Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
UGG as Much as it pains me to take this computer apart it is worth it in time saved working on the computer, Here is a link to flickr stream of Upgrade, http://www.flickr.com/photos/25792168@N00/sets/72157622393042218/detail/ I made a video of it and once thru editing will post it...One thing in the photo stream you must undo all screws on the back, also on the top there are three hidden screws under the middle of the monitor covered with black stickers, just pierce with cross head...Also you need to run a rather large screwdriver down the right side of the body and bottom each side of the pad to release the plastic snaps ps familiarize yourself with ribbon fastener technology the tan fitting moves back then the ribbon comes out vice versa Please post success with Processor types!
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I managed to snag one of the Walmart versions of this laptop, the EME627-5279wm. Some observations. First of all, according to cpuid hwmonitor, this lappie runs amazingly cool for an amd based unit. Overclocked to 1836mhz using Setfsb, with my 7 dollar auxillary exhaust cooler, and running on the Max Performance settings (24/7 full comp speed) I see temps of 33 to 37C while doing general work, and 47 to 50 playing WOW (which this comp does very well). The comp is very quiet, well vented, no discernible hot spots. The keyboard is a very inexpensive unit, I doubt the decal type key emblems will last very long, on the other hand, the typing action is excellent with good feedback, spacing, and for my hands at least, perfectly situated for prolonged lap usage in a recliner
, that is, the area set aside for the palmrest is exactly right for my usage. It is the most comfortable of ALL of my laptops to type on for prolonged periods, which is really saying something considering my extensive collection.
Additionally, the screen is quite good, a slight tweak towards 'vibrance' in the driver, does exactly that. Colors are excellent as are contrast, focus, and screen uniformity-very easy on the eyes. Be sure and enable ClearType The DVD works well, and the screen resolution suits the screen size very well. Not too big, not too small for prolonged viewing, just about optimal
-again in that same recliner
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I contrast this with the strain that creeps up on you after awhile with the netbooks, even the 12 inchers.
The unit is cut to the bone on features however, only two usb, no built in camera or microphone, no bluetooth, and no gigabyte lan. However, I don't use those things, except for the usb ports and a simple replicator solves that problem.
Happily, the stock tf-20 is easily overclocked from 1600 to 1836 with Setfsb. Use SetFSB 2.2.134.98 and SLG8LP625T for your clock generator. On my unit the o'clock resulted in a single degree C increase.. Frankly, combined with the HD3200 I think *most* non geek types will be happy with the overall performance of the stock unit. However, the option of upgrading the cpu is seductive. I was hoping that more owners would post on the working cpus they have subbed in, however the only reports I've seen were on the TL50 and TL58. given the pita of complete disassemble /reassemble required to swap out the processor, its something I'd like to do only once LOL. Has anyone seen any positive reports on the RM series Proc's?
Seer -
"I managed to snag one of the Walmart versions of this laptop" what time you get there? I got there at 4:40 no more
Guess dads gonna get the old 3610(at least it has a mic and a upgraded proc). I saw an extra usb internal taking apart my 5517 assume it is webcam? Emachines may lack this port as reported in
http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=439220
Additionally 5517 has GIG lan -
I upgraded to a tl-58. I used prime95 to see how high the temps would get. The hottest it got was 70C, but that was with both cores at 100%..idles in the high 30s with artic silver 5.
Could you explain how to overclock a laptop? I'm typing on my q6600@3hz btw so I'm not a complete noob. I'm not really trying to overclock if its going to increase temps a lot..but if it only raises it by a degree or two why not
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AMD's run considerably hotter than comparable intels w/o careful attention to thermal control. The TL series are notorious for running hot, especially the higher clocked units.
Now, regarding the overclock, I thought I had covered that here, but checking thru the thread, I don't see it now so must have been with respect to one of the other boxes I've been playing with but I'm sure I posted here somewhere.
In any event, here's the basic info BUT, if you don't have overclocking experience you have to be damned careful you don't fry your puter. First, i wouldn't do it without auxillary cooling. I ONLY o'clock for games, no real reason to stress the box otherwise. HEAT KILLS LAPTOPS!!!.
1. make sure you've got the best contact between cpu/gpu/and chipset and the heat sink that you can. I suggest series seven thermal compound when you pull off the blue thermal pads most manufacturers use these days. The reason is that all the contact points are uneven heights..don't ask why..bad design and everyone does this on the cheap. Wouldn't cost much more to have the appropriate heights built into the sinks but NOOOOOOO....cost another 30 cents....(rant over). Anyway, seven series can be put on thick enough to bridge the gaps with acceptable thermal transfer rates.
2. get an under laptop cooler WITH FANS. On this box, the cpu fan sucks air from underneath the upper left corner. soooo, you want a cpu cooler that BLOWS air up into the inlet for the cpu fan. A little trick here, *most* of the good fan units can be reversed and for some reason they are set as "suckers" instead of blowers...so you'll have to reverse them. Next, I like to take weather stripping and *carefully* set up a gasket covering the whole bottom of the unit. This does two things, 1. creates a high pressure area under the laptop forcing air into the vents, and 2. its makes a nice adhesive cushion for the lappy to sit on so it doesn't slide around on the top of the cool pad, most of which are too darned slippery.
Ok, next, buy one of the little external *sucker* fans for the external vent on the upper left back of the lappy. Here's the one I like, http://www.acousticpc.com/evercool_fairy_lt_cooler.html
but that price is high. You can find these on the web for around ten bucks. there's another unit out there called the Rhino, but unless you're using headphones all the time, its pretty loud on high speed.
Ok, here's another trick. When you use these external sucker coolers, you want to get a good grip on the grill. Use a pair of pliers and *tweak* the hooks on the Fairy so it gets a better grip on the grill slots and you can cinch it up good.
OK, now that you've done all the foregoing, you can safely o'clock your lappy.
Download SetFSB2.2.134.98 and install it. Hit the control tab. For "Clock Generator" choose SLG8LP625T, its towards the bottom of the list of available presets. When you see that in the window, there is a button to the right that says "Get FSB" (get front side bus). Click that and numbers will appear. first one should be 164 etc.(on the stock cpu-if you have a diff cpu the number might be different.) Now below that line are two sliders. You will only use the top one. The stock cpu will allow you to push the slider to the right up to 200 (instead of the 164). Hit the button that says "Set FSB" and you will see the cpu speed readout in the lower right go to 1836 or so. If you go over 200, the spead will reset back to something lower so using this technique you gain a little less that 200mgz and that's it, however, the speed increase is definitely worthwhile. If you have a replacement cpu, it "might" allow clocking a bit higher, but I don't know that as I havn't received my replacement cpu yet.
There is also the possibility of using the AMD overdrive utility, which is supposed to work on 780 based chipsets which this unit has. However, with current drivers, it appears to be locked out on this laptop. I *think* that the drivers can be modified to make the overdrive think you're using a desktop 780 which should enable the AMD utility but I havn't tried to mod them yet.
So, at the end of this, you should get around 1200 3dmark06 with the stock TF-20 and substantially more than that with a dual core TL. Intel atom based netbooks with the exception of the HP-311 , Asus N10 series (which use the Nvidia 9400m gpu) get a bit over a 100
and cost about 100 bux more than I paid for the emachines
heheheh.
Seer
Oh, use "CPUID Hardware Monitor" to get your temps on the cpu and hd.
you should see around 40C or better at Idle. HOWEVER, it is possible to undervolt this system to pull those temps down even further, and AMD dual core's are pretty good underclockers, but that's another story. -
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It is a X64 Mobo just have to get a 64 bit os....it is dual channel so performance wise you are better off with 2gb 2x1, than 3gb 2gb and 1gb...WIreless g works for me but it is standard mini-pci I think? look on ebay and post back in the parts interchange thread
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heat kills electronics...ALL of em. Laptops don't *tolerate* more heat, they trade component life for portability. Short warranties reflect the oem's expectations. Fortunately, there are a lot of relatively easy mods you can do which will drastically increase the life expectancy of your lappie. Stands to reason that if you make the effort to get a good one at a good price, upgrade some of the components to suit your use, then get the os tweaked and your fav proggies installed; well, after all that, makes sense to make it last as long as you can. Sooooo,
here's a good plan of action depending on how serious you are.
1. first, get inside and pull the 'pads' that most oem's are using instead of thermal compound. It's a good idea to "lap" the sinks, and measure the gaps. Integrated heatpipes covering more than one component will ALWAYS have uneven surfaces. Anything you can do to achieve good contacts on all thermal surfaces will pay big dividends. A few pieces of copper sheet, or in a pinch, aluminum, will help shim things up. Use either series 5 thermal compound (for good mating surfaces) or series 7 for larger gaps. If you have the chassis clearance, you can add small heatsinks to the copper piping of the heat pipe (or wrap with fine copper wire to increase surface area), with a dremel you can open up some additional vents (make sure you've mapped out the airflow paths before you do this). Ok, now you've got some idea of the physical things you can do..but there's more.
Screw your lappie back together then do some thinking about external coolers. First consideration is mapping out the internal airflow paths. There are a ton of variations on this. Some are designed to draw air thru the entire laptop then exhaust over the radiator part of the heat pipe. some draw air from the immediate vicinity of the radiator and just shoot it out, like the Acer 5500 /Emachines e627 series. The other components have vents so that the hot air can escape near the component. However...vents being on the bottom, when the natural airflow should be UP (hot air rises) aren't very efficient. examine your own unit and work out a plan for pushing air in where you want, and exhausting where you need for maximum airflow.
There are some very compact coolers out there, so no reason NOT to use one when you're pushing your lappie on games or intense processing activities. I use an aluminum thermal plate with window gasketing material forming a pressure chamber under the lappie forcing air up and into the bottom of the lappie, which is then scavenged and exhausted over the heat pipe radiator. I also have a small evercool *sucker* fan which fits over the grill of the radiator and helps pull the hot air out.
Once you have your fans and cooler figured out, it's time to invoke some circuitry magic. What you want is something like RMCLOCK which lets you build a custom voltage/pstate transition profile. Simply put, you can determine when the laptop jumps from a low speed state to a full speed state, as well as undervolting the system to cut power use and heat.
Combine that with things like screen darkening, AMD's Fusion utility (which lets you quickly shut down or restore running threads and proggies depending on whether you need them or not depending on what you're doing).
Lastly, having done all the above, you'll find that you now have considerable thermal headroom for overclocking for when you need to push your lappie to max performance, say for gaming, and STILL be running at temps substantially below your original thermal profile.
Just as a closing example, I have one laptop I purchased for 298.00. With the above mods, for an additional 75.00 (mem and coolers) it now pulls 70 percent higher 3dmark06 scores than stock, run's from 29C to 51C (about 24C less than stock) and EASILY wipes the floor with laptops costing 3 times more..it ALSO gets 25 percent or so longer batt time when casually web browsing.."Bang for Buck" rox...
Seer
PS...Still working on the 198.00 E627 unit I got from walmart, and its ALREADY pulling over TWICE the 3dmark06 score of the 298 buck unit above...and I haven't even put in the dual core proc yet....
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Where is the "how to" thread for the Emachines please share ... all us with the 5516 5517 would be eager to see thx Seer !
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ok, lucked into a TL60 this morning, popped it in, been doing some mods, and not quite finished. From a stock 3dmark06 of 819, I'm pulling 1370's now.
The 60 is easily pushed to 2300. The temps are surprisingly low, i mean REALLY low. I've modified the pstate values and progressions. undervolted the cpu, changed the power plans, and basically set the thing up to scale from top to bottom, idle to full throat, and now...I'm pulling temps from 29C while writing this online, to 55C cranking thru 3dmark06.
cost me 40 bux for the TL60 (65nm Tyler 35 watt model)
soooo, i'm about 250 dollars into my Walmart special. 4gig 800 DDR2 ram, TL60 dual core at 2300mghz, turns out this has Wifi N, 160 gig Toshiba 5400 hd and the memstick reader.
little less than the cheapest atom netbooks
seer -
Fan will start then shut down as computer goes into boot. you should hear the cdrom turning.
More than likely the problem is your memory chips. Assuming you took them out hehehe, when you put them in you might have not got them fully seated. I'd look there first.
If that doesn't bring the monitor up then pull the plastic bezel over the start button, then remove the keyboard. look at the connections and make sure the one from the monitor is fully seated, then check the others you can see.
Assuming these are all tight, you *should* get a boot.
seer -
Hiyas Weinter
I thought about trying one of the RM's but couldn't find a report of success. As I understand it, the rm, zm proc's use the second generation S1 socket which includes provisions for dual plane voltage ramps. This in itself might not preclude using them in the regular S1 as the absence of the separate planes *might* just limit their abilities to do some of the new power down routines. The chipset itself in the 5517/e627 boxes can do a ton of things, but most of them have not been implemented on the mboards. While I had mine apart, I *did* see several mounting points where additional connectors were not soldered on, one of which looked to be setup for hdmi out but without a schema of the board, i'd b guessing on what goes where
In any event, my *guess* is that the RM, ZM, Q series would *work* but with reduced thermal capabilities. The chips seem rare and costly however, so unless someone lucks into one, I'm happy with the results of the TL
seerLast edited by a moderator: May 7, 2015 -
Well, first you need to go back and read my posts in this thread where I explain the different things you can do when you're upgrading and installing the new proc.
Ok, you should first get a good laptop cooler with fan's blowing up into the bottom of the laptop.Lots of em around. I take it a step further and put some of the window insulation foam that comes in an adhesive tape format. I put it on the cooler (not the lappie so that it makes a gasket around the bottom of the unit creating a pressure manifold from all the air being forced up by the cooler. I then use either a Rhino, or Evercool exhaust fan that clips into the grill and sucks/pulls the air out of the unit over the radiator of the heat pipe. All of this plugs into your usb port.
Now, when you disassemble your lappie to get the new proc in, I did not take the time to shim the HD3200/northbridge chip up to the heatsink/pipe as it has a large grey thick heat pad on there. What I did was leave that pad and the green pad (not as good but I was in a hurry) that covers the volt regulators, but I did spread a thin layer of arctic silver 5 over them so they would mate up well with the sink. I cleaned the sink where it mates with the new cpu and put a very thin layer of arctic 5 on that also, then was VERY careful to screw the heatsink assembly down so that it sat as square and even possible to ensure maximum surface contact on the cpu.
You also want to make sure that the radiator part of the sink sits flush up against the fan to get a good seal. You can move the fan a bit and CAREFULLY tweak the radiator part to line them up.
Ok, that's pretty much it for the hardware part.
Now for the software.
I'm using the latest Rightmark CPU CLock i could find. This is a technical piece of software so study up on it so you know what it does and how. Essentially it replaces your 'cool and quiet' cpu control giving you more options on how the processor reacts to load. It lets you undervolt and change the pstate progression patterns.
I find the "performance on demand" profile to be the best all round as it lets you dial up the power and voltage as required (which is pretty much only during gameing) but also dropping way down when you're doing trivial tasks saving heat, and batty power. I am currently using a base of .8v and a max of 1 volt at full power, which gives me a regular usage temp of around 23-24.9C (overclocked btw and a full blown game core temp of 49-50C.
Check the box for enabling automatic adjustment of intervening states and you only have to put in the lowest and highest VID values.
The other thing that rmclock lets you do is set the threshold at which the cpu transitions up to full speed. I set mine at 70 percent, what that means is that when the program you're running requires 70 percent or more of the cpu's available capacity, it will then automatically transition up to full speed on both cores and conversely when it needs less than 70 percent, it will fall back to a lower speed and power usage. *for you experts, yes, its a bit more complicated than that but , this gives everyone a general idea of what's going on)
Now, you have two problems here. First, Win 7 won't let you automatically load the 64 bit driver...there are supposed to be several ways around this, the first one I've tried doesn't work and the second is more complicated so I'll get around to that when I get some more time. In the meantime, I set RMCLOCk to load automatically. To solve the problem of having to stand right there with your finger on F8 everytime you boot, (there is a boot menu item which lets you manually permit the loading of unsigned drivers), I entered a boot password requirement in the bios (which is a good idea anyway on a laptop.) With this set, instead of the machine booting right past the f8 option then announcing that the r64 driver can't be loaded etc. forcing you to reboot...(sux) the machines starts the boot then stops at the pword screen, which is exactly where you need it to stop to hit the f8 and load the 64 bit driver. so boot up, it stops at the pword screen, you enter your boot pword, then immediately hit F8, the menu comes up you select the entry that permits loading unsigned drivers, then the boot continues and rmclock is loaded and running.
Next...overclocking.
For this I use setfsb 2.2.134.98 with the clock generator set at SLG8LP625T.
On my machine i can set the top slider to a value of "200" which results in a
cpu bus speed of 230mghz, and a top cpu speed of 2300mghz (i.e. 300mghz over the stock 2k of the TL60).
Now since the original tf20 is a single core running at 1600, we're talking dual core running 600mghz faster, and I assure you, the performance increase rocks the house. since we're on rmclock's "performance on demand" setting, however, *most* of the time we're running around 918mghz and mostly on one core so temp change is minimal, bout 1 to 1.5 degrees during normal use which brings me all the way up to around 23.75-25 C...
At full tilt running wow, i'm pulling between 52 and 98 fps and running around 49 to 50C. works just fine.
For those that don't want to manually set their overclock, there are several utilities out there that will automatically start setfsb and dial in your chosen overclock during boot. Since I also Underclock, (when setting up for max battery time) I tend to only fire up setfsb when I'm getting ready to game.
One other proggie that you can employ to good effect is AMD's Fusion utility which lets you clean out the running processes you don't need with a single click, and restore them after you're done gaming or whatever the same way
I don't see any reason why any of the TL chips will not respond similarly to what I've described as the overclocking limit of these laptops using setfsb seem to be limited by the mboard design as if you try anything higher than 200 on the slider, the system clocks back down. Perhaps one of the other software clock setting utilities does not have this limitation, but as yet I havn't tried them all. The TL60 I have has yet to crash, so I'm confident it has more headroom, but with a locked multiplier, I'm limited so far by what the clock generator will permit. I'd b very interested in seeing if one of the tl66's or 68's would work as they use a much faster HT than the 800 of the TF20 and TL60.
seer
seer -
that's what 'ambient' means heheh
seer -
Great
quite a different beast now, isn't it. You might thro some more mem at it if you're not up to 4 gig yet, set the power profile to max performance and then rerun your win performance routine and see how the scores change
with my 60 I'm seeing some interesting behavior which I didn't expect. *apparently* the op system is running off of one core which will show up to 14 to 15 percent load before the second core starts to kick in, then both will ramp up to my 70 percent level at which time the pstates jump the multiplier up, reaching the max of 10 x only when REALLY pushed.
this results in one core running way below the temp of the core handling the os, in normal stuff, some 10 to 14C lower When really loaded up, the two cores reach the same temps. AMD apparently put a LOT of work into this particular build of TL60 on thermal, clock, and power scaling of the cores as required.
seer -
I have the emachines E627 and have installed a TL-60 in it (I believe it's the same 35w version you mentioned in a previous post). I used Arctic Ceramique Paste when I installed the CPU. Right now everything is running smooth and I installed RightMark, but I cannot find any specific information on how to properly set up the voltages. As you can see, my temp hovers around the high 40's while doing very little and I haven't pushed it yet because I don't want to damage anything. Any chance you could help me set up the voltages to lower temp as much as possible without changing the clock speeds?
![[IMG]](images/storyImages/rmcpuinfo.jpg)
Acer Aspire 5516 5517 CPU UPGRADE REPLACE SWAP
Discussion in 'Acer' started by ecoholic, Nov 18, 2009.
