what are the changes then from 1.22 to 1.28 ??
where are the release notes ??
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New video BIOS (that part wasn't advertised in release notes) and support for new CPU microcodes.
BIOS 1.28 had been released with proper release notes and then removed from Acer support site and few days later- back on-line but without release notes. -
I thought 2nd release have the detail notes. Probably I mislabel the folder.
Code:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Release History -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- MBBIO128 ------------------------ -------------------------------------- 1.Update ATI VBIOS BR035223.009, BR35534.010 2.Fix wireless disabled issue ---- MBBIO127 ------------------------ 1. update kernel code to 1.00.60 ---- MBBIO126 2010/05/04 V1.26 ------------------------------------ 1. Fixed USB port no function and hang when system enter S3 if disable CRID. ---- MBBIO124 2010/04/28 V1.24 ------------------------------------ 1. Fixed system will show only 3G at Win7 64bit OS while plug 4G DIMMs. ---- MBBIO123 2010/04/22 V1.23 ------------------------------------ It¡¦s based on V1.22 and modified the followings: 1. Update Kernel Code to 1.00.58 2. Added INT15 AX=9610, BX=023B CPU Type detection. 3. USB3G set RF off if USB 3G does not exist. 4. Fixed Ericsson 3G F3307 S3 auto resume issue. 5. 2010 SMBIOS Spec: BIOS version, Serial Number and Asset Tag unify on each type 0~3. 6. Fixed INT15 tool 1.0.5.11 hang up on X86 issue. 7. Phase in A16 workaround caused from TOPSWAP set. 8. Update ME FW to 1208
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kizwan, you know how to flash gpu bios?
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so should i update it to 1.28 ?? my grpahics performance increases as it has ati video bios update ??
anyone got any performance gain ?? -
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You cant extract it from system bios?
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1. can i use vaccum cleaner i.e sucking dust throught the heat vent ?? is it safe ??
2. how can i use eGPU on this acer 5740g ?? -
http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PE4h.html -
garfieldncheese Notebook Consultant
how exactly do you flash bios?? just click on the winflash app?? or is there some procedure to follow??
what exactly is egpu??whats the advantage -
On another note, does the Acer 5740 have a USB 3.0 port? -
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whats the cost of a new fan ?? -
New Acer 5740 fans cost around 16 USD, last time I checked, which was a few days ago. -
Hi. I have a big problem. Yesterday I put i7-620m on my system and I see a 5 to 10 degree difference in the two cores. Then I see the date of my BIOS 1.28 is different from that on the site of Acer. I try to install the newer, but at the end of installation (under Windows) I get BSOD, and now the Laptop won't start. Before many time I read one trick how to repair thise problem, but I cannot find it now. Please help me ;(
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Guys, I've just got my shiny i5-560m delivered, so don't lose your hope, it's not a scam
. It is wrapped in rose toilet paper, so the smell is nice lol.
Any hints before I start disassembling my laptop? Do I have to disassembly almost everything (like in service manual) to get to the CPU?
How to safely remove old thermal compound from the heatsink and CPU?
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OK, I make the thing with the Crysis Disk from post #7 but it update the BIOS up to 1.22 and now the i7-620m is not supported from the BIOS... what can I do except the thing that I have to put again the old one i5 update again the last BIOS and then replace back the i7-620m...
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No need to switch the processor. You should be able to resume booting to windows with i7-620m & do the BIOS update again. Recommended flash BIOS in DOS. -
@ka4o_pi4a
Could you please answer my question about disassembly? -
Edit:
Fine, I'll answer as to not get flamed that I am posting without contributing.
Disassembling laptops is fairly easy, and a manual is not strictly necessary, though it certainly is helpful to have one.
You should start by removing all detachable parts. Battery, HDD, RAM. If the CD drive holding screw is accessible, remove it and remove the CD drive. If not, that will have to wait until more of the laptop is open.
You should note what size screws fit in which sockets. I'm pretty sure all the laptops I have opened have numbers next to the holes, especially inside, designating which screw goes in where, so that facilitates things. Some don't have numbers, but those tend to be rarely used screws, for specific parts (e.g. securing the monitor).
With that, after removing screws, start removing bodywork. Don't force too much if you think it's a secured piece of plastic (i.e. when you close something and hear a *click*. I don't know what that's technically called, unfortunately); odds are you forgot to remove a screw. Just be gentle, treat it like a baby, and slowly and surely it will come apart.
If it's your first time disassembling a laptop, it might be a little stressful and you might be a little paranoid, but once you've done it opening laptops becomes second nature.
As for the heatsink, I never removed a laptop heatsink, only desktop, but I assume it's similar. Most persons will say to use isopropyl alcohol to remove the paste, then use a flat object to assist in reapplying the paste. Don't let the paste fall on the motherboard, obviously.
Don't play with the bios battery if it's removable. I once tried to remove a removable bios battery and I accidentally ripped off the entire casing, and had to solder it back on. It was a nightmare.
All in all, this is extremely basic and rather easy stuff. Like taking apart a toy train. While you have the laptop open, clean the gills of the heatsink and the fan blades and you'll be good to go. -
@ Sir Ferdek - You don't need to follow the guide step by step and it's not needed to disassembly all of the parts. When you start step by step from the guide you'll see. The old thermal compound I remove with a peace of an old T-shirt.
@ kizwan - Man I'm trying to make a bootable USB sick from one hour and I have no success. Just give me a link how to do it with some software, not to write 100 pages in CMD. -
You can use a piece of cloth to clean the old thermal compound. Will require a lot of patience. You can use Isopropyl Alcohol too.
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OK. I repair it, but not under DOS...I just can't start USB flash drive under DOS. I manage to start the windows with 1.22 BIOS and then upgrade to the 1.28 under windows. Now everything is fine. Only the temps of my new CPU are different - CPU0 - 43 degree, CPU1 - 52 degree. Is it possible to make this difference if I didn't put the cooling well ?
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Some thermal compound have curing period (I'm sure you know this). It takes from several to a couple of hundred hours and several thermal cycles to achieve optimum result. BTW, the huge difference between core 1 & 2 probably just a software glitch.
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OK, I use Arctic Cooling MX-4 and it's write that there is no curing time for it. Actually I don't care about the temps because they are normal, but the fan never stops like that. Tomorrow I'll disassembly the machine again to replace the thermal compound.
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@ka4o_pi4a you have hdd caddy instead of dvd?
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@*Yawn*...God?, @ka4o_pi4a:
Thanks for answering my questions and clearing out my concernsGonna have fun tommorow with that. It's a pity that Acer engineers designed the laptop to be that hard to upgrade. My previous one was Compal HEL80 model - cleaning heatsink or removing CPU was a matter of unscrewing 4 screws
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@scud_svk - No, I want to buy one, but I read that I need to use a 1.16 BIOS. With newer is not working... is it true ?
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what will be the easiest step by step method to apply a new thermal paste .
i have never opened a laptop but desktops are a piece of cake for me ..
what do i need to open just to apply the thermal paste ??
also , i have unistalled acer backup , so i was asking if its possible to utilize the backup key for other purpose ??
like run a program or associate a command to the backup key ?? -
No, i have 1.28 but if you flash bios from crisis disk with it, flashing doesnt ever start
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I use that way to apply thermal compound on CPU and GPU. Just you have to make a thin layer on the entire chip. Then when you apply the cooling be sure not to move it on the chip - just put it there and tight the screws from 1 to 7.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMx2lIt5RC4
I just reapply my thermal compound and I have now better result with lower compound. First time I put much more - now is better.
I have 45 degree on GPU, and 43 degree on CPU0 and 48 degree on CPU1. -
I have 81ºC at 100% load, in windows 47ºC
I used 2 lines of paste. If you make layer it makes air bubbles, so it have worse thermal conductivity. Watch 2:10 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4&feature=related
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Anyway I'll probably get round to installing the processor and network card sometime this week and post back on how I went on, fingers crossed it goes well.
EDIT: I say fingers crossed because this would be the first time I've replaced a laptop processor and network card, I've had a few laptops open to apply thermal paste and clean them out but never removed the processor (so I have seen the bowels of laptops). -
Yes you are right- you need half-height Wi-Fi card- not that you have a choice Intel 6200 is available only as half-height. It's a good choice BTW.
I bought 560M on that auction and I'm waiting for a delivery.
That's gonna be a mass-upgrade it seems. -
Hah! I've just finished assembling back my lappy
CPU works flawlessly, temps ATM the same as in 330m (max 50C on normal usage, 46 on idle), Arctic Silver 5 applied (using plastic card as recommended in AS's manual). The only one obstacle in my way - 3 pins on CPU were little misaligned. My attempt to repair it using screw driver was stressful for me as I bent one of it much more than it was before xD.
In the end, everything went well and now instead of enjoying my succes I'm figuring out whether I applied thermal compound properly... ehh xD -
The temps seem normal for an i5.
As for your wondering if you applied the paste correctly...may that doubt haunt your nightmares for years to come:wink:
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Sir Ferdek, do not worry the temperature, it is normal! The same and I (i5-540M).
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OK, looks like I did something really bad.
I'm using speedfan, Prime95 x64 and MSI Kombustor for stress-testing my CPU and GPU. GPU only stress gives me temperature of 72C. CPU only -> 80C. CPU + GPU -> it rose to 87C (CPU) and 85 GPU then suddenly Speedfan showed me 96C and GPU temperature started to fall down. Any ideas what I screwed so badly?
I'm reaching the magic 90C barrier :/ I've just installed the Turbo Boost monitor to find it out. ARGHH!!!! I did everything like in the manual, applied thin layer of thermal compund using plastic card and used some of it on heatsink to fill out the nano-rows...
I hope that it's the burning-in process of Arctic Silver but... -
96 on CPU? cpu1 and cpu2 is lower ?
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no, TEMP1 in speedfan 96C, CPU1 and CPU2 76C and CPU is in the slowest state.
just before it hits 90C and then slows down.
When playing BC2 multiplayer on high details with oc'ed GPU - max 86C CPU
So what am I supposed to do? Open the lappy once again - clean just applied compound and apply it one more time but using other method? (two-line should work fine I guess) Do I have to remove it or can I simply add more of it? -
96 is only fake in graph it was just jump from 70 to 96 and stays until other cpu temps reaches lower than 75
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EDIT: Owners of i5-540m or 560m - please help me. Try to reproduce my extreme conditions to check whether your CPU is also overheating or not.
1a) Download and install: Prime95 x64 Prime95 (64bit) - 25.11 Download - EXTREME Overclocking (or x32 if you have 32bit OS)
1b) Download and install: MSI Kombustor (in package with MSI Afterburner - http://event.msi.com/vga/afterburner/images/MSIAfterburnerSetup210.zip)
2) Overclock your GPU
3) Run MSI Kombustor from start menu in DX11 mode. Select: Anti-Aliasing 8x, unckeck fullscreen mode, resolution 1366/768, check post-FX, click GPU BURN-IN button.
4) wait for the GPU temperature to stabilize (gpu temp should be shown on the screen, if not press the G key)
5) run Prime95 and execute torture test (select "In-place large FFTs" for maximum power consumption and heat)
6) wait for your CPU to overheat :0
Let me know about the results. I simply hope it's not my fault when applying thermal compound. I don't want to disassembly everything over and over again...
TIP: You can read thermal status from EC using RW-Everything.
90x02 byte = 1 -> overheating
90x02 byte = 0 -> normal
Quickly! To the Laboratory! -
90x02 byte = 1 -> overheating
90x02 byte = 0 -> normal
where you read this ? -
If only I knew how to read those values using C++ language I could write a program that would raise an alarm sound in case of overheating (AH-HA-HA! AH-HA-HA! HA-HA!). -
I just reapply the thermal compound of my i7-620m and the temps go little down, but the fan still doesn't stop. If somebody want to exchange i7-620m or i7-720qm for i5-540m (560m) just write me
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One or two pages back I write how I apply the thermal compound.
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still... http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/468091-acer-aspire-5740g-owners-lounge-395.html#post7737589
Acer Aspire 5740G Owners Lounge
Discussion in 'Acer' started by downloads, Mar 16, 2010.