Acer TimelineX 3820TG Backlit keyboard mod

The cheaper options are more rare now certainly! To help I'd suggest broadening your ebay search terms beyond "3810t backlit".

raulilha posted some keyboard model numbers that can get you started searching on ebay and Google shopping. Add KB.I140A.031 to raulilha's list. Not every keyboard that has those specific model numbers is the backlit keyboard you are after though of course.

Also it turns out the same backlit keyboard is used in a buncha Acer machines. So you can also search for other Acer models that use the same backlit keyboard.

I'm probably missing a few but here is that info copy-pastaed from various sources:

3810T, 3935, 4810T, 4535G, 4735, 4935, 4736G, 4736Z, 4535G, 5920, 5940, 5940G, 5935G, 5942G.

All use the same model backlit keyboard.

Just via a quick search with that info above I see a few choices on ebay from Canadian ebayers around $45? One on Amazon for $35 shipped. Also some perhaps questionable retailers on Google shopping have the same keyboards around $25.

But you'll have to do the legwork finding out if you should order from them!

 

I replaced my NON-LIT FR keyboard quickly with a NON-LIT Standard US one thx to Hendrickson's, Bronsky's, jerg's, others' great advices. Resuming their NON-LIT parts (of course much shorter):

Hendrickson's original post shows a number of useful photos. Be careful with the ribbon cable, which is fragile and touchy, particularly when reinserting it and pushing the 2 black plastic clips on the connector back downwards. Total time for your 1st time may be a little longer than the alleged 32 seconds suggested by jerg and some others (which may be right however for one's 2nd or 3rd time).

Versailles, Thu 07 Jul 2011 17:00:00 +0200

 

I'd like to know your proceeding in switching to the quadcore.. Does it run properly in the 3820?

regards..

 

I'd like to put a 720qm too. Do you guys know if it's easy to sell the i5-480m?

 

I would wait until someone has successfully done this before I sold anything.

Bronsky

 

Yeah I'm waiting dseriewow's answer to jahnh before considering this upgrade =)

 

I concur. The 3820TG relies primarily, for display, on the graphics integrated in the dual-core Arrandale CPU (as the i5-480M). The (older) quad-core Clarksfield CPUs (as the i7-720QM) have no graphics at all, which may cause some limitations at use (the 3820TG-484G75nks will run permanently its Radeon HD6550M, and its Clarksfield with its 4 cores in 45nm will also consume more), and even more at install (the install probably relies, in some of its stages, on the integrated graphics). See Intel comparison of i7-720QM, i5-480M, i5-2410M, i7-2630QM (I added the most frequent Sandy Bridge CPUs in 3830TG (i5-2410M) and in powerful gamer notebooks (i7-2630QM) ).

So, I know this mod (adding a Quad-core Clarksfield in a 3820TG) has been done, yet it must be tricky, so better have a couple of positive user (and modder!) experience before plunging.

Versailles, Sat 09 Jul 2011 11:08:00 +0200

 

Anybody here UK based who is willing to do this backlit keyboard mod for me?

For a fee of course.

The only thing that annoys me about the 3820 is the lack of a backlight.

 

You guys rock for making this thread! I'm contemplating doing this mod, but have a few things to add, to clear up some things.

It doesn't (I have a 3810T). To my knowledge the 3810 series never had the capability for a backlight function on the keyboard. What this means is that all of the keyboards on Ebay are mislabeled. They will fit in a 3810, the ribbon cable will work, but there is no inbuilt socket for the backlight power. Modding is required.

There isn't. Like you guys have been saying, the options on the 3810 are to use the USB power, the BT power, or another power source (like the 5V solder points found by another user in this thread).

BT power IS possible for sure. I have added BT to my 3810.
Also, there is an extra internal SATA slot for a half-slim SSD (veeeery hard to find. I ordered one from mydigitaldiscount.com...waiting for it. Avoid transcend half-slim at all costs. No cache, and stuttres. Worse performance than platter HDD)
There is also an extra internal mini-PCIe intended for WWAN. The connection of the miniPCI to a simcard slot (behind battery, covered by tape) is also built in. You just have to add the card and the antennas to get WWAN via SIMcard.

Unfortunately, it's not really a 3810 keyboard, because no 3810 ever had a backlight function built into to the stock keyboard. The keyboard was made for some other aspire one models.

I'm going to try this mod with my 3810T, but I have a few problems you guys could help me with before I try:

1) BT power is not an option for me since I use my BT and I don't trun it on unless I actually need it. (BT does drain a lot of power)

2) I definitely want a solution that is switchable...since I don't want to use BT or WIFI, I'll probably need a hard switch. The suggestions that have been made here are great...however I don't know if the exact same procedure will work on a 3810T. Anyone know where to get an iPhone 3G switch, or another mini switch?

3) The kensignton lock is fastened to the hinge of the LCD in my laptop. I dont' think I'd beable to put a switch there, but I'm damn sure going to try. I have no idea if I'm even going to be able to remove it easily...Any ideas?

4) For quick removal, would any fan header work? I have tons of wires and connectors from cannabalized fans and the like...or do I need a specific type of wire?

5) What kind of wire should I buy to solder to the power ribbon on the backlit keyboard?

thanks a bunch guys and KUDOS to all of this hard work!!!

 

Would any of these work?

iPhone switch 1

iPhone switch 2

Iphone switch 3

 

Bluetooth in standby does not drain that much... Best example I could find:
link
This says 100mW for a standby usb bluetooth dongle (which runs at 5V so not entirely the same, but lets use it anyway ) . On the lowest possible power consumption (lcd lowest, power saving mode, no wifi, no bluetooth, rest) of 8W that is only 1.25%, which would save you 6 minutes on a 8 hour run. I think it would be ok.... plus the fact that running the backlit at 3.3V reduces the power consumption of the keyboard drastically.

 

I don't think the IPhone switches will work. I think there is some housing that the switches drop into. You would need that to take a pos and neg lead from. The switches we used are listed in the thread. I think they're still available.

I like taking power off the bottom of the USB board but, if I was starting from scratch, I would probably use the BT power to avoid altering the notebook at all. 3.3v should be plenty of power.

 

Thanks for the help Bronsky & martijn_mf

Yeah it's true, the BT mod seems like it might be the way to go. No hard switch required is definitely a huge plus. Unforutnately, my BT module uses an 8-pin cable, and thus will probably be really hard to strip one wire and grab power from, and even harder to solder anything to the relevant pins. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

There are also two potential power sources there labeled "Q23" (just to the left of the BT cable, bottom right of picture, just above the screw) and "Q13" (just above the ribbon cable on the right hand side of the board inbetween R188 and R192). These could potentially be used, but that's going to be a tough solder...

Anyone else got any ideas for something that could work without a hard switch? I suppose I could use the USB, but I don't think we've figured out a way to shut it off yet...

Also, is the backlit keyboard a matte keyboard? If it is, I'll probably just get that one so I can mod my lappy later...

 

Hey guys, I just completed this project for my 4820tg and wanted to post the pictures

switch: http://i.imgur.com/AKhKG.jpg



Thanks to this thread I was able to do everything in about 6 hours of work. The soldering to the USB 5V/ground went fine and the switch connecting/super glue went fine, and that was definitely the hardest part.
I screwed up with the keyboard though, I filed the notches way too much and they ended up not even clipping anymore. As a brute force way of getting the keyboard attached I added a little bit of solder to each notch to attempt to recreate it brute-force-like, and it worked, but I'm not happy about it. The keyboard I got off of ebay I guess was also used and the spacebar squeaks a tiny bit whenever I press on it. I think I'll buy another keyboard in the future and do it correctly this time. It looks really neat in the dark though, and it's working fine except for my minor screwups.

Oh, also, I use a keyboard protector and it touches the screen whenever I close the lid such that I can't completely close the lid. Without the keyboard protector the lid closes fine. I really need the keyboard protector though, and I don't think the screen will be damaged by the keys pushing onto it, besides leaving a little finger-oil marks on the screen. I think it will be ok.

Thanks for everyone's contributions to this thread, they helped me a lot!

 

Congratulations ... looks great.

 

You said it was an used KB, where ti find new ones? Thanks!

 

Don't really know, I guess it would be a good idea to confirm with the seller before you buy it.
The only two places I've found the backlit keyboard available is on alibaba and on ebay, and mostly the sellers are in China.

3810t Backlit Keyboard-3810t Backlit Keyboard Manufacturers, Suppliers and Exporters on Alibaba.com

3810t backlit keyboard | eBay

 

$125? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-NE...73?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item2eb2f4485d Are these sellers crazy? The most expensive KB I remember was $30. Mine is still working fine.

 

OUCH.

Anyway, i wouldn't even spend 30EUR (but 30$ ok) on a KB... 20EUR with shipment (France) is my max. Looks like i'm good to wait

Thanks for the links anyway!

Edit: i remember reading somewhere the 3820TG and 4820TG KB are identical, is that right? Thanks!

 

I think the 3820tg and 4820tg might have different FN button locations on the keyboard, but besides that they are the same. but I don't get why you would buy a 3820tg keyboard for a 4820tg or vice versa, since it offers no advantages...

On alibaba the prices are less than $20, but I have never bought through them and I heard that site is more tuned to people buying units in a bulk amount to resell them, not for individual customers, and I tried contacting two of the sellers only to get no replies, so I'm not sure if the deals are legit.

 

Im looking at 3820TG because at the time i bought mine, nobody sold BL KB for the 4820TG, but you're right, i should take a look at 4820TG now

About alibaba : forget, it's more for oem, and indeed, they never answer...

 

Hey, sorry for the bump, but im looking for the backlit board for my 7741g....
I need one with a numpad, which i thought didn't exist but then i saw this one.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ace...20tg-backlit-keyboard-mod-48.html#post7532280 Look at dseriewow's post.

If you look at his picture, he has a numbpad. Which kb is this and where can i get it? Thanks!

 

That keyboard is from an Acer Aspire 5740 (Model is ID'd on the sticker next to the KB). Here is a canadian version available on ebay. Acer Aspire 5738 5738Z 5739 5740 5740G 5741 Keyboard Clavier Canadian Backlit | eBay You should be able to fine a US version if it will fit. The display size is different, but it is not unusual for Acer to use a single keyboard for a number of different sized units. The keyboards do look similar.

 

Thanks, that looks like the correct size, but i can't seem to find a US version on ebay! Anywhere else to get it?

 

Acer parts are very hard to come-by in the US if you can't located them on Ebay. I am guessing that this KB has an OEB counterpart. I would guess that an Acer parts store might be able to give you the part # so you can search it to locate a KB. Other than that, you have to wait for one to appear on Ebay.

 

I think found one, do you think this will work?
New Acer Aspire 5738 5738G 5738Z backlit Keyboard Black | eBay

 

Since the seller gives you a 7 day satisfaction period, you can at least put it close to your unit and see if it looks like it will work. With any of these keyboards, you have to make modifications to fit them properly. At this point, you are a pioneer since no one has done this with your model notebook. Good luck with it.

 

Alright, im going to go ahead and order it. Hopefully it works with my laptop. Thanks for your help

 

Acer Aspire 7741g Backlit mod success! Powered via usb,... only problem is the light NEVER turns off, not even in sleep mode. I have to work on that.

 

so would this one work too do you think?

Acer-Aspire-8940-8940G-8942-8942G-Keyboard-Backlit-

it's made for the 18.4 inch new model, but the laptop comes with a weird lookin touch panel next to the keyboard. i don't feel goo about using a keyboard from a 15in laptop for my 17in.

 

Don't know but this one i got fits perfectly.

 

@ICrap ... did you solve your "always on" issue. Before I put a mechanical switch in my Kensington Slot, my keyboard was soldered onto the + and - terminals of one of the USB ports and would turn off when the notebook powered down. My guess is that you have to straddle the port to do this. Have you tried disabling the USB port to see if it turns off the keyboard? It would not turn off, however, in hibernation.

Nice job adapting this to your computer.

 

I got a small switch from Radio Shack but i haven't put it in yet, my plan is to fit it into the lock slot.
Also, how would i disable the USB ports? I should try that before i go and add the switch.

 

can anyone tell me the dimensions of this keyboard? thinking of trying it on and/or cannibalising it for my Ferrari One.

 

They can be software disabled. Control Panel > devices > USB Controller > right click on the USB Hub, etc. and disable. When we were all playing with our 3820TG's the temporary solution to hybernating the Backlit KB was to disable the USB ports first. See if this works.

How did you find a switch small enough at Radio Shack? I guess your notebook is somewhat larger than our Timelines. It would have been nice to have some extra room to work.

 

I tried disabling all the USB devices under device manager, but nothing happens, even when i put it in sleep mode.

And as for the switch, i just went through the bins till i found small one. it looks like it will fit fine, but i haven't opened my system back up again.

 

I ended up just installing a switch into my laptop, the switch didn't end up fitting in the lock slot so i drilled a little hole and filed it smooth... il post a pic later if anyone is interested.

 

Would love to see a few pictures.

 

Hey guys, I just wanted to let you know that if you do this mod and choose to take power from the 5V USB, I STRONGLY urge you to solder wires to the USB ports from the USB card on the right side, that is separate from the motherboard and connected to it by the ribbon cable. I discovered that the USB ports on the separate card have power surge protection and will not damage your motherboard if there is a short circuit, whereas the USB port (on the left side) that is connected directly to your motherboard WILL fry your motherboard if there is a short circuit. I am 99% certain that this is the case, as what I am stating I have learned from first hand experience. If a short circuit occurs, the USB card gets disabled by the OS and stops working for about 15 seconds until the "power surge" goes away, then it gets enabled again and everything works fine. If you do a short circuit from the motherboard's USB port, your motherboard will be ruined and your laptop will not startup anymore.

The other 1% chance is that the OS is what has the protection implemented and not the USB card. Because I believe when I fried my motherboard when I used the left USB port, I had the backlit keyboard light turned on as I was booting up the laptop, before the OS started, and that's when the short circuit occurred. Whereas when I was testing on the USB card, I had the OS loaded when I tried turning on the backlit keyboard light and it was able to disable the card and prevent damage from the power surge.

So I guess if you want to be on the same side, I recommend you solder to a USB port on the USB card, and never enable the light before the OS is started. And make sure you do a good solder job and make sure the wires wont come loose.

Also, I strongly urge you use hot glue on top of the solder in order to keep the wires in place, so that there is less of a chance of short circuit.

 

@ Hendrickson

I'm interested in doing this mod only instead for a Aspire 7750G which I planned on changing the Canadian keyboard layout to a US one anyways but since I've thought of a easy way that I can do the backlit keyboard mod on my laptop.

My laptop has two mini pcie slot, one 5mm slot is taken with the WiFi card and one free 7mm mini pcie slot. I was thinking of getting this mini pcie USB/SATA DIY card: Mini PCI-e PCI Express to SATA SSD HDD USB Adapter DIY Free Delivery | eBay which would provide the power source and grounding for the backlit keyboard. *Notice the SATA side has a 3.3v option.*

I'm thinking of getting this backlit keyboard which is for the Aspire 8940G but should fit on my 7750G: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Acer-Aspire-...92?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item3cb841fe18

I really don't want to solder onto the laptops motherboard taking power from laptops the speakers or USB slots. Since I'll be using the SATA power of the mini pcie SATA/USB card I'll still have the USB side to space which I'm thinking of adding an extra internal USB slot for my Logitech nano receiver inside the laptop which would free up a USB slot on the outside of the laptop.

What do you think, will it work?

 

This seems like a pretty hard mod to pull off... I was considering it but now I am uncertain on doing it with my 4820tg.

 

I would say that it is a moderatly hard modification, only because you have to solder onto USB port connections or the Bluetooth module. If you bought a spare bluetooth harness, you could probably do all of your soldering outside the computer and merely swap in the harness, after you added the power and ground wire for the keyboard.

I would not attempt it if you don't have reasonably proficient soldering skills. I use a Weller soldering station so I have decent control over my heat. It is not as hard, however, as a pin mod, which takes mad skills IMO.

 

People always talk about soldering skill. I just simply don't solder enough to say I am super proficient. I've only done a few small things.

 

Before I played around with anything major, I practiced on a junk circuit board by removing and replacing components. Once you learn to use enough flux and you can make the solder flow into the joint without overheating the component, you should be okay with a mod like this.

 

Does just taking a new regular keyboard and replacing the old one require any soldering or is it just plug and play?

Because my 4820tg keyboard is popping out all the time for whatever reason. I think the plastic tabs might have broke or something. Build quality isn't the best I guess.

 

Genuine Acer Aspire 4820TZG 4820T 4820TZ US Keyboard | eBay Plug and play.

 

Alright, ordered. The only thing seriously pissing me off about this laptop atm is the keyboard so I just need one that doesn't pop out. Pop tabs and replace right?

 

Pretty much.

 

I replaced the keyboard. It took literally 5 mins. I think the new keyboard I have is actually more rigid although the ctrl key stick slightly. Ah well. Hopefully it doesn't click in and out like the old one.

Time will tell.

 

Backspace key needs to be pressed hard or it doesn't work... grrr.

But it does stay in unlike the last one. It feels very nice.