Official Acer Aspire 5739G Owner's Lounge

performance wise both nvidia and ati are almost the same, power consumption for ati should be around 50W while quadro is 55W. Since just the CPU and video will already consume 90W under full load I don't think 90W will handle it for long since it has to power rest of the system as well (LCD, MB, RAM,HD,etc). Original cooling won't be enough definately since it will take MB temp past 90C for sure,unless cooling will be modified somehow. At this point with prices for those extra components (adapter included) it will be cheaper to buy never and better system that can be upgraded in the future as well. At this point SATA II interface that 5739G has will be already a bottleneck for the rest of the system plus RAM as well I think. Adapter you can use any as long as voltage, polarity and size of the plug is the same (you can use micrometer to measure original at this point). Don't forget that this laptop designed as balanced for both light gaming and portability, if you want good gaming performance and don't mind extra weight I would suggest 17" models at this point since if anything most of their cooling systems can handle 75-100W of video card power (type B is better choice than A since most of the most powerful MXM cards are type B.

 

Thank You for fast answer
I share your opinion about changing graphic unit, becouse of power consumption it is not worth my money.
But what about points 1 and 2?
I want to change 3GB 200MHz 8500 DDR3 RAM into 8GB 333MHz 1333 and I wonder if it will give me chance to change: a) FSB to 333MHz and better OS work?
Is it a good idea to change T9600 to T9900 and change FSB to 333MHz or if it would be better only to change FSB without replacing CPU?
Have You ever tried to change FSB to 333 MHz with success - stable system for long time stressed CPU and GPU work?
5. Is it a good idea to change HDD 320 GB into Samsung 2.5'' SSD 840 Evo 250GB (Serial ATA3) Basic 7mm - Sprzęt komputerowy - Komputronik notebooki, komputery i elektronika, becouse You have said

or other SSD Unit?
Yours sincerely Martrin

 

Sanek1982 described everything very good. In addition, using more powerful PSU do not mean, that your system will work as you intend - motherboard is not designed to handle overall system power more than 90W. Maybe there is power reserve factory designed in motherboard, but it is about 10-15% of the overall power of the system. IF there is a power reserve.

About 1333MHz - tunay and Crossfire managed to make their 5739G work in 1333MHz mode, but sometimes they have had system crashes due to unstable configuration of SetFSB. This laptop is designed to work with 1066MHz - that`s enough. If it would be a desktop PC - there, of course, are much more options of overclocking to higher frequencies. And, of course, those overclocks would be more stable, than in laptop solution. So, it is worth on buying X9100 SLGE7 E0 for being able to overclock it. Or just by T9900.

And yes, the main problem is not the more "elastic" power source for the laptop or more powerful parts - it is overheating. This notebook is not designed to handle 45W processors, such as mine, for example. In addition, the cooling system is not designed to handle such powerful cards as M4000, for instance. Only with strong modding temps would be "almost-adequate", ~85-90C under full load. Maybe even 87-95C. But working for all time at 90-95C is to risky. Even for gaming laptops, such as Alienware or Razor. Of course, if you would attach liquid cooling system, that would strongly decrease temps under full load. But, we have a laptop, not a PC.

In very demanding applications I have max 85C on GPU and 83-87C on CPU. This is with very good thermal paste and rare thermal pads, which are almost the best in the market currently available. And don`t forget, that my cooler is controlled by the software, not by the BIOS tables. Without that software my laptop would fry long time ago.

Maybe in the future I`ll try to install M5100, but, I think, it is more adequate to buy newer system with all de-attachable parts, including GPU.

 

For better OS boost you should install SSD. For example, in the DVD drive slot, using special caddy. Changing your ram from 200MHz to 333MHz gives you only possibility to overclock it to 1333MHz. But, it is not worth. Without overclock it will work on 1066MHz downlocked by the chipset. Read my last post.

 

Thank You for quick answer. :thumbsup:

So, the best idea right now for me is change:
1. T9600 into X9100 SLGE7 E0 Will this one: http://www.ebay.pl/itm/131179064491?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 do the trick? Then I will be in need to install AcFanControl. Ihave already modded BIOS, so there shouldn't be any problems withe it. So far as I know I'll have to install program that is able to undervoltage i overclock CPU? I don't want to fry both of them
2.To resolve problems with heat I need to buy new thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) for CPU and GPU and new thermal pads for GDDR5 http://allegro.pl/termopad-140w05hj-do-kart-graficznych-15x100mm-i4193840506.html - the best that I've found.
3. RAM change from 3GB to 8GB;
4. change HDD to SSD. Do You know any program or place where I can find information about my Windows 7 key? I am unable to read it from sticker.

Yours sincerely Martin

 

You can find your Windows Key using ProduKey software.

Considering your links - they can not be opened for me, sorry. Try to use "Link" option, while you are typing your post. Using X9100 is only adequate if you really plan to overclock your system. If not, you should better buy T9900 SLGEE E0.

About thermal interfaces, use these thermal pads.

And about AcFanControl - list some page back, there must be my post with my configuration file for AcFanControl. It is adapted for latest (Original) BIOS version and X9100 C0 CPU.

Utility for overclocking/overvolting/underclocking/undervolting the CPU - throttlestop. Utility for CPU underclock/undervolt and integration its clocks and voltages in Windows Power Management scheme - RMClock. I`m using RMClock currently, because I still don`t need to overclock - overall performance of the system is damn` good (13k point in 3dmarkv6).

You said that you have modded BIOS. Which options are included in it?

 

I've eddited url addresses, now they are able to open.
As I remember it is BIOS modified by Tunay, give me more time and I'll find it.

 

If you are planing to overclock your CPU, than you should find only E0 stepping of X9100. This, for example. C0 stepping (that one, that you`ve linked) is very hot version of X9100. Even without overclocking.

Considering your thermal pads- they are very good, even better than mine. But, as better thermal conductivity is, as more solid thermal pads are. Thus, if you want to use 14 W/mk pads, than you should buy 0.5mm thin pads. For 11 W/mk 1.0 thin should be fine.

 

I've bought CPu that You recomended. I have a lot of time before it will be delivered from China. Should I change BIOS to unmoded Acer official 3311 becouse the one that I have is maded by kizwan, not Tunay http://forum.notebookreview.com/acer/480992-acer-laptop-phoenix-bios-bios-mod-request-4.html#post6268861?
Maybe I should install AcFanControl and start to play with it? What are the best values for optimal cooler work?
14 W/mk pads, that I've bought have 0.5mm thin pads, so they would work just fine.
Are You able to put screenshot or other with RMClock with best OC/underVolt settingd for q9100?
There is a lot of fun in modding Your Aspire 5739 Right now I'll try to sell my new/old CPU T9600 and GPU's: Nvidia 240m 512 GDDR3 and ATI 5730m 1 GB DDR3 Is somebody interested?

 

To borol:

- You should try AcFanControl with your current BIOS version, even if it is modded. I don`t think, that modder has changed BIOS Fan Tables or links to the controller.
- About optimal settings for AcFanControl. As I said, list some pages back, there must my configuration .ini file, that is configured by me for 5739G with powerful CPU, like T9900 or X9100. For P9600 it should work too.
- Considering RMClock. There is no need on screenshots for it - you have configure to this utility specially for your laptop. Voltages, clocks, modes and so on are always configured individually for every laptop. You should find manuals in the web, describing the configuration process. This and this, for example.
- About the cards you are selling. Try to post them in ebay, but they are not expensive at all. They are old and they have GDDR3 memory, that is really slow type of memory. That would be ok for MXM II type cards, but we have MXM III Type A cards.
- I agree with about fun in modding 5739G. This is my first laptop and when I got it, I never thought, that I would upgrade it. I even never thought at that time, that laptops can be upgraded. But 4-5 years have past, and you can see my signature. That`s not all - as I`ve said before, I`ve tried to install custom-made copper radiator, PCB with manual fan control by potenciometer, tried to install second fan on the motherboard. Oh, forgot - of course I`ve installed some time ago lot of little copper radiators on the RAM, on the heatsink, on the chipset... all these methods works, but from the laptop it changes to the desktop PC, so I`ve removed everything, except of good thermal past and thermal pads of course.

To Sanek1982: Yeah, installing copper shim is very good method. I`ve thought about it, but I`m afraid of damaging graphics card processor. I just applied more thermal paste, as I usually do. That was fine for me. As I have said earlier, max GPU temperature is only about 85-87C, and only in Furmark. In real world performance max 83C.

I still want to install SSD in DVD drive slot, but I`m still out of money for it. SSD would be the last and most significant boost for the OS.

 

Yeah SSD makes a huge improvement especially in boot times and programs loading. It also should decrease system temperature by couple degrees since it runs cooler than mechanical drive. I was using 120GB at first which is plenty for win 7 and most of the imortant programs. I would probably stick storage one in the dvd rom bay since not sure how it will behave when used as boot drive (which shouldn't be a problem is cd rom set at first boot device) but more importantly that way mechanical will be furthest from chipset and video card so maybe not add more heat to overall temperatures. I use 240GB and it's more than plenty. With second storage you can even use 60GB for windows and couple programs in case budget is tight but they went down in price lately.

 

I would actually recommend to install the SSD in the normal drive slot and put your HDD in the dvd-cage.
The DVD-HDD adaptor is a perfect heatspreader and away from all the heat of the cpu and gpu your hard drive will run MUCH cooler.
(mine went from 37-40°C idle 45°C load to 30 on idle and max 35 on load)
just a little tip

also you CANNOT boot from dvd cage/sata1. only sata0 (the HDD slot) is bootable.

I also had to save a little bit of money and have a 60GB ssd. It fits windows and programs perfectly, desktop (!) and user documents and everything else is on my HDD actually

 

Thank you for that information. Didn`t know, that it is possible to boot only from sata0. How the desktop can be moved to the second drive?

 

you can do this with every user folder like desktop, my music, my pictures, my videos etc.
simple open the [Username] link (first thing in the start menu on the right), and right click the desired user folder. There is a "location" tab in which you can change the location. Thats it.
like shown here:
http://www.sevenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/20424d1248849044-user-folders-change-default-location-properties3.jpg

 

Oh damn, that`s so easy to do. How I did not manage to do it by myself? Thank you very much!

 

no problem mate

I discovered this when reinstalling windows. Basically it works this way:
SATA0 device present = only bootable device is SATA0
SATA1 device present only = bootable also from SATA1

I have not been able to find a workaround (e.g. via USB-stick based bootloaders etc) But there is also no need for me.

 

Yesterday, when I`ve arrived at home after work, my wife told me, that our laptop behaves very strange - the CPU is not loaded, but temps of the GPU and CPU are 60 and 54 (and they were rising for 1C in each 5-10s). Opened Task Manager, everything seems ok - CPU is not loaded, RAM is not used more than 1.5Gb, HDD is not loaded. Opened MSI Afterburner - GPU is loaded on 100%. After some searching I realized, that my Microsoft Security Essential is not so good antivirus at all - in Task Manager I had chrome.exe process, that stress GPU on 100%. And it was running with Google Chrome closed. After deleting it and some additional viruses with Dr.Web CureIt every extra stress load to the system was killed.

And I thought for the first moment, that my GPU is dying.

 

I have just fitted a thin heat spreader to the rear of my M4000 that I salvaged from an old laptop recently. And it moves a lot of heat. Bit of squeeze to get it on there but has reduced temperatures on the gpu a good 10 degrees on Furmark. I also just bagged an x9100 for £50, not the E0 version unfortunately.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Avora, can you post a photo of that spreader on your card?

 

I will later on today. Currently I am just using thermal pads salvaged from laptops atleast 10 years old. And some insulating tap on some of the boards taller capacitors. Works well considering the heat doesn't go anywhere.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Majorly interesting news. Just got a hold of an 8940g screen cable. It is dual lvds and fits the 5739g motherboard, however may need some slight extension or rerouting. I've just tested it with my standard panel and it works fine. The next step is getting a 1080p panel and seeing if it works. However I don't have too much hope as I can see unpopulated pads near to the screen connector on the motherboard. But who knows. This machine may soon be 1080p friendly.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

I don't know how you decided that this is your cable, but it is indeed perfect match! According to the schematics all the connections are there, so you should be able to go FullHD.

 

Meaker mentioned it in a thread that it looked suspiciously the same, I looked at some photos and agreed. Ordered it, and it fits. I'm still worried about the unpopulated pads, the tracks appear to run directly off the connector. The only other problem is the microphone built in has a slightly different connector which I'll swap over in due course however the webcam works fine. I'll keep everyone posted.

EDIT: I've now ordered a cheap 1080p screen to test. Depending on the model of panel that turns up I may keep it or replace it should it work.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Full HD on 5739G? Sound interesting! Great news, Avora!

 

Ok, big news....fantastic news. 1080p 5739G at last! So parts required are the 8940G screen cable and a 1080p screen, I have AUO B156HW02 V0 because it was the cheapest I could get. Below will be photos of the actual part number I have. The screen is glossy, and on first impressions good enough for me. Having all the extra real estate is brilliant, and will help no end with my large engineering programs etc.

So, to fit it the first problem is the cable isn't long enough. I couldn't be bothered to extend it, so I cut some more of my laptop apart and rerouted, this doesn't bother me as its alot less hassle than extended each of them tiny wires one by one. The next problem is the microphone socket it different, so far I haven't swapped them over, but it is unlikely I will as I don't use the built in microphone anyway. Simply a case of cutting stripping and resoldering in the correct order however. As this is an Acer cable, the engineers (in their ultimate laziness and infinite wisdom) used the same pins for everything so the camera works perfectly. In fact looks like the same camera board in both laptops.

As an aside I have now fitted my X9100 (and undervolted after a minor overheat) and my GPU heatspreader as shown below. Beware of this though, sparks will fly if there isn't enough insulation tape as metal conducts rather well. Lucky I didn't kill the M4000.

I'm now a very happy 5739G owner

 

Congrats on the upgrade

 

Great upgrade, Avora!:thumbsup:

 

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong with my 5739G.

The laptop seems to work fine, with the exception of the screen output which is virtually black although you can just about see a faint output on the screen. If i hook up to a TV via the HDMI the laptop appears fully working. Ive so far replaced the LCD screen (twice) and the cable from the board to the screen but neither have solved the issue. I thought about the graphics card but as it works on the HDMI i presumed this was still working.

Ive nearly excepted defeat but wondered if anybody on here might have any other suggestions or have come across this issue........pls help me saved my beloved 5739.........

 

Inverter is dead, it seems. You should install the new one. Inverter is supplying power to the LCD light lamp.

 

My acer doesn't have an inverter. Unlikely any of these did. All led panels. Expect there's a driver conflict. I've experienced amd drivers causing back light issues before. Though never totally off. Possible broken wire or motherboard fault.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Many Thanks for the reply - where about is the inverter as i thought it was on the back of the screen? As ive bought 2 new screens, both identical to to the old screen i thought the inverter was located on the back of the screen and therefore already replaced as the new screen came with a new one?

 

Ive changed the screen twice, although both of these the problem remains identical to the original screen (ie you can see windows desktop faintly in the background, and even more so with a flashlight - ie its working generally but the laptop screen display is faulty somewhere). Hooked up a TV through HDMI, the laptop seems fine. Ive changed the wire from the graphics card to laptop aswell and same issue. Id wondered whether the graphics card was causing this but it doesnt explain the HDMI output working fine, and at £50-70 for a new one i probably could have bought a new laptop by now.

Drivers - possibly seems unlikely from additional info above?? Ill try re installing though as you never know.
Motherboard / broken wiring - wiring replaced from board to LCD. Motherboard seems unlikely?

Any help / assistance is much appreciated. Thanks Mark.

(plus will stop me from unscrewing and stripping down for parts on EBAY - id rather it had blown up on me or something and gone out in a blaze of glory. Such a sad end to a favourite machine of mine).

 

As unlikely as things may seem it's well worth investigating. I've never know an Led backlit display to fail yet, led panels don't have an inverter, two cables pink and white off the bottom of the panel indicate a non led panel. You've replaced two so it isn't that. The graphics isn't the fault. I've definitely seen back lights be unable to be set due to drivers with amd, however the back light always worked. So that is unlikely. The most likely thing is a wire within the screen cable which is moved pulled and twisted every time the laptop is opened and closed. The majority of problems begin where a mechanical movement occurs. Rarely an electronic component unless liquids are involved. Failing that it is something on the motherboard. Which provides power and a pwm signal to control the brightness of the screen.

You could always keep the laptop as a media centre behind a TV? Saves the laptop and all the hassle of fault finding.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Sorry for wrong information from me about inverted. I thought we have displays with inverters.

 

Hi Everyone!
I'm still waiting for my C2E q9100 arrival from Shenzhen. It will take about another two weeks But as we were talking about FirePro M5800 1GB, I've found it for really low price 65$ + 18$ for shipment to Poland Fully Tested FirePro M5800 1GB Video Card 8540W 595823-001 laptop video card graphic card graphics design vga alibaba, View Graphic, Product Details from Shenzhen Ze Jun Trading Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com. Now I think about buying SSD Samsung 2.5'' SSD 840 Series 256GB (Serial ATA3) Pro 7mm - Sprzęt komputerowy - Komputronik notebooki, komputery i elektronika and of course 8 GB of DDR3 RAM. What should be first?
Och and another one, has got someone of You found (or has) PSU >90 W?
Last but not least I have problem with my CPU heat. While I play Mafia II (Intel T 9600, FirePro4000M) temperatures are GPU:max 75 °C on high load, CPU overheating > 95°C and/ or HDD >55 °C. Now I use AcFanControl (on settings that I've found on this forum- thanks propolkin), and undervolted CPU core (all tiers at 1,125 V) and Arctic Silver 5.
Sometimes I have also framerate drop on high detail, AA x2, res@1336x768, (without Physics :| ).
I know that idea of overclocking is bad in this heat situation, but I really want to do it
What should I do to drop temperature and change CPU clock to ~3,5GHz?

 

borol, do you want to swap M4000 with M5800? If yes, than why? M5800 is not so strong card, M4000 is much more powerful. About SSD and RAM. The most significant performance boost will be from upgrading with SSD.

Try to apply more thermal paste on CPU, or less thermal paste.

To being able to cool down the X9100 and keep it overclocked you should do additional cooling modifications: additional copper radiators on the HS, cooling pad, maybe even cut white wire on the cooler - it will spin at 100% speed at all time. But, if you are buying X9100 E0 stepping, maybe there will be no need on such modifications.

 

My mistake,
I looked at M5100 and alibaba returned M5800, thanks for Your eagle eye observation.

 

Hi!
please tell me what's the difference between FIREPRO M4000 -0pr80c version and FIREPRO M4000 -03YF07 version?
Thank You.

 

I don`t see any difference at the moment. Both of them are just part numbers of DELL.

 

thanks for the answer. I just bought for my 5739, so this card: AMD FirePro M4000 GDDR5 1GB MXM 3 0A Mobile Laptop Graphics Video Card 3YF07 | eBay

 

Congratulations! Before installing the unit, don`t forget to remove X-bracket carefuly.

 

Anybody know about the best fan to use for the 5739G?

These two look physically identical:
ADDA AB7805HX-EBB
SUNON MG62090V1-Q030-S99

This one is smaller - 5.5cm rotor:
SUNON MG55100V1-Q040-S99

I have the larger SUNON as a spare part, but is it as good as the ADDA equivalent?

 

People here say, that ADDA is better than any SUNON for that laptop. I can`t you tell anything what I`m thinking about them - I`ve never tried to swap my stock fan with ADDA. Theoretically - as smaller the rotor, as bigger amount of air the fan will be able to push through radiator, if other dimensions of the fan are not changed. So, theoretically, SUNON with 5.5 cm smaller fan should be better than ADDA. But that is only theory. Maybe that smaller SUNON fan has smaller RPM.

 

I have an ADDA fan, but I had heard SUNON were better. Either way, both will move air and the difference will probably be minimal and mainly down to cleaning whilst the change happens. I wouldn't worry which fan you have, just make sure and use a quality thermal paste.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

MSI's GT627 fan is nearly perfect fit. It requires some grinding and probably upside-down placement (you'll have to tape it to the bottom) but it runs WAY better and pretty silent too. I've tried it, so I know

I'm currently running M17X-R4 GPU fan. It barely fits in there (less than 1mm from the CPU radiator as well as the housing on the other side). It's a bit better but WAY noisier. Hence I recommend the MSI's fan.

 

Thx guys

Loving the sound of the MSI GT627 fan. Already did a heatsink mod in April - gluing a ton of copper plate to the flimsy cast aluminium one, so why not add a custom mod fan too Cheers for the recommendation.

 

That mod worked for you? How much is temperature drop and with which configuration of laptop?

 

Got the GM45 Chipset mobo version which has a TDP of 12 compared to the PM45 version which has a TDP of 7.

Chipset heat is the reason for getting out the Dremel and doing the copper heating mod. Other that that the 5739G has been upgraded with a P9700, 8GB HyperX RAM, M4000, Blu- Ray Burner and an Intel AC 7260 WIFI card. Worryingly a beta version of Afterburner got the M4000 stuck at a core overclock of 870. Surprisingly this didn't seem to trouble the laptop, the performance boost in games was exceptional. There's a second 0.5mm plate of C101 copper sheet used on the underside of the M4000. Take note, so as to not to short the card, had to use plenty of electrically unconductive thermal paste (PK-3). Also to keep the copper sheet in place, used some metallic positioning foam from an old ACER 5532 heatsink off ebay.