and do you have 3830 or another ?
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bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
i turn off the computer last night & power on this morning my wear level up from 21 to 24%...
i expect them to put a Sanyo,no more Panasonic Full crap ! -
Well then send it to Acer... and get rid of this problem once and for all. Tell them that you want Sanyo
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bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
ok i will tell them
other than that i'm happy with my laptop (acer 3830T)
edit:i call them an clarify that i want a sanyo,she note it in the case,but she told me that she can't guarantee that they will put sanyo on it... -
Of course she cannot guarantee it. She's a telephone woman with no special rights. On top of that, Acer doesn't have to fullfill your wishes, but just deliver a working device. As long as newer panasonics work as well as the Sanyos, there's no reason not putting them in.
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bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
newer panasonic battery work better? no more incredible wear like mine?
i wish they put sanyo on it but if it's panasonic it's okay but i buy the device for 8+ hours lifetime not the half
so if the newer they put in (panasonic or sanyo) works great,i will glad -
If they don't work as intended just send it in a second time and a third. After that you may get your money back (at least in Germany, don't know how it works in your country).
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bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
that's why i'm ready to do,if the product(Acer) do not respect their contract -
I'm sending mine in for throttling reasons. Asked them to replace the battery as well, as my Panasonic with 3,5% wear runs only 4.5 hours in idle mode.
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Hi everyone!
I own the 3820TG, which has had heat-problems until i discovered a nice little tool called RW-Everything. It grants me access to the fancontroler of the embed controller of the notebook. I'm able to increase the two fans of the 3820TG to 100% (instead of 70% maximum with autocontrol), which grants me a max gpu-temp of ~80°C (instead of 105°C + and shutdown).
A friend of mine is interested in the 3830/4830 TG and read about the throttling-problems, which made him unsure about the purchase.
As I have read in this thread, there are two resolutions (ThrottleStop and reapply the thermal paste) for this problem.
As opening a brand new product and break the guarantee seems not to be the best option, i would stay with ThrottleStop.
Additionally, i would want to use RW-Everything to increase the fanrotation to 100%.
My question here is: Is it possible?
Can anyone confirm or deny that I can use RW-Everything for the 3830/4830 TG the same way as I use it for the 3820TG?
Thanks in advance!
Zomixy -
bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
3,5% wear (it's pretty good) and only 4.5 hours it's weird -
I have 7% wear and 4 hours battery life full, never had more than 4.5 I'd take it in but I don't want to lose it for 3 days when I have Deus Ex to worry about.
How to use this software? I can access the embedded controller but not sure what to do. -
bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
very weird i can reach 5/5.2 hour with 24% wear -
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ace...inex-3820tg-mods-tweaks-only.html#post7260497
The problem is that the hex-values/positions are probably not the same.
You might want to start a performance-needing applikation and see which of the values changes to identify the fan-control. -
After seeing positive results for 4-5 days, my wear has started to increase again... was at 5% for several days, and now it's at 9%
The Panasonic has no "brain" so to speak, it fluctuates too much... -
bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
well,i'm not surprise at all...
hope they send me another one than Panasonic
u already send it one time to acer? -
I own a 5830tg and I would like to know if someone have open it to remove the battery. I've tried to remove all the screws but chassis seems to be stucked.
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It opens from the top, you must first remove the part with the touchpad, then the keyboard.
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For any Canadians out there, the staples flyer for this weekend lists the 3830tg with i3 for 549. I went in to price match mine I bought a few days ago and it was down to 529 in store. Even if I have to run at18/19 multiplier when gaming, its a pretty damn good deal for a small light machine that can run bad company 2 in all high settings.
Now just to figure out this battery wear issue
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so if you bought it for 599 you can go into the store and get money back?
edit: called them up, all i have to do is bring my reciept and they will give me a 50dollars credit! rep for you -
Is there the risk to broke something for a inexpert user? Does this type of action avoid the warranty?
Can I accede also to the fan in this way? -
You can remove the bottom plate, I think that's what he's referring to. Another user in here changed the HDD and upgraded RAM.
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No big risk if you're careful, I found it pretty easy..
There are no warranty sticker so if you don't screw everything up I suppose it's fine.
Yes fan is accessible but as I haven't put it appart yet I can only guess it needs other elements to be removed first. -
The hope is that it's getting more accurate at approximating wear over time. I.e. it was off by a huge amount to start with and will become more accurate with use / calibration. If it never settles down then that's an issue. If, after 3 or so months and plenty of discharges, partial and full, it starts to get more and more accurate, then it's working, it's just taking a while to calibrate.
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no no, I want to acceded to the other part of the laptop. Change ram and hdd are easy also for me.
However removing the battery is my second problem because after I burned some dvd I heard of a screw free in the area between battery and burner when I moved the laptop. Here should be there the sim card and there is a small cover on the back of the laptop but I can't to open it in order to see if I can remove the screw instead of open the entire laptop.
If you don't know how to open this cover, which screws should I remove to free the touchpad and keyboard? Those in the zone of ram and hd or those externals?
Do you have found some service manual to disassemble the laptop? -
bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
so,how long we can tell that is an issue?
3+months or more? because the guarantee is not unlimited to send it back to acer -
Well, the key is if it's slowly getting more accurate. It reports that it's wear level is 5%, and you discharge / charge completely, and it says it's 4 or 6% then it's likely getting more accurate. OTOH, if it's jumping from 10% to 30% to 5% to 10% again every time you use the battery it's not getting more accurate. Wear level should slowly increase over time as the battery wears. If it's doing that after 3 or so months then you're good. If it's still bouncing all over, then yeah, time to get Acer to replace it.
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@tuplinux: just remove every screws from the bottom and you'll be fine.
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but also those of the hd and around the ram?
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bulldozer_fusion Notebook Enthusiast
mine's increase wear every day (24% now) so yeah time to replace it ^^ (just 2 week i got it) -
dunno for the fan, but no you don't need them for battery, external ones are enough
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Acer lost nearly 235 million dollars in the 2nd quarter of 2011. They blame the generally less demand of notebooks for it.
german source: Acer rutscht in die roten Zahlen | heise resale -
with their distribution choices, they may blame themselves for the poor demand
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Well, I guess it's mostly due to the misdesign in the TimelineX-Series. The 3/4/5830 were the major models of this quarter.
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No that's not what I was saying. If it's two weeks old and it SAYS it has 24% wear, and after a recal goes down to something reasonable like a few %, and the numbers keep getting closer to real % wear over time it's ok. So, let's say that in 4 weeks, it says 20% you calibrate and it says 3% then a few weeks later it says 10% recals to 3.5%, then a few more weeks it says 8% recals to 4%, and so on, until it just settles at 3 to 5% and slowly increases over time and usage then it's ok.
If it keeps wildly fluctuating then it's not properly calibrating over time and is hopeless.
Look at it this way, there's ACTUAL LOST capacity. Like Schrodenger's cat we can't really know what it is. There's estimated or calculated lost capacity. That's what you're seeing at 24%.
But 2 weeks is too early to tell. Calibrate it. If it's still at 24% then get it replaced. If it drops to a few % then it's probably fine. -
So I bought the 4830 yesterday because my MBP (late 2009) died on me. Not wanting to buy another apple product I opted to try out Acer one more time. I used to own an Acer aspire gemstome blue series laptop but the CPU throttle on that was unbearable, I could barely play L4D1.
Now I bit the bullet and bought the 4830TG, in hopes that I would get at least SOME gaming capabilities of it. That and it was a laptop within my price range of $700-900 (I bought it for 749 + tax).
After reading all 239 pages of this thread, I can't decide whether or not this purchase was a good choice. On one hand I need a laptop with a decent battery life for university, the other hand I want something with the ability to play my PC games (BFBC2, BF3 when released).
Should I return the Acer and look around for another laptop? Or hedge my bets that somehow Acer will pull through with some sort of fix for the throttling. I need something with at least 3 hours in battery life and at most costs less than $1000.
Any suggestions? -
If you got the money the MSI X460DX is available on newegg for $849 with i5 and gt 540. About the same size and weight as the 4830 and word is that it doesn't throttle (there is a thread going in the MSI forums)
Also the Asus u46sv is coming out soon, and if it doesn't throttle will probably be the best bed with better build quality, warrenty and battery life.
Only reason I got the 3830 is because it was $529 for the i3 version, and I don't find it worth another 300 for the MSI. Also might be able to drop this price to $480 with a coupon
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A new version of ThrottleStop is available in my signature. It has some more features for the Sandy Bridge processors including logging of power consumption and CPU VID monitoring.
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The 14" Sony CA with a 6630 and a core i3 or i5 and a 1600x900 screen can be had for just under $1k and it gets a solid 4 hours or more on battery. They seem a little flimsy to me though.
The 15" Asus K53TA has an AMD A6 APU and an AMD 6650GPU and gets 4 hours on battery as well, is VERY well put together, and goes for an amazing $450 at best buy.
The Asus U46SV is due in the US any day now, and will be about $800 and should be a good performer if it doesn't throttle.
Seems a LOT of sandybridge / GT540 machines are throttling badly.
Oh I wanted to add the HP dv6t and dv6z series can be had with 1080p screens and good GPUs for < $1k with coupons as well. -
i need help. im using timelineX 4830TG.Here's my problem :
i cannot boot from my caddy (WD 640GB 5400 HDD) becoz it is not listed in BIOS and also in boot manager. HOWEVER, it is detected in device manager, disk management and windows explorer.
When i replace the caddy with my original optical drive, BIOS/boot manager detects the optical drive and can boot from it just fine. Im stucked. dunno wats da problem. is it da caddy or my laptop's BIOS?
photos : http://flic.kr/s/aHsjvXqztb -
sounds like its a problem with the caddy.
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dats wat i tot too n have returned it to seller and he replaced it w a slightly different one and yet im still experiencing da problem.
Add. info :
when optical drive is plugged in instead of the caddy, "ATAPI" in da 4830TG's bios will display the optical drive nam/code name/product number,but when replace it w the caddy, there's nothing displayed under "ATAPI" . a blank. -
Well I have removed the 'free screw' and this is the result ,a piece of plastic
I think it isn't an important part.
In 5830tg I have to remove also the screws under the cover of hd and ram -
So, while everyone is busy downclocking their x820TGs to get stable performance, this guy is overclocking a $450 Asus K53TA to get fantastic performance.
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Guys, after all the issues, I'm still considering buying a 4830tg.
I'm wondering if the 4830tg has less throttling problems than the 3830tg?
It seems that everywhere I'm reading about problems with the 3830tg and much less with the 4830tg. Maybe the 3830tg has more issues because of its smaller size? -
I have absolutely no idea what this piece is, or even what the "free screw" is.
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I posted benchs a few pages back, and I have 4830tg
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Since the 4830TG is not sold in the US, that probably accounts for a lot of the absence of throttle reports.
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Clear.. hard choice this one. I really want a 14 inch with a GPU at least as powerful as the 540m, for 700 max (which is the 4830's price in the Netherlands). Don't see many options besides the 4830tg:
- Acer 4755g, same hardware, smaller battery. Not sure if this one also has the throttling issues. Can't find any reports on it.
- Some llano 14 incher, but these are not available in the Netherlands, so I would have to wait (am waiting for months now for some decent llano stuff, doesn't seem to come)
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That looks like an excellent option if you're in the market for a 15.6. Asus makes some great notebooks, I just sold my old G51 to purchase the 3830tg. I'm not regretting my purchase one bit though, I love the 13" form factor, and the battery life kicks @ss with optimus switching. I get about the same exact gaming performance as my old setup too (GTX260M).
I've been using a Cooler Master X2 laptop cooler for the past two days and I've been able to keep my temps in check using ThrottleStop at 18X multiplier. CPU/GPU has been consistently 80/70 while playing BFBC2. Before I used the cooler I was only able to use a multiplier of around 14 and was hitting 90/80 consistently. Best of all I can now play games while sitting this thing on my lap while kicking back on the couch (my favorite place to play). I'm going to recommend the X2 for anyone that likes to game with this setup on their lap, it's awesome and fairly inexpensive.
Acer TimelineX 3830/4830/5830 T/G
Discussion in 'Acer' started by lee_what2004, Feb 6, 2011.