Those are inductors. Internally its just a coil of wire. A bit of stain on the outer surface isn't going to do anything.
-
Good work!
Is that the actual color of the display? -
Looks like a night reading mode lol
Enjoy the horsepower you now have my guy, try to tune for 1750c and OC that memory
-
Am using F.lux hence the orangeness
Also, for the heatsink, I only put a thermal pad across the small black VRM's, is that good or do I need to get rid of it? -
will want thermal pads on the those and the gray boxes
-
Alright, the issue was that I physically could not screw the heatsink down when putting the thermal pads on the R22 boxes, hence why I didn't put them on. Is the VRAM good to go without thermal pads because it seems the heatsink covers the VRAM.
Also, would I need to get thinner thermal pads? -
Put thermal pads on everything! If anything touches the heatsink then you could get a short
-
This is for the Zotac card which is slightly different but you'll get the idea. Don't forget the ones along the top edge too
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/mxm-gpu-thermal-pads-placement.825655/ -
**** then, I tried using my current thermal pads but they are too thick. Can I use anything as a placeholder for now, or would it be best to use the 860M?
-
Did you use the pads off the 860M?
-
Yes, I used some. I might be able to get the out of the trash, but I could not screw the heatsink on as the pads were too thick. Is there any way I can squish them down really well?
-
I would just play it safe and install the 860m, the important thing is that you know that the card works. Dont muck it up cause you really want to take advantage of the horsepower lol
Papusan likes this. -
Alright, do you remember how thick your thermal pads were? Mine were quite thick, and I just assumed at the time that the heatsink covered the VRAM and R22 VRM's. I plan on ordering more. Also, I generally had a hard time screwing on the heatsink even without the thermal pads on the R22's and VRAM. Did you have the same issue or do you think my X-bracket could be too short.
-
I think I used 0.5mm and 1.0mm as anything thicker is technically redundant (as you can stack if really need to)
Tenoroon likes this. -
Usually 1mm does the trick
-
Just making sure, would these .5mm thermal pads be good?
https://www.amazon.com/200x200x0-5m...words=.5mm+thermal+pads&qid=1614907949&sr=8-9
Edit: previous thermal pads that I was using were 1.5mm. So I'm just going to get .5mm ones so that I can stack if needed to as I think even 1mm is still too thick.aconix likes this. -
Awesome, really happy that you finally succeeded! Can you give me the link of the card that you bought? I am thinking to buy one for my alien too
Enviado do meu SM-N960F através do Tapatalk -
Yeah I can send a link, just be cautious as I don't think anyone has bought from the seller. I will be vigorously testing the card when I can get thermal pads for it. Also, when I bought the card, the seller said it WOULD NOT come with an X-bracket, but mine came with one. I would buy one just in case though because again, they said it would not come with one.
I don't know if they ship outside of the US, but I'm pretty sure they said they would somewhere.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Rep...1&keywords=gtx+1070+mxm&qid=1614913210&sr=8-1aconix likes this. -
Thank you! I will buy only on 25 of March, so I hope you could perform all the tests until that date
I just have a tricky question, I have a clevo P150EM and a alienware M17X R4 which one has a better performance for this card?
Enviado do meu SM-N960F através do Tapatalk -
Without major retrofit and modification, the m17x R4 will be the easier of the two paths.
Im not sure if the m17x R4 would work in SG mode (optimus) with the pascal but ideally you would want to have the 120hz eDP panel.
The p150EM I think is optimus only without modding -
Also, if the 1070 gets "sold out" just search for Dell GTX 1070 MXM on amazon and the same company will have a different listing for the same or a similar price.
I will have testing and everything else done including an upgrade guide thread by the 25th.aconix likes this. -
Are you supposed to put thermal pads on the heatsink first or does it not matter. I usually put them on the card and then put the heatsink on, but let me know if I shouldn't do this.
-
I prefer to put them on the card first. Then I know everything is covered.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTenoroon likes this. -
I physically cannot screw down this damn heatsink even with the .5mm thermal pad. I can easily screw it down when the card is not in the slot, but it’s like the x bracket bends away when it’s in the slot. I cannot fit the heatsink with the card into the the chassis when it’s already screwed into the card. What do I do?
-
Okay now I can’t even screw the heatsink on without thermal pads. it’s like the screws are too high up for them to be forced down.
-
You still have the old one?
I never used the "Dell" 1070 so compare the brackets and see if the standoff's have different heights -
I am a total idiot. The bracket on the 860M is like twice as tall as the one I ordered and the one on the 1070. I am going to try to put the bracket from the 860m onto the 1070
-
I am probably going to have to use tape to hold down the bracket as it has lost most of its stickiness. I can’t find any electrical tape, but would duct tape be okay to put on the back of the card?
-
I probably wouldnt go that extreme, you really only need something to hold it in place long enough to screw it down.
-
Alright, I put a thermal pad on one of the sides where the bracket was not going through the card. One of the screw slots on the bracket is bent a little bit to the side, should I be okay?
-
No idea, if it mounts and you arent crushing diodes then should be fine if I understand what your asking
-
Alright, I got it to fit well. Now we hope
Attached Files:
aconix likes this. -
-
Alright, drivers installed and I am running unigine heaven. I am going to let it sit for probably an hour to ensure everything goes well. I am assuming that the computer will shut off if the VRM’s overheat, so lets hope that it doesn’t happen.
Attached Files:
aconix likes this. -
-
I doubt it will overheat, your not running a non standard card
Looks like a tune is in order you should be able to hit 1700c with an undervolt
Tenoroon likes this. -
Alright, the laptop shut off a few minutes ago. I am going to try putting the copper blocks onto the heatsink to see if that fixes the issues. I may also need to add more thermal pads, but they seemed to fit when looking at the card.
-
I would ensure you have proper contact with the heatsink, install the heatsink and card with it Uninstalled from the system so that you can really see as it's hard to see for certain with it all installed. I don't know what is best but maybe @Papusan may know
-
I'll try again after another run of Unigine Heaven, I want to see if the copper mini-heatsinks make a difference.
-
****, It displays to my other monitor, but it gives 8 beeps when on the internal display. I’ll check everything out again,l as I just put more thermal pads, but I can only get into the BIOS, not windows.
I got into safe mode, but no output to the laptop display. -
Okay, I appologize for the spam. I got into windows after uninstalling the display drivers, but there is no image or backlight from the laptop display still. Would re-seating the card probably fix this?
-
reseat, check the pins and also check the slot. Boot back with the 860m if need be.
while you have it out make sure you have even contact on the heatsink -
Alright, I made sure to double check the contact after putting more thermal pads on and they all made perfect contact. The only thing I can't see is the black VRM's in the middle, but those have thermal pads at the same height as the R22 VRM's. Am going to re-seat and check the pins and then update everyone.
-
You can tell if they are making contact by removing the heatsink, there would be impressions on the pads
-
Alright, I took it apart, Re-seated the card, and checked the thermal pads. There at impressions in the pads so we know that the are making contact. The backlights lit up and I made sure to not connect my external display. I installed the drivers and everything went well and the external display works great now. I am going to run Unigine Heaven again and ensure that the card is good.
-
Ughhhh, not even 5 minutes into Unigine Heaven and the computer shuts off. I wonder if the card is using too much power and the MXM slot just can’t provide the power. I just hope there is nothing wrong with the GPU
-
It's possible.
Have you been running a temp monitor while benching? Random shutdowns are often a sign of overheating. -
HWINFO64 will give you details of the power draw.
I would reduce the sensor read outs in HWINFO so that you are only looking at the GPU related items, as it gives more info than can be displayed on screen without scrolling
Also look at Event Viewer, it could be the AC Adapter as well but that wouldnt really make much sense unless you are pulling more than 150w somehow... -
Yeah, I usually max out at 54-55C when running Unigine Heaven, and when the laptop shuts off, I hear a click sound. It's hard to explain, but its just some electronic sounding click and it shuts off.
What's also weird is that when it shuts off, the power usage recorded by HWInfo is in the 70-80 watt range. -
You have any HDD? normally when the PC sudently shuts down the HDD does some weird sound. Now if you only have SSD then forget my comment
Enviado do meu SM-N960F através do Tapatalk -
Am typing this on my phone as I am running Unigine. I’ve gotten quite far with a -120mhz underclock on the core and -50mhz on the memory. The computer just shut off and the maximum power draw that I remember seeing on the 1070 was 110 watts.
Note: I started typing this during the benchmark and as soon as finished typing memory, the computer shut off. Is there any way to get HWInfo to write to a file so that I can see what the power draw was at right before the computer shuts off?
Upgrading my Ranger
Discussion in 'Alienware 17 and M17x' started by Tenoroon, Oct 29, 2020.

