Acer Aspire TimelineX 4820TG Owners Lounge

Hey Guys, I'm thinking of changing my Atheros AR5B93. the reason is that sometimes when I reset the router all my mates laptops, which are 5, connect straight away but I have to reinstall the drivers every time! They are Compaq, Dell Studio 15 x2, Toshiba, Lenovo. Even my HTC Desire has no issues at all!

Any Idea if the Bluetooth is in the wifi card as well?
has anyone tried fitting an Intel card or Broadcom that supports 5Ghz mode?

Thank you very much in advance, any ideas appreciated

 

Have you tried uninstalling and re installing the latest driver from other websites?
Try station-drivers.

 

first it was with the drivers from ACer's support page, then I tried the newest ones from atheros.cz but still the same :X

for now I'll try downgrading one version at a time with some testing

 

Yes. Tried Intel 6200 on my TimelineX and a friend bought an Intel 6200 for his also. Both work flawlessly and much better than the stock Broadcom card.

My TimelineX came with bluetooth and it is not included on the wifi card. There is a separate bluetooth board attached to the motherboard. You have to disassemble the entire thing to access and remove bluetooth.

 

Did you mean that the Wireless Card cannot be detected or the Wireless Interface could not come up after you reset router settings?

 

I imagine that was an easy upgrade. What kind of speed and range boosts did you get?

 

no no, the card is fine, it's just that it tries to reconnect to the network, but with no success. something like a constant loop of reconnecting and disconnecting
i guess im gonna go for Intel 6200 ))

 

I think the card is actually fine.
It is probably a Wireless Software issue.
You can try removing the stored (cached) Wireless Network then try to reconnect and check the other Windows Wireless Settings as well.

 

Post deleted. Sorry guys. wrong thread.

 

yeah I think the card is fine, I just didn't think that the problem is the router, but I guess it is!!! im in UK and got a new Virgin Media Super Hub (which is CRAP!!!). A technician is coming tomorrow to hopefully swap it with a better one, working one

still I think I might buy the Intel 6200 cos it's dual band, I'd like to have 5 Ghz mode as well not only 2.4 Ghz ))

 

Speeds are comparable to the Intel 5100 in my Dell. With a Linksys E2000, I can get around 150Mbps to 300Mbps on the 5GHz band. The 2.4GHz band has more interference and stays at or below 150Mbps. On good days, the stock broadcom card would always be lower than 100Mbps. On bad days, it would randomly disconnect and require reboots to reconnect.

 

Take a trip over the networking forum and search for dd-wrt. There are a lot of good $40 or so routers that can run dd-wrt well, and quite a few in the $70 to $90 range that have great tx power, fast CPUs, dual band (2.4 and 5GHz) and gig switches and NAS capability and all those fun tricks.

I got a Netgear WNR3500L and put dd-wrt on it and it's a freaking stallion...

 

why would the 4820tg-6857 mainboard downclock the ram to 1066mhz if the stock ram is a kingston 1333mhz?

 

Because 1066MHz is the speed supported by the i5 and i7 CPUs that it uses. See this:

i5 arrandale

 

oh, that's sad =/
i just bought a new 1333 mem after checking that the stock was 1333 too.
now i got a spare 8gb mem

 

You can always mail them to me for freeeeeeee

@ddwrt conversation above: Yes, DDWRT is awesome. Gives your router a ton more functionality and capability. Make sure you get a router that supports it though.

 

Well, how's everyone's battery life? With me being in class for the full day (8am to 2-3pm) I still have about 2 hours of battery life left over. So all in all about 8+ hours with wireless on and off throughout the day and going in and out of sleep.

I'm loving the battery (well the notebook as a whole)...anybody else getting good results?

 

I have spent the last couple days configuring my new 4820TG. I am extremely happy with it overall. It is fast, I don't find any real issues except for one.
During the process of 'shaving off' the bloat from the drive I may have corrupted the Bluetooth.
When I hit Fn+F3 all I get is the usual 'wireless' symbol, either OFF or ON. There is no selector switch for Wireless or Bluetooth.
My program menu says I have the W7 64 bit Bluetooth Suite, but when I click on any of the options, nothing happens, except for the Atheros user guide which does open up.
I have reinstalled drivers for BT from both the Acer site, and the ones that show up on the Acer Recovery program. They reinstall, etc. but still I don't get the BT switch box or any other indication it is working.
Any ideas would be appreciated. I hate to have to recover my machine back to the first day, but I could do that. I would only lose time. And even then not sure that woud fix it. BTW, the BT driver does show up under the Device Mgr. also.

 

Hey, as my 4820TG is now defunct having been somehow completely screwed up by the repair guys, and I'm going to get vouchers for a replacement - what is there around at the moment that compares, as I see that the 4820TG is pretty much out of stock in the UK now?

 

Enable back the Launch Manager...

 

Reinstalling LM did not help. I noticed BT services is on Automatic in Mgt. Services. Is there anything else that should be on/enabled?

 

Are you sure you even have Bluetooth? A lot of the new 4820TGs don't have Bluetooth.

 

Hopefully 4830TG will be available soon, grab one of that.

EDIT: If you really want the 4820TG, look here http://www.simplyacer.com/Acer_Aspire_TimelineX_4820TG_966962.html

 

I thought the same thing.. and I could live with that. But why would the full 64bit suite be installed?
If I hit 'find device' a window opens and it waits to discover my cell phone, etc. but nothing happens.
Possible there is no hardware but the device is listed as functional.
I did write Acer about it, so we will see if it was left out of my configuration.
Maybe I only have to install the board..but it seems Launch Mgr would still show if when I do Fn + F3.

If there is no sticker on the bottom of the notebook indicating BT is installed then it is not. I don't have such a sticker.
Fast response from Acer..!
Well, I asked them if the hardware can be installed since the software suite is. I suspect the answer will be no because the board configuration is different. I know it is not unusual to have more software than the hardware to support it rather than tailor software for every configuration (and there are several). At least now I know it is isn't defective!

 

I tried replacing the built in Atheros wifi card (which is absolutely horrible) with an Intel 5100. Bluescreened every time it tried to activate with "IRQL not less or equal." Does the 4820 have a bios whitelist of compatible cards?

 

Did you uninstall the old driver before putting in the new card?
If Acer actually whitelist WiFi (in fact they don't) it wouldn't pass POST.
BSOD indicates driver error.

 

I wiped the drive clean and was doing a clean install. Windows didn't have any other driver to confuse it with.

 

Is the card a legit Card or is it a Engineering Sample or damaged?
There are some Intel Eng sample WiFi Cards around should be careful.
Anyway it still stands that WhiteListing occurs during POSTing.
If it is whitelisted during POSTing it will halt and error.
If it manages to start loading the Windows Kernel it is either driver or hardware damage.

 

new bios available on acer support

v.1.23

Updates Fan init after BIOS detect down device to avoid fan turns fixed speed after exit ESCD operattion. 2. Adds support new LiteOn CCD (Vid:0x058F).

 

I had an inquiry, as a new 4820GT owner regarding the switchable graphics:

So everytime I plug in my AC adapter, the graphics switch. I have noticed that if the laptop has gone into hibernation because the battery died or it went to sleep and I plug it in, the moment it comes back on, it will try to switch graphics and 50% of the time will cause a bluescreen. If the laptop is already on and I am using it and I plug it in, it will switch without issues.

Anyone know how to avoid it from switching graphics automatically and rather have me switch it myself when I plug in the AC adapter? I much rather have myself control it, considering sometimes the switch will caused the laptop to crash when waking up.

 

hey!
so, anyone that doesnt have the graphic switching automatically (meaning that appears the dialog box when you connect the AC) can tell me what you have in register in the key:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\ATI\ACE\Settings\Graphics\PowerXpress\AutoSwitchingFeature

cause i DONT want it to change automatically on ac, i dont know how to turn it off =s

 

Dude, use search?
Disable Autoswitching. However, that may not work because the driver is buggy. Therefore, use this: 3820tgTray. As long as that program is running, you can safely plug-in/unplug the AC cable without Autoswitch.

Works even with Standby and Hibernate.

 

Just to let everyone know, the experiment with a 1600x900 screen has failed.

The 40 pin cable fit (although I'd have to extend / reroute it to make it work long term)
The OS (windows 7 AND Ubuntu) detects it as a 1600x900 screen.
But, it only seems to be driving every other pixel, with half the pixels being black. Sigh.

Any suggestions from anyone I'm willing to take, otherwise I'll just sell the display on ebay.
Display was this: 14.0-inch LG LP140WD1-TLA1 Laptop LCD Screen 1600x900 LED Glossy - US$87.00 | HooToo.com

 

Can you please upload a photo of the screen? I want to see how "drawing every other pixel" looks like. I am thinking of doing this mod on my 3820TG.

I am pretty sure you have to mod the BIOS to enable this resolution. It might be either the BIOS itself (which I am fairly certain) or graphics BIOSes.

On another forum, I have seen someone dissasemble 4820 Insyde BIOS and there was an option to change what resolution to default to. If you can find someone who can mod your BIOS (and enable 1600x900 resolution), then I am pretty sure your screen will work.

Here are some of the threads you might find useful:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/sony/473226-insyde-hacking-new-vaio-z-advanced-menu-bios.html
http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/541716-acer-5742g-bios-modding.html

UPDATE: I found where to change default panel resolution! This is from the Sony BIOS hacking thread above. Found what I was looking for in this post. If you click on VPC-Z11 EFI - Pastebin.com and scroll to the middle you will find this:

Code:

.......
 One Of [0xf7<1>] 'IGD - LCD Panel Type'
    \Help text: 'Select the Panel used by the Internal Graphics Device by selecting the appropriate setup item'
     Option '640x480 LVDS' = 0x1 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
     Option '800x600 LVDS' = 0x2 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
     Option '1024x768 LVDS' = 0x3 Flags [COLOR="Red"]0x1[/COLOR] Key 0x0
     Option '1280x1024 LVDS' = 0x4 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
     Option '1400x1050 LVDS1' = 0x5 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
     Option '1400x1050 LVDS2' = 0x6 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
     Option '1600x1200 LVDS' = 0x7 Flags 0x0 Key 0x0
    End One Of
.....

Perhaps, you have similar option in your BIOS and you can enable 1600x900?

I think, the best option would be to Google and find a thread (maybe even here on NBR) where you can ask someone to mod your BIOS or ask for help with modding it yourself. I am sure someone has done this before.

Without doing proper research, from what I can tell:
1. If it is in Insyde BIOS itself, then you will need to decompile/dissasemble, enable the options you need, put it back together and flash.
2. You will need to look for video BIOS modding tools and mod both Intel and ATI graphics BIOSes. I have seen ATI BIOS mod tool, but I am not sure if it is capable of changing resolution support. I think there is also Intel BIOS mod tool, but this is just a speculation.

Anyway, I hope you will have the energy to pineer on this one There are many people who want to swap their screens...

NOTE: 4820 and 5820 have Insyde BIOS. 3820 has Phoenix BIOS

 

I'll take a look. I had it just laying against the lid while testing it. My machine is now back together. I'll take a look at the bios modding threads and see what I can find there.

 

Does anyone know what the signs are of a bad video card? I am having an issue in a game called Rift that has just started today. See the attached screenshot.

Any ideas?

http://goo.gl/QVnE6

 

I'm getting something similar in Section 8, but it seems to have gone away. It started after I changed graphics settings in the game from high to medium and stayed when I went back to high, but then a few days ago it went away after an update. I'd tend to guess it's a bug in the game, not the GPU, unless stuff like that keeps showing up in other games.

 

Well I opened my 4820TG 6847(core i5 480m) because I was unhappy with the temperatures, so I replaced the cheap stock thermal compound with Arctic Silver 5 and, well unknowningly, removed the thermal pad from the gpu and tossed it out and replaced it with arctic silver 5...the pad had the consistency of thermal paste and thought it was just that. Now after that, the GPU spikes up close to 100c when playing Crysis 2 MP demo on Hardcore graphics with 700/1000 clocks on the 6550m gpu, and I used to maintain at 90c maximum. So I'm thinking about opening it up again and apply more thermal compound or find and place a copper shim in there.

Does anyone know where I can find the perfect copper shim for the gpu?
And also is there better thermal compound for this sort of thing? And can a copper shim be used for the cpu as well?


And also, I damaged what looked like a power wire, the socket of which was placed near the card reader. what was it?

This is my first experience opening a laptop like this so yeah, I f'ed up and probably voided warranty, but everything seems to work fine, and the cpu temperatures have dropped about 5c, but GPU temps is the problem.

 

well, do i have to change some setting?
cause i have made both and it is still switching by itself. its a 4820tg-6847.

yeah, i have tried setting some profiles and stuff, but it is still autoswitching =s

update: i think that's something else that is changing the gpu, i dont know what. i have restored the factory settings on catalyst and, now, it shows a dialog window asking if i want to change. even answering NO, after about 10 seconds, the gpu is changed.

 

Get 0.7mm copper shim stock and you should be ok. You might want to buy it in a size or two up or down. Any hobby store should carry it.

 

TO Plancy

I did the same thing, removing the thermal pad. But you should be fine without as long as when you apply the thermal paste you use the dot method. Just leave a little blot in the center but make sure it'll be high enough to touch the heatsink when you put it back on. A good 3-4 mm should be enough.

 

Could it be, that the display is using 2 LVDS Channels and the Acer only supports one?

On the tech spec. for 2 channel LVDS is written, that the channel one is driving the odd lines and the second the even lines.

 

Please keep the dual-LVDS/1600x900 discussion in a separate thread that Sxooter created.
At the moment everything has been either written or quoted in both threads.

 

Sorry, I haven't seen the thread.

 

I'll try that, do you get better temps than stock?

Cool, thanks, I would have to cut it down to size right?
And can one be placed on the cpu? I want to have optimal temperatures, and only to only open the laptop once more this month.

From what I've read, I apply thermal compound on the gpu, position the shim and apply the compound over the shim?
Should I sand the shim down a little bit or soak it in a solution to remove coating?

 

This is a very bad idea if the heat sink doesn't make direct physical contact with the GPU. You have to have direct physical contact to get good thermal transfer. Put a shim in it.

There's no need for one on the CPU since the heatsink comes into direct contact with the CPU. It's the gap on the GPU that's the issue. Yeah, sanding it a bit to get off any plastic or clear coat is a good idea. and yes, thermal compound on both sides.

 

Okay thanks, then I'll probably get a good thickness and size. Covering the surface area(cutting the copper shim down to this size) of the GPU die a good rule of thumb?

 

Don't use a copper or something else. Buy a new good thermal pad. The problem with the copper is, that it will move away and not fitting on the place, if you put the laptop in a bag or something else.

The two layers of thermal paste have the same function as lubricant.

 

My AS5 paste seems to be slightly adhesive and not lubricating but under CPU/GPU temperatures will that change? I'll see what I can find at RadioShack or Hobby Lobby, also need an anti static mat/wrist thing and a multi-welled tray for screws.

 

You can try it, but the pad is the safe way.

Good luck.