Upgrading my Ranger

Yeah, I'm going to order some NT-H1 soon. And when I sell my ASUS laptop, I will buy the 4-pipe heatsink. I just hope the contact plate isn't ****ed.

 

Chichen makes high quality heatsinks. Mine isn't warped.

 

I know he makes good stuff, but I've been told and heard that some peoples CPU heatsink had a slightly angled contact plate, so the temps were really bad. If it does happen, people have said he will send another one for free, but the shipping is what's annoying.

 

I’ve heard mixed results about him. Mostly not great but I’ve never had one myself.


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I feel he does try to make good heatsinks, but because he's a single person and not an entire warehouse, that they aren't the best. I don't blame him though because doing it by hand seems a bit hard, unless he has some kind of small machine to help him out when making them.

 

He uses a template to mold everything but contact plates are generally sensitive on any platform.

 

I did a Time Spy benchmark over the weekend for the 1070. When I get home tonight I'll send the screenshot. Stock CPU and GPU clocks.

 

It's just come to me that I probably need to get 3DMark at some point soon. For as long as I have been into performance and numbers of different CPU's/GPU's, I still haven't bought 3DMark lol.

 

You don’t need to buy it. You can get Time Spy and Fire Strike for free. I think from 3Dguru


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Damn, I never realized it was on Guru3D, I'm assuming its not the full version, but that's not really a big issue.

 

No, not the full version but enough to get the job done.

 

CPU seems to let things down.

 

Yeah, it seems like these older CPU's are starting to show their age.

 

That looks to be running @stock and throttle down to base frequency during the CPU stress test

 

CPU drops during Graphics Test 1


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Alright, the NT-H1 came. I applied it and ran some tests, it works great so far. I just need to wait a few days to see if the temps get any hotter over time.

Also, I have noticed that it is always cores 1 and 2 that get the hottest when the CPU is pegged at 100% utilization. Is this because cores 1 and 2 are in the middle of the chip, which allows them to get the hottest?

 

@Reciever, how hard was it to make your own custom CPU heatsink for the Ranger? When I get a 1070, no matter if its the MSI or Dell variant, I would like to add a heatpipe for the VRM's, but I don't know how difficult it would be.

 

It would be best to see if you can find a heatpipe that is already molded to how you want it, or at the very least near form as they are hollowed out and kink quite easily. You can buy your own pipes off of ebay which might be more pliable but I never dipped my hand in that arena.

If you look to the P150HM/EM/SM/SM-A GPU heatsink it does have a dedicated pipe which I had considered but never got as at the time copper was quite expensive compared to recent times and also didnt look to see how much retrofit it would need to function. Also you would need to solder it for most effective efficiency which requires clamping of everything else so it doesnt fall apart while you use low melting point solder. There is also thermal adhesive but last I looked for it, it was proved difficult to source.

bending the pipes without kinking them is the difficult portion, that and working above your fear of blowing the pipes in your oven / toaster oven. It wouldnt happen if you use low melting temp solder which melts before solder that is used in originally fabricating OEM heatsinks, which is generally advised anyways as regular / typical solder melts beyond the point of the pipes bursting iirc

 

Was looking at a bunch of MXM cards out of boredom and found this.


After looking at the die markings, I realized that this isn't a 980M, as the die marking for the 980M is N16E-GX-A1. I figured out that the die marking either makes it a 980MX or the desktop 980 with the fully unlocked GM204 die. Does anyone know if this is a 980MX or the 980?

 

Also, I have had an Oculus Rift (Non S) and wanted to play an easy to run VR game. Everything worked fine, when I installed the Oculus program, but I could not see anything through the headset. I could hear sounds and when I tried getting into the game, everything would work, I just couldn't see anything. Can the HDMI port on the Ranger not support a 1440p 90hz signal? Am kind of stuck right now, I wonder if a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI out would allow the Rift to work, but I don't know.

 

This looks like the MSI GTX 980 MXM module.

The HDMI port on the Ranger does 60 Hz max, no matter if it's input or output. If you want up to 144 Hz, you have to use the mini-displayport output.

 

I noticed that the CPU heatsink covers the CPU VRM's too, would I need to put thermal pads on the VRM's or does the heatsink make contact with them. I can't tell as I can't get a good angle on the VRM's with the heatsink screwed down all the way.

 

The CPU heatsink makes full contact with the VRMs.

The full copper one allows you to overclock higher since the VRMs overheat and trip with the stock heatsink when you push above 4.1 GHz, at least that's what happens for me.

 

The behavior on mine changed more so on what board I had at the time.

One board wouldnt let me push more than 50w without VRM throttle reason, while others let me push 110w+ without issue. I usually had 0.5mm thermal pads on mine iirc

I also had copper on the VRM's by the CPU fan plug

 

I wish I could find things more easily so I don't have to bother all of you, but have people gotten the 1070 from the Vortex G65VR to work in the Ranger/M17X R4? I know that the original guy who sold me the 1070 pulled it from the Vortex, but is the process the same as using a 1070 from say a GT series laptop?

 

The one I had was used in a GT83VR which did not have gsync

@Rengsey R. H. Jr. might have come across a similar scenario but I cant recall specifically.

 

Alright, Thanks.

I found one on ebay that was pulled from a Vortex and know that those tend to not have the G-sync Vbios. It has an SLI attachment area and its version 1.0. I may get it as the seller has tons of reviews and they have a 60 day warranty.

Link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MSI-VR-Vor...451957?hash=item3ff7919175:g:RbUAAOSwc5VgX97K

 

Alright, I am going to put a bid on the Vortex 1070.

After reading the 1BA1 to 1BE1 vBIOS switch thread, I read that some of the Vortex cards HAVE to use older drivers to work properly, not too much of a big deal to me, but I think everything should be fine. If I have any issues with getting the drivers to work, I will buy a programmer and learn how to flash the 1BE1 vBIOS on it to see if it works. I would assume everything wold be fine if it's coming from a Vortex, but you never know.

If I do score it, the seller is including the VRM heatsink and the mount for the Vortex, which I would be willing to give to someone if they need it. PM me if you need a Vortex mount, heatsink, or both

 

Good luck!

 

Does anyone know why some of the Vortex 1070's get code 43's if they are using any Nvidia driver above version 375.70? Just a bit curious, as I always am .

 

No idea sorry. Could have been a vBIOS issue and it may be sorted by now. I remember reading that thread when I was trying to get my card to work

 

Within the period of time that I asked my question, I read this thread: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/p870dm-vortex-1070-upgrade-error-code.807675/ which has made me a bit more hesitant on buying the Vortex 1070. I originally read the 1BA1 to 1BE1 vBIOS switch thread, and thought that if worst comes to worst, I would need to flash a different vBIOS, and would need to use older drivers, but after reading the thread listed earlier, it seems like the Vortex 1070's tend to be hit or miss when it comes to working. I am still left with many questions about the Vortex 1070, which doesn't help the cause, but if I could get any kind of clarification, it would be appreciated.

 

My 1070 was from a Vortex (or so I was told). For some reason it had a 1BE1 vBIOS even though it was a 1BA1 card. This caused me to get the Code 43 error until I flashed a 1BA1 vBIOS. I wasn't sure if the cross-flash would brick the card but it worked well for me.

 

I thought yours was a standard 3.0 card, and not the MSI variant. I dunno though.

Am still debating if I should bite the bullet with the Ebay Vortex 1070, though, there is a guy a few states north of me who is selling a GT62VR with a 1070 for 600 USD, though I may be able to haggle it down. The issue is the drive is about 10~11 hours there and back, but if thats what it takes to get a working 1070 and an entire GT62VR in good condition, I'm willing to do the drive.

 

Dunno. The guy said it had been in a Vortex. Maybe it wasn’t in one originally


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Yeah, I dunno the reason why he would put one in a Vortex, but he probably put the G-sync vBIOS in it to get it to work with a G-sync display or something.

 

I’m starting to get pissed off about this.

I brought the Ranger with me on a trip and noticed temps on the CPU temps were high. I just got home and unscrewed the heatsink to see the same thing for like the millionth time. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, I have been using the NT-H1, and this is like the 3rd time that I will be repasting the CPU.

I have tried the dot method, I have put a line over the die, and I have even used the dreaded thermal paste applicator to apply the thermal paste flat, and it always gives me this result. I make sure to tighten the heatsink evenly and I stop screwing when it gets a bit harder to screw down. Could anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong?

Pics:

 

Thermal compound is designed to sit in the micro imperfections between the die and the heatsink. It isn’t as good as thermal transfer as metal on metal but it’s better than having empty space. In a perfect world, there would be no need for compound as the surfaces would be completely flat against each other. You don’t need to see an even layer of paste across the die. It could be that your heatsink isn’t flat enough for the paste to work effectively or the CPU is just running hotter than it should.
The heatsink may not be mounting properly either.


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Clean up then re-paste with the line method (3/4 long). Don't use much paste. Screw down, then open up again to se how the paste spread out. Take pict of Cpu and heatsink

 

I don’t think the CPU is running hot as the first 1-2 days after the repaste temps are in the sub 90’s at full load, but about 3-4 days to a week after the repaste, the laptop will hit 100+C and shut off within seconds of running cinebench. It may just be me not applying the paste right, or it could be the heatsink, as i’ve noticed the paste gets squished to the edges of the die and falls off after a few days.

 

Alright, here’s my pre and post repaste images.

 

The post paste pic looks terrible. I wonder if my heatsink really is scuffed.

 

Yeah, uneven pressure.


Previous pict

 

You're not doing anything wrong. This is a problem with laptops in general. It's not uncommon to get heatsinks with slight warps in them that are unnoticeable to the naked eye. Uneven contact from heatsink warps causes thermal paste to pump out.

Since this isn't a desktop, you can't just add more mounting pressure by increasing the weight of the heatsink. You can however remedy this by using a thick, viscous paste that strongly resists pumping out, such as IC Diamond or Thermalright TFX.

 

Alright then, @Clamibot, how well has the heatsink you bought from Cicichen been. I know they tend to be hot or miss, but it seems like you have a good one. Does the paste spread evenly with his heatsink?

 

Maybe try different way to screw down to make it more even pressure. But its triel and errors.

 

On mine it spreads evenly. Chichen will make a new heatsink for you if you get a crappy one and ask for a replacement according to others on this forum.

It is definitely a must if you want to do overclocking. The stock heatsink does not suffice.

Do note thermal paste can still pump out even with high quality heatsinks since laptops don't have much heatsink mounting pressure compared to desktops. A good quality heatsink alone doesn't prevent paste form pumping out. You still need a highly viscous paste to stop that.

 

Alright, I remember you saying that you used Phobya Nanogrease for the CPU, but you are reccomending IC Diamond and Thermalright. Does your Phobya Nanogrease pump out quite fast, or does it stay?

I personaly don't mind repasting like every few months, but it gets very annoying when I have to do it every week or so.

 

Phobya Nanogrease pumps out every two weeks on my system. I've been meaning to get some Thermalright TFX, but right now I'm just being as frugal as possible, so I just keep moving the paste back with a Q-Tip.

If you haven't seen my post in one of the thermal paste threads, I put a ring of Kryonaut around my Nanogrease application as an experiment to see if that would stop the pump out. Unfortunately it didn't, but it did delay the pump out by another week.

Nanogrease does give very good temps, but if you haven't already gotten a better thermal paste, get IC Diamond or Thermalright TFX. Phobya Nanogrease is best suited for desktops where the heatsink mounting pressure is higher.

Edit: One of my buddies has personal experience with IC Diamond, and it's been a very good paste from what I can tell. It can scratch your CPU die though.

 

Yeah, I'll probably get some Thermalright TFX, it just sucks that I bought this NT-H1, but no big deal. You can never have too much paste