New Acer Aspire V Nitro series

That's the strangest thing I've ever heard. I've been very careful with the heatsink, but even then I didn't think it was flexible enough anyway to be able to be 'warped' by a couple of screws. I'd guess the motherboard would warp before the heatsink does...

Anyway: I've repasted with Gelid GC-Extreme, and replaced the thermal pads with Gelid 1mm pads as well. I had 0.5 and 1mm and don't know what Acer uses (honestly it looked like 0.7mm but I know that's not possible), but the 1mm ones compress well enough and I didn't want to take the risk

I've just ran Furmark, Prim95 (4 cores @ 2.6GHz) again for a good half hour. GPU temp max. was 84 degrees, CPU package was 87 max (I've seen 88 as max in earlier tests). But as I've stated earlier, that's with 4 CPU cores + IGP + GPU enabled, which is very unrealistic. Usually either the IGP or GPU is enabled, not both. Anyway, before repasting I got temps over 90, and as soon as I'd hit 91 degrees thermal throttling would kick in on the CPU and it would at around 93 on the GPU.

Now I have no throttling at all. Are you sure your laptops keep running at full clock speed with those temperatures? Also: A 10 degree difference as you noted between pastes seems highly unrealistic. Especially not with the pre-made 'goo pads' Acer uses. In my figures I get about 3-5 degrees less which is alot more plausible. Thermal paste has a difference, but not THAT much of a difference. I'm not sure what happened with your systems, but it just sounds strange to me in many different ways That's just a too big gap, I would rather contribute this to either Coolboost on or off, or throttling.

Just FYI, as I'm typing this (after running the benchmarks) temps are now back at 29-31 degrees while 'idle'.

 

All 6 of the laptops I have here are made on the same date, with nearly sequential serial numbers. Perhaps a bad batch? some kind of misalignment?

I'm simply recounting my experience with the 3 I repasted vs the three I didn't, with 20 mins of P95/Furmark testing on each. All of them clean Win10 installs with no acer utilities, just drivers direct from intel / NVidia. All 6 on bios 1.03 as well, and running with chargers plugged in. As I said, its very strange.

I did notice that the motherboard itself is exrtremely soft. Perhaps there was a slight moulding issue with the base that warps it (and hence misaligns the cpu/gpu die) causing a gap. I dunno. Like I said, over the years I have repasted probably about 200 laptops, and ALWAYS with better results compared to stock, except with these nitros

EDIT: here is my idle on stock thermals

 

Strange. What kind of model do you have? Your voltages and wattages are way different than with my CPU, I have the i7 6700HQ. I know that the i5-5200U variant i had had a different mainboard. The i5-4210H variant my wife has also has just an ever so slightly mainboard layout. It also matters if you have an optical drive or not. Perhaps the models are good to note with these differences.

And yes, the motherboard flexes quite a bit

 

I have the VN7-592G with a i5 6300HQ (almost the same as the i7, a lil bit slower, no hyperthreading, but is a proper quad core), 960m

 

Hey guys, I bought the VN7-592G for my mom along with an m.2 SSD and an 8GB module of RAM.

I've managed to install the m.2 SSD, and what a massive headache that was, but I can't figure out for the life of me how to access the underside of the motherboard to install the RAM. Disassembly guides I've found have been either inadequate or for older models. Help much appreciated! Thank you.

 

There is quite a bit of disassemble required to get to the ram slots. Also, make sure you have DDR4 ram which is needed on the skylake models like yours

Without photos, and from memory:

Remove in this order:
Top Cover
M2 SSD
Motherboard to Cardreader/USB board flat flex cable
Disconnect battery, microphone/webcam, speakers and LCD connectors
Disconnect M2 WiFi antenna leads, route black one out of the way
Peel back and remove white antenna lead from right fan
Peel back and remove white antenna and microphone/webcam cable from left fan
Undo the screw on each fan, and top right of motherboard, below the charger connector

Using left fan as support, lift up, and toward you that end of the motherboard to clear the heatsink from the hinge
now tilt entire motherboard up and pull the other end out of the bottom cover

Now you can get to the RAM dimms

Reassembly is the reverse

 

Thank you. Actually knowing it could be done was enough to motivate me to open the case up and start trying again.
This is easily the least user-friendly computer I have ever worked with. What a monumental headache getting everything working exactly as I wanted. Issues included:
-Backlight not permanently turning off --> fixed by unplugging BOTH lighting cables
-Squealing/high pitched sound coming from motherboard -- > fixed by setting it to Power Saver mode
-Not booting from a legacy USB drive --> fixed by setting it to legacy mode - unfortunately, now the operating system is stuck in legacy mode but oh well
-Speakers creating crackling sound when adjusting volume --> NOT FIXED
-Battery not charging --> fixed by tightening screw in back
-Touchpad not working --> fixed by tightening screw in back
-Keyboard jiggle --> fixed by tightening screw in back

And to think, with my Lenovo I just removed six screws and I have instant clean access to every upgradable component. Last time I'm EVER buying Acer if I plan on changing anything.
But it's finally set up and it's gorgeous.

 

From poking around the BIOS settings, I'm pretty sure answer is no, but has anyone found a way to set NumLock permanently on at boot/wake up?

 

not possible in the bios, but there is actually a registry edit that can achieve this in windows 7 and later

 

Thanks, never knew a regedit could make that happen...I know my previous lappie handled in a bios setting...googled and applied fix, thanks again

 

Anyone had problems updating from bios 1.13 to 1.15? Tx

Also wanted to ask : sometimes my desctop desappear, no icons , nothing, no start button. Need to log out to become normal again and its happening very often. that is why i was asking about the bios update.
My model is Acer VN7-591G
Thanks again

 

Can you tell me the regedit fix that worked for you? I found http://winaero.com/blog/enable-numlock-logon-screen-windows-10/ but it doesn't work all the time.

 

There are several available, look on google.
Just wanted to point out that for my case, Acer Quick Acces was the culprit of the registry tweak not working as expected. Afer uninstalling it (don't need it so its fine for me), no more numlock problem.

 

Just got my 592g, tried to undervolt and got -160mv with 6300hq, is it because of the lower clock in the 6300hq or did I just get the silicon jackpot? By the way does voltage offset work like if stock is [email protected] - [email protected] a -100mV undervolt will give [email protected] - [email protected]?

 

Hello,

I have bought a new VN7-792 71XH (I7, 16GB, 960m, ssd+hd).

I have a question regarding the fan noise. In idle or office / internet, it is almost quite, which is good in comparison with the HP Envy 17n where the fan is always active.
But with the Acer, one of the fans (above right I would say) is definitely loud when it starts (noise very different from wind noise), what is it? It happens also when just using the computer for internet/office but start for only a few seconds and then again switches off.

I have installed Notebook fan speed with an appropriate configuration for the VN7-792 and was able to find that one the two fans (the tool says the left one) is loud when running at approximately 25 per cent, but quieter when it runs faster (makes more wind noise but less noise) Is this normal or has the fan an issue?

Second question, with the defaut settings the sound is very loud, putting it to 25 per cent is already enough. But when putting it to over 65 per cent, the speakers vibrate or creaks (typically when putting the volume a bit louder via Windows or the appropriate keyboard key, the standard windows sound in this case produces such a creak). Standard Acer factory config.

Thanks a lot for the feedback,

 

Just a small note that might interest people here:

I am please to announce that I have successfully upgraded my screen from a LP156WF4-SPK1 to a LP156WF6-SPB1 (Luckily the screen I found from the Ebay vendor is perfect! No dead pixels!)

I will post a few pictures later but the process was incredibly simple (10 minutes.)

I am extremely satisfied!

 

Here a resume of the operation + pictures.

First, the video of a similar model that shows how to get the hinge off.



CAUTION: It is important to take off the hinge from the inside as you will break the anchors otherwise!



The picture shows you the main anchors holding the hinge around the screen. I broke one stupidly but fixed it with glu.



The small anchor (Located at the bottom of the hinge) in this picture highlited in Red are very fragile. I broke two but they do not seem to be holding the hinge tightly. Absolutely no change for me despite that. You might take more time and be more careful than I was when getting the bottom off.



That's how the screen looks like without the bezel around it. You have 4 screws to get off.



Pop off the screen gently and put it face down with a tissue on the keyboard. You will find the Edp connector on the back.



The tape is really strong and is attached to the connector. I actually freaked out a little because I poped the connector out when I was done with the tape. Luckily nothing happened. Please, be careful with that part and proceed gently when removing the tape.

When everything was done, I simply swapped the screen, put the connector inside with the tape and did everything in reverse. Tada, now I got a new screen with 0 pixel defects and a little better overall than the LP156WF4-SPK1 . Colours were too yellowish to my taste and everything was fixed after a short screen calibration. I am super happy with it now.

Apologies for my english, currently having a hangover and not my native tongue.

Edit: here is the screen I got http://www.ebay.fr/itm/271542990375?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

@ElBobo excellent screen choice. I replaced my stock LG display with this much brighter SPB1 display as well. It also has lower response times which work great while gaming. I see zero ghosting effect now.

 

Thank you!

I feel the screen is better but the brightness was never the strong point of both. How bright is your screen? Maybe there is something I missed after replacing my screen in Windows?

I would not call mine brighter but IPS angles are better as well as the backlight which looks more even across the entire frame.

ps: my SPB1 is matte.

 

Hi! Can someone with Acer VN7-591G stress test it in AIDA64 Extreme (free trial) and post temps here?

Just got my motherboard changed at Acer repair but the CPU runs extremely hot, 98 degrees Celsius when I stress test the cpu and gpu at the same time.

 

Here is a video with my temperatures in Assasin's Creed Unity at very high.
I have turbo boost disabled but not undervolted , and fans set to mediu , +125mhz gpu core overclock and +500mhz video memory clock.

 

Hello everyone,

I recently bought an Aspire V Nitro (last month). It's a great laptop, but I've noticed that once a day, I run into an issue when the computer screen goes black at a random time. It's usually 20-30 minutes after I open the laptop lid (I guess from sleep mode). I start using it for 20-30 minutes or so, and no matter what I'm doing (surfing the internet, going through settings, reading email) the screen will just go black randomly at some point. The only thing I can do is press and hold the power button to power it off and back on. Once I do that, the PC works fine, until I start to use it the next day. I'll wake up the laptop and the same thing happens and I have to repeat the process above. I've never seen this before with a laptop and thought this was odd. Anyone here experience this and know what might be causing this to happen? Thanks for any help!

Also, here are some of the specs of the machine:

Windows 10
Intel Core i5-6200U
Nvidia Geforce 945M (2GB)
8GB RAM (DDR4)
1TB HDD

 

I also have the same problem with a V17 nitro, but it's very rare ( it happens once a month or less ), i leave my computer running and when I come back nothing, the screen is black, i have tried every keyboard combinations but it doesn't do anything, but i can still turn keyboard lighting on and off with fn+f9. i am forced to shut it down with the power button. it happened to me several times when I had win 8.1 and yesterday with win 10.

 

Just got the VN7-592G. Weird thing that bug me is that the HDMI out only works when the power is plugged in. If unplug the power, it would disconnect my external monitor and switch back to the laptop display. Can someone verify this to make sure it's not just me?

 

Hi,

I've registered just to ask if any of you here have problems with weird right fan noise when "almost" idle. I have the VN7-792G model (17 inches). That is, when there is no fan active, it's ok. When it's under stress - I can hear only the fan spinning the air, no other sounds. But when the fan is "almost idle", the fan is spinning the air nearly silently.... and the fan itself emits a low-pitched hum or buzz or whatever.

I have already returned one piece and picked another one and the problem is the same. Did ANYONE encounter anything similar? I'm not sure if it's a problem with a specific batch or the whole series?

I also have steps to reproduce using "rw everything" from a post on another forum. Set "93" to "14" (manual right fan control) and "94" to "DB" (this is the slow speed that causes the weird sound). "D0" (almost silent) and "E0" (a little bit louder) are all fine! Only the crazy "DB" value, which is unfortunately picked by auto mode from time to time.

Is there maybe any similar problem with VN7-592G (15 inches)?

 

Seems that my problem described in my previous post is exactly the same as someone posted here before. Same model, a little bit different internals (vn7-792 i7, 8GB, 960m, ssd+hdd). So yeah, it affects my model as well. I like everything else, so I will probably just live with it, and tweak fan speeds in "Notebook fan speed" (make it run at 0% or 30%, skipping the "resonating" 25% speed, 30% is still barely noticeable). BTW: it's configuration is wrong, right fan is labeled as left
Another thing that helps, is to lift upper right corner of the notebook. It makes this noise only when touching a surface!

Edit: after more googling, I found that more people are complaining about the fan noise on Amazon UK.
comment 1
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Interestingly, there is not a single similar report on Amazon US:
link

 

Had the same issue. Ordered a new right fan from ebay (just search for Acer Nitro Fan - CAUTION! LEFT AND RIGHT FANS ARE DIFFERENT!), replaced it (took 5 minutes to disassemble my laptop and replace the right fan). So far so good

 

I am having a weird issue on my 17'' VN7-791G model. A loud static noise comes from the speakers, independent of the system volume or the operating system.(also happens in BIOS). I first thought it was a grounding problem. Switched wall plug, tried different location, disconnected the internal battery, unplugged cable and discharged the computer holding power for over 30 seconds. This noise comes back again after some time. It comes and go, starts low but usually ends with a strong static noise with some tremble. Im out of clues, asked for a fix in acer support, 15 months from purchase, out of guarantee, waiting for approval.

I recorded the sound. http://vocaroo.com/i/s0HxgekM9cs3

 

Hi everyone,

I just ordered a 592G (i5-6300HQ, 8 Go, 1TB HDD) and thought of looking for its owner lounge to find more infos on what to do :

- I plan to switch the hard drives of this laptop and my older one (which has a 2.5'' 850 Evo). To do so as smoothly as possible, I'd like to clone the HDD of the Acer on a usb stick, then clone SSD on HDD, then clone back the USB stick on the SSD. How much space do I need on my USB stick to do the first cloning, out of the box ?

- I won't try to repaste unless the throttle is too strong, because I've never done it before and it looks like a little difficult (even though I already have a Liquid Ultra ready :'( )

- Other than undervolting (around -60 mV I guess ?) and underclocking (28x ?), are there other easy ways of reducing throttling on the laptop ? I've tried to find infos in the thread, but not having a proper owner lounge hurts for this kind of research

 

I think you are worried about throttling too much. Sure, some units do throttle a little when P95 and Furmark are run together, but that's an extreme situation that is virtually unrepeatable with real world useage. Ive played fallout 4 / MMOs / Goat Simulator, and a host of other games for HOURS at a time with no issues whatsoever

 

I have the 15 inch i7 skylake, 960m model that used to throttle in fallout 4, Crysis and witcher. CPU would throttle at around 95 and GPU around 90 degrees (c). Was really annoying as the game would just stop for a half a second when the CPU or GPU throttled.

I do live in Australia and it's the middle of Summer so it's warm in the room I play in but I seemed to have solved throttling purely by undervolting by -160mv. Now both CPU and GPU never reach over 87degrees when under full sustained load and no more throttling. I've also overclocked the GPU Clocks and memory slightly for a small FPS gain.

I also tried the fan boost method mentioned earlier, but it made me feel a little uncomfortable as I don't want to burn out the fans and it seemed to make negligible difference to the temps.

Feel free to ask me any questions.

 

How did you Managed to undervolt and overclock?

I want to do that too, but which tools did you use?

 

I may be a little too worried, thanks for the input.

@Daft Paolo I think the soft that does all this is Intel XTU https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/24075/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-

@PaulDownUnder I took the i5 version bc I thought it was enough with a 960M, and I suspect i5 voltage to be lower than i7's anyway - I'll check that later.

EDIT : http://ark.intel.com/fr/compare/88967,88959 I'm clearly not a pro, but it looks like it takes in the same voltage. Differences in clock speeds may mean more heat production for i7 (but at this point this is my vague memory of chopper electronics speaking). And if it's really the same, then I'll just have saved €100

 

Yep Intel XTU. Great app which auto loads a Windows service with your settings on restart.
Overclocked with MSI afterburner.

 

You're were both super kind. Have a nice day.

 

I have the i5-6300HQ in mine and I really do not ever miss the extra 4 "fake" cores of hyperthreading and the couple hunbdred MHz compared to the i7

As a "proper" quad core chip I find its performance in games and some serious engineering software I use to be excellent.

 

Nitros especially the latest ones are a great laptop. I7 isn't really necessary however SSD is.

 

Hey there,

I need your help and advice guys. I've had my Nitro for awhile and everything is great, except for one thing - touchpad. Most of the time, touchpad works fine but sometimes it happens that touchpad acts strange - out of sudden, it starts with selecting and marking things as if I wanted to drag it and copy/past it somewhere. I can't find a way how to reverse it, neither do I know how do I turn it on. I suppose it's some kind of gesture?!? Touchpad gets sort of stuck and keeps selecting and dragging/copying anything on open website or programme..... Whatever it is I'm running at the moment. Turning off touchpad etc doesn't help. I always have to restart laptop to get it back to normal.

Here's screenshot for to give you better idea

 

It looks like your touchpad thinks the left click is activated (that's basically the normal behaviour you'd have with a mouse if you keep that left click). I've never had this problem for the time being. Maybe you activated an accessibility shortcut that enables this behaviour. Without more info about how to trigger this I can't say much other than "Accessibility options" and "open the laptop and look".

I got mine (VN7-592G-512W) last week. Indeed replacing the 1TB HDD I had with it (Didn't get the reference, it was a WD) with a 500GB Samsung 850 Evo did wonders and was mostly straight-forward. And with Acer refund campaign happening right now, it is a real bargain.

I did a windows 10 clean install on my Evo and almost all drivers installed automatically in ~15 min. I don't have the overlay anymore for Fn keys, I don't have Acer services, otherwise the clean install DL'd everything I needed so it was surprisingly smooth.

 

Hi,

I'm a happy owner of a Acer Nitro VN7-792G V17, but I was annoyed by the right fan resonance at 25% speed in a quiet environment. Sadly it was using always this speed when a Virtualbox is running in background

The solution was to use " NoteBook FanControl" to bypass the 25% speed and also to avoid the CPU throttling, because NBFC let you set the max fan speed at 100%, the default bios max fan speed is been limited before reaching the full speed of the fans.

You can find the NBFC profiles for the Nitro serie laptop here. (have to be copied in the config directory)

I have created a custom profile with NBFC Config Editor, the default one for the V17 have only 4 threshold :
0C 0C 0%
56C 40C 10%
63C 53C 15%
68C 60C 32%
71C 64C 50%
75C 68C 80%
77C 73C 90%

It can be surely improved, but I'm satisfied for the moment.

I have also used " Intel XTU" to undervolt the CPU to reduce heat and gain battery life.

My stable XTU values are the following :

CPU and Cache: -125mV
GPU : -100mV

If I lowering more the voltage on my laptop, the system start to be unstable.

Edit : Another useful info is that DS4Windows is working like a charm using a Sony PS4 controller in Bluetooth coupled with a Logitech MX Master also in Bluetooth.

Edit 2 : Now I use Intel XTU instead of Throttlestop and I have increased the voltage.

Hope this help someone to further increase the satisfaction that comes with this wonderful laptop.

 

Thank you so much! Gonna Try that too, seems very easy to set.

And yes, you said it just perfectly: wonderful laptop!

 

VN7-792G V17
Does it support NVMe SSDs or not?
I have read contradictory statements regarding this topic.

 

@TDO On the Acer forum they appear to be supported with the latest bios, you can boot on it and the speed is not capped. See last post on this page.

 

Thank you for the link!

 

Hi, I'm looking to buy either the Acer Aspire V Nitro or Aspire V Nitro Black Edition for gaming. I got a few questions:

1) Which do you suggest for gaming?

2) Looking for at least 8GB ram expandable. With i7, 256 SSD, Nvidia GTX 960M. With IPS GLOSSY display. Which laptop has these specs?

3) Do they have at least 6 hours of battery life?

 

Black edition is the one you're looking for!

 

Does it have an optical drive? I hope it doesnt.

Btw, whats the non-gaming battery life of the Black edition?

 

4 Hours maybe more

The 15" doesn't have the optical drive. 17" does

 

Appreciate the feedback.

Quick question.. Does the Black Edition have glossy screen? If not, does it have an anti-glare film on the screen that can be peeled away like the Lenovos?


Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

No film, but it's not glossy at all.
I'm sure you'll love it. Great view angles too!