Acer Aspire 5740G Owners Lounge

Nothing that's on normal partitions is needed so as long as you keep the recovery partition you are going to be able to recover to the 640GB drive.

 

The ALT+F10 (D2D recovery) is it a Bios / Hardware Capability or it is supported by a Bootloader being on the C: / visible part of the Drive?

What about the 100MB of the System Reserved Partition will they be created again if i erase the specific partition (assuming that i will never touch the hidden acer recovery partition). regards

 

To be honest I don't remember where is it written- was it bootloader or something else but you can format C driver and you'll still be able to use eRecovery. As for 100MB partition it's created by Windows and you can remove it too- it's gonna get re-created.

 

Hi.

Quick question: How do i delete everything on recovery partition and add it to my main partition?

I need more room and i have windows 7 dvd + all the latest drivers on SD card.

Edit: oh and is it possible to do without having to reformat whole drive?

 

i still have problem with microphone, can somebody test mic in 5740g? very bad quality and very quite

 

In my laptop the mic quality is the same as You say. Very quiet and when I boost it up the quality is getting very worst. I thing this can be fixed with replacing the mic with another one better than this one. It's easy to replace it.

 

SO GUYS. Been away from the thread for a while. No new news, so why bother. Until I seen 5740g pll code supported by Setfsb (Yes I had to pay $10) so I dealt with him for a deal, kinda took more effort than it should but he was quick to respond to my problems (2 hours total), anyway. My 5740g has the I5-430m @ 2.53ghz and the 5650m @ 550/750mhz.

And since we all know the gpu OC's well in these but the CPU is being more stubborn. The FSB will only go up a little bit, but it helps, working the highest setting I can. Only at 2.635ghz. Any tips or tricks about OC'ing with this program or tips in general?

CPU-Z Validator 3.1 My best so far.

 

@Pohmell

You can delete recovery partition but that's something like 12GB so it's not gonna help you a lot.
You'd be better off with 1TB drive- not only would it be faster (even 5400rpm 1TB drive will be faster than 500GB 5400rpm drive due to higher density) but it would also solve your capacity problem.
If you can't delete the partition as it is you'll have to change its flag to make it visible and then delete it like a normal partition.

 

Just thought I might give something back to the gamers on this essential thread from my tedious learning. Beyond this point I would feel like a thief for not sharing. Okay.

1) Forget AMD GPU clock tool. It causes hard locking in punkbuster enables games, at least it does in BFBC2. Instal MSI Afterburner and open "MSIAfterburner.cfg" in notepad and have it read as:

[ATIADLHAL]
UnofficialOverclockingEULA = I confirm that I am aware of unofficial overclocking limitations and fully understand that MSI will not provide me any support on it
UnofficialOverclockingMode = 1
AccessibilityCheckingPeriod = 0

Now you can overclock the GPU but first rename "RTCore.cfg" to something else. I use "RTCore.cfg(name)". There is a memory access issue (regurgitated strait from the internet) that causes punkbuster to lock up. I've been playing BFBC2 for a few hours now with no problems with a 650mhz core and a 950mhz memory clock. Previously I would rarely finish a single match while overclocking without nasty hard-locking. It was a deal-breaker.

2) Get rid of turboboost. With turboboost enabled in about five minutes of gameplay I would have a core#0 at 95c+ and core#2 at 85c+. I had previously reapplied thermal paste three times. When I last checked the temps were both mid 70s during game. After running BOTH a Prime95 torture test and a Furmark burn-in test (at 650/950) for a half hour the temps for CPU#0, CPU#2, and GPU were 80c/73c/72c respectivly. Awesome right? Besides, turboboost works against smooth gameplay when, heat and CPU/GPU load permitting, you are constantly being throttled 250MHz, (almost) like a lid on a boiling pot. 2.25GHz is enough to open that word document!

So go into [control panel > system and security > power options > change plan settings > change advanced power settings] under whatever plan you (should already) have set up. Under "processor power management" select a minimum processor state of 99% while plugged in and maximum state of 99% while plugged in. No more turbo boost. Alternatively, it seems you can just stop and disable turboboost in the services.msc tab. Well then.


Side note: D3Doverrider is awesome for some (not all) games. It's essentially a performance hit free VSYNC option and I have no idea how it works. The cursor is a bit more sluggish, but it is perfect for 3rd person games like Just Cause 2. You will find it in "Rivatuner Statistics server". Google is your friend.

(edit: props to the people who kept this thread going, and Downloads for being the glue keeping it together, and thank you for the AMD GPU clock tool. It served me well in many games)

 

Sorry but I'm not seeing any sectors in that image needing reallocating. it has zero sectors showing as already reallocated, so even though there is a pretty high read error rate, it looks like they were all correctable. Now it's true the BEVT series drives are only rated for 600,000 head load / unload cycles, and we're 50% or so past that. But the failure rate due to high load unload is at most a prediction. I've yet to see anything that correlates a high load / unload count to drive failure. Me personally i'd replace it with a 750G 7200RPM drive or something like that and put in an old external case and use it to hold tv shows or something. but I don't think it's "nearly dead" by looking at the smart display.

From the previous poster's description it sounds more like some process like a windows indexer or virus scanner is running and he gets it to stop at least for a while when he reboots.

Hard to say though, we really don't have enough information to be sure.

 

The absolute easiest way to do this is with Gparted running on a live Ubuntu or other linux distro USB key. It can resize or delete partitions without having to format the drive. It's point and click and easy to use. It'll probably take more time to dl a linux iso and make a USB key than to resize the partition. Download Ubuntu After booting go to System->Administration->GParted Partition Editor. Note that you can easily blow away your whole install with a partitioning / resizing tool like this, so take your time.

(Edit: Oops, sorry for the sequential posts, I went away to get a soda and forgot I'd posted in this thread a few minutes ago. Feel free to merge them if you want.)

 

What thermal paste did you use? ICD7? AS5? I also has reapplied thermal paste countless time & got the same problem (I have completely different laptop). One fact that I always forgot is some thermal paste, e.g. ICD7, required enough pressure to perform best. Try Shin-Etsu thermal paste if you haven't yet.

 

@randompoint

your right about the turbo boost....no matter what i tried i couldnt get fifa 11 to run smoothly for me. i could only bring it at 90% best. but uninstalling turbo boost really did solve the issue.i will try the afterburner thing l8er.

really helpful info

 

@Sxooter

About the HDD SMART status- the drive shows 3 pending sectors- these are sectors pending reallocation.
As for load/unload count it's an indication of a mechanical failure and it wouldn't be the first drive that went belly up that I've seen.

@randompoint & garfieldncheese

While I don't have TurboBoost installed (as in any Intel driver and monitor) I use it to full extent and it worked fine on my old Core i5 430M and new Core i5 560M (TurboBoost up to 2.9GHz with all cores under load)

 

Ahh, knew there was something in there I was missing. My WD same model drive was up to 270k load / unload cycles before I added the line:

hdparm -B 254 /dev/sda

to my /etc/rc.local (I run linux mostly) and the count stopped going up, with the added bonus that I no longer get that stupid pausing behaviour load / unload induces.

 

@ downloads.

what do you mean? how did you use it without drivers (turbo boost)?


edit: by the way i don't have any problems with core temperatures. max is 83 degrees. its just the driver which causes some micro stuttering in games like fifa. even street fighter is much more fluid and smoother with no turbo boost

 

TurboBoost doesn't require drivers- it's a hardware feature that needs to be enabled in BIOS. Drivers are needed only for this monitoring tool and widget that Intel provides.
You can check your CPU speed under load- it's still going to show TurboBoost speed.

 

ok then i guess the driver was the culprit then??

 

There was something wrong with it- Intel pulled it of their website at one time.
I don't know what was the problem though.

 

how much better a gpu is the gt540m than ati 5650m??

 

The difference is almost negligible.
Using notebookcheck's game benchmarks as reference:
Details high, fps presented as GT540M/5650

Dirt 3 35/36
Crysis 2 27/26
Call of Duty Black Ops 44/40
Mafia 2 33/32
Metro 2033 17/15
BF BC2 31/30

There are games optimized for nVidia or AMD which tip the scale heavily in one direction (Farcry 2 66/44 for nVidia but Sims 3 57/132 for AMD)

All in all the difference is negligible especially that GT540M is paired with SB CPUs while most HD5650 were sold with Arrandales which didn't help.

 

A few more words to add to above post:
AMD GPU's are a way more efficient in complex mathematical computations (CUDA for NVIDIA / OpenCL for both). I still can't understand why Nvidia (in opposition to AMD) bothered to advertise their "funtastic" CUDA technology when their hardware is a crap in this kind of applications...

Anyway - barely visible difference in games

 

Given how many machines are throttling their SB core i3 and i5 chips I'd take the older arrandale in a machine that doesn't overheat and throttle any day. And the list of throttling SB machines is rather large.

 

hope arkham city runs well. (fingers crossed)

 

Uhh hi again.

I left my laptop to hibernate for the night like i've done many nights before. But this time it didn't wake up. Well it did show activity but nothing more than black screen.

So i force shutdown and booted it back up. Worked fine and everything went smooth... until it compleatly stopped responding. I happened to have task manager running and i could see how all 4 threads stopped activity. They were all stuck on 0%. Dispite the fact i opened firefox, Google chrome, some word documents and so on.

Usually it handles this multithreading with ease but now it gets stuck on every boot after about 2 minutes of running.

This is first time i'm encountering something like this and i don't know where do start looking for the problem.

Now i'm in safe mode with networking and it seems fine here.

Last program i installed was Gta 4 that i remember.

UPDATE: now i get this each time i boot up my computer

I'm thinking of reformating...

 

If you don't have any important data to lose, reformat would be 'the simplest' solution. I'm going to google a little bit...
Do you remember what was the last application/driver you ran before symptomps appeared? Any suspected ones, ideas?

EDIT: Backup important data. If you can, check HardDrive in another computer if it's allright.

E2: Also, minidump file would be useful

 

I have a query. the quiet hdd software. how is it supposed to be used? all u have to do is right click on it and select "disable HDD apm now" right??

 

I think so. APM is i.a. responsible for positioning head in safe position (called "head parking") which by default is set for maximum power management. Windows overwrites these settings with lower values, but linux not, that's why so many ppl complain.

To put it in a nutshell: click that option and load/unload cycle should stop rising. Also HDD will stop clicking

 

Can anyone help me figure out how to make this computer wake up over lan??

I have a broadcom wireless device but the "allow this device to wake the computer" is grayed out. The only drivers I can find are on the acer's site, but I have those.

 

It's disabled due to power saving in laptop and there is no way you can enable that. WoWLAN in laptops is a bad idea. The wireless card needs at least some voltage to recieve the 'magic packet', in this case it should be running on full power which implies that computer is turned on . That's why you are unable enable it. In addition there are only a few cards that support WoWLAN

WoL is very different matter.

 

Since the last 2 days i have been having a very peculiar problem. whenever i switch on my laptop it makes a continuous beeping sound (like the sound when power cord is plugged or removed). -beepp-beep-beep-beep-etc for atleast 10-15 seconds. then when it goes to the windows logon screen, the password bar is filled with charcters as if some key is being continuously held down. but wierd thing is that i checked out notepad and alll keys are functioning except the numpad + key which is just above the numpad enter key. can someone hold the numpad + key while booting just to see if he gets the same beeping sound??

 

nope, holding [+] doesn't make it happen. There must be another "locked" key. Try to power on with keyboard disconnected (you know how )

 

you mean i have to open it up??

 

If I'm not mistaken you should be able to remove the keyboard just by removing the panel on top of it (the one with P-button and speakers).
I don't think any more disassembly is needed.

 

by WoL you mean with an actual connection like ethernet? Wish I could do that, but the router is 40' and two rooms away.

 

Yes

First of all you need to have WoWLAN enabled card. If you do, look there -> Configure Wake on Wireless LAN (WoWLAN)

If you don't, there are two solutions: 1) buy proper WLAN card or 2) buy cheap router that supports waking up computers in LAN (I recommend one that runs open-source firmware like D-LINK DIR-300 rev. B1), build a wireless bridge and connect your laptop using ethernet. I see no other solutions ATM.

 

Yes, that's it.

 

Hey guys, I have been having some troubles with my aspire lagging badly lately which I can only assume is from the huge amount of crap I download over the past year. So I have been looking at new hds and it seems that I can get a 7200 pretty cheap and 2 x 4gb ram sticks. The plan I have is to backup the files I want and then just put a new hd in and start with a fresh install (lazy way out I guess).

The laptop doesn't really get much game use anymore, just lightroom/photoshop and general internet browsing. Is this a good move? Will it be relativity easy to install the new drive, ram and windows without a hick-up or should I get a professional to do such a thing?

These are the drives I've been looking at Umart Computer Notebook&PC Parts - Umart Online® Your one stop Computer Shop for computer parts,notebook and new system

and the ram Umart Computer Notebook&PC Parts - Umart Online® Your one stop Computer Shop for computer parts,notebook and new system

what am I looking for to make them compatible?

I will continue reading this massive thread but hope to hear from someone soon!

Thanks!

 

Hi and welcome to NBR.

Direct links don't work from this website so I don't really know what items you're talking about.

As for the memory SO-DIMM DDR3 is OK- both 1066MHz and 1333MHz (although the latter will work @ 1066MHz anyway).

As for HDD- any SATA 2.5" will do- I won't get into recommending drivers here as it mat get pretty boring - I'd rather see what was in that link of yours first.

Last but not least- installing RAM and HDD is very easy- 15 min tops and there's no need for outside help- you'll be able to do it on your own even if you've never done that before.

 

there are very good chances you will have performance improvement (or better... a return to original performance) simply by restoring/reinstalling from the scratch the OS.

performance improvement obtainted by upgrading hard disk to a 7200rpm one are noticeable but far from astounding and very few apps will take benefits from an additional 4gb ram.

 

Hi all,

I'm having a couple of strange issues with my 5740g.

First off I'm getting loud screeching, almost super fast audio loops that seem to freeze up the whole pc on random occasions. After about a second at most they are gone and everything carries on as normal. They make a really awful sound though especially when playing music.

I've updated my audio drivers to the latest on the support site, and tried everything I can think of, including bios update to 1.22. Still happening on occasion, its hard to predict when it will occur, but usually happens more often when playing music in Spotify.

Secondly, and perhaps more worryingly is the temperature that my laptop is running at. I've been idling for about an hour now and the CPU is sitting at 75 degrees with the GPU at 80. Playing games these spike up to high 80s and low 90s respectively. The laptop is sat on a pile of books, so is elevated and doesn't have anything blocking its ports.

I'm going to give it a clean out as soon as I can get some compressed air, and I guess I could reapply heatsink glue, but I was wondering if anyone else had experienced similar problems in the past? I have read all of this thread (yes, all of it), and noticed that Puhpuhan4o experienced similar issues earlier but never came back with a solution.

Any help would be great.

 

Hello,

It's been a long time since last time I posted here.
My Hitachi HDD is making some noise from time to time (not to often, maybe once a week I hear a loud *CLICK* that scares the out of me), so I used some diagnostic tools and I had the following results:



Do you think it could die soon?

I'm flying in two days to Kraków (Poland) to stay there for a year (or maybe a lifetime, who knows), and I would like to solve this situation before departing.

If it is a sign that it may die soon, I'd have to buy another one now!

Thanks, gracias, dzięki!

 

Issues with wifi, I've been recently d/cing a bunch at home and experiencing huge ping issues. It's no problem at school, where the wifi works fine, but at home, especially in the evening, I just keep d/cing and reconnecting and having ping issues. And it's just me; everyone else in the house is fine, and my iPhone is fine also. Might it be because there's too many computers and devices connecting to the router? Someone help please!

 

@CaraMuuu

Please post the rest of SMART status- only the upper part is visible on the screenshot (which looks OK) but there are important parameters near the bottom too.

@eraddd

Assuming your card is Atheros please test these drivers Atheros 9.2.0.439

 

I think that 61% on health status is caused only by spin up time. Anyway, the complete log:

 

SMART status is perfectly fine including spin-up value.
The only thing that's a bit higher than is usually is for this particular HDD is load/unload value- that said it's still well within limits.

So there's nothing in SMART status that would indicate possible issues but- as always- you should have a backup- drives fail, notebooks get stolen and so on.

 

Thanks, downloads!
So I don't get why diagnostic tools tell me the health status is 61% instead of 100% but... who cares!

 

What does everyone's processor's power idle at? I have an i5-520m in the acer that won't go below 6.63w.

I have a lenovo with a pentium p6200 that idles at 2.xxW.

Both systems have processor min set to 0%.

I am reading these numbers from CPUID Hardwaremonitor.

 

Mine shows 7.2W for Core i5 560M although it's what Everest shows- HWMonitor shows no such value at all on my system

 

Hello , I have this laptop for about 20 months and I would be very obliged to you if you could help me with some issues.

First , and most important, the last 3 months after an hour of use the touchpad becomes hot. So last week I installed a program (core temp) to monitor the temprature of the system .According to it ,the maximum temperature of the two cores was about 80 Celcium degrees. Since it appeared to me rather high I tried to clean the vents with compressed air .After that the temperature has dropped about 10 Celcium deggres that is now it does not rises higher than 70 but still I think is rather high.
To give you some clues about the way I am using the laptop : I work on it about 6-8 hours a day ,mostly browse through the web and simultaneously use the media player to listen to music .Also I dont play any games and all this time I havent made a format (the free space on the hard drive is rather sparse ,about 15 GB).
So , do you think that these temperatures are normal and if not what do you recomend me to do.

The other thing I would like to ask you is whether it is possible the dvd-rom of the laptop to recognize dvd-roms of capacity of 4,7 GB ( when it sees them as though they had capacity of 4,3 GB)


Thanks in advance for your help.


Philipos , Greece