Acer Aspire 5740G Owners Lounge

Thanks for the reply guys, I will stay with my Atheros.
Do you have any suggestions what may cause the internet connection problems?

 

Drivers, most likely. You've mentioned that you tried to reinstall the driver but did you actually update the driver or just try to install the same one again?

 

Installed the same one again in Windows device managment.

 

@ nielless

Try this one- the most recent driver from Atheros.

 

hello guys
I'm a Aspire 5740g owner, i have i5 430m cpu and i decided to upgrade to an i7. i choose i7 820qm and if know well its supported by my laptop, is there anyone who use this cpu? i saw someone who use 840qm... anyway.... is there a chance that my laptop wont work with this cpu, im asking that i dont wanna throw money also my bios is v 1.22 and not the latest, is it problem to run the cpu? and my last Q my stock poweradapter will handle the plus Watts, i mean the i7 has more power consuption and i dont wanna switch power adapter...

Thank you very much for your answers in advance )

ohh PS.: the latest catalyst also got the brightness bug in win8? any experience?

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/468091-acer-aspire-5740g-owners-lounge-538.html#post9577540
:thumbsup:

 

Your BIOS must be updated in order to run i7 820qm.
About power consuption, I have a power adapter (Halfmman) that displays my voltage and it goes between 19.1V and 19.4V so I guess it's not a problem.
Now on Win8 the lastest Catalyst have the brightness bug but you can power off the screen and turn it back on to adjust the brightness.

 

Well, thanks for the answers guys

 

hi i have a problem when i update my bios, dosflash.bat also wont work(nothing happen) Can i get a safe method to update to 1.28 ? Ofc i uise google but too much variation and i dont wanna fail thanks

 

@X DoZ3R maybe x64 bit fault? Is that Acer official method?

Guys I have one LCD problem.
It began 1 month ago. I see white lines all over the screen but specially on the top. First was the left half of the screen and easily went away but now it's here to stay... I replaced the connector but it turns out that was not the problem.
Am I the only one to have this situation? Thank you.

 

Its offical acer method ofc, dunno what to do...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys.

Here is the method for overclocking 5740g.

You can use either setfsb or rw-everything going to the clock generator section.

You can use whatever generator that shows 133.3 Mhz bclk speed. The original one is ICS9LRS3197AKLF

So go to diagnosis tab in setfsb, set the right generator, go to 10 x 05 bit and change it to 01, update and apply.


Now go to 10 x 00 bit and you can change the bclk speed in hex digits order, as it follows update and apply:

133, 1E
134, 24
135, 2A
136, 30
137, 36
138, 3C
139, 42
140, 48
141, 4E
142, 54
143, 5A
144, 60
145, 66
146, 6C
147, 72
148, 78
149, 8E
150, 94
151, 9A
152, A0
153, A6
154, AC
155, B2
156, B8
157, BE
158, C4
159, CA
160, D0
161, D6
162, DC
163, E2
164, E8
165, EE
166, F4
167, FA

Unfortunately, 1mhz change is too much for this bclk and cause freeze after 136mhz... you can use some internet hex converter for smaller movements, but it goes in this order for example: 24,25,26,27,28,29,2a,2b,2c,2d,2e,2f,30,31,32 and so on...

I've managed to reach 150mhz bclk speed and 3,6Ghz on i7 840qm, 750mhz for 16gigs of ram.

Get your cooler run in higher speed in rw-everything for better results. btw you can slow down the cooler in the same hex order after 99 all the way to FF which is the complete stop...

Cheers dudes and happy overclocking!

And I forgot: TURN OFF YOUR WI-FI when overclocking, when you finish you can turn it back on, it took me much time to find what cause the freeze after 136Mhz bclk speed, guess it's some voltage issue or power supply of the mobo.

 

I seem to have found a problem(not 100% sure tho) with overclocking the GPU and the 14.4 drivers that i need confirmation for.
I use MSI afterburner and have 2 profiles set.
1. 610/910
2.600/900
Sadly those are the best my GPU is capable of .
Anyway.Sometimes at the higher clocked profile while playing a game,the video driver would crash and the game would freeze for a few sec and then the driver will recover. Most of the time i can continue the game and sometimes the game get non responsive and i have to kill it.
I guess that my clocks are not 100% stable,but they work on most games without problem,while on others the driver crashes randomly(that is why i have 2nd lower clocked profile).
The problem is that with the 14.4 drivers it seems that when the driver crashes instead of recovering the whole PC just freezes with this buzzing sound and the only way to recover is to hard shutdown by holding the power button for few sec.
At least i think that is what is causing the total freeze with the 14.4 drivers,since when i reverted back to 13.12 i got a driver crash around the same time/spot i get total freeze with 14.4.
For the time being i will stay with 13.12 since i doubt i will get any performance gain for our GPU with the newer drivers.
Could anyone confirm those total freezes with the 14.4 drivers when the driver crashes?
I'm not even sure if pushing your clocks slightly over your stable will reliably reproduce a driver crash.
Anyway,i would love some feedback from anyone with similar scenario like me.

 

Hi. I have a question. I have the i7 620M processor with 4Gb DDR3 (2x2Gb). I would like to increase the RAM to 8Gb, but I am thinking also in the future. Could I use only one DDR3 module of 8Gb? Or must I use two modules of 4Gb? In case that I could use only one, I could use this module also in my next laptop.

 

Tha max supported RAM for your CPU is 4 GB per slot.

 

Thank you so much! And what brand is better? G.Skill or Crucial? I am thinking to buy one of these:
G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 4GB CL9 SO-Dimm F3-1600C9S-4GRSL Memoria SO-Dimm DDR3
Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3 1600 PC3-12800 4GB CL9 1.35V BLS4G3N169ES4CEU Memoria SO-Dimm DDR3
G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 1866Mhz PC3-14900 4GB CL10 SO-Dimm F3-1866C10S-4GRSL Memoria SO-Dimm DDR3

Do you or someone knows which one is better in order to buy two modules?

Edit: I know the maximmum for my laptop is 1066MHz, but I think this modules has less latency when they work at 1066MHz and are even cheaper

 

I have expiriance with Crucial. So far no problems with the momory

 

You have to start DOS (old command.com from W98 or something like that ) from USB or CD, don't use the DOSbox in Windows or Windows at all.

@Rafita82
Buy the cheapest, you will noticed no difference from latency or whatsoever
from this laptop.

 

I Remember there were some problems with Samsung LCD in the past. There
was nothing you can do. Search for it.
Try also ext. monitor or hdmi tv to exclude graphics card.

Sorry for double post

 

Thank you so much friend!

 

External works fine but my laptops LCD is AU Optronics.
Sometimes when plugged to AC I can feel some voltage on my screen case :/
I don't know what I can do about it but thanks anyway

 

I installed the cpu and working fine. no need to update bios but thanks for the answer

 

Hello there

I faced the same problems. It's definitely a hardware problem, i.e. the interface between the video output and LCD Monitor. Just take away the top front part of your notebook and try messing around with video output interface, as laptop is idling.

 

Thanks Barliuscha but I already try that. I tested with two connectors and it's the same :/

 

Did somebody try my overclock method?

 

I was interested to do it but this screen "issue" is killing me

 

My laptop won't get cool

It was idling at 70c (low performance aka 1100-1400mhz) . Took it apart, no dust. I applied xigmatek paste. Same temps. Took it apart and made a thinner layer and get the same temps, maybe a couple degrees cooler. New this thing would only hit 74c playing games and would idle around 45c. Run the WEI and CPU hits 84c.


GPU stays cooler. It idles around 45c and maxes out at 64c during WEI.


More info. I have reaplied paste like 5 times on this thing. I had as5 a couple years ago but no difference. I also left this paste I am currently using in my car for 3 months. So it saw freezing temps and 90*f temps. Ambient temp is 26c.


Any tips to be given?

 

Did you measured temps under same conditions ? Same prog. same Windows ?
I used W7 32bit and when I run HWinfo32 v4.14-1880 temps are 10*C cooler, idle@ 31*C.!!, try more progs.


@zebandido

"External works fine but my laptops LCD is AU Optronics.
Sometimes when plugged to AC I can feel some voltage on my screen case :/"

I have same display, same voltage issue, no worried about that.

Maybe your display is dying or display select circuit is fault, maybe some capacitor is lost so your timing is gone, but it looks also like video ram issue, overclocked ?
have you tried in safe mode ? Diff. graphics driver ?
Maybe your new CPU ?
Only thing to go for Shure is chance display in other laptop.
That's al I can think about.

 

Until this day I never overclocked my GPU nor CPU. Safe mode, different drivers and OS and its the same, even on BIOS.
My guess is the new CPU... before I put the new CPU it was fine.
I wish I had another laptop to test the screen but thanks for the support anyway Andy53

 

I don't see how it could be the CPU. Do you still have the old one to test this theory?

 

Nope. But yeah it doesn't make sense pointing as CPU fault but i'm kinda desperate and my eyes at college are tired of this white lines.
I guess it's better to buy another screen

 

Default Re: Acer Aspire 5740G Owners Lounge



" I don't see how it could be the CPU "


The CPU-socket have the same " line's" as the graphic card to the LCD in case it was a 5740 without a "G" and maybe give a kind of "disruption" to the circuit.
Logical unused line's (in case of a quadcore) must be put in a logical state by pull-up or pull-down resistors and is in his case maybe not well done.

But it's also possible that a capacitor or resistor is mechanical "disconnected" by replacing the CPU, there is some hardware interfacing, see the schematic page 22 and 23, so you can not 100% sure it's the LCD.
Try to borrow a i3-330 before replacing the screen, and see that you can return the new LCD if it's not fault.
(sorry, not easy to explain for me in English, I hope you understand.)

 

Thank you for your support. Unless I buy a i3-330 I really can't replace and test it.
So you are saying that in a Quadcore processor there are some line's that are not in use, so I need to do a pull-up with a resistor to get it right?
Is that related to the discrete GPU of i3-330? That kinda makes sense but in the beggining I had perfect image before if I opened wider my screen (45º to 55º i.e) but I can't do that trick anymore and it gets worse picture and day by day it's spreading.
I've arranged a new installation of LCD with 1-year warranty. If anything goes wrong or great I will come here and share it with you guys.
Thanks Andy53 for your effort, I know that language feel

 

I call these possibility's because it's not always clear that if something looks broken, it will be really broken, especially when you recently chanced something that good be related to it.
If you had your old CPU it was easier and cheaper to check.
Yes, it had to do with internal GPU of CPU and no, you don't have to place pull-up or pull-down, there on the
MoBo or in the CPU, but maybe not good implemented, if you bought your 5740G as a Quadcore, it have to came out in the warranty period.
If your LCD is really going that worse if you described, then your properly on the good site to buy a new one.
I'm watching to see how it's going and wish you good luck.:thumbsup:

 

Thanks Andy53 .
Until I wait for a new screen today I performed a upgrade to my 5740G.
I put a Kingston v300 240GB SSD and before the "tweak" I was getting this benchmark:

and then after the "tweak" I got this:

I guess it doesn't get any better than this so I'm happy what do you guys think?

 

Check if your turbo boost works correctly coz this tweak disabled mine.

 

Nice tweak, which one did you used ?

 

Yeah I think it got disabled and I don't know turning it back on... the Turbo Boost Monitor app doesn't work.

I followed this one: http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...-series-4-5-965-chipsets-stamatisx-tweak.html

 

Neither one tweak worked for me, so turn the settings to default, use CPU-Z to check if turbo works when you put power settings to high performance.

 

I use the other one (I think Phil wrote the other guide).

I tested both and the one that disables TurboBoost had another effect on machine - CPU wouldn't under clock properly when running on a battery.
It offered better performance gain compared to the other one but I can't well be running around with notebook that neither underclocks on battery nor overclocks in TurboBoost mode.

 

Just reverted. Now I have Turbo Boost again but the monitor doesn't work.

Yeah I can confirm that. My frequency was stable at 1.8GHz.
Do you use this one? http://forum.notebookreview.com/sol...-intel-series-4-5-965-chipsets-jjb-tweak.html

 

When I read thru all this threads it make me dizzy and not to now what is the best way to do.
I think I better leave it this way.
Shame that there's no SSD tests for the "problem chipsets", SSD is an nice upgrade for new and old laptop's.
When I look at Zebandido performance 4k QD32 by default it's very poor, I don't see that back in the test's on the web.
Results from blacksapphire are very good, which intel SSD did you used ? Or have you used already a tweak there ?
How are the new Samsung's doing in our laptop ?

@ Downloads
Is It not possible to make a kind of page where we can drop a benchmark from
our SSD so that you can see what is the best drive for our laptop ?

 

It would be nice having a chart for SSD performance on our laptop.
I bought the V300 because it's cheaper. In SATAII any SSD will do the same (I guess) but the result test vary if I do 3x50MB or 3x100MB or 5x100MB.
It really doesn't matter because in "real world" this laptop fly with or without tweaks.

In other note: I've just replaced my old screen to a new "matte" one. It's better than our stock "glossy" and so far I don't have any troubles (white lines) wish me luck!

 

Of course where limited to SATA2 and our laptops are flying in all day use, but now you can not tell if you buy a cheap or expensive one, what results you will have.
If you buy a CPU update you will now what you will get.
It would be nice if this chart would be for all Notebook Review users, there are many with same chipsets or other one's, who love there old laptops.

Nice to hear your screen is fixed.

 

We could make a post here which could hold benchmarks. I could add all incoming ones to it.
I don't think it's realistically possible to get a smilar thing for the whole forum though - there are benchmark threads in SSD hardware subforum

 

I didn't no there was such sub forum, but it's endless discussion and browsing thru it with no clear view of result's.
I think for us it must be pure fact's, in a way of;

SSD: Intel 520 240GB
OS: Win7-64
BIOS: ? (necessary ?)
CPU: (necessary ?)
Problems: No or Yes, to big to mount or Yes, can not boot from it.
One or two common benchmarks, in default mode, no tweaks.

I now there is no "holy Benchmark", but if we all do the same, you got
a nice and stable picture of it.

Discussions, tweaks, or remarks can be done in our thread or in the sub threads.
What do you and all the others think of it ? Suggestions ?

 

I'd go for it. We should make one system default test for everyone who wants to participate like use CrystalDiskMark 3.0.3 x64 3x50MB or so.

 

Hi guys. I bought this backlit keyboard and I can't find where I can "pull" less than 5V from the board, I've search this thread and the TimelineX 3820TG but It was unclear to me. Did anyone this mod?
Thanks

 

Did you read #5098 at page 510 ?
Or is it different keyboard.

 

You can also have 5V from D19, where I have it for my USB3 mod, see page 514 #5139, only remove HD cover.
But you wrote "less than 5V", is 5V too much ?