acer One. Acer put out a bios update for that which removed those 4 lowest settings. Not IMO the best fix... Anyone else having this issue on their 1410 or is it really a problem with mine?

 

It is SU4100, duo core.

I am using win7 from the original install. Haven't reformat or anything. So, it is the original setting from factory.

 

Differences in power consumption cal also be caused by different hard drives.

Especially in idle some hard drives can go in very low power mode.

 

Hey Phil, I can't seem to get the gamma down to less than 1.0 either on my 1410, and yes, I'm going thru the little Intel icon in my systray. I'm running driver version 8.15.10.1855 with Win7 Home Premium.

Is this the latest driver version or not? The date stamps between Intel & Acer are always off and Intel seems to use very odd version numbers, from what little I've seen.

Thanks!!

 

That means your LCD TV is a 720p native screen. Set your laptop's secondary display resolution to 1280x720 or 1360x768 and you'll have a better looking picture. Plus less than 1080p is easier for your laptop to process (more performance).

Yes along with the hard drive spin down timer. I set mine to stop spinning after 5mins on battery and 10mins on AC. I never have a problem with apps being slow, it only stops spinning if the HDD is not used for that much time and with the amount of system ram plus if you're using readyboost your HDD doesn't need to be used much.

Another factor is the difference in power consumption between celeron, pentium, core 2, and then multiply that against single vs dual core lol. More cpu cache means less reprocessing and fetching for the cpu which reduces cpu activity. Also the different architectures likely have different power saving capabilities. I expect the celerons to be the largest power consumers. I'm using the Core 2 Solo SU3500.

 

Guys where can i find and download the Acer ePower Management tool?

Is it better than the Windows one?

 

Strange, I don't see it on Acer.com

I would guess it's better.

 

Hey there,

ICC profiles are only interesting for applications like Photoshop. A color "profile" only tells an application like photoshop what red looks like to you in your environment with your monitor so that when you go to print your work, it will look more or less the same.

You're much better off using say, Windows 7's built-in manual calibration routine to build such a profile than to use a profile made by another user on another unit in another environment.

When you use a HW calibration tool, it actually loads correction data in the GPUs internal LUT (lookup table), so that every application, incl. of course, the OS, makes use of the corrected color info. These corrections are actually transparent to the applications.

The Spyder "Express" versions go for roughly $100. I realize this is no small expenditure, but I've calibrated five displays with the same unit making it, in the end, a good investment!

 

I didn't realize Windows had something like this (A lot better than Intel's calibrator). Everything looks great now, the colors don't looked washed out now.

 

If I want to use the webcam with MSN or Skype or something do I need to have the Acer Crystaleye program running as well? I've never used a webcam before.

 

I second Traveller's comments on the Windows 7 calibration tool. Works great and will actually save you power since most TVs are calibrated to be demonstrated and not watched on a regular basis. As far as HDMI goes most cables at about any price should do the job for short runs. You could verify your cable against a backup but I doubt that you have any cable issues. One person asked about Readyboost and SD cards vs USB. I used a free software tool (sorry can't remember the name of it) to check the read and write speed of all my sd, sdhc, and usb flash drives. It was interesting and suprising which ones really were faster. There was also a discussion about using the router firmware upgrade Tomato software. I used to have a WRT54G v1.1 and I put Tomato on it. Had a great experience, but I needed to upgrade to 10/100/1000 and the old router was only 10/100. Most of my computers are wired so it was necessary, but I wish I had a good router that was both a gigabit switch and a good wireless router. Seems hard to find a good combo. Also it seems hard for me to believe that someone is surfing and only using 5.6w. My single core su3500 would be really pressed to ever hit that and maintain it for any period of time. The processor uses that much most of the time without taking into account the hard drive, wireless, memory, etc. Try this test. Charge your battery completely and then go surfing with a Killawatt on your power cord. I would be interested in a different perspective of the machines power consumption. I hope you are right but it doesn't seem logical. Anyway, thanks for the great discussions.

 

I just purchased the Gateway EC1437U which from what I gather is the same as the Acer 1810. It came with 3gb of memory. I want to replace the 1gb stick with a 2gb stick but don't know what to order. I went to Crucial's site and their scan came up with nothing. Can anyone tell me what memory stick to order. Thanks.

 

It is not necessary; you only need [correct] drivers installed for your WebCam.

Cheers,
Kermee

 

Yeah, that's where I looked for the gamma but it only has a range of 1.0 to 5.0. So I guess I don't have the latest driver then?

I'm on the Intel site now, looking at the list of laptop chipsets. Which one does the 1810TZ use? They have listed: 815, 830, 845 and 852?

Thanks.

 

I used this one:
Mobile Intel® 4 Series Express Chipset Family

 

That's the one.

 

I can't find it on Acer.com... I have ePower on my machine but I can't open the program, all the exes are there and in the start menu etc....

Anyway, I think the only way you could get it back, is a restore...

 

Intel say sthe gs45 can take:

"Dual-channel memory controller supports non-ECC, 667/800 MHz DDR2 or 800/1066 MHz DDR3 SO-DIMM SDRAM, and provides high-speed memory transactions for greater system performance."

I know we can upgrdeo to 800mhz dd2, but has anyone tried 1066mhz dd3 sodimms?

 

Hmm bad news. i was just about to do a clean install Now I am not sure.

PS the Epower does not have a program, it's a setting for power management that controls display brightness and aero (and possibly other things).

It does not fit.

 

So which one of these would work
2GB DDR2 800MHz Non-ECC CL5 5-5-5-15 1.85V
2GB 800MHz DDR2 Non-ECC Low-Latency CL4 4-4-4-12 1.95V

 

@Lucero

I would look into the installed Ram with e.g. CPU-Z. Buy the ram which fit best to the ram you have. Faster Ram would not make sense because the ram is powered with the settings of the slowest ram.

 

(as said before series 4)

Make sure you get the .exe file and not the .zip file.

 

I did the clean install but I'm regretting it. Battery life indication is only about 5 hours, while the Acer install said 8. I wonder if this is due to Acer ePower manager.

Any ideas on how to get it?

Edit: I might have complained to early. After setting the Intel GMA driver to max battery life it seems to be back at >8 hours.

 

I was going to replace both sticks.

 

I am about to try getting some real batt life out of this thing. I am well versed in rmclock... where is the setting in the gma driver to get max battery life? I would look but I am in ubuntu ATM...

 

My 1810TZ came with 800MHz DDR2 as standard, below is the specs from CPUZ for reference:

DIMM # 1
SMBus address 0x50
Memory type DDR2
Module format SO-DIMM
Manufacturer (ID) Elpida (7F7FFE0000000000)
Size 2048 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC2-6400 (400 MHz)
Part number EBE21UE8AFSA-8G-F
Serial number ---
Manufacturing date Week 36/Year 09
Number of banks 2
Data width 64 bits
Correction None
Nominal Voltage 1.80 Volts
EPP no
XMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 4.0-4-4-12-16 @ 266 MHz
JEDEC #2 5.0-5-5-15-20 @ 333 MHz
JEDEC #3 6.0-6-6-18-24 @ 400 MHz



DIMM # 2
SMBus address 0x52
Memory type DDR2
Module format SO-DIMM
Manufacturer (ID) Elpida (7F7FFE0000000000)
Size 1024 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC2-6400 (400 MHz)
Part number EBE10UE8AFSA-8G-F
Serial number ---
Manufacturing date Week 31/Year 09
Number of banks 1
Data width 64 bits
Correction None
Nominal Voltage 1.80 Volts
EPP no
XMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 4.0-4-4-12-16 @ 266 MHz
JEDEC #2 5.0-5-5-15-20 @ 333 MHz
JEDEC #3 6.0-6-6-18-24 @ 400 MHz

 

In Windows 7 it's rightclick the GMA driver in the system tray, Graphic Properties, Power.

 

What driver version are you running? I dont have the power option.

 

Latest from Intel.com. Series 4 chipset driver.

Download the .exe file and run it.

Using the auto update feature in Windows or using the .zip file does not give the same options.

 

I got this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laptop-Keyboard-Skin-for-ACER-Aspire-1410-1810T-11-6_W0QQitemZ370292682009QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563729ed19

which is pretty similar I should imagine. It fits pretty well.

 

I'm probably late coming into this but I had the EXACT SAME issue with my 1810T, which also come up within a week of use.

What seemed to do the trick for me was to go through the recommended process of running down the battery till it hibernates/shuts down on its own, and then charging it up again. I notice the problem went away after a few cycles (2-3 times? I didn't really take note). You could try that.

 

Uh

shouldn't the correct drivers have come with it?

 

I also thought that there is no way to uninstall the epower stuff once you install them -- or at least that's what I figured when I had the stock install. So I am reluctant to install it now that I did a fresh install, unless there is almost a guaranteed benefit. However, appears there is no clear consensus that having epower helps or hurts -- it looks like it doesn't matter?

If anyone finds out otherwise, please post.

 

I guess I'm just paranoid. I'm afraid of putting my 1410 in my backpack with my other books in there.

 

I don't think you're paranoid.

I wouldn't do it without at least a neoprene sleeve and something in between of the keyboard and screen.

 

Hmm that`s weird. I`ve had my 1810T for about a month now and everything worked like a charm. I got around 7+ hours of battery life.

Suddently BatteryBar decided that something was wrong, and started telling me that i had only 2:30 hours left even though the battery was at 80%. Still, it was just a wrong reading, since the computer kept going even after the 2:30 hours.

I decided to run my battery down to calibrate my BatteryBar readings, and now it`s telling me that i`ve lost 1,6% of its capacity! Weird.

What should i do now? Should i run it down again , or am i risking losing more % of mW?

 

Commonly it's advised against frequent full discharges.

A deepcycle once in a while can help calibration and regain capacity.

For battery longevity it's best to keep cycles between 80% and 20%.

Even better is to store it in a plastic bag in the fridge charged at 40%.

 

I use a laptop jacket with my 1810T-

 

Yes, the readings do fluctuate quiet a bit initially, though I didn't get down to 2:30. Maybe just a software glitch? I wouldn't get too worried unless the wear was increasing too quickly.

I have no science to back up my initial recommendation of (almost) fully discharging it, so YMMV.

Anyway, on what configuration did you get 7+ hours? I've generally only gotten 5-6hrs with mine. I've uninstall most of the bloatware, although I still run Aero (does it make a big difference?). Bluetooth off, Wifi ON, screen brightness in the middle.

 

I decided to go for it and drain the battery. It`s now charging.

I did a fresh install of Windows 7 maybe this helped. I also run a SSD which helps with the power consumption.

I noticed that now with my 1.6% loss of battery life BatteryBar reports back the correct time remaining. I just have to keep my fingers crossed now until its fully charged again. Maybe i`ve gone to 0, maybe 5%

Will let ya know

 

Thanks for the reminder.

Perhaps I had my "battery wear" issue initially because I only did 1 deep cycle when I got the laptop, not 3 (as recommended I think).

Do you know if there's any problem with pulling out the battery while AC power is on? I prefer to run on AC when I can that these days to minimise battery wear, but I usually shutdown before removing the battery.

 

Go for it. I also heard storing batteries in the freezer helps prolong their life when not being used. Anyone heard a similar thing with these type of batteries? (or maybe it was the refrigerator...)

 

Here's an interesting read on battery wear, where the element of poorly coded ACPI is exposed as possible part of the problem:

http://www.notebookreview.com/default.asp?newsID=3537

Personally, battery bar never really gave me a stable remaining time, and always differ from the Windows' prediction by hours sometimes. This happened in the stock install as well as a fresh install now. I did a full discharge today and now BatteryBar reports 2.2 % wear. Excellent!

EDIT: Additional link about battery maintenance, which reflects some of the advise otherwise also shared by some in the forum (fundamental physics of batteries do not depend on manufacturer for Li Ion, so the Thinkpad advise should be generally valid):

http://www.thinkwiki.org/wiki/Maintenance

 

No problem.

 

Hmmm another one with a battery wear problem. I guess the calibration ruins the readings, there could be no other explanation...

I`m still waiting for mine to fully charge, "no more nails to bite"

 

Batterybar gave me to many errors. I removed it and did a clean install.

I'm not touching it anymore.

 

Clean install of what? Windows ?
Doesn`t just uninstall work?