Acer TimelineX 3820TG Backlit keyboard mod

1. - yes. The KB is a backlit 3810T keyboard. Search that on Ebay.

2. - I don't have that problem with my BT mouse. I get great response. What kind of mouse (wireless, etc, are you using). Have you looked for updated drivers for it? My guess would be a driver problem.

Bronsky

 

Thanks Bronsky for the quick reply! +rep

I want a backlit keyboard, but I don't have a solder and I've never soldered anything before so I probably should not risk it!

Bronsky (or anyone else) did you buy an extra warranty with your laptop?

Mine is from Staples and I didn't go for the extra warranty though they told me it would be a good idea since Acer isn't as good as HP etc for fixing things.

2. I actually have a Logitech VX Nano, great mouse, good idea on the drivers though! I will try and let you know how it goes!

 

The backlit keyboard would void your warranty anyway.

I like the extended warranty idea if you are keeping the unit stock and it doesn't cost too much.

Logitec is known for funky drivers. See if there are any updates on their site.

Bronsky

 

Stupid Question:

I too have a bilingual keyboard on my 3820, and would like a US keyboard for the larger left shift key, and the "regular" enter key. Will the 3810 keyboard work without doing the light mod?

Thanks,

JL

 

Yea ... get one without the backlighting and you won't have to modify it at all. If you're in the EU, there is a German distributer who can probably order any KB you want.

Bronsky

 

So a 3810 keyboard without backlighting would be a simple install? No cutting or bending required either?


JL

 

Yes, its the same as a 3820TG keyboard but glossy. Straight forward fit. Only the backlit one requires the extra work.

 

Saw a perfect switch today. It is the slide switch on the left side fo the new Iphone. I wonder if it would be possible to order one. It would fit perfectly in the kensington port.

Bronsky

 

Here's another one that looks like it will fit. Alps ElectricPress releasesLow-profile, 0.7mm-High SSAJ Slide Switch is the Industry's Smallest

Wonder where I can order a couple.

Edit: Alps has a distributer about 20 miles from my house. I'll call them.

 

hey all!
I was wondering. What is the impact of this mod on battery?

 

Once we fit a switch ... none . It does drain 500 MA more than without it on. So it will decrease battery live. Hendrickson estimates a half hour over the course of an entire charge.

Bronsky

 

Looks like ALPS has a bunch of very small slide switches. The 6.7mm x 3.5 mm units look like they will fit the K-Lock. This looks like the best on-line distributer for them in the US. ALPS Slide Switches I'm going to order 4 or 5 different models.

Bronsky

 

Hi Bronsky, I removed my switch today, 13mm in length. This is just too big right? It looked good at the time. Do you think an iphone switch would fit perfectly? Let me know how you get on with the switchs you have ordered.

 

I think these alps switches will come very close. The Iphone switch looks close too. I'll order some extras and if they fit, I can just mail one to you if you can't get it there.

BTW, I sent a request to Shark technology to see if they will send me the 3G motherboard. I like the idea of trying to adapt the USB 3.0 half card. If not, I'll get a regular one.

Bronsky

 

Ok I will try the iphone switch, do you have a link to it?

 

Ok went to order 5-6 different switchs for around 6 euros from ALPS.
Including this one:

Which will be small in that space And requires filling. One switch is also 8.5mm which is good for fitting.

However they charge 20 euros for shipping!!...what the hell.

Edit: That 6.7mm is no good, no lug (plastic bit on top, so you would need a pen point to use the switch)

 

Here is the link to a pic of the IPhone slide switch. iPhone 3G & 3GS Silent Switch Black - Switch ONLY I'm not sure about its size and I haven't seen the back to make sure that there are soldering points. It could be modular.

That alps switch comes with and without the lug. From the description I read, I thought the lug was a locater pin that stuck out of the switch, not the black thing that you slide. My issue with the one shown is that it is a side switch and it might have the soldering points on the side instead of the bottom. There is anohter 6.7mm switch that is a more standard configuration. That is quite a hefty shipping charge. I think it is $4.5 here in the US.

Bronsky

 

Since I see no other options and I want to solve this and get a switch in so I can do the CPU swap, IC diamond 7 compound on both cpu and gpu. And fit my 3820TG backlit keyboard I got 6 different switches all within the dims we have. A couple of 5mm and 6.7 switchs. If none are suitable I will give up and use the speaker 3.5 volts as i did before. It is only a fraction less bright than the 5v source.

My keyboard is filed down and the tabs re-sized on the top and sides making a really good fit. I have painted the black where i did the work and it looks great.

I also found bending the keyboard in, in the middle removes a lot of flex. This keyboard for some reason fits better than my last one.

 

I am thinking of a different route for the switch. I think a single on/off switch attached to the missing key zone above the left arrow key would be a good place to locate it. Then I could route the wiring through a small hole in the KB to the USB power source. I found a 3.5 x 6 mm one

http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data S...shift_ck=2067359329cs501701853&client_id=5042

That may fit in the missing spot on the keyboard, then I could drill/dremmel holes for the contacts to go thru the black plastic and bend them on the other side. I would have to either trim the long posts or bend them so they do not take up more than the ribbon wire.

What do you think?

 

The 6 x 3 switch is a no-go becuase it only has a momentary action (see the specs). That means it will only turn the KB off or on when you are holding it down. As soon as you release it, it goes back to its original state. There are momentary action switches that have a lock to keep it in open or closed position. The smallest one we have seen of them was one Hendrickson found. It was 6mm square. That might work for you. There is also the Alps slide switches that are linked in the recent posts. They measure 6.7mm x 3.5mm x .7mm. One of them should fit okay. I still think the kensington lock is still the best location for a switch. The wires can run from the KB to the USB and then from the USB down through the hole in the wifi compartment across the compartment and up again next to the kensington lock to complete the circuit.

Bronsky

 

Hey Bronsky, that iPhone "switch" is just a plastic button... it sits on top of the actual switch. I posted a link of an actual iphone switch for you somewhere lol

 

Oh ... I must have forgot. Anyway, I think the alps switch is going to be the best fit. I'll look for that link though.

Bronsky

 

Well my switches have left the USA now and on there way. So now hopefully in a weeks time I will have a switch fitted

 

Are you going to draw power from the USB port? In addition to the 5V power, I like using the USB because they sit on a separate card and the soldering points are stronger than the speaker jack.

The separate card is nice because, if you screw it up, you just have to order another USB card. The Speaker jack is on the motherboard.

Now that I've soldered both the USB and the Speaker Jack, I think the contact points on the USB are thicker leaving a lot more metal to solder onto. The speaker jack is too delicate for me.

Bronsky

 

OK so my switch is fitted and all good

The switch I used was ALPS Slide Switches, 5mm Std SPDT Horiz
P/N SSSS916400.



The metal part we need to remove to fit a switch.

I removed the metal kensington lock bracket, there are two plastic tabs that hold it in place. With a knife cut these off and remove the metal bracket.


Remove the metal bracket


Now remove the plastic upper part on the top housing


Check the switch fits and is level. If not use a knife and cut some of the plastic to make it level.


Solder the switch and usb points as show in first post and check it works.

Both on and off work. Mine is wired that down is off and up is on. You should do this too as the switch needs to be face down. Contacts at the bottom and bent back to fit. Some fitting is require. Make sure its level and the the top lid part will close down correctly.


Closes here just fine, but the switch is white (I decided to paint it black)



Then its super glued in place. Feed the wires through the plastic heat tape and then test and test again before placing the lid. Make sure no wires are near any screw points or heat pipes.

Its a basic on and off switch and from the outside looks part of the design. I'm very happy with the result.

 

Gfj!!! Gratz

 

Looks great, can't wait to do mine. I think the motherboard and speaker are finally ordered.

 

The next logical step is a video of it in action!

 

I'll see what I can do.

 

Ok here's a tip on the keyboard to have pretty much zero keyboard flex. Mine has none

Here's what I did: Filed down the bottom tabs about 2mm and all the top and side indents where it clips in by about 1mm. Also I bent the middle on the keyboard in about 1cm so that when it clips in place the middle is pushing down all the time and not up.

No flex and I forgot how much better the backlit keyboard really is. Much firmer keystrokes and better feedback. The experience is great A quality keyboard.

 

Yea, the middle bend worked for me but through use, loosened up a bit over time. I guess you could just rebend it, but that's why I put a strip of double sided in there. No flex at all - either. You're right about the KB, it feels much better than the original. My favorite thing, however, is the shinny flecks of color in the key's plastic. When the sun hits the KB, it reflects a bunch of colors and looks cool.

Bronsky

 

YouTube - Acer Aspire TimelineX 3820TG keyboard backlit mod

Video of my backlit keyboard with switch as reqested....

 

Nice. I like the switch in white.

Bronsky

 

It was black, but the paint was coming off. So i clean it all off with alcohol

 

I might be ordering the motherboard from MK in Germany if Shark doesn't get back to me soon. That means I will have to order the swiches soon too. I want to have everything ready for when I take the motherboard out, because I'm doing this once and I'm not taking this thing apart again. If I order the mother board soon, I'm ordering an OEM I5-540M.

Were the smaller switches too small to solder? Do you have a link to the alps switch that you installed?

Thanks

Bronsky

 

Of the seven switches I ordered 4 were too big, 1 way to small. And 2 a good size. Which I used one:

The switch I used was ALPS Slide Switches, 5mm Std SPDT Horiz
P/N SSSS916400.

SSSS916400 ALPS Slide Switches

I found the smaller switchs to small and doubt they would last long. The super small one was just too tiny to solder and it would have broken in a few goes i think. Also the issue of filling in the space around it. My switch once the lock metal and upper plastic was removed fitted very snug. A bit of glue and it was perfect. Tight fitting and I know it will last.


Edit: OEM I5-540M, I hope you can overclock it. If you does overclock nicely maybe i will open up my unit once more forever...

 

Here are the switches I ordered from the Alps distributer.



Maybe we can find a black one that works in this bunch.

@hendrickson - this may be a stupid question, but are the terminals of the switches marked in some way for +/- or on/off?

Bronsky

 

Nope, but there are only 3 for my switch. So its either the top 2 or bottom 2 depending on up or down for on / off.

 

Use an low voltage (1-5V) and test it. You should not to be able to destroy the switch.

 

Sorry to butt in here, but Im looking to replace the bilingual keyboard on my new 3820TG (in Canada, 99.9% of retail laptops sold come with bilingual keyboards - smaller keys and lots of symbols and letters crammed on them). So my main goal is to get a proper US keyboard, but upon finding this thread, I see that it might not be too hard to get it backlit as well, which is a nice perk.

I guess my main concern is getting the parts required - keyboard itself seems easy, not so sure about which switch to buy. Im also worried that I might wreck something. Would you say this is an easy enough task for a person without experience with kind of thing, or should I stick with a regular unlit US keyboard? The cost is about the same, which makes it sooo tempting...

 

The soldering is the trick. If you are decent at soldering, it is not that hard. There is no question that you void your warranty IMO. That is the biggest drawback. I would like to see someone attempt this with wire glue to see if you can make the power connection without having to solder onto the USB. That might help preserve the warranty.

The conversion to a US keyboard is simple if it isn't backlit.

I love the backlighting. I use my computer anywhere and in any lighting conditions.

Bronsky

 

Sounds easy, but of course on ebay, the sellers know how to screw things up.

Can you be more specific about the "right" keyboard, and update first post?

Looking at ebay sellers, and see many listings for the "compatible" keyboard, with many not mentioning backlit, while many others do mention backlit, yet all have the same Acer part number, and none show the power ribbon connector. I am guessing that if you purchase one that is listed as backlit, you will get a compatible keyboard that is not backlit but still works with the stated laptop. One seller has close to 5000 available, lists them as backlit, yet uses same part number as others.

Part number used on listings that state both backlit as well as those with no mention of backlit in listing:

Acer P/N : NSK-AMA1D 9J.N1P82.A1D PK1307R1A01

 

I did a simple search of ebay for "3810T backlit keyboard". This seller actually shows the keyboard with the power ribbon. New Acer Aspire 3810t 4810t Keyboard with backlit - eBay (item 180449855482 end time Sep-24-10 00:26:19 PDT) The sellers seem to change from time to time. But, availability seems not to be a problem. I assume that they are still being made. I'm tempted to buy a back up, in case they become rare.

Bronsky

 

Wow, around $50 and comes from China. I guess that explains why all the other backlit $15 shipped from USA have a different part number. They might say backlit, but are probably not. $15 would work. For $50 I'll stick with no lights.

So is this the Acer number we should look for?

NSK-AP01D.DFE P/N:9J.N2C82.01D.Compal P/N K1307O1A01

I do see one listed for $30 shipped from Hong Kong. My luck it would have both US and Chinese, like the ones that come from PCHome in Taiwan.

 

All of the keyboards I know of came from China or Hong Kong (still technically China I guess ). I don't know of any US source for backlit KBs but I have been wrong before.

Bronsky

 

Switches are here. I ordered 7. 3 are way too big. I have 2 white switches (your model) that look perfect and 2 black switches that might work. As soon as the motherboard gets here I can get started.

Bronsky

 

Hi guys!

I have only been able to find the backlit keyboard with US or arabic layout. I would prefer to find a nordic one, but I doubt it exist (Im from Sweden). But I really like to have a backlit keyboard, so I thougt about ordering a US layout and see if I can manage with that. But when I search on ebay, most of the backlit keyboard appears to only have one connector (the wide one) and missing the smaller one that goes for the backlit? Are there two versions of the backlit keyboard? Can I trust that the images are wrong and there will be two connectors?

Example of one connector: Find Brand New Backlit keyboard for Acer Aspire 3810 3810T on eBay International Market, with worldwide deals on items in all your top categories

Example of one with two connector: Find New Acer Aspire 3810t 4810t Keyboard with backlit on eBay International Market, with worldwide deals on items in all your top categories

/ZooZ

 

I think the first one is mislabeled. Plus, IMO, it does not cost enough to be a backlit keyboard. They run about $30. The second ribbon is the power ribbon for the backlighting.

Bronsky

 

I emailed an ebay seller and was told that Acer P/N : NSK-AMA1D 9J.N1P82.A1D PK1307R1A01 is not mislabeled and indeed it is backlit, but it does not require the additional power connector: NEW ACER ASPIRE KEYBOARD 3810 3810T 4810 4810T BACKLIT - eBay (item 180538613133 end time Sep-25-10 03:17:11 PDT)

Here is what I was told:

"Dear friend,

Thanks for your inquiry .
Yes , it's backlight ,ours no need the extral cable .
While sorry to tell you that this item is not available now ,just have a little bugs ,our tech is fixing it now .
Just need days .
If you can wait a little longer ,pls purchase it days later ,or you can purchase it from others .
Sorry about that .
Have a good day!"

I'm not terribly enthusiastic about installing an on/off switch though, so I hope its legitimate.... but, I'm not very confident. IF it does have just a single connector and is backlit, then it seems reasonable to assume that there is a way to turn it off built into the keyboard. I've never owned a laptop with one though, so I have nothing to support my guess.

Also, the price jumped up considerably for some reason.

 

They must have figured out a way to draw power from the main ribbon. Makes sense. No guarantee of an on-off switch.

If you can simply put this in a 3820TG and plug it in, it is worth the $100 to keep your warranty intact. The 2 ribbon one costs $50 by the time it's delivered anyway.

It sounds like they don't have it working yet. "Little Bugs?" I would keep an eye on it.

Bronsky