Upgrading my Ranger

I have a 2tb HDD, so that might be what it is.

 

The clicking is strange. It sounds like a power issue. Temps are great.

 

I've heard that clicking before a shutdown could be HDD related. Are you running off an old mechanical drive?

May as well try the ePSA diagnostic as well but if it's only shutting down while under heavy load then the ePSA may not pick up the issue.

 

I have a 2tb HDD that I use for mass storage, the OS is on the mSATA drive and games are on the 870 QVO, the 2tb drive is usually at like 1-2% utilization.
I do think it is a power issue, but is it cooling the VRM's or the GPU's fault? I wish I could monitor the VRM temp's but I can't find a way to monitor them.

 

Okay, I can't run the ePSA. I definitely think the card is broken or something. Recently, it has been putting the BIOS onto my main display, but with the 860M, the BIOS would output to the laptop display. When trying to run the ePSA, I got 8 beeps and shut off the computer. When turning it back on, I got nothing, but the backlight of the Laptop display and my main display were both on. I then powered off the laptop and then turned it back on and the BIOS was on the laptop display, but then the laptop display just sat there and I could here sounds coming from Windows through my headphones. I powered it off AGAIN and then booted up and it output the BIOS to my main display and booted, but I can't see anything on the Laptop display and there is only backlights.

 

Sounds horrible man. If everything runs good with the 860M then all signs point to the 1070 as being the issue.

 

It sounds to me that you are potentially running the card into the ground.

The first thing I would checked with losing power on the system is are the conditions that would normally enact that behavior. Looking to see if anything is reaching TJMax being the obvious one, GPU or CPU doesnt matter. I know you reported your GPU temps but you will want to check the other items while you are at it.

Next, with the clicking, you need to try and be more specific. If that is a short then you need to teardown the system and rebuild it making sure everything is as intended, assuming everything is as intended since the 860m works then Next I would bring the AC adapter you are using and determine if that is the source of the clicking noise.

Next dont bother with negative offsets. Just set a voltage curve. Something real low like 800mv or less at something stupid like 1200 or lower. You just need to establish your baseline otherwise its hard to troubleshoot

 

I plan on testing the Laptop tomorrow. It works enough that I can play games that aren't very demanding and do everything else. I need to take a break from this as I have been working on this most of the day.

For the clicking, I really think its the HDD. I'll take it out and boot to see if the noise is still there, but the noise has been here ever since I got the drive. My ASUS laptop does the same thing where it makes a beep sound when turning on and off and it has a hard drive.

For the AC Adapter, I am actually thinking it may be an issue. This laptop was purchased used and it has some off-brand 240w power adapter, I wonder if it has degraded over time, but I had no issues with the 880M so I dunno.

I appreciate everyone's help, I will keep you all updated. If worst comes to worst and the card is broken, I can request for a new one as I still have warranty and if the company doesn't do anything, then I can talk to Amazon about it.

 

Throw in the old GPU and run the ePSA. See if the system picks up any other faults.

 

I suggest you to remove the 2tb HDD during the tests, forcing shutdowns you will probably damage this mechanical disks

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I am sorry for all the trouble you are having.
Just maybe this all started with trying to screw down the heatsink to the card.
I had an amd R9 that died so I got 980m that came with the xbracket.
Went for that all copper heatsink too since its better and I broke the stock one anyway.
The thing is as you can see in the pic attached the screw holes are not the same.
What that does is when you put the pads and try to screw it down in shorter holes (with the old screws) you put too much pressure on the card which then bends.
Obviously this can break the card!


I could not use the amd x bracket since its different as you can see.
Also 980 bracket fell out so I used some superglue to make it stick back.
I did find somewhat longer screws so it doesnt bend the card as much.
Since then i Got some even longer ones but Ill put those in some other time.


Screwing the card to the heatsnk before you put it all back in and eyeballing it will help you get the picture. Try screwing one by one, one turn at the time and look at the side of the card along the edge-you can see how it bends.

 

Alright, I took the card out and ensured there was perfect contact between the VRM’s and made sure the card wasn’t bending (it was completely straight, I even got a ruler. When booting the computer up, there was no output to the laptop display and I had to boot into safe mode with my other display. After installing the uninstalling then re-installing the drivers, the computer will not output anything to the internal display AND my external display. I will sometimes get 8 beeps, but sometimes I won’t. For the past hour ish, I’ve been reseating the card and trying other things but no output to anything. I’m just going to assume that the card is broken as I cannot boot with it anymore. I’m getting quite frustrated so I’m just going to instal the 860M again and request for another card.

I also took my hard drive out, which solved the issue of the click sound when booting and shutting down.

 

Ok well its good that you rule out the 240w

I never used one of the Dell cards, but I hear good things just might be a lemon.

I went through 3-4 cards before I got one from the marketplace that worked

 

Yeah, I may just create a WTB thread to see if anyone has any 1070 for sale as the people I bought from were weird. They said it would NOT come with and X bracket, it did. They said they would test it in Firestrike, never happened. At least here you can easily communicate and most people on here aren’t trying to scam anyone. We’ll see how everything goes, I can stay on the 860M for a while as most games I play right now aren’t very GPU demanding.

 

I Wish you good luck and if you find someone selling with a good deal just tell me.

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Will do, don’t buy from the seller that I sent you. One thing the Ranger has taught me is that patience is key.

 

One more thing I'll say, but if I can't find a 1070 within the next month or so, I may get a 1060 as it will still destroy the 970M I was on.

@Clamibot, do you have the MSI or Dell 1060?

 

I have the MSI 1060. These things are pretty robust and overclock well.

 

I have been thinking about selling my 1070 but I bought it in USD when the Australian dollar was weak against the USD, now our dollar is doing better so it makes selling it in USD hard to swallow.

 

How much in USD would you sell it for and about how much would shipping to the US be? This sounds dumb, but I'm willing to pay in the 500 USD range as I was given more money for my birthday than expected, and I just cant find a 1070 that's not from the Chinese sellers.

 

I'll think about it and let you know.
Shipping looks to be between $25-40AUD for standard and $50AUD for express.

 

Alright, not as bad as I thought, no rush on anything as I can get by with what I have now.

 

I don't even use the card. It just sits inside my M18x on the shelf. There is no real reason for me to keep it other than I just like having it.
I haven't overclocked or undervolted it. I have only done a few benchmarks about 12 months ago.

 

Alright, just think everything through even though you don't use it. I don't want you to sell your best GPU because some random guy on an obscure forum has had no luck with 2 1070's .

 

I'm going to have to run some benchmarks again with updated drivers.

I've got my ALX's now, if I want to do any gaming, which I don't. They just sit there too

 

Okay, there is someone in my area selling a GT62VR, which I might be able to score for around the price of a 1070 with a bit of haggling. It is the variant with a G-sync panel and a GTX 1060. If I were to get it, would I have to flash the non G-sync vBIOS onto the 1060 to get it to work with the Ranger?

 

If you were to do so, you would need a programmer as you wont be able to boot with it, and iirc the GT62VR would then be useless as it wont boot without the GPU installed. Or I could be confusing it with the Zotac version.

Personally I would take the path of least resistance

 

Yeah, I only plan on getting it if the seller takes 350-400 (which probably won't happen, but I might try if the 1060 could work.) And I would just sell the rest of the laptop without the GPU as "for parts."

Could I flash the non G-sync vBIOS onto the card when it is in the GT62VR, or no.

 

I never needed to do a VBIOS flash on my MSI GTX 1060. It just worked when I plugged it in.

 

Where did you get the 1060 from?

 

I got it used about 3 and a half years ago from ebay for $350. Unfortunately I can't pull up my purchase history from that far back since ebay only allows you to view the last 3 years.

What I CAN show you is the differences between the MSI and Dell variants. The MSI one looks like this:

This is the one I have.

The Dell variant looks like this:


Notice the placement of the VRAM and the amount of slots for RAM chips that there are.

 

Yeah, the Dell variant seems to be on a Quadro P3000 or P5000 PCB, my current Dell one looks the exact same.

 

Alright, seller said he can do his original price only, which was 600. So scrap that idea.

 

Did you have the 60Hz display as well? Can't remember. If you do then you can use that display to boot and flash the card, if you decided to get it.

 

I still have the 60hz display. It's nice to use for troubleshooting. Seller wont take 400 so its not worth it.

 

Alright, I just shipped the 1070 back and will get my money when it arrives to them, (which will take forever lol.) My top priority is Max's 1070 as it is known to actually work, but I will keep my eye out on any MSI 1070's as I would slightly prefer that over the Dell variant, but I will get by with any at this point.

Again Max, no rush, I can get by with my 860M right now. The most demanding thing I play is GTA V, which mostly relies on the 4930MX to preform well.

 

If I'm not too tired after work then I'll try updating the driver and running some benchmarks. Then I'll have a good think about it for you.

 

Well I started installing the latest driver (modded) and Windows had a fit and the boot files got corrupted. After a few failed attempts at recovering, I had to bite the bullet and reinstall Windows. Huge pain on a Friday night.


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Damn that's terrible. I know I keep saying this, but don't rush anything, only test and make sure everything is good when you have a bit of time to waste. Though, I do appreciate your dedication .

 

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I have been using Arctic MX-4 on the Ranger, and I have noticed it seems like I am re-pasting the CPU every 2-3 weeks. After a fresh re-paste, the temps drop a lot, but over the period of a few days they start to rise again. I have been reading into it for the past day or so and I have read that many people say MX-4 is a bad thermal paste for laptops as the mounting pressure is low and that MX-4 doesn't work well without an IHS. Is this true or am I applying it wrong?

If MX-4 is just a bad paste for laptops, what paste should I purchase. I personally am debating between Kryonaut and IC Diamond if I have to buy a new paste. Let me know if there are better options though.

 

I use Noctura and I’ve always been pretty happy


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NT-H1?

 

Thats generally what I always use.

 

They are correct. MX-4 is a bad paste for laptops. I've used it on my Ranger and the temps are horrible. It pumps out very quickly.

Generally the best paste for laptops is Thermalright TFX. Its high viscosity allows it to strongly resist pumping out, and it's slightly better than Kryonaut in terms of thermal conductivity. I'm using Kryonaut on my GPU and Phobya Nanogrease on my CPU.

The reason for me using two different pastes is that Kryonaut burns up at temperatures over 176°F (80°C), and I do a lot of overclocking. Nanogrease does not have this problem.

 

Alright, one last question so I don't have to ask it later, but would you all recommend me using liquid metal when I get the 4-pipe CPU heatsink and decide do OC 4ghz all cores? Or would thermal paste be good enough.

If I probably need liquid metal, I will probably use Conductonaut, but let me know if there is are any significantly better kind of liquid metal.

 

If you are shooting for 4.0Ghz traditional paste should be ok, 4.3+Ghz liquid is going to be needed.

Mostly because the EC doesnt ramp the fans up fast enough to prevent throttling

 

If I wanted to go for 4.2-4.3ghz all cores, couldn't I just run the fan at full speed all of the time to alleviate the need for liquid metal, or does the CPU just generally get hot at those speeds?

 

The CPU pulls 75 watts at full load @ 4.2 Ghz, at least for me. These are my results with nanogrease as my TIM and with fans forced to max through HwInfo:


Liquid metal is a must if you want to go higher. I tried doing 4.5 Ghz, and the CPU pulled 108 watts at that speed at full load. I was only able to sustain that for a few seconds before a thermal shutdown occured. You'll of course also have to force max fans.

You may get better results since my chip is a qualification sample.

 

Yep. That’s the one


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